Recruited from the Middle East and India for their hardiness, camels were the backbone of support behind some of this country’s most ambitious infrastructure projects, writes Jessica Zavolokin.
It’s the New Year’s Eve of 1865 in Port Augusta, South Australia, and a crowd of people gather to witness the spectacle of 124 camels being hoisted from a ship onto a new continent and 31 peculiar, sandal-clad men setting foot on unfamiliar territory.
These foreigners would go on to be a pillar for the Australian economy, ultimately supporting the outback for 50 years, playing a pivotal and much understated role in Australian history.
Nineteenth-century Australia was a magnet for explorers, settlers and prospectors who were eager to map the vast and inhospitable continent, but it had become clear that horses, the traditional means of transport, weren’t suitable for such tough conditions. The solution was the so-called Afghan Cameleers (a misnomer because they weren’t all from Afghanistan).
They would assist exploration parties – such as the Burke and Wills expedition of 1860 and Madigan’s Simpson Desert Crossing in 1939 – hauling supplies and resources where horses and oxen couldn’t.
Madigan initially described the camels as “queer, stupid and unapproachable", but acknowledged their capabilities in the soaring heat when food and water dried up. He said the camel “kneels, uncomplaining and unconcerned, a tower of strength and comfort… good for another 200 miles".
There were some 800 cameleers in Australia by the 1890s; not only did these men and their steeds assist with exploration, they played a momentous role in our country’s infrastructure.
Most significantly, they were an integral part in the construction of the Overland Telegraph between Adelaide and Darwin and later The Ghan railway between Adelaide and Alice Springs, carrying building and railway resources, food, furniture, water, mail and medicine.
Graham Dadlah, a train driver on The Ghan for more than 35 years, honours his ancestral legacy: “My great grandfather was one of the first cameleers to come out in the late 1800s to Australia; he was brought out here to work the camel trains and deliver transport for the telegraph line through to Alice Springs."
More than 150 years on, he feels great pride taking passengers through the heart of the country. “It’s a unique job and I feel honoured to be a driver of this legendary train."
The Northern Territory isn’t just different – it’s a whole new world. From the friendly locals and varied landscapes to its cultural layers, there’s nowhere else in Australia quite like it.
The Northern Territory has to be experienced to be believed. The majesty of Uluṟu doesn’t quite hit until you’re standing before it. The untouched beauty of Arnhem Land strikes the heart in a way you can’t imagine. The quirky and friendly locals and the festivals they throw impart stories that won’t be forgotten. And that’s just the beginning. From natural hot springs and local larrikins to deep cultural ties and ancient stories, these are the experiences to be discovered only in the NT.
The NT’s natural hot springs are truly picturesque. Katherine’s crystal clear thermal springs sit on the banks of the Katherine River, framed by nature. Picnic grounds and scenic walking tracks make it easy to linger.
In Elsey National Park, the teal waters of Bitter Springs have long been popular with locals. It’s not uncommon to spot turtles as you drift with the gentle current, palm trees waving on the banks. The park also contains Mataranka Thermal Pool, a sandy-bottomed swimming hole sitting at a cosy 34°C year-round.
2. Explore the Red Centre Light Trail
Head to Kings Canyon to see the Light Towers. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT)
Uluṟu-Kata Tjuṯa National Park is more than just a place; it’s earned its name as Australia’s cultural heart. Here, a wealth of stories is held by its Traditional Owners, the Aṉangu. And while there are many ways to connect, in more recent years, the Red Centre Light Trail has offered visitors one more way to interpret all this landscape holds.
Wander the Light Towers at Kings Canyon and watch the Field of Light transform the land before Uluṟu as day turns to night. Also, be sure to take in Wintjiri Wiṟu by light artist Bruce Ramus, sharing the Aṉangu’s Mala story.
Arrive in April to experience Parrtjima, a free annual 10-night festival of light, featuring installations, workshops and more.
3. See unrivalled views from a helicopter
See Kakadu from the air. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Sean Scott)
There’s no better place in the world to hit the skies in a helicopter. Soar over thundering waterfalls, world-famous wetlands and the floodplains of Kakadu National Park. A bird’s-eye view brings a special type of magic to this one-of-a-kind landscape.
You can also meet local characters on the pub crawl of a lifetime as you fly between some of the NT’s best and most remote pubs.
4. Discover the start of Western Arrarnta art
Book ahead to visit Hermannsburg Potters. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Felix Baker)
Hermannsburg is one of the most unique towns in Australia. This historic mission town holds several claims to fame, including being the birthplace of Western Arrarnta art – a renowned style of Indigenous art using vibrant, naturalistic watercolours to depict Central Australian desert landscapes. Book ahead from April to September to visit Hermannsburg Potters, a collective of dedicated Western Arrarnta artists.
Spot wild crocs up close. (Credit: Tourism Australia)
The NT is the only territory that feeds wild crocs, putting the ‘wild’ in wildlife spotting experience. Join a cruise along the Adelaide River, just an hour from Darwin, to see these not-so-gentle prehistoric giants in their natural habitat.
Be sure to stop into Humpty Doo or Noonamah for lunch on your way back to Darwin. Here, you’ll experience a real NT roadhouse.
6. Experience local Indigenous cultures
Time a trip to Nhulunbuy for the Garma Festival. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT)
The NT offers some of the best opportunities to experience the world’s most ancient living culture. Head to Nhulunbuy in East Arnhem mid-year for the Garma Festival, Australia’s largest Indigenous gathering, with four days of song, dance and art sharing Yolngu culture. Stop into Buku-Larrnggay Mulka Centre in nearby Yirrkala while you’re there, current home of the Yirrkala Church Panels. Painted in 1963, they form one of the first ‘title deeds’ to Country.
Join a celebration of Indigenous music, art, culture and sport at the Barunga Festival, 80 kilometres from Katherine, every June. And year-round, book an Indigenous-led tour through Ubirr, one of the oldest rock art sites in Australia.
7. Meet the larrikins of Alice Springs
Henley on Todd Regatta might be one of the NT’s whackiest events. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/
Head to Alice Springs at any time of year and you’ll be guaranteed to meet some colourful locals. But to really get to the heart of the eccentricities, mark a few dates on your calendar.
March brings one of the best Pride events in the world, fabAlice. Inspired by the iconic Aussie movie The Adventures ofPriscilla, Queen of the Desert, which was filmed in Alice Springs over 25 years ago, the festival has a strong focus on the art of drag and celebrates LGBTQI+ communities, as well as self-expression in general.
Come August, Todd River’s typically dry, sandy bed comes alive with the world’s only dry river boating event, the Henley on Todd Regatta.
8. Swim in a waterfall with no one else around
Swim in the Upper Cascades with no one else around.
So few of Australia’s most beautiful places remain untouched, but that’s not true in the NT. Take a short hike through monsoon forest in Litchfield National Park (just over an hour’s drive outside of Darwin) to reach the secluded Cascades swimming area. Here, take a dip in the lower or upper cascade pools, both surrounded by rugged bushland. And you’ll probably have it all to yourself.
