The Kimberley’s red landscape is iconic, but its true colours run deeper than the eye can see. From a croc cruise to wild bush luxury and cultural ceremony, the region reveals its many layers.

I’m swimming in the vast, cool waters of Lake Argyle, surrounded by domes of rock glowing that unmistakable shade of Kimberley red. This is Australia’s second largest man-made reservoir – and home to some 30,000 freshwater crocodiles. There’s a sudden splash in the water near me.

And then it surfaces: an ice-cold tinny of XXXX Gold, slung my way by skipper ‘Big Scotty’ from the stern of The Kimberley Durack. “This is Australia’s best swim-up bar," he jokes. But with the sparkling expanse of water fringed by heaving, ancient rock formations, it’s hard to disagree.

A croc-spotting cruise around Lake Argyle

I’m cruising Lake Argyle with Big Scotty and Captain Jack Furzer, learning about the geology and wildlife of this ancient landscape. “It’s among the most geologically complex on Earth," Jack tells us. “The oldest rocks here are 2 billion years old."

We’ve moored for a swim and, despite the city-sized population of resident crocs, Captain Jack has assured us that the water is safe. The freshies, he says, are timid by nature. He would know: Jack has spent years sailing these parts, and even recognises a few crocs by name.

“That’s Cheech," he’d said earlier, pointing to a sunbaking crocodilian as The Kimberley Durack pootled around the wetlands. “He’s got a girlfriend, Chong, but she’s not here right now." When I ask how he can tell them apart, he grins. “It’s all in their personality."

We can only cover a fraction of this Hong Kong-sized lake, but we still see plenty: agile rock wallabies bounding down the cliff face, buzzards circling overhead, mighty sandstone formations so fluid-like, it seems as if they’re spilling into the lake itself.

Checking into Lake Argyle’s only accommodation

There’s only one accommodation option in this remote yet spectacular reach of the Kimberley. Perched on a cliff overlooking the lake, Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle is a hub for caravanners and road trippers. But this is no ordinary holiday park. For a start, it’s got an infinity pool often named the country’s most beautiful.

Sidling up to the pool’s rim, I flutter my legs and gaze out at the sweeping view of the lake, topaz now, although it seems to change colour throughout the day like a giant mood ring. The vista from my lakeview cabin, one of the resort’s premium options, is even better. I’d checked in just in time to settle into my private balcony and watch an orange moon rise above the cliffs like a sunset in reverse.

El Questro: Australia’s most remote luxury stay

Travelling west from Lake Argyle, the Kimberley’s landscape continues to reveal itself, like origami unfolding. The roads are flanked by curious, stumpy boab trees, native to this part of Australia. They’re the only species of baobab found outside Africa: a strange, tuber-like relic of ancient Gondwanaland.

I’m headed for El Questro Homestead, one of the country’s most luxurious wilderness lodges. It’s secluded within El Questro wilderness park, a 165,000-hectare former cattle station that was officially returned to its Traditional Owners in 2022. On arrival, lemongrass-infused cold towels and Champagne set the tone. Here, the remoteness makes the comforts feel all the more extravagant.

The Homestead is perched atop a gorge overlooking the Chamberlain River, where guests can keep watch for salties gliding through the malachite-green water from the comfort of their suite or by the poolside. The interiors sing with station-chic decor: all toffee leathers, cowhide rugs and exposed timber beams that nod to its pastoral past. The heart of El Questro Homestead is the lounge, where guests gather each evening for sundowners and elegant, fine dining beneath the stars. But the highlight lies in the Homestead’s all-inclusive activities calendar.

Each afternoon, guests can embark on an after-hours visit to Zebedee Springs when it’s closed to the public. We cross the colour wheel as we hike in, swapping the Kimberley’s burnt-orange for a Jurassic-green jungle of prehistoric ferns.

The hot springs seep from a fault line deep beneath the Earth’s skin, the water so pure and clear it looks invisible. I sit under a small waterfall, letting the warm water massage my back: it’s a sense of serenity that no spa could replicate.

Another morning sees us tackling the park’s rugged 4WD tracks with ranger Gab Murphy, powering through epic river crossings and gunning it up hills to breathtaking lookout points. Gab points out features in the landscape, like an ancient boab tree so massive it would take more than 20 people to encircle it. But the most compelling excursions are the ones with the Ngarinyin Traditional Owners.

The Kimberley’s new Indigenous tourism experience

Standing atop a gorge overlooking the Chamberlain River, eyes closed, I hear the hypnotic murmur of a didgeridoo and the crackle of fire. Eucalyptus smoke perfumes the evening air like incense, and I feel the warmth of two hands pressing against my shoulders. “This is so your joints can be strong, to help you stand tall and proud," whispers Mary O’Reeri, a Nyul Nyul woman from the Kimberley. She releases her grip, warms her palms over the fire, and transfers the heat to my jaw, cradling my face gently.

“Your voice matters," she whispers. “Use it to speak up for injustice, to be a voice for those who don’t have one". A final time, Mary cups heat from the flames and presses it to my sternum. “This is your ngiadi," she says softly. “It’s an ancient pathfinder, your deep intuition, your own personal GPS. Connect with it. Learn the beauty of who you are." When she lifts her hand, something more ineffable than warmth lingers on my skin. Mary invites me to step into the smoke billowing from the fire and let it cleanse me. I move about the haze, allowing the tendrils of smoke to swirl around me, healing my spirit as the sun dances on the river like a million golden blinks.

This is Injiid Marlabu Calls Us, a new addition to El Questro Homestead’s activities calendar. With a vision to deepen visitors’ connection to place, this heartfelt welcome onto Wanjina Wunggurr Country is run by Mary, her husband, Ngarinyin Traditional Owner Nelson O’Reeri, and their daughter Shonelle. This smoke cleansing ceremony, or Bijagoon, is an ancient ritual, passed down by Nelson’s grandmother Injiid, who learned it from her grandmother before her. Injiid is the namesake and inspiration behind the tour, a “mother of all mothers" who was one of the first generations to make contact with the region’s first explorers.

Learning about culture and history on Country

This tour isn’t only about healing, it’s about learning, too. About the bush foods and medicines, a pantry and pharmacy to the Traditional Owners who know Country. About the extraordinary yet difficult life of Injiid. And about dark truths – the lasting damage left by the trauma of Australia’s colonial past.

“The Kimberley has one of the highest suicide rates in the world," Nelson tells us. “Every single Aboriginal family here has been impacted." He begins to pluck an acoustic guitar as the family gather round to sing a tribute to relatives they’ve lost. When Nelson sets his guitar down, nobody speaks. Silence and sorrow hang thick in the air like humidity in the wet season. “For us to heal, we have to talk about it," Nelson says.

And so we listen, as the O’Reeri family share not just the beauty of Ngarinyin culture, but the unflinching truths of the challenges their community continues to face. “Our children’s ngiadi is broken, they feel like they don’t belong," Mary says. “We’ve got solutions, we’ve got people on the ground. But we need to work together in the spirit of reconciliation."

Before we leave, the O’Reeri family perform another ritual, cleansing us with water from the Chamberlain River. Shonelle calls out to the wind, to let Country know we’re here, to look after us. Through fire, water, earth and wind, we’ve touched every element – but none more so than spirit. I still feel Mary’s handprint on my chest above where my ngiadi resides.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Qantas and Airnorth fly to Kununurra from Perth; Airnorth also flies from Darwin and Broome. From there, it’s a 45-minute drive south to Lake Argyle, and a 90-minute drive west to El Questro wilderness park.

Staying there

Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle has options ranging from campsites and powered RV spots to luxe one- and two-bedroom lakeview cabins (rates from $220 per night). There’s a bistro and bar onsite open for lunch and dinner. Breakfast is self-catered.

El Questro Homestead is a luxurious, full-board ten-suite hideaway that caters for a maximum of 20 guests at any one time. It includes, airport transfers, fine-dining meals, alcohol and activities. Rates are from $2805 per night.

Playing there

Kimberley Durack cruises of Lake Argyle include transfers from Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle. The resort also hosts Cliffside Dinners onsite. Excursions at El Questro Homestead include Injiid Marlabu Calls Us Aboriginal Immersion, a Munbala Cruise of the Chamberlain River with the Traditional Owners, exclusive use of Zebedee Springs each afternoon, Bush Natives and Nature 4WD tour and more.