The best ways to experience the pristine Ningaloo Reef

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The pictures you see of World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Reef almost seem too good to be true: a whale shark cruising towards you as smoothly as an ocean liner, a manta ray executing a perfect loop in crystal clear ocean, turtles stopping to nibble on coral, oblivious you’re watching from less than one metre away, and tropical fish, absolutely everywhere you look.

 

The world’s closest fringing reef has a lot going for it, and that’s before you realise you can actually just wade into it. No need for a lengthy boat ride to reach this extraordinary slab of nature: you simply don a snorkel mask, throw a few lazy freestyle motions through the big blue and by the time your eyes focus, you’re skimming over coral gardens. Yes, you will actually want to pinch yourself – we know from experience.

Coral Bay Turtle
Swimming with turtles at Coral Bay

Base camp: Exmouth or Coral Bay?

Ningaloo Reef stretches along the coast for 300 kilometres and two sun-kissed towns service it with tours, accommodation and fun times: Exmouth and Coral Bay. Larger Exmouth has an airport (called Learmonth) with Qantas flights operating daily and car hire, whereas you’ll need to drive to Coral Bay. Exmouth tips a slender peninsula and the reef and beaches must be reached by road, whereas Coral Bay sits on soft white sands and you can wander to the beachfront on foot. Both towns offer whale shark and humpback whale swim-tours, while manta ray swims are only accessible from Coral Bay.

Swimming with whale sharks

Being wowed by the size of a whale shark is what a swim experience is all about… right? But when you’re watching these gentle giants of the ocean glide by, you’ll notice the white patterns on their backs that appear to be dancing. Like light slicing through ocean, these dots and squiggles are as captivating as the vacuum-like jaws and 300 tiny, harmless teeth of the world’s biggest fish.

whale shark ningaloo reef
Get up close and personal with these gentle giants

 

How: Numerous charter boats run full-day, all-inclusive whale shark trips.

When: March to August

Frolicking with humpbacks

Humpback whales are regarded as the most playful of all the species found along WA’s extensive coastline. It’s estimated about 35,000 of them migrate along the state’s aquatic edge each year, and Ningaloo Reef is at the centre of that journey. Humpback interaction tours allow you to swim to within 30 metres of these immense whales, although many are curious enough to come closer – and if they choose it, it’s allowed. Cross your fingers.

 

How: Numerous charter boats run humpback day trips.

When: August to October

Ballet with manta rays and flying with turtles

Manta rays are astonishingly inquisitive. They’re also far bigger than you might imagine, so when one does a fly-by past your ear, it can be a little unnerving. Keep calm – they don’t have barbs – and join their graceful ocean dance; soon you’ll be doing somersaults and twists, mimicking their movements. Sea turtles tend to look like they’re flying through the water, and there’s a good chance you’ll see plenty on one of these trips. After all, Ningaloo Reef has one of the most biologically diverse marine environments on the planet.

Manta rays ocean
Watch as they effortlessly glide through the water

 

How: Coral Bay’s charter boats hold manta ray swim experiences.

When: All year round

The must-see beaches

In early 2019, West Australians voted Turquoise Bay as the state’s most incredible beach. Its pale sands are captivating, but it’s the phenomenal colour of the water – and what’s beneath it – that we think sees it rated so highly. A gentle current runs parallel with the beach, so snorkellers can walk away from the carpark, step into the water and drift back, watching a veritable showreel of coral and fish as they float. Further south, Coral Bay is another firm favourite. Crystalline water, a motionless lagoon and swimmable access to the reef make this bay hard to beat.

 

How: You can self-drive; from Exmouth, Turquoise Bay is 70 kilometres and Coral Bay is 150 kilometres.

When: All year round

Where the outback meets the ocean

While all eyes are turned to Ningaloo Reef’s coastline, it pays to take a backward glance toward Cape Range National Park. The rugged ranges harbour caves, canyons and rare plant and animal species such as the white-centred Sturt’s Desert Pea and shy, black-footed rock wallabies. Join a gorge cruise at Yardie Creek or follow a view-blessed walking trail such as the one at Mandu Mandu Gorge.

Cape Range National Park
The vast and vibrant Cape Range National Park is just as awe-inspiring

 

How: Head there by self-drive or tour; contact the Exmouth Visitor Centre for information

When: All year round but best in the cooler months of April to October

Stay in style

If money’s no object, Sal Salis is your answer. Its exclusive wilderness tents furnished with polished floors and king-size beds are pure outback luxury. Over the dunes, the reef seems closer to shore than anywhere else, and the snorkelling is spectacular. In Exmouth, Mantarays Ningaloo Beach Resort has 4.5-star hotel rooms or self-contained apartments clustering around its impressive pool and restaurant.

Sal Salis glamping
Immerse yourself in glamping at its finest

 

How: Sal Salis is a one-hour drive from Exmouth, or 90 minutes from the airport; Mantarays is a 15-minute drive from the airport.

When: Sal Salis is open March to October; Mantarays is open year round.

Fleur Bainger
Fleur Bainger is a freelance travel writer and journalism mentor who has been contributing to Australian Traveller since 2009! The thrill of discovering new, hidden and surprising things is what ignites her. She gets a buzz from sharing these adventures with readers, so their travels can be equally transformative.
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8 secret places in Western Australia you need to know about

    Kate BettesBy Kate Bettes
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    WA might be enormous, but the right insider knowledge brings its mysteries a whole lot closer.

    “Western Australia is a land of record-breakers,” says Carolyn Tipper, a Travel Director working on AAT Kings Western Australia tours. “It has the second-longest fault line, the second-largest meteorite crater, the second-fastest flowing river—it just keeps surprising you. And every area has its charm.”

    From tropics to deserts, Australia’s largest state is a land of extremes. You can’t see all of Western Australia in a lifetime, but with the right guide, you can discover its hidden pockets of magic.

    Carolyn wishes to reach her guests’ hearts. “I want them to enjoy and be in awe,” she says. “I want them to have the holiday of a lifetime.”

    1. Mimbi Caves

    You wouldn’t expect a Great Barrier Reef in the outback – but that’s what you’ll find at Mimbi Caves. Once part of a 350-million-year-old reef, these caves hold marine fossils, ancient Indigenous rock art, and Dreamtime stories shared by a Gooniyandi guide.

    “That’s when the real connection happens,” says Carolyn, who has taken guests through on the AAT Kings Wonders of the West Coast and Kimberley tour . “When guests connect, not just with the land, but with the people who have called it home for tens of thousands of years.”

    Eye-level view of traveller exploring Mimbi Caves.
    Walk through ancient limestone passages. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

    2. Kalbarri National Park

    Nothing prepares you for the Kalbarri Skywalk: a 25-metre platform jutting over Murchison Gorge, 100 metres above the red cliffs and river below. From July to October, join the AAT Kings Untamed Pilbara and West Coast tour to see over 1000 wildflower species paint the park, and listen as an Indigenous guide shares their uses, bush foods and medicine plants.

    “I want our guests to have an emotional experience,” says Carolyn. “It’s not just about seeing the land, it’s about stepping into the stories.”

    An aerial view of the Kalbarri Skywalk, one of the secret places in Western Australia, with visitors on the edge.
    Stand on the Kalbarri Skywalk in Western Australia. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

    3. Hamelin Bay Wines

    Margaret River isn’t just a top wine region – it’s a winner in every category. Where the Indian and Southern Oceans collide, granite cliffs rise, limestone caves sprawl and Karri forests tower. It almost distracts from the world-class Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

    Almost.

    Out of over 100 cellar doors, AAT Kings pick Hamelin Bay Wines as a favourite. Hosted tastings of small-batch wines on the Western Wonderland tour end with a group meal. The menu shifting with the seasons.

    “Get off the beaten track to one of WA’s most relaxed venues for some amazing red and white signature wines,” explains Carolyn, “accompanied with upmarket pub food.”

    Spectacular views.

    A person raising a glass of Chardonnay against a glowing Western Australia sunset.
    Sip world-class wines at Hamelin Bay in Western Australia. (Image: Getty)

    4. Wildflower Guided Walk, Kings Park

    Western Australia is home to 12,000 native plant species – 3000 bloom in Kings Park’s Botanic Garden. Stroll past Kangaroo Paw, Banksia and blooms from the Goldfields, Stirling Ranges and Kimberley. “The diversity of Western Australia is immense,” says Carolyn, who leads guests through on the South Western Escape tour .

    Couple enjoying the view from the Lotterywest Federation walkway at Kings Park and Botanical Garden.
    Wander among thousands of native plant species. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

    5. Hoochery Distillery

    Did you know that between Kununurra and Emma Gorge lies the state’s oldest continuously operating distillery? Well, the oldest legal one. Set on a family farm, Hoochery Distillery was hand-built using materials found on the property, conjuring up award-winning rum from local sugarcane, wet season rainwater and yeast.

    Today, visitors can sample a hearty nip of rum, along with whiskies and gins – all crafted using traditional, labour-intensive methods. It’s the ideal way to soak up the ‘spirit’ of the Kimberley on the AAT Kings’ Untamed Kimberley tour .

    People enjoying a rum tasting at one of the secret places in Western Australia.
    Sample award-winning rum. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

    6. Geraldton

    The wildflowers of the Midwest will make your heart blossom. In Geraldton, the Helen Ansell Art Gallery brings the region’s botanicals to life in vivid colour and intricate detail. In nearby Mullewa, wander bushland trails lined with everlastings and native blooms. Further afield, Coalseam Conservation Park bursts into carpets of pink, white, and yellow each spring. Do it all on the Wildflower Wanderer tour with AAT Kings.

    woman walking through Wildflowers, Coalseam Conservation Park
    Chase vibrant wildflower trails. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

    7. El Questro

    Wake up after a night under the stars at Emma Gorge Resort, ready to explore the mighty beauty of the El Questro Wilderness Park. With deep gorges, thermal springs, and cascading waterfalls, time slows here.

    Join the AAT Kings’ Wonders of the West Coast and Kimberley tour to drift through Chamberlain Gorge, where sheer sandstone walls glow burnt orange in the sun, archer fish flick at the surface, and rock wallabies peer down from ledges above. Then, step into Zebedee Springs, a secret oasis of warm, crystal-clear pools among prehistoric Livistona palms – a moment of pure, wild stillness.

    Emma Gorge Resort at El Questro.
    Wake to adventure at Emma Gorge Resort. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

    8. Lake Argyle

    Once vast cattle country, Lake Argyle now sprawls like an inland sea – Western Australia’s largest freshwater lake, created by the damming of the Ord River. Scattered with over 70 islands, its glassy waters teem with life, like freshwater crocodiles, barramundi, bony bream, sleepy cod and over 240 bird species. That’s nearly a third of Australia’s avian population.

    Glide across the lake’s surface on a cruise as part of AAT Kings’ Untamed Kimberley tour , where the silence is only broken by the splash of fish and the call of birds. For Carolyn, this place is a perfect example of how WA’s landscapes surprise visitors. “Lake Argyle is a big puddle of water that became a game-changer,” she says. “Seeing it from a boat, coach, and plane is mind-blowing. It puts time, isolation and the sheer scale into perspective.”

    Aerial View of Triple J Tours on the Ord River, near Kununurra.
    Glide past islands on Western Australia’s largest freshwater lake. (Image: Western Australia)

    Discover more of Western Australia’s hidden gems and book your tour at aatkings.com.