The extraordinary experience of exploring Indigenous Australia

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Professor Marcia Langton is one of the country’s most prominent voices on First Nations people and Indigenous culture.

An anthropologist and geographer, Langton contributes to government and non-government policy, and is a strong voice on native title, art and culture, and women’s rights. She received the Officer of the Order of Australia award in 2020. In this extract from the second edition of her book Marcia Langton: Welcome to Country she discusses the extraordinary experience of exploring Indigenous Australia.

The Traditional Owners

Australia is alive with a long history of the Indigenous people, our culture and our presence. Nowhere else in the world can you see and experience the oldest living cultures of humankind. Experiencing Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander places, tourism adventures, art centres and galleries, guided walks and cultural events will help local and international travellers to find their way through our beautiful lands and waters and make a cultural connection with the people who know it best.

There are two distinctive Indigenous cultural groupings in Australia: Aboriginal people on the mainland and most islands; and Torres Strait Islanders, whose homelands are in the Torres Strait between the northern tip of Queensland and Papua New Guinea. People are believed to have settled on these islands about 20,000 years ago. Aboriginal people have been living on the mainland for at least 65,000 years; archaeologists have uncovered evidence of people living in Arnhem Land in the Northern Territory 65,000 years ago, with ongoing research in other parts of Australia indicating even longer periods.

 

The Indigenous footprint can be found across the Australian continent and its islands, but it is often invisible until it is pointed out. Once you see the evidence of Aboriginal life, a whole new world opens up. You begin to see the country around you differently. Keen to share their cultural riches, hundreds of Aboriginal people have found ways to invite tourists into their lives, even briefly, to enjoy the experience of being in Aboriginal Country with people who know it best: the Traditional Owners. With deep knowledge of the natural world, they are the ideal guides to show you the extraordinary range of environments across the country.

Professor Marcia Langton
Professor Marcia Langton is an anthropologist, geographer and one of the country’s most prominent voices on First Nations people and Indigenous culture.

Sharing Indigenous Australia through tourism

The opportunity for Indigenous Australians to share their experiences and knowledge with tourists opened up when land rights were recognised and Indigenous people became joint managers of large swathes of our Country. Now there are visitors’ centres, museums and festivals in even the most remote places, showcasing the fascinating history and cultures of Indigenous societies.

 

When you are travelling around Indigenous Australia, you will find yourself in extraordinary situations with extraordinary people, whether you are exploring by foot, vehicle, boat, horse or camel; in semi-arid areas such as the Central Desert or the Western Desert; savannah country across north Australia with its many dramatic rock outcrops, escarpments and gorges; or the wet rainforests where fast flowing rivers cascade over the mountain ranges; the forests; the Great Dividing Range in its many forms; on the beaches, islands and reefs; and in the cities and towns.

Dreamtime Dive & Snorkel day tour.
Join local Indigenous sea rangers on a Dreamtime Dive & Snorkel day tour on the Great Barrier Reef.

Indigenous people have established cultural and natural tourism businesses and opened up their Country for tourists with great energy, determination and a love of sharing the beauty of their culture and heritage. Also, the benefits of tourism to local Indigenous people are many. In large parts of Indigenous Australia, where there are few other economic opportunities, tourism businesses are a pathway for local families to enjoy the benefits of their unparalleled ancestral heritage.

 

With their own tourism projects, local people have the opportunity to work on their Country with their family members. They can also teach their own young people as well as tourists about their culture, history and heritage because Indigenous tourism preserves traditional knowledge and involves the younger generations in its continuation. There are surprises, too, for even the most knowledgeable Traditional Owners. While visiting remote parts of their old estates, where threatened populations were protected from introduced predators and land clearances, Traditional Owners have discovered new species of flora and fauna, and surviving pockets of species thought to be extinct.

 

The Aboriginal domain was reduced to segregated reserves during and after colonisation and the spread of British settlers and their land clearing for farming and grazing across the continent. The growth of Indigenous rights over the last fifty years has resulted in the return of land areas to the Traditional Owners and resumption of the Aboriginal traditions of management. Free once again to steward the land, Aboriginal people are protecting the biodiversity of Country with a range of strategies. Tourism is one of them, and often it is the Aboriginal rangers who take on the task of conserving the environment as well as working as guides for visitors.

Marcia Langton: Welcome to Country second edition
In the second edition of her book, Marcia Langton: Welcome to Country, Marcia offers a full range of Indigenous-owned or -operated tourism experiences across Australia.

We want to be understood by all Australians

Over the last century, Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people, like other Australians, have been attracted to the cities and towns from rural and remote areas. Today, the majority of Indigenous people live in towns and cities. The remainder mainly live in small towns, Aboriginal settlements and communities scattered across the country. Even in the largest cities, such as Sydney and Melbourne, Aboriginal people have retained their traditional ownership customs and established tourism ventures to guide visitors across their lands and waters and to understand their culture and history.

 

Many Australians believe that the only ‘real’ Aboriginal people live in the remote deserts. This is a view based on two centuries of racist ideas that were wrong and should have no place in modern Australia. The official population of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people will reach one million in the next decade. The Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples want their stories, cultures and history to be understood by all Australians, as well as visitors from overseas, and to be respected. When we see visitors learn about and show respect towards our cultures, histories and arts, a connection is made. This is empowering for our young people.

 

By building the self-esteem of younger generations of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people through culture, they understand how to survive the racism and discrimination – and importantly refuse to accept the ugly stereotypes – finding their identities, self-worth and futures in our cultural traditions.

 

We want an understanding of our peoples based in facts, not myths, and to enjoy all the opportunities that Australia offers to other Australians. Offering the experience of visiting our lands, our Countries and sharing our cultures with visitors is one way of overcoming the many misperceptions about us. Learning about the world’s oldest continuous living cultures will help all who come to respect our Country and to learn about our achievements.

The knowledge gained from living on Country

Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples maintain knowledge traditions with their own philosophies and epistemologies that originated in ancient Australia, tens of thousands of years ago. Many of these knowledge traditions continue today. They have been transmitted from generation to generation by knowledgeable people and taught throughout each person’s lifetime through experience living on Country, learning about the world, the sacred origins of people and traditional estates, their responsibilities for management of the environment, fauna, flora and to the people of the land, and providing for the material needs of their families.

 

The First Australians conveyed understandings of human nature and the natural world, environmental practices and traditions, medicine and healing, and much more, through their teaching systems and practices, sacred narratives, such as song series or songlines, visual designs, rituals and ceremonies, storytelling and in knowledge used regularly in rich but subtle economic lifeways. These lifeways are both highly localised and also spread regionally according to customs.

 

For over 200 years, Indigenous Australians have hosted and guided scientists and scientific expeditions seeking to understand the environments, flora, fauna and climate of this continent, as well as the cultures of the Indigenous people themselves. This has resulted in a vast literature of Australian life, but until recently much of it was read only by the experts. A growing number of writers, both Indigenous and other Australians, are now publishing more accessible books to show the wonders of this rich heritage to the world, drawing on the literature, films, audio-visual materials and, increasingly, digital objects about Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people and our determination to succeed in keeping our cultures alive and sharing the histories of what happened in Australia in the past.

Pink and white blossoms and buds of the Australian native Corymbia Fairy Floss
For over 200 years, Indigenous Australians have hosted and guided scientists seeking to understand the environments.

Our greatest success has been to preserve languages, Indigenous knowledge and land management traditions, and artistic, musical and performance traditions by insisting that we have a right to do so. Now, there is much to share, whereas once few Australians had access to our Country. Our cultures and our own reckoning with history.

Climate change and learning how to respect Country

Most important of all, as all of us face the challenges of climate change and biodiversity loss, learning how to respect Country and to keep our flora, fauna and other species flourishing is best learnt from the stewards of the places you will be introduced to here. They are descendants of the first people to come here at least sixty-five millennia ago.

Red Kangaroo, macropus rufus, Australia, Group running
Our First People know how best to keep our flora, fauna and other species flourishing.

The Aboriginal history of continuous occupation of this continent over more than sixty-five millennia represents a fifth of the total of human history and the evidence of it should be regarded as a world cultural and scientific treasure. Scientists, ecologists and historians are increasingly recognising this and adding to our knowledge. As researchers and scientists come to terms with these impacts, they have been forced to ask the question, ‘What do Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people know about the places they have inhabited for very long periods and the life forms that they have co-habited with during this unimaginably long period of time?’

 

The changes to our environments that colonisation and expanding populations and urbanisation have caused cannot be sustained without further extinctions of species and loss of environments and their ability to sustain us. Learning how Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people created and managed our environments and biodiversity will inspire you to seek greater care of the natural world we inherited from the ancients and preserve it for the future generations of humanity.

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The perfect mid-week reset an hour from Melbourne

Winding down in the Yarra Valley, where ‘work from home’ becomes ‘work from wine country’.

Steam from my morning coffee curls gently into the cool valley air, mist-veiled vineyards stretch out in neat rows below me. Magpies warble from trees, and the morning’s quiet carries the soft bleating of lambs from a nearby paddock. Midweek in the Yarra Valley has its own rhythm. It’s slower, quieter, with more empty tables at cafes and cellar doors, and walking trails I can claim all to myself. It’s as if the entire region takes a deep breath once the weekend crowd leaves.

walking trails in the Yarra Valley
You’ll find walking trails are less crowded during the week. (Image: Visit Victoria)

I haven’t come here for a holiday, but to do a little work somewhere other than my home office, where I spend too much time hunched over my desk. Deadlines still loom, meetings still happen, but with flexible work evolving from ‘work from home’ to ‘work from anywhere’, I’m swapping the view of my front yard to the vineyards.

A quiet afternoon at Yarra Valley Dairy

holding a glass of wine at Yarra Valley Dairy
Wine time at Yarra Valley Dairy, where you can enjoy a toastie or bagel in the cafe. (Image: Visit Victoria)

With the Yarra Valley just over an hour from the CBD, many Melburnians could drive here in their lunch break. I arrive late in the afternoon and am delighted to discover the Yarra Valley Dairy still open. On weekends, I’ve seen queues spilling out the door, but today there’s only one other couple inside. There’s no need to rush to secure a table; instead I browse the little store, shelves stacked with chutneys, spices, artisan biscuits and gorgeous crockery that would look right at home in my kitchen. It’s hard not to buy the lot.

a cheese tasting plate atYarra Valley Dairy
A cheese tasting plate at Yarra Valley Dairy.

I order a coffee and a small cheese platter, though the dairy has a full menu, and choose a wooden table with bentwood chairs by a wide window. The space feels part farm shed, part cosy café: corrugated iron ceiling, walls painted in muted tones and rustic furniture.

Outside, cows meander toward milking sheds. If pressed for time, there’s the option of quick cheese tastings – four samples for five dollars in five minutes – but today, I’m in no rush. I sip slowly, watching a grey sky settle over the paddock. Less than an hour ago I was hunched over my home-office desk, and now my racing mind has slowed to match the valley’s pace.

Checking in for vineyard views at Balgownie Estate

Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate
Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate has views across the vines.

As my car rolls to a stop at Balgownie Estate , I’m quietly excited, and curious to see if my plan to work and play comes off. I’ve chosen a suite with a spacious living area and a separate bedroom so I can keep work away from a good night’s sleep. I could have booked a cosy cottage, complete with open fireplace, a comfy couch and a kettle for endless cups of tea, but as I am still here to get some work done, I opt for a place that takes care of everything. Dinner is served in Restaurant 1309, as is breakfast.

oysters at Restaurant 1309, Balgownie Estate
Oysters pair perfectly with a crisp white at Restaurant 1309.

On my first evening, instead of the usual walk about my neighbourhood, I stroll through the estate at an unhurried pace. There’s no need to rush – someone else is preparing my dinner after all. The walking trails offer beautiful sunsets, and it seems mobs of kangaroos enjoy the view, too. Many appear, grazing lazily on the hillside.

I wake to the call of birds and, after breakfast, with the mist still lingering over the vineyards, I watch two hot-air balloons silently drift above clouds. Perched on a hill, Balgownie Estate sits above the mist, leaving the valley below veiled white.

kangaroos in Yarra Valley
Spotting the locals on an evening walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Exploring the Yarra Valley on two wheels

the Yarra Valley vineyards
Swap your home office for a view of the vineyards. (Image: Visit Victoria/Cormac Hanrahan)

Perhaps because the Yarra Valley is relatively close to where I live, I’ve never considered exploring the area any way other than by car or on foot. And with a fear of heights, a hot-air balloon is firmly off the table. But when I discover I can hop on two wheels from the estate and cycle into Yarra Glen, I quickly realise it’s the perfect way to step away from my laptop and experience a different side of the region.

COG Bike offers pedal-assist e-bikes, and while the bike trail and paths into town aren’t particularly hilly, having an extra bit of ‘oomph’ means I can soak up the surroundings. Those lambs I heard calling early in the morning? I now find them at the paddock fence, sniffing my hands, perhaps hoping for food. Cows idle nearby, and at a fork in the bike path I turn left toward town.

It’s still morning, and the perfect time for a coffee break at The Vallie Store. If it were the afternoon, I’d likely turn right, in the direction of four wineries with cellar doors. The ride is about 15 kilometres return, but don’t let that put you off. Staying off the highway, the route takes you along quiet backroads where you catch glimpses of local life – farmers on tractors, weathered sheds, rows of vines and the kind of peaceful countryside you don’t see from the main road.

A detour to the Dandenong Ranges

legs hanging over the sides of the train, Puffing Billy Railway
The iconic Puffing Billy runs every day except Christmas Day.

The beauty of basing myself in the Yarra Valley is how close everything feels. In barely half an hour I’m in the Dandenong Ranges, swapping vineyards for towering mountain ash and fern-filled gullies. The small villages of Olinda and Sassafras burst with cosy teahouses, antique stores and boutiques selling clothing and handmade body care items.

I’m drawn to RJ Hamer Arboretum – Latin for ‘a place for trees’. Having grown up among tall trees, I’ve always taken comfort in their presence, so this visit feels like a return of sorts. A stroll along the trails offers a choice: wide open views across patchwork paddocks below, or shaded paths that lead you deeper into the quiet hush of the peaceful forest.

The following day, I settle into a quiet corner on the balcony of Paradise Valley Hotel in Clematis and soon hear Puffing Billy’s whistle and steady chuff as the steam train climbs towards town. Puffing Billy is one of Australia’s most beloved steam trains, running through the Dandenong Ranges on a narrow-gauge track. It’s famous for its open carriages where passengers can sit with their legs hanging over the sides as the train chugs through the forest. This is the perfect spot to wave to those on the train.

After my midweek break, I find my inbox still full and my to-do list not in the least shrunken, just shifted from one task to another. But I return to my home office feeling lighter, clearer and with a smug satisfaction I’d stolen back a little time for myself. A midweek wind-down made all the difference.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Balgownie Estate offers everything from cellar door tastings to spa treatments and fine dining – all without leaving the property.

Playing there

the TarraWarra Museum of Art, Yarra Valley
Visit the TarraWarra Museum of Art. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Wander through Alowyn Gardens, including a stunning wisteria tunnel, then explore the collection of contemporary artworks at TarraWarra Museum of Art . Cycle the Yarra Valley with COG Bike to visit local wineries and cellar doors.

Eating and drinking there

Olinda Tea House offers an Asian-inspired high tea. Paradise Valley Hotel, Clematis has classic pub fare, while the iconic Yering Station offers wine tastings and a restaurant with seasonal dishes.

seasonal dishes at the restaurant inside Yering Station
The restaurant at Yering Station showcases the best produce of the Yarra Valley. (Image: Visit Victoria)