Ningaloo Reef: The best ways to experience it by water and sand

The pictures you see of World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Reef almost seem too good to be true: a whale shark cruising towards you as smoothly as an ocean liner, a manta ray executing a perfect loop in crystal clear ocean, turtles stopping to nibble on coral, oblivious you’re watching from less than one metre away, and tropical fish, absolutely everywhere you look.

The world’s closest fringing reef has a lot going for it, and that’s before you realise you can actually just wade into it. No need for a lengthy boat ride to reach this extraordinary slab of nature: you simply don a snorkel mask, throw a few lazy freestyle motions through the big blue and by the time your eyes focus, you’re skimming over coral gardens. Yes, you will actually want to pinch yourself – we know from experience.

Coral Bay Turtle — *Swimming with turtles at Coral Bay*

Base camp: Exmouth or Coral Bay?

Ningaloo Reef stretches along the coast for 300 kilometres and two sun-kissed towns service it with tours, accommodation and fun times: Exmouth and Coral Bay. Larger Exmouth has an airport (called Learmonth) with Qantas flights operating daily and car hire, whereas you’ll need to drive to Coral Bay. Exmouth tips a slender peninsula and the reef and beaches must be reached by road, whereas Coral Bay sits on soft white sands and you can wander to the beachfront on foot. Both towns offer whale shark and humpback whale swim-tours, while manta ray swims are only accessible from Coral Bay.

Swimming with whale sharks

Being wowed by the size of a whale shark is what a swim experience is all about… right? But when you’re watching these gentle giants of the ocean glide by, you’ll notice the white patterns on their backs that appear to be dancing. Like light slicing through ocean, these dots and squiggles are as captivating as the vacuum-like jaws and 300 tiny, harmless teeth of the world’s biggest fish.

whale shark ningaloo reef — *Get up close and personal with these gentle giants*

How: Numerous charter boats run full-day, all-inclusive whale shark trips.

When: March to August

Frolicking with humpbacks

Humpback whales are regarded as the most playful of all the species found along WA’s extensive coastline. It’s estimated about 35,000 of them migrate along the state’s aquatic edge each year, and Ningaloo Reef is at the centre of that journey. Humpback interaction tours allow you to swim to within 30 metres of these immense whales, although many are curious enough to come closer – and if they choose it, it’s allowed. Cross your fingers.

How: Numerous charter boats run humpback day trips.

When: August to October

Ballet with manta rays and flying with turtles

Manta rays are astonishingly inquisitive. They’re also far bigger than you might imagine, so when one does a fly-by past your ear, it can be a little unnerving. Keep calm – they don’t have barbs – and join their graceful ocean dance; soon you’ll be doing somersaults and twists, mimicking their movements. Sea turtles tend to look like they’re flying through the water, and there’s a good chance you’ll see plenty on one of these trips. After all, Ningaloo Reef has one of the most biologically diverse marine environments on the planet.

Manta rays ocean — *Watch as they effortlessly glide through the water*

How: Coral Bay’s charter boats hold manta ray swim experiences.

When: All year round

The must-see beaches

In early 2019, West Australians voted Turquoise Bay as the state’s most incredible beach. Its pale sands are captivating, but it’s the phenomenal colour of the water – and what’s beneath it – that we think sees it rated so highly. A gentle current runs parallel with the beach, so snorkellers can walk away from the carpark, step into the water and drift back, watching a veritable showreel of coral and fish as they float. Further south, Coral Bay is another firm favourite. Crystalline water, a motionless lagoon and swimmable access to the reef make this bay hard to beat.

How: You can self-drive; from Exmouth, Turquoise Bay is 70 kilometres and Coral Bay is 150 kilometres.

When: All year round

Where the outback meets the ocean

While all eyes are turned to Ningaloo Reef’s coastline, it pays to take a backward glance toward Cape Range National Park. The rugged ranges harbour caves, canyons and rare plant and animal species such as the white-centred Sturt’s Desert Pea and shy, black-footed rock wallabies. Join a gorge cruise at Yardie Creek or follow a view-blessed walking trail such as the one at Mandu Mandu Gorge.

How: Head there by self-drive or tour; contact the Exmouth Visitor Centre for information

When: All year round but best in the cooler months of April to October

Stay in style

If money’s no object, Sal Salis is your answer. Its exclusive wilderness tents furnished with polished floors and king-size beds are pure outback luxury. Over the dunes, the reef seems closer to shore than anywhere else, and the snorkelling is spectacular. In Exmouth, Mantarays Ningaloo Beach Resort has 4.5-star hotel rooms or self-contained apartments clustering around its impressive pool and restaurant.

Sal Salis glamping — Immerse yourself in glamping at its finest

How: Sal Salis is a one-hour drive from Exmouth, or 90 minutes from the airport; Mantarays is a 15-minute drive from the airport.

When: Sal Salis is open March to October; Mantarays is open year round.

This remote corner of Australia is one of the world’s last frontiers. This is how to see it properly.

Vast, rugged and deeply spiritual, the Kimberley coast in Australia’s North West feels a world away from everyday Australia – and there are countless ways to explore it. But if you want to reach ancient rock art, hidden gorges and lonely waterfalls, it has to be by boat. Whether you’re aboard a nimble expedition vessel or a luxury yacht with all the trimmings, exploring by the water brings exclusive experiences, shows unique views and makes travel easier than any other mode. And that’s just the beginning of Australia’s North West cruises.

The True North Adventure Cruise in between sandstone cliffs. — Adventure starts where the road ends.

1. Discover Broome, and beyond

Explore your launchpad before you set sail: Broome. Here camels and their riders stride along the 22 kilometres of powdery Cable Beach at sunset. That’s just the start.

At Gantheaume Point, red pindan cliffs plunge into the turquoise sea, whose low tide uncovers fossilised dinosaur footprints. Broome’s pearling history runs deep. Japanese, Chinese, Malay and Aboriginal divers once worked these waters, and their legacy lives on in boutiques where South Sea pearls still shine.

If the moon’s right, you may catch the Staircase to the Moon over Roebuck Bay. Or simply kick back with a cold beverage and a film under the stars at Sun Pictures , screening since 1916.

Ride a camel along Cable Beach as the sun sinks into the Indian Ocean, casting golden light across the sand and sea. — Ride a camel along Cable Beach. (Image: Nick Dunn)

2. Unmatched access to The Kimberley

Once you’re onboard, expect a backstage pass to some of the most isolated places on Earth. No roads. No ports. No phone reception.

At Horizontal Falls/ Garaanngaddim, 10-metre tides surge through twin gorges like a natural waterpark ride that’ll make your palms sweat. Then there’s Montgomery Reef/ Yowjab: a giant living platform of coral and seagrass, where the sea pulls back to reveal waterfalls, sea turtles and ospreys.

Up north, King George Falls/ Oomari rage 80 metres down red cliffs. Zodiac boats often nudge in closer so you can feel the spray on your sun-warmed cheeks. You might even fly in to reach Mitchell Falls/ Punamii-unpuu, a four-tiered cascade where you can swim in freshwater pools above the drop.

Come spring, some itineraries veer west to Rowley Shoals: an atoll chain of white sand and reef walls. Then it’s up the winding Prince Regent River to King Cascade/ Maamboolbadda, tumbling over rock terraces, and into a Zodiac to view the Gwion Gwion rock art, whose slender, ochre-painted figures are older than the pyramids.

A cruise drifts beneath King George Falls, where sheer sandstone cliffs frame the thunderous plunge into turquoise waters. — Get closer to the Kimberley than ever before.

3. Taste the Kimberley with onboard hospitality

You might spend your days clambering over slippery rocks or charging past waterfalls. But when you’re back on the water, it’s a different story. Meals are chef-prepared and regionally inspired: grilled barramundi, pearl meat sashimi, mango tarts, and bush tomato chutney. One night it’s barefoot beach barbecues with your shipmates; the next, alfresco dining on the ship.

Small expedition ships each have their own personality, but many carry just 12 to 36 guests, making being out on the water a whole other experience. You might sink into a spa on the foredeck or sip coffee in a lounge while watching crocodiles cruise by. It’s choose-your-own-relaxation, Kimberley style.

4. Expert-led excursions through the Kimberley

These voyages are led by people who know the Kimberley like the back of their sunburnt hand. Attenborough-esque naturalists might gently tap your shoulder to point out rare birds or tell the story beneath a slab of rock. Historians can explain exactly how that rusted World War II relic came to rest here.

If your ship has a helipad, you might chopper straight to a waterfall-fed swimming hole. If not, you’ll still be hopping ashore for that wet landing at a secret creek.

Then come the evenings: songlines shared by Traditional Owners under the stars, or astronomy sessions that link what’s overhead with what’s underfoot and what’s within.

A small group glides through Kimberley’s rugged coastline by boat, passing ancient cliffs. — Explore with naturalists and historians by your side.

5. Relax in luxurious lodgings

Just because you’re off-grid doesn’t mean you have to rough it. These Kimberley vessels are small in size, but mighty in luxury. True North’s ships come with their own helicopters and a no-sea-days policy, so you’re always in the thick of it. Try the luxurious offerings from Ocean Dream Charters for exploration in style. Kimberley Quest offers a fast boat for easy, off-ship adventures. On the larger end of the scale, Coral Expeditions has open-deck bars and curated wine cellars. And then there’s Ponant’s luxury yachts – sleek and incredibly stylish French sailing yachts.

A helicopter soars above the sea, with a sleek cruise ship gliding in the distance. — See the Kimberley from sky to shore.

6. The adventure continues with pre- and post-cruise experiences

You’ve already come this far – so, why not go further? Broome makes it easy to ease in before you board, or wind down when your voyage ends, and there is no reason to stop there.

Head an hour and a half south to Eco Beach to stay off-grid and off the clock. Join a Yawuru guide for a mangrove walk or ocean forage. Dive even deeper into Broome’s pearling past at Willie Creek or Cygnet Bay, where divers and craftspeople still pull the seawater-slicked gems from the deep.

If you’re still craving adventure, it’s time to go further. Soar over the Buccaneer Archipelago, or detour inland with a 4WD trip along the Gibb River Road. Book a scenic flight over the Bungle Bungles. Or – because you never know when you’ll be back – do all three.

aerial of people walking on eco beach in the kimberley western australia — Stay off grid at Eco Beach. (Image: Tourism WA)

Find out more about your trip to Australia’s North West at australiasnorthwest.com .

The best ways to experience the pristine Ningaloo Reef