Dream road trips: Broome to Exmouth through Warlu Way

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How to have an adventurous 10-day, 2500-kilometre road trip following the Warlu Way from Broome to Exmouth, with some luxury along the way.

From sapphire seas and shell-strewn beaches to historic towns, ancient rock art, lush oases and plunging gorges, the Warlu Way is rich in natural beauty and enchanting stories. Over 10-days, from the coastal towns of Broome to Exmouth, you might find yourself swimming with the world’s largest fish, viewing ancient carvings of Tasmanian tigers and exploring the Pilbara’s massive resource industry – think long trains, big ships and salt piles.

Day one: Broome to Eighty Mile Beach

Our odyssey begins in Broome and takes us initially to Eighty Mile Beach, a 360-kilometre drive along the coastal plain, where we spend our first starlit night at the caravan park, sheltered behind shell-strewn dunes.

Hugging the water’s edge, Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park boasts one- and two-bedroom cabins plus 150 grassy, powered sites and 50 unpowered sites. It’s a frisbee throw from the beach, the longest uninterrupted beach in Western Australia.

a car driving on the side of the pristine coast of Eighty Mile Beach
This vision of white sand and turquoise water will stay with you long after you return home. (Image: Cjmaddock)

Must-see

Eighty Mile Beach

Head off early for the 5.1-kilometre return walk on Eighty Mile Beach – you might be the first to put footprints on the perfect white stretch of sand.

an aerial view of the Eighty Mile Beach
The beauty of Eighty Mile Beach will render you speechless. (Image: Cjmaddock)

Flatback turtles

Time your visit between November and March for the chance to view hundreds of flatback turtles gathering on Eighty Mile Beach to nest.

a flatback swimming in the water towards Eighty Mile Beach
Time your visit just right and you’ll see flatback gathering on the sand. (Image: Cakewalk Media)

Fish for dinner

Eighty Mile Beach is a haven for anglers. Find the deeper channels along the beach at low tide and try to hook a fish as the tide comes in.

Accommodation tip: Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park

Day two: Marble Bar and Doolena Gorge

The next morning, we travel south down National Highway 1 for an hour and pass by the Pardoo Roadhouse (closed due to Cyclone Ilsa).

If you drive a further 15 minutes towards the coast from here, you’ll discover the world-famous Rabbit Proof Fence. But we decide to cut inland to Marble Bar, a mining settlement dubbed “the hottest town in Australia". For 161 consecutive days in 1923/1924, the temperature here remained above 37.8 degrees.

birds flying above Doolena Gorge, Marble Bar
Doolena Gorge is a favourite local swimming hole in Marble Bar. (Image: Dan Avila)

When we arrive at lunchtime, it is a degree hotter than that, so we retreat to the Iron Clad Hotel , built in 1892 to cater to thirsty miners.

the iconic Iron Clad Hotel, Marble Bar
Settle in for a meal at the iconic Iron Clad Hotel. (Image: Dan Avila)

After our hearty country beef sausages with mash, peas and corn, we drive 40 kilometres north to spend the night in Doolena Gorge. It’s hot, dry, undisturbed by other visitors and mesmerising – especially when the setting sun ignites its red rock walls and cloaks the gorge in echoing shadows.

a scenic view of birds flying across the serene landscape of Doolena Gorge, Marble Bar
Flocks of birds fly across the Doolena Gorge. (Image: Dan Avila)

Must-see

Carawine Gorge

If you feel like getting off the beaten track, head 174 kilometres east of Marble Bar to Carawine Gorge . Swim in crystal clear water while listening to birdsong – it’s worth the drive.

a rugged river landscape at Carawine Gorge
Get off the beaten track to Carawine Gorge. (Image: Cjmaddock)

Comet Gold Mine

If you like gemstones, rocks and minerals, make a beeline for the historic Comet Gold Mine , 9 kilometres from Marble Bar.

the Comet Gold Mine near Marble Bar
Get a history lesson in gemstones, rocks and minerals at Comet Gold Mine. (Image: Don Fuchs)

Marble Bar Museum

Full of charm, the Marble Bar Museum and Visitor Centre  has fabulous displays and doubles as an op shop that brings town folk and visitors together.

Accommodation tip: Camp at Doolena Gorge

Days three to five: Pilbara Coast

Over the next few days we journey along the Pilbara coast, searching for unspoilt corners away from Port Hedland and Karratha, towns at the centre of the region’s thriving iron ore, gas and oil industries.

At Point Samson, we discover the laid-back antidote to the industry and inland heat. If Broome circa 1990 was recreated on the Pilbara coast then this seaside resort would be it. We settle into the spotless Cove Holiday Village caravan park,  swim in warm tropical waters off the little beach Honeymoon Cove and wonder, while having lunch on the verandah of Samson Beach Tavern , if we’ll ever leave.

a top view of a rock pool at Point Samson
Dip in the refreshing rock pools at Point Samson. (Image: Cjmaddock)

Must-see

Staircase to the Moon at Point Samson

If you can, time your visit to the Staircase to the Moon dates and snap some photos from the new viewing platform at the Point Samson Peninsula.

view of the full moon at Staircase to the Moon
Capture the majestic night scenery at Staircase to the Moon. (Image: Tourism WA)

Port Hedland Salt Industry Tour

Don’t leave town without taking a 90-minute Salt Industry Tour  to learn how salt is grown and harvested.

John’s Creek and Honeymoon Cove

Take a stroll along the sublime beaches at John’s Creek and Honeymoon Cove or have a picnic or barbeque on the grassed areas next to the beach.

the bedroom at Point Samson
Point Samson Resort offers comfortable air-conditioned rooms.

Accommodation tip: Point Samson Resort

Day six: Roebourne, Cossack and Deep Gorge

When we do leave two days later, it is to visit the nearby historic towns of Roebourne and Cossack.

the historic structure of Roebourne’s Old Gaol
Pay homage to the historic Roebourne Old Gaol. (Image: Brian Yap)

Here, at Roebourne’s Old Gaol  and at the Cossack Museum  in the courthouse building, we discover the area’s past as a pearling and gold mining centre and learn about the shameful treatment of local Aboriginal people who were forced to free-dive for pearls little over a century ago.

a diverse display of historic items at Cossack Museum
Find astounding historic items inside the Cossack Museum.

Later, we find our way to Ngajarli (Deep) Gorge in Murujuga National Park, north of Karratha. Etched on hillside boulders are 10,000 rock engravings (petroglyphs) depicting animals including the extinct thylacines (Tasmanian tigers), as well as emus and turtles. It is one of the world’s largest collections of rock carvings, but we have it to ourselves.

a couple walking along Ngajarli Trail, Murujuga National Park
Journey through Ngajarli Trail, Murujuga National Park.

Almost as deserted is Hearson Cove, a broad slather of caramel-coloured sand beneath the rock engravings. Parking up behind the beach, we pull a bottle of West Australian white out of the campervan fridge, barbecue some fresh prawns and decide to stay overnight.

an aerial view of Hearson Cove, Burrup Peninsula near Karratha, Pilbara
Hearson Cove is a pristine sandy cove surrounded by steep rugged hills.

Sitting beside a roaring fire, with the ancient art behind us and a star-spangled sky above, it is an unforgettable night.

an aerial view of the coastal landscape at Cossack
Cossack boasts a rugged but serene coastal landscape. (Image: Cjmaddock)

Must-see

Murujuga National Park

Home to the largest and most diverse collections of rock art in the world, Murujuga National Park really is mind-blowing.

petroglyphs at Murujuga National Park
Ancient rock art or petroglyphs are present at Murujuga National Park.

Karratha Tank Hill Lookout

Witness a wonderful panorama that takes in the city centre and swathes of land, sea and sky at the Karratha Tank Hill Lookout.

Red Earth Arts Precinct

Catch a live show, movie or workshop at Karratha’s Red Earth Arts Precinct , a striking building that echoes the colours, contours and materials of the adjacent mountain.

Accommodation tip: Karratha International Hotel

Day seven to eight: Millstream Chichester National Park

The next day, we move inland and arrive at Deep Reach Pool (Nhanggangunha) in the Millstream Chichester National Park  at the mid-point of our 10-day journey from Broome to Exmouth. After the hot three-hour drive from the Pilbara coast, travelling through spinifex-covered hills and past huge mesas rearing out of the red desert, we are amazed to discover this deep waterway, lined by paperbark trees. Before the campervan engine has stopped humming, we are immersed in the pool’s cool waters.

an aerial view of Millstream Chichester National Park
Admire the ethereal beauty of Millstream Chichester National Park. (Image: Cjmaddock)

For the next half-hour, we have Deep Reach Pool to ourselves. As the olive-green water gathers reflections in the late afternoon, we drift through amplifications of the cobalt Pilbara sky and overhanging greenery. Even the corellas in nearby trees seem transfixed, barely moving from their perches.

an aerial view of a car parked at Millstream Chichester National Park
Venture through the dry and barren landscape. (Image: Cjmaddock)

Nhanggangunha is one of the most significant Indigenous cultural sites in Western Australia, the place where the creation spirit serpent or Warlu is believed to live. It is the legend of this sea serpent, emerging from the ocean to cross the barren land while laying down waterways, that inspired the 2500-kilometre Warlu Way.

a car driving along Millstream Chichester National Park
Drive along the scenic road toward Pyramid Hill. (Image: Cjmaddock)

Whatever direction you do this drive, either from Exmouth to Broome or vice-versa, the desert oases of Millstream Chichester National Park lie at the journey’s heart. 

an overhead shot of an emerald stream in Millstream Chichester National Park
Find emerald streams and spring-fed waterholes in Millstream Chichester National Park. (Image: Cjmaddock)

Must-see

Millstream Chichester National Park

Swim in natural spring-fed water at Python Pool and Deep Reach, where the water can be so clear you can spot catfish swimming around your ankles.

a waterhole in Millstream Chichester National Park
Cool off in the refreshing natural waterholes. (Image: Cjmaddock)

Millstream Homestead

Built in 1920, the homestead housed its last family in 1964. It’s now home to the visitor centre and a museum with rooms dedicated to the local Aboriginal Yinjibarndi people.

the Millstream Station homestead
Drop by the historic Millstream Station homestead. (Image: Cjmaddock)

Mount Herbert

For an expansive view over Chichester Range, head to the Mount Herbert car park and walk up the 600-metre return summit trail.

an aerial view of Millstream Chichester National Park Waterhole
Capture stunning views of Millstream Chichester National Park Waterhole on the summit of Mount Herbert. (Image: Cjmaddock)

Accommodation tip: Miliyanha Campground  (near Millstream Homestead)

Day nine: Karijini National Park

After two days, we journey onto Karijini National Park, 150 kilometres south-east of here. Karijini’s plunging chasms and swimming holes established it as our favourite Australian national park.

a woman admiring the striking red rock formations at Karijini National Park
Striking red rock formations surround the Karijini National Park. (Image: Cjmaddock)

Each day follows the same pattern of gorge walks and swims in natural pools. We start at Hamersley, a broad fissure that drops down from a plateau in a series of small falls and blue-green pools.

a person admiring the sunset while standing on huge red rocks at Karijini National Park
Witness the sunset from the stunning red landscape of Karijini National Park. (Image: Cjmaddock)

Bands of coloured rock, from ruby to light sapphire run through the gorge walls and beneath them there’s a fern-fringed swimming hole. Above it is a hidden grotto, hollowed out of the rock face. Bubbling with sweet-tasting freshwater, it’s an irresistible natural jacuzzi.

a swimming hole in Karijini National Park
Find hidden swimming holes within Karijini National Park.

Must-see

Hamersley Gorge

A favourite of many a visitor to Karijini National Park, Hamersley Gorge features swirls of rocks and a lush, turquoise spa pool.

an aerial view of two people exploring Hamersley Gorge
Head down to the dramatic formations of the Hamersley Gorge. (Image: Cjmaddock)

Joffre Gorge

Don’t miss checking out Joffre Gorge, a stunning natural amphitheatre with a curved seasonal waterfall in Karijini National Park.

a beautiful gorge with a natural pool at Karijini National Park
The waterholes within Karijini National Park are otherworldly. (Image: Cjmaddock)

Fish the Montebello Islands

If fishing is your passion then jump on a multi-day fishing charter from Onslow to the Montebello Islands with Apache Charters .

a tent at Karijini Eco Retreat
Get off-grid at Karijini Eco Retreat. (Image: Cjmaddock)

Accommodation tip: Karijini Eco Retreat

Day 10: Exmouth

It is soon time to move on again to Exmouth, on the state’s north-western tip, a full day’s drive away. Although Exmouth marks the end of our 2500-kilometre drive, the Warlu Way has one more highlight in store: swimming with whale sharks off Ningaloo Reef.

Having made an epic journey inspired by a mythical sea serpent, it seems apt to conclude it by encountering not only the planet’s largest fish but one of its oldest surviving creatures, which first appeared millions of years ago.

Must-see

Swim with whale sharks

Dreaming of swimming with the world’s largest living sharks? Live Ningaloo  offer small group tours on their luxury vessel Wave Rider.

Manta ray swim

If you haven’t got your fix swimming with whale sharks or humpback whales, dive in with the manta rays on a cruise with Ningaloo Coral Bay.

Snorkel in Exmouth

Filled with more than 500 species of fish and stacks of vibrant coral, Exmouth’s bays, beaches and islands offer world-class snorkelling.

Accommodation tip: Exmouth Escape Resort

The details

Equipment required

Outback 4WD or campervan for national parks, around Marble Bar and for overnight stays in remote spots like Doolena Gorge.

Approximate costs

$5889 for Britz Outback  4WD hire for 14 days, from $341 per day + $280 for a one-way fee +

$835 Broome location fee.

$480 for two nights in eco-tent at Karijini Eco Retreat

$920 for two nights at Exmouth Escape Resort .

$300 for five nights in caravan parks like Eighty Mile Beach and the Cove Holiday Village , Point Samson

$1200 for fuel from Broome to Perth (for campervan drop-off)

$1200 for food and drink (including dining out)

Total cost = $9989

The route

Broome > Eighty Mile Beach > Marble Bar > Doolena Gorge > Point Samson > Hearsons Cove > Millstream-Chichester NP > Karijini NP > Exmouth

Highlights

Overnight in Doolena Gorge, Point Samson Beach Resort, Aboriginal petroglyphs at Deep Gorge, Crossing Pool in Millstream Chichester NP, Hamersley Gorge at Karijini NP, swimming with whale sharks off Ningaloo Reef.

Best time to go:

May to September

Leah McLennan
Leah McLennan is a freelance writer based in Darwin. She was a journalist in Sydney for over a decade and counts her time as travel editor for Australian Associated Press as one of the highlights of her career. From exploring remote campsites in the Top End with her family, to seeking out new art galleries in faraway cities, she’ll grab an adventurous or arty travel experience within her reach.
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Your Mandurah guide: art, dining & dolphins await in WA’s coastal gem

Discover the perfect road trip stopover between Perth and wine country.

Western Australia punches above its weight when it comes to coastal hot spots, but no other town or city has seen a tourism boom quite like Mandurah. Named Australia’s Top Tourism Town in 2023 , it’s the relaxed, beachside break you’ve been searching for. And it’s perfectly placed, sitting between Margaret River and Perth, as it’s just a 55-minute drive from Perth’s CBD. Which is why we’ve put together your ultimate Mandurah guide.

Aerial view of Mandurah.
Plan your perfect coastal escape to Australia’s Top Tourism Town of 2023.

The best things to do in Mandurah

Wetlands and rivers, ocean and inlet; Mandurah’s laid-back lifestyle centres around the aquatic. Its waterways cover twice the ground of Sydney Harbour – measuring some 134 square kilometres in total – and form a unique environment for oceanic and estuarine flora and fauna to thrive.

In the city’s estuary lives perhaps the region’s most famed inhabitants – a resident pod of 100 bottlenose dolphins – and the inlet’s silty bottom is home to the prized blue manna crab. Spot the former breaching and playing on an hour-long dolphin cruise through the channels, or try your hand at catching the latter by wading through the estuary’s shallows with a scoop net in hand.

While swimming at the circular Kwillena Gabi Pool, chance encounters with the local wildlife aren’t uncommon. The sheltered estuarine pool takes its name from the traditional custodians of the land, the Bindjareb people, and directly translates to ‘dolphin waters’. Jutting out of the eastern foreshore, it’s enclosed by a ring of net-free floating pontoons, which allow the dolphins to swim freely through the attraction.

If that’s a little too close for comfort, book a kayak tour with Down Under Discoveries . The dolphins have been known to cruise beside the paddle-powered crafts, which are a fun, family-friendly way to explore the city’s inner waterways.

Dolphins swimming in Mandurah.
Watch dolphins glide by as you explore Mandurah.

You don’t have to be on the water to appreciate the coastal city’s aquatic beauty, with 600 kilometres of cycleways and scenic walking trails traversing Mandurah’s estuary, inlet and coast.

Follow the 30-kilometre coastal trail and you’ll come face to face with one of Thomas Dambo’s headline-making ‘Giants of Mandurah  sculptures, Santi Ikto, along the way. There are five sculptures around Mandurah in total, hidden among gum-filled reserves or sitting sentry over the water.

Head to the Mandurah Visitor Centre to pick up a map to pinpoint their exact location and download the traveller’s companion to learn more about the sights along the way. Or join a three-hour e-bike tour from The Bike Kiosk and you’ll stop by two of the giants – Santi Ikto and Yaburgurt Winjan Cirkelstone – as you sightsee central Mandurah.

 The towering Santi Ikto, one of Thomas Dambo’s iconic Giants of Mandurah.
Meet Santi Ikto, one of the legendary Giants of Mandurah.

Where to eat in Mandurah

Mandurah’s culinary scene reflects its laid-back lifestyle, with large, honest meals and locally brewed beer. After visiting Lake Clifton’s 2000-year-old thrombolites, head to the peppermint and gum-shaded beer garden at Thorny Devil Brewery . Tuck into a platter of house-smoked meats and an ale pulled fresh from the tanks. Closer to town and right on the waterfront is Boundary Island Brewery ; here, woodfired pizza, pub-style seafood dishes and easy-drinking brews are centre stage.

On a Murray River Lunch Cruise , the focus is as much on the environment around you as the food you’re filling up on. Help yourself to the colourful salads and freshly cooked meats on the buffet as you meander up the winding, jarrah tree-lined waterway, stopping at the heritage Cooper’s Mill for a quick walking tour along the way.

Keep your eyes trained on the Creery Wetlands as you pass – you’ll spot much of the region’s migratory birdlife, and, as always, might see the playful bottlenose dolphins in the inlet.

The most memorable meals aren’t necessarily always the fanciest, and lunch aboard a self-skippered Mandurah BBQ Boat is a testament to that. All food and beverage prep is left up to you as you cruise through the canals, sausages and steaks sizzling away on the central hot plate.

If seafood is more your kind of fare, board the Wild Seafood Experience , where dolphin cruise meets long table lunch. Eight courses of crab, crayfish and scallops await.

A table filled with plates of crab, crayfish, and scallops.
Dine on the water with eight courses of ocean-fresh fare.

Where to stay in Mandurah

With so many waterways comes abundant waterside stays. Like the self-contained Seashells Mandurah on the shores of Comet Bay. The calm, oceanic outlook from the one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments and villas is as close to Maldivian as Mandurah gets. Families especially enjoy the property, bouncing between the protected cove and the beachfront pool for endless hours of fun.

Seashells Mandurah; on the shores of Comet Bay.
Stay right by the sea.

The Sebel Mandurah , just a hop, skip and jump from the Mandurah Ocean Marina, has a different outlook entirely, overlooking the estuary and lively foreshore on the other side. It’s also within walking distance of the Mandurah Performing Arts Centre , cinema and a swathe of waterfront bars and eateries.

But you can’t get any closer to the water than on a vessel from Mandurah Houseboats . You don’t need a skipper’s ticket to hire one, nor do you need comprehensive boating experience; just a full driver’s license and your undivided attention during the pre-departure tuition will do. Then you’re free to take to the estuaries and tributaries for a few nights of peaceful rest, surrounded by the very element that makes Mandurah so special.

A houseboat cruising in Mandurah along the river
Captain a houseboat to explore Mandurah at your own pace.

Plan your next WA getaway in Mandurah.