Recruited from the Middle East and India for their hardiness, camels were the backbone of support behind some of this country’s most ambitious infrastructure projects, writes Jessica Zavolokin.
It’s the New Year’s Eve of 1865 in Port Augusta, South Australia, and a crowd of people gather to witness the spectacle of 124 camels being hoisted from a ship onto a new continent and 31 peculiar, sandal-clad men setting foot on unfamiliar territory.
These foreigners would go on to be a pillar for the Australian economy, ultimately supporting the outback for 50 years, playing a pivotal and much understated role in Australian history.
Nineteenth-century Australia was a magnet for explorers, settlers and prospectors who were eager to map the vast and inhospitable continent, but it had become clear that horses, the traditional means of transport, weren’t suitable for such tough conditions. The solution was the so-called Afghan Cameleers (a misnomer because they weren’t all from Afghanistan).
They would assist exploration parties – such as the Burke and Wills expedition of 1860 and Madigan’s Simpson Desert Crossing in 1939 – hauling supplies and resources where horses and oxen couldn’t.
Madigan initially described the camels as “queer, stupid and unapproachable", but acknowledged their capabilities in the soaring heat when food and water dried up. He said the camel “kneels, uncomplaining and unconcerned, a tower of strength and comfort… good for another 200 miles".
There were some 800 cameleers in Australia by the 1890s; not only did these men and their steeds assist with exploration, they played a momentous role in our country’s infrastructure.
Most significantly, they were an integral part in the construction of the Overland Telegraph between Adelaide and Darwin and later The Ghan railway between Adelaide and Alice Springs, carrying building and railway resources, food, furniture, water, mail and medicine.
Graham Dadlah, a train driver on The Ghan for more than 35 years, honours his ancestral legacy: “My great grandfather was one of the first cameleers to come out in the late 1800s to Australia; he was brought out here to work the camel trains and deliver transport for the telegraph line through to Alice Springs."
More than 150 years on, he feels great pride taking passengers through the heart of the country. “It’s a unique job and I feel honoured to be a driver of this legendary train."
This remote corner of Australia is one of the world’s last frontiers. This is how to see it properly.
Vast, rugged and deeply spiritual, the Kimberley coast in Australia’s North West feels a world away from everyday Australia – and there are countless ways to explore it. But if you want to reach ancient rock art, hidden gorges and lonely waterfalls, it has to be by boat. Whether you’re aboard a nimble expedition vessel or a luxury yacht with all the trimmings, exploring by the water brings exclusive experiences, shows unique views and makes travel easier than any other mode. And that’s just the beginning of Australia’s North West cruises.
Adventure starts where the road ends.
1. Discover Broome, and beyond
Explore your launchpad before you set sail: Broome. Here camels and their riders stride along the 22 kilometres of powdery Cable Beach at sunset. That’s just the start.
At Gantheaume Point, red pindan cliffs plunge into the turquoise sea, whose low tide uncovers fossilised dinosaur footprints. Broome’s pearling history runs deep. Japanese, Chinese, Malay and Aboriginal divers once worked these waters, and their legacy lives on in boutiques where South Sea pearls still shine.
If the moon’s right, you may catch the Staircase to the Moon over Roebuck Bay. Or simply kick back with a cold beverage and a film under the stars at Sun Pictures, screening since 1916.
Ride a camel along Cable Beach. (Image: Nick Dunn)
2. Unmatched access to The Kimberley
Once you’re onboard, expect a backstage pass to some of the most isolated places on Earth. No roads. No ports. No phone reception.
At Horizontal Falls/ Garaanngaddim, 10-metre tides surge through twin gorges like a natural waterpark ride that’ll make your palms sweat. Then there’s Montgomery Reef/ Yowjab: a giant living platform of coral and seagrass, where the sea pulls back to reveal waterfalls, sea turtles and ospreys.
Up north, King George Falls/ Oomari rage 80 metres down red cliffs. Zodiac boats often nudge in closer so you can feel the spray on your sun-warmed cheeks. You might even fly in to reach Mitchell Falls/ Punamii-unpuu, a four-tiered cascade where you can swim in freshwater pools above the drop.
Come spring, some itineraries veer west to Rowley Shoals: an atoll chain of white sand and reef walls. Then it’s up the winding Prince Regent River to King Cascade/ Maamboolbadda, tumbling over rock terraces, and into a Zodiac to view the Gwion Gwion rock art, whose slender, ochre-painted figures are older than the pyramids.
Get closer to the Kimberley than ever before.
3. Taste the Kimberley with onboard hospitality
You might spend your days clambering over slippery rocks or charging past waterfalls. But when you’re back on the water, it’s a different story. Meals are chef-prepared and regionally inspired: grilled barramundi, pearl meat sashimi, mango tarts, and bush tomato chutney. One night it’s barefoot beach barbecues with your shipmates; the next, alfresco dining on the ship.
Small expedition ships each have their own personality, but many carry just 12 to 36 guests, making being out on the water a whole other experience. You might sink into a spa on the foredeck or sip coffee in a lounge while watching crocodiles cruise by. It’s choose-your-own-relaxation, Kimberley style.
4. Expert-led excursions through the Kimberley
These voyages are led by people who know the Kimberley like the back of their sunburnt hand. Attenborough-esque naturalists might gently tap your shoulder to point out rare birds or tell the story beneath a slab of rock. Historians can explain exactly how that rusted World War II relic came to rest here.
If your ship has a helipad, you might chopper straight to a waterfall-fed swimming hole. If not, you’ll still be hopping ashore for that wet landing at a secret creek.
Then come the evenings: songlines shared by Traditional Owners under the stars, or astronomy sessions that link what’s overhead with what’s underfoot and what’s within.
Explore with naturalists and historians by your side.
5. Relax in luxurious lodgings
Just because you’re off-grid doesn’t mean you have to rough it. These Kimberley vessels are small in size, but mighty in luxury. True North’s ships come with their own helicopters and a no-sea-days policy, so you’re always in the thick of it. Try the luxurious offerings from Ocean Dream Charters for exploration in style. Kimberley Quest offers a fast boat for easy, off-ship adventures. On the larger end of the scale, Coral Expeditions has open-deck bars and curated wine cellars. And then there’s Ponant’s luxury yachts – sleek and incredibly stylish French sailing yachts.
See the Kimberley from sky to shore.
6. The adventure continues with pre- and post-cruise experiences
You’ve already come this far – so, why not go further? Broome makes it easy to ease in before you board, or wind down when your voyage ends, and there is no reason to stop there.
Head an hour and a half south to Eco Beach to stay off-grid and off the clock. Join a Yawuru guide for a mangrove walk or ocean forage. Dive even deeper into Broome’s pearling past at Willie Creek or Cygnet Bay, where divers and craftspeople still pull the seawater-slicked gems from the deep.
If you’re still craving adventure, it’s time to go further. Soar over the Buccaneer Archipelago, or detour inland with a 4WD trip along the Gibb River Road. Book a scenic flight over the Bungle Bungles. Or – because you never know when you’ll be back – do all three.
