Premier transport company Cobb & Co became a true pioneer of Australian travel in a time when passage through the country was notoriously uncomfortable.
Australia’s most iconic coach service was started in the gold rush years in Victoria by young American Freeman Cobb.
Along with John Peck, James Swanton and John Lamber, he had recognised the need for passenger transportation between colonies and mining towns, and further inland to the outback.
The first Cobb & Co route was the short trip between Melbourne and Port Melbourne in 1853. At the time, coach travel was essential but passengers were often struck down with motion sickness and injuries from the bumpy ride.
But Cobb & Co’s coaches were superior, imported from America where they were designed for travel in the Midwest, which had similar conditions to Australia’s rugged terrain.
With regular and reliable services, specially bred horses suited to pulling a fully laden coach at gallop (the coaches carried up to 17 people and luggage), and fixed stops at changing stations to rest and swap horses, Cobb & Co became the preferred and luxurious method of travel.
Changing stations were usually privately run by a family or couple who would provide refreshments for passengers and overnight accommodation; some were more established pubs and inns that prospered from Cobb & Co services.
By 1861 the company had expanded into New South Wales and Queensland after new director James Rutherford secured a valuable contract for the delivery of mail.
But with these profitable mail runs and regular routes came another danger: bushrangers who would wait for the coaches on isolated roads.
Australian artist Tom Roberts’s 1895 painting Bailed up was inspired by one of these incidents, when coach driver ‘Silent Bob Bates’ was held up by local bushranger Captain Thunderbolt in the 1860s.
At its peak, Cobb & Co’s coaches were travelling an astounding 45,000 kilometres each week and harnessing up to 6000 horses. But after 70 years of operation, the last horse-drawn Cobb & Co service ran in 1924, when train travel superseded the need for coaches.
Despite its demise, this iconic transport company was forever immortalised in Australian folklore, charmingly penned in folk singer Lionel Long’s The Ballad of Cobb & Co.: “The driver’s whips are cracking and the horses’ hooves are dragging. As across the red and dusty trail they race. There’s a distant light a burning and the passengers are yearning, for the comfort of a warm and kindly place."
Megan Arkinstall is a freelance travel writer who you’ll often find at the beach, bushwalking or boating with her young family. She loves reliving travel memories through writing, whether that be sipping limoncello in a sun-drenched courtyard of Monterosso or swimming with green turtles in the aquamarine waters of Tropical North Queensland.
More than just a stopover, Albury Wodonga is an elevated city escape immersed in nature.
Perhaps best known as a road trip stop between Sydney and Melbourne, Albury Wodonga offers a combination of natural beauty, cultural experiences and a vibrant food scene that make it well worth its own journey.
Nestled on the banks of the mighty Murray River and surrounded by famed wine and gold rush regions, this riverside town packs a broad punch. Discover how best to spend your days on the border.
Exploring the Murray River
1. The Crossing Place Trail
Admire sculptural works from local Indigenous artists.
Head to the original crossing places of the Murray River since 1848 – at the junctions of Bungambrawatha Creek and Oddies Creek. Today, these crossings are still used by cars and cattle, but the five-kilometre Crossing Place Trail loop connects the two bridges for bike riders and walkers.
Wander through gum trees, and maybe even spot local platypus and birdlife. Stop along the way to admire sculptural works from local Indigenous artists, see evidence of a scar tree and learn about the importance of this billabong environment to Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples.
2. Canoe The Murray
Hire canoes or kayaks and get out on the river.
What better way to get a feel for the Murray River than by getting out on its waters? Hire canoes or kayaks from Canoe the Murray , then explore solo or join one of the offered tours. Get up early for a Sunrise and coffee tour, watch the sun dip below the water on a sunset tour or choose one of several daytime trips.
Stand-up paddleboard hire and other water sports, fishing and swimming are also available to river explorers.
3. Noreuil Park Foreshore
Cool off at Noreuil Park Foreshore. (Image: Visit Victoria)
Just outside Albury’s CBD, the riverside Noreuil Park becomes a hub of activity as the weather heats up. Set up on picnic tables under shady trees, use the public barbecues (or pop into the nearby cafe) and cool off with a float down the river.
4. Mungabareena Reserve and Water Works
Spend time at Mungabareena Reserve. (Image: Visit Albury Wodonga)
Delve into nature and culture at the beautiful Mungabareena Reserve . Recognised by state law as a ‘Declared Aboriginal Place’, it was once a historical meeting point for trade and journeys to Mount Bogong for the local Wiradjuri people and still holds deep significance.
It’s another popular spot for fishing, swimming and picnics, while the nearby Water Works area is a great place for spotting wildlife. Try your luck seeing platypuses, wood ducks or rainbow bee-eaters.
Adventuring on Lake Hume
1. Walk the dam wall
Enjoy the view from the dam wall. (Image: Visit Albury Wodonga)
The majestic Lake Hume – a massive man-made reservoir on the Murray River – was once the largest dam in the Southern Hemisphere.
A great way to get acquainted is by walking along the dam wall, taking in views of outflows, electricity turbines and the transmission plant from above. Not to mention vistas of the lake and the Murray. It’s a particularly gorgeous spot for sunsets and sunrises.
A wide sealed walkway gives easy access to the wall, and informative signs and displays along the way educate on the dam’s construction.
2. The High Country Rail Trail
This 44-kilometre trail hugs the shoreline. Stop along the way at the historic town of Tallangatta, relocated to its current position in the 1950s after its original location was flooded. Cross the lake over the bright red Sandy Creek Bridge. Enjoy a lakeside picnic or go for a swim at Ebden, Ludlow’s or Huon Reserve.
3. Water sports
Dive into water sports on Lake Hume.
Lake Hume is a popular local spot for boating, fishing, and swimming. Drop a line or dive right into the clear waters.
Sip and Savour
1. Dux Albury
Sit down to delicious meals and wine at Dux.
Those looking for a high-end dining experience need to book a table at Dux Albury in the heart of Albury Wodonga. Sit down for curated wine lists, cocktails and share plates. Think starters like burrata with beetroot, chervil, caper berry and sherry, mains like Wagyu sirloin with Café De Paris, red wine and caramelised onions and all manner of fresh seafood.
2. Murray Towns Brewing Co.
Recharge at Murray Brewing Co.
Perched on the banks of the river, Murray Towns Brewing Co . has come a long way since two mates started experimenting in their backyard chook shed. With all beer brewed onsite and a sun-drenched beer garden to drink them in, it’s a perfect stop along a bike ride or walk.
3. Temperance and General
Step into Albury’s original laneway bar, Temperance and General . Set inside a historic building, but offering a modern vibe, the bar is locally famous for its cocktail list. Stop in before or after dinner for a creative tipple.
4. BeanStation Cafe
Dine on a modern Australian menu.
Dine on a modern Australian menu , inside the historic Wodonga train station building, dating back to 1873. Pop over in the morning and line up with the locals for great coffee and all-day brekkie, or head over after midday to swap the beans for local wines and Aussie boutique beers.
5. River Deck Cafe
Soak in views and good food at Riverdeck Cafe. (Image: Visit Victoria)
Another dining destination next to the Murray, the award-winning River Deck Cafe provides a large deck covered in dappled sunlight that makes for the ideal long lunch spot. Here, menus focus on natural, native and local ingredients sourced from regional farmers and producers across Albury Wodonga and surrounds.
Museums, murals and more
1. Albury Wodonga Public Art Trail
Gain a sense of Albury Wodonga’s vibrant arts community while wandering the Public Art Trail. Works range from sculptures and murals to wrapped infrastructure. Be sure to check the council map before you head out, so you don’t miss a thing.
2. Murray Art Museum Albury (MAMA)
Stop into one of the most visited galleries outside of Sydney. (Image: Visit Albury Wodonga)
MAMA forms the heart of art and culture in Albury Wodonga, some may say the entire Murray region. In fact, it’s one of the most visited galleries outside of Sydney. What makes it so lauded? The museum has earned a reputation for curating innovative, original exhibitions from some of the best contemporary Australian and international artists.
3. HotHouse Theatre
Originally built in 1928 as the Butter Factory Theatre, HotHouse Theatre has been a home of performance since 1997. Stop by to see the best of new Australian theatre. Continue to explore unique architecture on the Historic Building Walking Tour of Albury, the perfect way to round out your stay.
