An Off-Grid Stay at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef

An off-grid stay in the sand dunes of Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef places Katie Carlin in tune with nature to rewire from everyday life.

The soft glow of first light streams through the shaded mesh covering of my nature en suite. A palm-sized shell from the nearby beach adorns the ledge and a cool ocean breeze rushes through the gap in my tent, collecting strands of my hair as I splash water on my face to start the day. I’m suddenly super aware of how precious this finite resource is after three nights sleeping by the ocean on the sand dunes of Western Australia’s Cape Range National Park where they get 200 millimetres of rain a year – if they’re lucky.

Here, cocooned in a rustic eco-wilderness tent at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef , I wake with the sunrise and fall asleep to the sound of the ocean crashing against the reef. No devices. No bright lights. No mobile or internet coverage. It’s the antithesis of my life in Sydney and it is rewiring me from the inside out.

The luxury of experience

This deep respect for the power of nature to completely undo you is what Sal Salis defines as its ‘experiential style of luxury’. Everything about the camp is designed to connect you to the environment and wildlife around you.

From the ocean-facing placement of its tents – built to capture the coastal breeze and create a channel for airflow – to its approach to light and noise pollution, allowing you to witness uninterrupted star-speckled skies, and of course its location alongside UNESCO World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Reef with its 500-plus species of fish, coral gardens and megafauna.

It also underpins the ethos of the Eco-Certified bush camp; its guiding principles of minimal impact and sustainability are reflected in the measures Sal Salis has taken to protect its environment: construction of the camp is above ground level to protect the flora and fauna, power is generated by solar, water usage is carefully managed to avoid weed growth, no waste material escapes into the surrounding ecosystem. Every detail has been thought of, even down to the reef-safe sunscreen and toiletries.

an accommodation tent at Sal Salis NingalooReef — Stay under canvas at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef.

Turtle time on Ningaloo

Camp manager Leith Graham has spent the past 12 years managing remote lodges across the Top End. He left Seven Spirit Bay on the Cobourg Peninsula to manage Sal Salis earlier this year. Leith laughs when I comment on the camp’s remoteness. “This place isn’t remote; it has roads," he says.

an aerial view of camp Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef — Sal Salis is in Australia’s wild, wild west.

“When we drove into town for the first time, I thought, ‘What have I done?’ because it was 50 degrees," he says, shaking his head at the memory. The summer heat is one of the reasons Sal Salis is only open from mid-March to mid-November. But by the time we pull up at Graveyards Beach, you can tell this place has gotten under Leith’s skin. We’re here to see green sea turtles from a distance; it’s late September and hundreds upon hundreds of them gather to mate just offshore at this time of year.

I follow him up the side of a sand dune and the wind blows more fiercely the higher we climb. At the top, a perfect crescent-shaped stretch of sand greets turquoise waters filled with hundreds of turtles bobbing in the waves below. I soon realise several of them are bobbing in piles of three or four. The females mounted by multiple male turtles at a time. “It’s like you’ve fallen into a David Attenborough series, isn’t it?" asks Leith over the wind.

swimming with a sea turtle at Ningaloo Reef — Snorkel with turtles from Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef. (Image: Justin Bumpstead)

The beating heart of camp life

Days start and end in the communal lodge, the beating heart of camp life. It’s here I find the daily included activities scrawled across the chalkboard; normally a combination of a guided snorkelling tour or a hike to nearby Mandu Mandu Gorge or Yardie Creek Gorge.

the eco-wilderness tents at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef — The exclusive Sal Salis is on the shores of Ningaloo Reef.

There’s also a 24-hour self-serve bar stocked with wine, beer, spirits and non-alcoholic beverages of all kinds from across Western Australia, as well as a barista-style espresso coffee machine and snacks lined up in jars for the taking.

I join the other guests each evening for canapés on the deck, where we gather to watch the sun slip into the ocean and the sky erupt into fiery hues of red and orange before the colour drains into darkness.

an aerial shot of Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef — An aerial shot of Sal Salis, camouflaged in the striking landscape.

It’s also where new chef Paul Seymour (also joining from Seven Spirit Bay) whips up his five-star dining creations that wouldn’t be out of place in Sydney’s finest restaurants. Dinner steals the show: a three-course set menu paired with the state’s best wines. Think crab tortellini, crispy pork belly, seared scallops and lamb rump.

It’s not long before wild tales from the day’s adventures start to spill around the communal tables. I think back to earlier that day when I joined a Live Ningaloo tour of the reef.

a hammock outside an eco-tent at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef — Find enough relaxation time to switch off.

Swimming with majestic megafauna

The pilot circling the reef above radios to say she’s spotted a whale shark nearby. Whale shark season is over, so this feels like an unexpected gift. I stand, gripping onto the rail as we race towards the sighting; one hand not enough to keep me steady. An explosion of water appears ahead of us. A humpback whale breaches and a calf half her size follows her lead; spiralling into the air and flopping back down with gusto.

a huge whale shark under at Ningaloo Reef — Live Ningaloo offers interactions with whale sharks. (Image: Justin Bumpstead)

None of us, including the crew, can contain our excitement as unguarded squeals of delight ripple through the boat. Our skipper, Kurtis McGlennon, reluctantly pulls us away from the humpbacks at play – our turn to swim with the whale shark is fast approaching.

There are 15 operators with a licence to run swimming tours on the reef and Live Ningaloo is one of the lucky few. Now in position, four of us slip into the water after Katie Gates, our in-water guide and a marine biologist, following her lead as she directs us to kick into position.

a group of tourists posing for a photo op during their Live Ningaloo tour — Join Live Ningaloo Tours. (Image: Justin Bumpstead)

I stick my head underwater at Katie’s direction and, moments later, see a grey figure start to take shape in the distance. A seven-metre whale shark is now directly in front of me. I start swimming to keep up, its tail effortlessly propelling it through the crystal-clear waters of the reef. I’m mesmerised by the white spots scattered in intricate patterns across its back; shimmering as they catch streaks of sunlight.

“Stop swimming!" Yells Katie from above. Our time is up. I reluctantly watch it swim out of view.

swimming deep down Ningaloo Reef — Go deep down under at Ningaloo Reef. (Image: Justin Bumpstead)

Carry it forward

I can still feel a fine coating of sand on my skin and see a light dusting of chalk-white dirt on my feet when I am waiting to collect my luggage at Sydney Airport. I’m reluctant to wash it away; it’s a welcome reminder of what we stand to lose if we keep our heads buried in the busyness of life.

As I stand watching the baggage carousel, I’m reminded of Leith Graham’s words, “The more people that know about Ningaloo, the more protected it will be." I know exactly what he means.

the striking landscape aerial views of Cape RangeNational Park — Explore Cape Range National Park.

A Traveller’s Checklist

Getting there

Exmouth’s Learmonth airport is the closest access point to Ningaloo Reef, located a little over an hour’s drive from Sal Salis. There are daily Qantas flights to Exmouth departing from Perth, with airport transfers available to pre-book for a fee through Sal Salis. Recently, Qantas also launched a twice-weekly direct flight from Melbourne to Exmouth during peak season.

Playing there

Live Ningaloo is the only operator that offers single-swim small-group wildlife interactions in Exmouth. The award-winning Eco-Certified tour operator accommodates 10 guests for whale shark tours and seven guests for humpback tours to ensure minimal disturbance to marine life and maximised experiences for guests.

You can also offset your trip’s carbon emissions for a small fee to support the operator’s sustainable practices and reduce your ecological footprint. Advance bookings for all tours are essential. Whale shark season runs from March to July and humpback season from June to mid-October.

Staying there

Eco-Certified Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef offers 15 wilderness tents and one honeymoon tent built amid the sand dunes in Cape Range National Park on the shores of Ningaloo Reef on the Coral Coast of WA. The season runs from mid-March to mid-November and the all-inclusive stay covers all food and drink, activities, snorkel gear and accommodation.

the tent interior with bed at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef — There are just 16 off-grid luxury safari-style tents around the camp.

Eating there

Daily meals are served at The Lodge in Sal Salis with an à la carte menu for breakfast and lunch, followed by sunset canapés and a three-course set menu paired with Western Australian wines for dinner. The self-serve bar is open 24 hours a day and all dietary requirements are catered for. Expect five-star seasonal produce sourced locally.

food on the plate at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef — Expect fresh, seasonal produce.

WA might be enormous, but the right insider knowledge brings its mysteries a whole lot closer.

“Western Australia is a land of record-breakers,” says Carolyn Tipper, a Travel Director working on AAT Kings Western Australia tours. “It has the second-longest fault line, the second-largest meteorite crater, the second-fastest flowing river—it just keeps surprising you. And every area has its charm.”

From tropics to deserts, Australia’s largest state is a land of extremes. You can’t see all of Western Australia in a lifetime, but with the right guide, you can discover its hidden pockets of magic.

Carolyn wishes to reach her guests’ hearts. “I want them to enjoy and be in awe,” she says. “I want them to have the holiday of a lifetime.”

1. Mimbi Caves

You wouldn’t expect a Great Barrier Reef in the outback – but that’s what you’ll find at Mimbi Caves. Once part of a 350-million-year-old reef, these caves hold marine fossils, ancient Indigenous rock art, and Dreamtime stories shared by a Gooniyandi guide.

“That’s when the real connection happens,” says Carolyn, who has taken guests through on the AAT Kings Wonders of the West Coast and Kimberley tour . “When guests connect, not just with the land, but with the people who have called it home for tens of thousands of years.”

Eye-level view of traveller exploring Mimbi Caves. — Walk through ancient limestone passages. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

2. Kalbarri National Park

Nothing prepares you for the Kalbarri Skywalk: a 25-metre platform jutting over Murchison Gorge, 100 metres above the red cliffs and river below. From July to October, join the AAT Kings Untamed Pilbara and West Coast tour to see over 1000 wildflower species paint the park, and listen as an Indigenous guide shares their uses, bush foods and medicine plants.

“I want our guests to have an emotional experience,” says Carolyn. “It’s not just about seeing the land, it’s about stepping into the stories.”

An aerial view of the Kalbarri Skywalk, one of the secret places in Western Australia, with visitors on the edge. — Stand on the Kalbarri Skywalk in Western Australia. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

3. Hamelin Bay Wines

Margaret River isn’t just a top wine region – it’s a winner in every category. Where the Indian and Southern Oceans collide, granite cliffs rise, limestone caves sprawl and Karri forests tower. It almost distracts from the world-class Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

Almost.

Out of over 100 cellar doors, AAT Kings pick Hamelin Bay Wines as a favourite. Hosted tastings of small-batch wines on the Western Wonderland tour end with a group meal. The menu shifting with the seasons.

“Get off the beaten track to one of WA’s most relaxed venues for some amazing red and white signature wines,” explains Carolyn, “accompanied with upmarket pub food.”

Spectacular views.

A person raising a glass of Chardonnay against a glowing Western Australia sunset. — Sip world-class wines at Hamelin Bay in Western Australia. (Image: Getty)

4. Wildflower Guided Walk, Kings Park

Western Australia is home to 12,000 native plant species – 3000 bloom in Kings Park’s Botanic Garden. Stroll past Kangaroo Paw, Banksia and blooms from the Goldfields, Stirling Ranges and Kimberley. “The diversity of Western Australia is immense,” says Carolyn, who leads guests through on the South Western Escape tour .

Couple enjoying the view from the Lotterywest Federation walkway at Kings Park and Botanical Garden. — Wander among thousands of native plant species. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

5. Hoochery Distillery

Did you know that between Kununurra and Emma Gorge lies the state’s oldest continuously operating distillery? Well, the oldest legal one. Set on a family farm, Hoochery Distillery was hand-built using materials found on the property, conjuring up award-winning rum from local sugarcane, wet season rainwater and yeast.

Today, visitors can sample a hearty nip of rum, along with whiskies and gins – all crafted using traditional, labour-intensive methods. It’s the ideal way to soak up the ‘spirit’ of the Kimberley on the AAT Kings’ Untamed Kimberley tour .

People enjoying a rum tasting at one of the secret places in Western Australia. — Sample award-winning rum. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

6. Geraldton

The wildflowers of the Midwest will make your heart blossom. In Geraldton, the Helen Ansell Art Gallery brings the region’s botanicals to life in vivid colour and intricate detail. In nearby Mullewa, wander bushland trails lined with everlastings and native blooms. Further afield, Coalseam Conservation Park bursts into carpets of pink, white, and yellow each spring. Do it all on the Wildflower Wanderer tour with AAT Kings.

woman walking through Wildflowers, Coalseam Conservation Park — Chase vibrant wildflower trails. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

7. El Questro

Wake up after a night under the stars at Emma Gorge Resort, ready to explore the mighty beauty of the El Questro Wilderness Park. With deep gorges, thermal springs, and cascading waterfalls, time slows here.

Join the AAT Kings’ Wonders of the West Coast and Kimberley tour to drift through Chamberlain Gorge, where sheer sandstone walls glow burnt orange in the sun, archer fish flick at the surface, and rock wallabies peer down from ledges above. Then, step into Zebedee Springs, a secret oasis of warm, crystal-clear pools among prehistoric Livistona palms – a moment of pure, wild stillness.

Emma Gorge Resort at El Questro. — Wake to adventure at Emma Gorge Resort. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

8. Lake Argyle

Once vast cattle country, Lake Argyle now sprawls like an inland sea – Western Australia’s largest freshwater lake, created by the damming of the Ord River. Scattered with over 70 islands, its glassy waters teem with life, like freshwater crocodiles, barramundi, bony bream, sleepy cod and over 240 bird species. That’s nearly a third of Australia’s avian population.

Glide across the lake’s surface on a cruise as part of AAT Kings’ Untamed Kimberley tour , where the silence is only broken by the splash of fish and the call of birds. For Carolyn, this place is a perfect example of how WA’s landscapes surprise visitors. “Lake Argyle is a big puddle of water that became a game-changer,” she says. “Seeing it from a boat, coach, and plane is mind-blowing. It puts time, isolation and the sheer scale into perspective.”

Aerial View of Triple J Tours on the Ord River, near Kununurra. — Glide past islands on Western Australia’s largest freshwater lake. (Image: Western Australia)

Discover more of Western Australia’s hidden gems and book your tour at aatkings.com.

A stay at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef redefines the off-grid experience