The phenomenon that locals refer to as “Kimberley magic”

Visit once and be changed forever. That’s the magic of the East Kimberley, where the exhilarating thrill of its singular beauty and unique experiences fills the senses and touches the soul.

East Kimberley has an intangible power exuding from its depths that intoxicates; it’s a magnetism that draws people back time and again to explore the landscape, which has been billions of years in the making. Whether you journey by air, road or boat (or ideally, all three), experiencing this part of Australia’s rugged North West is at once spellbinding and humbling.

Bungle Bungle Range, Purnululu National Park, WA — Purnululu National Park is home to the geological marvel that is the Bungle Bungle Range. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

The journey begins in Kununurra

Landing in the heart of Miriwoong and Gajirrabeng Country, Kununurra presents as the ultimate outback town. The remote outpost, just a stone’s throw from the Northern Territory border, feels like it has a population of 500 instead of the official figure of 5300. While it has all the requisites to make it the ideal hub for the region, and for the explorers who pass through here – accommodation options, supermarkets, eateries, pubs, hardware stores, all the essentials – east Kimberley’s biggest town also has a vibrant personality that makes it a captivating destination in its own right.

It usually takes less than a day for visitors to fall under Kununurra’s spell. With an unpretentious vibe and welcoming locals, every interaction here is effortless, every experience is worthy of note and every gem beyond its limits – the Ord River, Mirima National Park, Purnululu National Park – is absolutely breathtaking. Unwavering worship usually follows quickly after, a phenomenon that locals refer to as “Kimberley magic".

Aboriginal Rock Art, Mirima National Park, Kimberley, WA, Australia — Aboriginal rock art at Mirima National Park, just outside Kununurra. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Exploring the town on my fifth visit, I pass local and Aboriginal art at Artopia Gallery, Artlandish and Waringarri Aboriginal Arts, and jewellers selling the coveted Argyle Pink Diamonds, mined less than 200 kilometres away at the now-shuttered Argyle Diamond Mine. The rare pink beauties on display range in colour from vivid magenta to the softest blush, and increase in value roughly 12 per cent per year, or so I am told.

Shades of pink run through Kununurra, particularly at sunset, when locals gather to watch the blazing orb’s slow retreat from the sky at Kelly’s Knob, a lookout located five minutes’ drive from town. As I join them in their daily vigil under a watercolour sky, I stare out to views over seemingly infinite plains of red dirt studded with spinifex, leafy palms and fat boab trees. Cracking open a cold one, I perch on a boulder as the night sky starts to reveal itself, a mesmerising process that makes my jaw, as well as my shoulders, drop.

Waringarri Aboriginal Arts in Kununurra, Kimberley, WA — Browsing Waringarri Aboriginal Arts in Kununurra. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Exploring Mirima National Park

I rise before the sun at 5am to head to Mirima National Park, just two kilometres outside of town. Also known as Hidden Valley, Mirima is the name given to the area by the local Miriwoong for whom the area is of rich cultural significance. Under a rose-coloured sky slowly edging towards blue, the two-kilometre Gerliwany-Gerring Bana Entry Trail meanders through peaceful gorges to a picture-perfect vantage point.

En route, I spot a hopping rock wallaby, pretty little wildflowers and a family of chirping finches. At the lookout, the impressive view – of the prehistoric protruding rock formations that the park is known for – is cast in golden morning light. Formed some 300 million years ago, the weathered sandstone rocks are often referred to as a mini Bungle Bungle Range. Although they stand in silence just minutes from town, I’m the only person here.

Indigenous guide from Waringarri Aboriginal Arts, Kimberley, WA — Take a Mirima National Park Walk Tour with an Indigenous guide from Waringarri Aboriginal Arts. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Cool off at Lake Argyle

I head back to National Highway 1 and drive for an hour to Lake Argyle, pulling up at the eponymous resort’s famous infinity pool. I plunge in enthusiastically and float blissfully in the silky waters as I get the all-important money shot for Instagram. Once out, I recline on a sun lounge, soaking up the warmth of the sun and the entrancing views over the lake so big it’s classed as an inland sea.

The outback journey to this beautiful expanse, with hardly another soul in sight, really feels like getting away from it all, and only acts to strengthen the region’s pull on me. The rolling scenes of spinifex, flowering shrubs, big skies, far horizons and distant ranges have me staring in awe and gratefully wrapping my arms around big, bulbous boab trees.

Boab Tree at Emma Gorge, Kimberley, Australia — Tapping into the magic of a boab tree at the Emma Gorge Resort. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Taking to the skies on the Bungle Bungle Wanderer Tour

The grand scale of the Kimberley is possibly best appreciated from the sky. Less than 10 minutes’ drive from town, adjacent to Kununurra Airport, I arrive at Aviair for a Bungle Bungle Wanderer Tour. I board a 13-seater Cessna, strap in and don a headset, ready for take-off.

We ascend over the Diversion Dam, the scene below tracking the Ord River as it snakes through 14,000 hectares of farmland in varying shades of green, patchworked with plantations of chickpea, pumpkin, sandalwood and mango. Within 20 minutes, we circle Lake Argyle as the pilot says that at normal capacity, it holds 17 times the volume of Sydney Harbour, and when it floods, that swells to a staggering 70 times. He also lets slip that the Ord River is home to some 35,000 freshwater crocodiles, aka, the friendlier ones.

Top view of Lake Argyle, Kimberley, Western Australia — See the compelling form of Lake Argyle. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

After another 20 minutes in the air, we’re above the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Purnululu National Park and the inspiration for the tour, the Bungle Bungle Range. The whimsical hunched mounds pop up from the Earth and look like brown striped beehives from a Winnie the Pooh book – only supersized. There are so many of them, each with distinctive layers of rock built up over 350 million years, that it’s incredible to think that they were known only to the area’s First Nations peoples until the early 1980s.

Aviair over Kununurra, Kimberley, WA — Take a scenic flight over Kununurra and its surrounds with Aviair. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Hiking in Purnululu National Park

Landing on a gravel airstrip, we’re transferred to a 4WD and taken to the starting point of our walk. Flying over the Bungle Bungle Range is one thing, but walking amid these noble giants elevates the experience to another level. Dwarfed by the towering 300-metre rock stacks, I’m filled with a sense of my own insignificance. The magic of the Kimberley is definitely present here; it feels mythical, sacred even. The traditional custodians, the Gija and Jaru people, have lived in these parts for 40,000 years and our guide points to rock paintings of boomerangs and the outline of hands on a wall tucked beneath a rock shelf.

The relatively flat hike continues to Cathedral Gorge, our lunch stop. We take it in turns to sing, shout and listen to the acoustics bouncing off the rounded rock cavern walls as we sit around the waterhole. As I climb back into the plane, I kick myself that I didn’t opt for an overnight stay at Bungle Bungle Savannah Lodge, to sit around a campfire and relive the day with fellow travellers before retiring in a deluxe safari cabin under a blanket of infinite stars.

Palm trees, Bungle Bungle, Kunnunura, Kimberley, WA — A pair of palm trees put the Bungle Bungle Range in staggering perspective. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Cruising the Ord River

Sunset or sunrise are good times to cruise along the Ord River, the life force of the region. It’s an unmissable experience and, for me, it’s where the Kimberley’s spell intensifies. I meet our skipper, Dylan Lodge, of Triple J Tours , at Celebrity Tree Park on the banks of Lake Kununurra. Once on the water, he points out plovers, darters and other birdlife as the boat glides across the glassy river. Dylan explains that 6000 freshwater crocodiles inhabit the river; the big freshies, as he calls them, can’t be seen but he does find a baby croc and swings the boat around for photos.

We pass Carlton Ridge, known as Elephant Rock, a giant formation resembling an elephant’s head and trunk and further along at Carlton Gorge, the Ord is flanked by 50-metre tall rusty-brown angular rock walls, some streaked with black marks, the stained remnants of wet- season waterfalls. It’s like a slightly wonky Lego build on steroids.

With every trip to Kununurra – my next is in the planning already – the vast, untouched land that surrounds it, dotted with fat boab trees, oases of lush palms with freshwater springs, and gorges the size of New York skyscrapers, engulfs me with a deep sense of wonder that reaches into my very soul. This is ancient country with unparalleled beauty that captivates all who visit it, as if by magic.

Ord River, Kimberley, WA — Cruise the tranquil Ord River. (Image: Tourism Westen Australia)

When to visit

The dry season starts in May and usually kicks off with the annual nine-day Ord Valley Muster festival , which includes a black-tie dinner under the Kimberley stars. The wet season, from October to April, is humid with heavy rains but the payoff is an abundance of waterfalls to wonder at.

The Bungle Bungle Range, Kimberley, WA — The Bungle Bungle Range from above resembles a giant slumbering under a rumpled blanket. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

How to Hike Emma Gorge

The best time to start the hike is in the early morning.
Make it easy by staying overnight at El Questro; splurge on the homestead, stay in a cabin or economise in one of the on-site tents, which are basic but comfortable with ‘en suite’ bathroom cabins nearby.
Allow a minimum of three hours – one hour to hike to Emma Gorge (stopping for photos along the way), at least an hour to swim, rest and take it all in, and an hour to return.
Wear sturdy shoes and bring a pair of neoprene booties.
The hike suits most levels of fitness, but there are boulders to clamber over and the path is very rocky in parts.
The water temperature in the gorge is bracing, but there’s a little thermal spring trickling warm water on the right-hand side wall that you should aim for.

Emma Gorge, Kimberley, WA — Emma Gorge is one of the most popular trails in the Kimberley. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Time your visit to Margaret River just right, and you can spend the ultimate weekend wining, dining and exploring the region with Pair’d Margaret River Region x Range Rover.

Wine, world-class produce, surf, sun and beaches: it’s an alluring combination. And the reason so many pin the Margaret River region high on their travel hit-lists. There’s drawcard after drawcard to the southwestern corner of Western Australia, and the Pair’d Margaret River Region x Range Rover food and wine festival showcases the best of it over the course of one weekend in November. It’s never been easier to sip, see and savour the Margaret River region.

In partnership with Pair’d Margaret River Region, Range Rover invites you on a seven-day itinerary of refined adventure, where luxury and exploration go hand in hand. It’s the perfect WA road trip, and there’s no better way to do it than in a Range Rover.

Day 1

the pool at Pullman Bunker Bay — Check into Pullman Bunker Bay.

There’s no more popular West Australian road trip route than that between Perth and the Margaret River Region. It’s an easily digestible, three-hour drive, with worthy pit stops along the way.

Make the first of them one hour and 15 minutes in, at Lake Clifton. Here, find a 2000-year-old living thrombolite reef. Drive for a further 40 minutes and chance meeting some of Bunbury’s dolphin population at Koombana Bay.

Pullman Bunker Bay is the final stop, just over three hours south of Perth. This beachfront, five-star resort is the ultimate base for exploring the Margaret River Wine region.

Day 2

After a leisurely morning breakfast with an ocean view, start your Range Rover and head towards the Dunsborough town centre. Browsing the decidedly coastal-themed goods of the town’s many independent boutiques is a great way to while away the hours, breaking up the sartorial with an artisan gelato snack stop, or some good old-fashioned Australian bakery fare.

Leave room; you’ll need it for the Good Natured Gathering dinner at Wayfinder. Indulge in a four-course feast by chef Felipe Montiel, which uses produce from the winery’s market garden to enhance a selection of sustainably sourced seafood and meat. But food is just the support act. It’s organic wine that’s the star of the show, generously poured and expertly paired to each dish.

Day 3

Settle in for cabernet at Cape Mentelle Winery.

With a grand total of 20 wines from vintage 2022 to try, it’s a good thing Cape Mentelle’s International Cabernet Tasting kicks off early. Make your way to the estate for a 10:00 AM start, where a global selection of wines will be poured blind, before a long lunch by Tiller Dining is served.

Given that the Margaret River is responsible for more than 20 per cent of Australia’s fine wine production, it’s only right to delve into it while in the area.

Continue exploring the region via taste and terroir aboard Alison Maree, a whale-watching catamaran, as you cruise Geographe Bay . Admire the rolling green hills and crisp white beaches of Quindalup in sunset’s golden light, all the while sipping through the Clairault Streicker catalogue and dining on canapes.

For a more substantial dinner, venture into Busselton for a seven-course British x Australian mash-up , courtesy of Brendan Pratt (Busselton Pavilion) and Oliver Kent (Updown Farmhouse, UK). They’ll be putting their rustic yet refined spin on the likes of local marron, wagyu and abalone – championing the simple beauty of the world-class ingredients.

Day 4

Wrap your fingers around a wine glass and wiggle your toes into the sand at Pair’d Beach Club x Range Rover on Meelup Beach. Sit down to an intimate wine session with sommelier Cyndal Petty – or a four-course feast by Aaron Carr of Yarri – and revel in the open-air beach club, bar and restaurant’s laidback coastal vibe. It’s a whole new way to experience one of the region’s most renowned beaches.

Follow up a day in the sun with a casual Italian party at Mr Barvel Wines . Purchase wines –including the elusive, sold-out Nebbia – by the glass and enjoy canapes with the towering Karri forest as a backdrop.

If you’d prefer to keep it local, head to Skigh Wines for the New Wave Gathering , where the region’s independent wine makers and their boundary-pushing wines will be on show. Street-style eats, a DJ and complimentary wine masterclasses complete the experience.

Day 5

pair'd Grand Tasting — Taste your way through Howard Park Wines. (Image: C J Maddock)

Spend the morning at your leisure, driving the winding roads through the Boranup Karri forest in your Range Rover. Soak in the views at Contos Beach, and call into the small cheese, chocolate and preserve producers along the way.

Make your next stop Howard Park Wines for The Grand Tasting presented by Singapore Airlines . Numerous wine labels will be pouring their catalogues over four hours, accompanied by food from chefs Matt Moran and Silvia Colloca, with live opera providing the soundtrack.

Cap off a big weekend with one last hurrah at Busselton Pavilion. Six ‘local legends’ – chefs Brendan Pratt (Busselton Pavilion), Mal Chow (Chow’s Table), Aaron Carr (Yarri), Ben Jacob (Lagoon Yallingup), Corey Rozario (Dahl Daddies) and Laura Koentjoro (Banksia Tavern) – will be preparing a dish each. Dance the night away as vinyl spins and the sun sets on another day.

Day 6

Ngilgi Cave western australia — Head underground. (Image: Tourism WA)

After a busy few days of wining and dining, it’s wise to observe a rest day. There’s no easier task than unwinding in the Margaret River Region, also famous for its high concentration of world-class beaches.

Relax on the grassy knoll as you watch the region’s most experienced surfers braving the World Surf League break at Surfer’s Point, or don your own wetsuit and try out one of Gracetown’s more beginner-friendly waves. Swimmers will find their Eden at Meelup Beach, Eagle Bay, or Point Piquet, where the sand is brilliantly white and the water as still as a backyard swimming pool.

Not into sun, sand, and surf? Head underground at Mammoth Cave, just one of the region’s many stalactite-filled caves.

Day 7

Burnt Ends event at Pair'd — Farewell the Margaret River.

Pack up your Range Rover with new favourite wines and newfound memories, ready for the three-hour journey back to Perth.

Prebook your discovery journey through the south-west corner of Western Australia with Pair’d Margaret River Region x Range Rover.

The phenomenon that locals refer to as Kimberley magic