Single Minded – Travel ideas for the single traveller

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If you want to travel footloose and fancy free, and wouldn’t mind meeting other people travelling footloose and fancy freer, David Whitley done the research for you. The rest is in your hands . . .

Party then relax in Byron Bay

The local council in Byron Bay is probably the most fiercely protectionist in the country, banning pretty much any development as they try to stop a mass migration to Australia’s most easterly town. In fact, it’s a wonder that colour TV was begrudgingly allowed to slip through the net.

 

Despite all efforts though, Byron is a closet party town. It’s far less in-your-face than the Gold Coast, but the likes of Cheeky Monkey’s (115 Jonson Street, [02] 6685 5886), Cocomangas (32 Jonson Street, [02] 6685 8493) and La La Land (6 Lawson Street, [02] 6680 7070) are always full of people drinking and dancing. Often on tables.

 

If you’re after somewhere for a blow-out with a group of mates, but without being swathed in neon, there are few better places. Paradoxically, Byron is also very chilled out. Hippies roam the town like stray dogs telling people they’re beautiful, and the beaches are fabulous. For those considering heading up alone, it’s also a major stop-off on the backpacker circuit, which means that at any one time there’ll be thousands of people travelling independently who are fairly open to meeting someone new.

Take the ultimate road trip across the Nullarbor

The advantage of travelling without a family or partner in tow is that you can take on the areas of the country that are as appetising to them as a pickled herring, custard and chilli powder sandwich. The Nullarbor Plain, which covers much of the way from Port Augusta in South Australia to Perth in WA, is definitely one of those places. To some it’s awesome, mind-stretching, peaceful solitude; to others it’s abject purgatorial tedium. Either way it’s one of the ultimate road trips, whether as a bonding experience with whomever you can trick into coming along, or as a solo excursion to clear the head.

 

There are two routes available: the more scenic is along the south coast, where there are a fair few coastal towns to stop at; the more adventurous is straight through the plain, where it’s just spinifex and the occasional roadhouse until you get to the frontier WA mining town of Kalgoorlie.

 

One option is the Indian Pacific train (13 21 47 or www.trainways.com.au), on which you’ll at least come into contact with other humans. It takes 38.5 hours from Adelaide to Perth and costs from $309. To get the real deal, though, you need to drive it – in which case you’ll need plenty of time, plenty of fuel, plenty of water and more than one CD. The Nullarbor is one place you do not want to get stranded, especially with The Eagles on a constant loop.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Join the masses in Sydney

While many of Sydney’s attractions are rather overrated for the single traveller, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better city over Christmas and New Year. For a start, it has become a focal point for travelling orphans from across the globe on Christmas Day. Overstretched surf rescue teams (hundreds had to be pulled from the sea on December 25, 2003) have seen alcohol bans brought in on Bondi, Coogee and Manly beaches, but a we’re-going-to-have-fun-family-or-no-family atmosphere still prevails. As for the New Year’s Eve festivities, you’ll probably be sharing the harbour with more than a million others, so it’s a case of picking your spot; many are family-orientated, but some are less so. Embarkation Park in Potts Point is an excellent example – it has great views, live music and you can bring alcohol in.

Head to the Red Centre

The major sting of travelling alone – especially on an extended trip – is paying double price for accommodation. For a ten-day trip from Melbourne to central Australia and back, the price can get prohibitively expensive unless you rope someone else into sharing a room. However, some companies do cater for the singles market, and as long as you’re prepared to share a twin room with a stranger of the same gender, you’ll be able to get underway without needing to bother the bank manager. Solo Traveller ([03] 9859 9521 or www.solotraveller.com.au ) is running a week-and-a-half’s jaunt to Uluru, taking in the likes of King’s Canyon, opal cutting in Coober Pedy, and wino heaven in the Barossa Valley on the way. It leaves on December 28 and costs $909pp.

Spend Christmas in Tasmania

If you’re looking for a more upmarket tour for single travellers, then Single Travel Connections ([08] 8293 6988 or www.singlestravel.com.au ) is running a nine-day trip to Tassie from Melbourne. With guaranteed single rooms, luxury transport and quality meals that could sink many a sturdy ship, this isn’t the adventurous, stripped-back option. However, it does include many of Tasmania’s highlights, including Lake St Clair National Park, the penguin colony at Bicheno and the world’s longest single-span chairlift at Cataract Gorge. It’s pricey at $3285, and it can certainly be done cheaper independently. However, company is guaranteed.

Go on a surf camp

At least 80 percent of people have an image of surfers as no-good lazy wasters, happy to spend their days frolicking around in the ocean at taxpayers’ expense. The other 20 percent have actually tried it and are either doing it or are deeply envious of those who can. A few days off from work during the festive period offers the perfect chance to join that minority – although the whole long-blond-hair, excessively-slow-drawl-and-thongs thing is strictly optional. Surfing lessons can be taken all over the country – try Surfing Australia ([02] 6674 9888 or www.surfingaustralia.com ) to find a local surf school. However, to make a proper holiday of it, get some serious practice in, meet new people and see some virtually untouched coastline at the same time, going to camp for a couple of days is far more satisfactory.

 

If you’re prepared to really get deep down and dirty with Mama Nature on the west coast, sleeping in a swag under the stars, try The Wedge Island Surf Company ([08] 9336 6773 or www.wedgeislandsurfco.com.au). Their two-day surfari to excellent beginners’ breaks 90 minutes north of Perth costs from $179. Another option is a five-day Sydney to Byron Bay (and back) surfing expedition. Waves Surf School (1800 851 101 or www.wavessurfschool.com.au ) does one for $479.

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Explore historic wine towns and sculpture trails on a 3-day self-guided Murray River cruise

    Ricky French Ricky French
    Slow down and find your rhythm on a Murray River journey through time and place. 

    Trust is a funny thing. It seems not that long ago that my mother was insisting on pouring the milk into my cereal bowl, because she didn’t trust me not to slosh it over the table, and yet here I am on the Murray River at Mildura in far north-west Victoria, being handed the keys to a very new and very expensive luxury houseboat. 

    After a crash course in how not to crash, I’m at the wheel of the good ship Elevate – pride of the All Seasons fleet – guiding her upstream past red-ochre cliffs as pelicans glide above the rippled river and kookaburras call from reedy banks. There’s a brief moment of breath-holding while I negotiate a hairpin turn around a jagged reef of skeletal, submerged gum trees, before a cheer rings out and calm descends as the timeless river unfurls in front of us.    

    Murray River
    The Murray River winding through Yarrawonga. (Image: Rob Blackburn)

    Setting sail from Mildura 

    Murray River birds
    Home to a large number of bird species, including pelicans. (Image: The Precint Studios)

    A journey along the Murray River is never less than magical, and launching from Mildura makes perfect sense. Up here the river is wide and largely empty, giving novice skippers like myself the confidence to nudge the 60-tonne houseboat up to the riverbank where we tie up for the night, without fear of shattering the glass elevator (the boat is fully wheelchair accessible) or spilling our Champagne.  

    My friends and I spend three days on the water, swimming and fishing, sitting around campfires onshore at night, and basking in air so warm you’d swear you were in the tropics. The simplicity of river life reveals an interesting dichotomy: we feel disconnected from the world but at the same time connected to Country, privileged to be part of something so ancient and special.  

    Stop one: Echuca  

    19th-century paddlesteamers
    A historic 19th-century paddlesteamer cruises along the Murray River. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    The six-hour drive from Melbourne to Mildura (or four hours and 20 minutes from Adelaide) is more than worth it, but you don’t have to travel that far to find fun on the river. Once Australia’s largest inland port, Echuca is the closest point on the Murray to Melbourne (two hours 45 minutes), and you’ll still find a plethora of paddlesteamers tethered to the historic timber wharf, a throwback to the thriving river trade days of the 19th century. The PS Adelaide, built in 1866 and the oldest wooden-hulled paddlesteamer operating in the world, departs daily for one-hour cruises, while a brand-new paddlesteamer, the PS Australian Star , is launching luxury seven-night voyages in December through APT Touring.  

    The town is also a hot food and wine destination. St Anne’s Winery at the historic Port of Echuca precinct has an incredibly photogenic cellar door, set inside an old carriage builders’ workshop on the wharf and filled with huge, 3000-litre port barrels. The Mill, meanwhile, is a cosy winter spot to sample regional produce as an open fire warms the red-brick walls of this former flour mill.  

    Stop two: Barmah National Park 

    Barmah National Park
    Camping riverside in Barmah National Park, listed as a Ramsar site for its significant wetland values. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

    Just half-an-hour upstream, Barmah National Park is flourishing, its river red gum landscape (the largest in the world) rebounding magnificently after the recent removal of more than 700 feral horses. The internationally significant Ramsar-listed wetland sits in the heart of Yorta Yorta Country, with Traditional Owners managing the environment in close partnership with Parks Victoria. Walkways weave through the forest, crossing creeks lined with rare or threatened plants, passing remnants of Yorta Yorta oven mounds and numerous scar trees, where the bark was removed to build canoes, containers or shields.  

    The Dharnya Centre (open weekdays until 3pm) is the cultural hub for the Yorta Yorta. Visitors can learn about the ecological significance of the Barmah Lakes on a 90-minute river cruise, led by a First Nations guide, or take a one-hour, guided cultural walking tour along the Yamyabuc Trail.  

    Stop three: Cobram 

    Yarrawonga MulwalaGolf Club Resort
    Yarrawonga Mulwala Golf Club Resort. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Continue east to Cobram to find the southern hemisphere’s largest inland beach. Swarming with sun-seekers in summer, the white sand of Thompson’s Beach is shaded by majestic river red gums and dotted with hundreds of beach umbrellas, as beachgoers launch all manner of water craft and set up stumps for beach cricket. But the beach is at its most captivating at sunset, when the crowds thin out, the glassy river mirrors the purple sky, and the canopies of the gum trees glow fiery orange. 

    The region is also home to some fine resorts and indulgent retreats. Yarrawonga Mulwala Golf Club Resort has two riverside championship golf courses, luxury apartments and self-contained villas. While not strictly on the Murray, the historic wine town of Rutherglen is rife with boutique (and unique) accommodation, including an exquisitely renovated red-brick tower in a French provincial-style castle at Mount Ophir Estate. Fans of fortified wines can unravel the mystery of Rutherglen’s ‘Muscat Mile’, meeting the vignerons and master-blenders whose artistry has put the town on the global map for this rich and complex wine style.  

    Stop four: Albury-Wodonga 

    First Nations YindyamarraSculpture Walk
    First Nations Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk is part of the Wagirra Trail. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

    Follow the river far enough upstream and you’ll arrive at the twin border cities of Albury-Wodonga. The Hume Highway thunders through, but serenity can be found along the five-kilometre Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk – part of the Wagirra Trail that meanders through river wetlands just west of Albury in Wiradjuri country. Fifteen sculptures by local First Nations artists line the trail, conveying stories of reconciliation, enduring connection to culture, local Milawa lore and traditional practices. It feels a long way from Mildura, and it is, but the pelicans and kookaburras remind us that it’s the same river, the great conduit that connects our country. 

    A traveller’s checklist  

    Staying there

    New Mildura motel Kar-rama
    New Mildura motel Kar-rama. (Image: Iain Bond Photo)

    Kar-Rama is a brand-new boutique, retro-styled motel in Mildura, with a butterfly-shaped pool and a tropical, Palm Springs vibe. Echuca Holiday Homes has a range of high-end accommodation options, both on the riverfront and in town. 

    Playing there

    BruceMunro’s Trail of Lights in Mildura
    Bruce Munro’s Trail of Lights in Mildura. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

    Artist Bruce Munro’s Trail of Lights installation, comprising more than 12,000 illuminated ‘fireflies’, is currently lighting up Mildura’s Lock Island in the middle of the Murray. Murray Art Museum Albury (MAMA) is a hub for contemporary art, with a rotating roster of exhibitions, and is a major outlet for young and First Nations artists. 

    Eating there

    Mildura’s diverse demographic means it’s a fantastic place to eat. Andy’s Kitchen is a local favourite, serving up delicious pan-Asian dishes and creative cocktails in a Balinese-style garden setting. Call in to Spoons Riverside in Swan Hill to enjoy locally sourced, seasonal produce in a tranquil setting overlooking the river.