Top chefs are abandoning their fine dining posts to give fast food a much-needed makeover. Eloise Basuki takes a bite out of this delicious new trend.
Fast food is growing up. While a late-night cheeseburger and fries still won’t tick any nutritional boxes, the ingredients have taken a turn for the much-better, thanks to some highly acclaimed chefs now flipping them.
With five hats combined from his growing group of award-winning Australian restaurants, Rockpool and Spice Temple, Neil Perry took a leap of faith from the fine-dining scene to open last year’s new venture Burger Project in World Square, Sydney.
Sticking to his ‘fast food, slow food values’ ethos, the idea was to create a burger for the people, making a version of the high-quality Rockpool wagyu burger ($24) that leaves less of a dent in your pocket (the classic Burger Project burger sells for $8.90).
“We’re delivering fast food using the best ingredients, made and served by qualified staff, in an environment that’s well-designed and inspiring," says Perry. “We’re only as good as our suppliers and they play a very important role in our success."
It’s this commitment to using such high-quality ingredients (Cape Grim grass-fed beef burgers, free-range chicken, locally grown vegetables and house-made ingredients) that gives Burger Project such far-reaching appeal.
“It’s a real mix, we have Rockpool Group regulars who pop into Burger Project for lunch on the run, and we also see a cross-section of corporate customers from the nearby business towers, families and the youth market. Everyone who appreciates a good burger, really," he says.
And it’s not just burgers that fine-dining chefs are grilling, Ben Greeno, Noma alumni and former executive chef at Sydney’s Momofuku Seiōbo, has added a grab-and-go rotisserie chicken shop to his new venue, The Paddington, while Maha head chef and owner, Shane Delia, opened his Melbourne kebab shop, Biggie Smalls Kbabs, last year.
“It’s a different experience at Biggie than at Maha, but it still has to tick the same boxes that Maha does," says Delia.
While New York chef David Chang has said there’s a growing need for all chefs to rethink ‘fast food’ to offset the inefficiency of high-end restaurants, Delia doesn’t agree.
“Money isn’t my motivator. In my opinion, when the motivation and end goal is driven purely by the bottom line, you’ve already lost," he says.
For Delia, Biggie Smalls is a chance for him to show his personality and have a little fun.
“At Biggie I’m in a tee and flat-brim cap, and at Maha I’m in my chef whites. I’m the same person, same chef and offer the same level of service to my customers wherever I am. With Biggie I’m being a little more selfish. It’s a place I wanted to create for me."
Feast your way through Sun Country on the Murray – a beautiful and bountiful region in northern Victoria with gourmet delights galore.
Nestled on the lands of the Yorta Yorta People along the mighty Murray River, Sun Country is a truly extraordinary place. The northern Victorian enclave is a tapestry of meandering waterways, ancient forests, sandy beaches, enchanting country towns and an easy way of life.
Beyond its landscapes and bucolic charm, Sun Country on the Murray is a culinary paradise: think farm-fresh produce, family-run wineries and no shortage of places to feast.
If you’re a serious foodie or simply epicurious, here’s your ultimate guide to a gourmand Murray River getaway.
The Murray Farm Gate Trail
The self-guided Murray Gate Farm Trail lets you sample the area’s best produce while immersing yourself in the lush Goulburn and Murray Valleys. The trail has something to suit every palate and pace, but there are a few notable highlights.
1. Rich Glen
Stock up at Rich Glen. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)
Rich Glen is renowned for its award-winning olive oils. Everything is grown and created on the family farm in Yarrawonga, the results of which you can visit at Rich Glen Provedore – a treasure trove of gourmet foods, including that signature olive oil. Or explore Rich Glen Skin & Beauty, which stocks lush handmade skincare and wellness products.
2. How Now Dairy
A charming micro-farm producing ethical dairy, How Now Dairy , lets its baby calves remain with their mothers and its cows roam on rolling pesticide-free pastures. Try a selection of cheeses that do good and taste good, including a fantastic punchy blue, and velvety milk with a thick, creamy top.
3. Cactus Country
Stop into Cactus Country. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)
Cactus Country is a 12-acre stretch of desert-like garden containing cacti of all shapes, sizes and colours. Naturally, it makes the most of its bounty at the on-site bar and restaurant, with a cactus-infused dessert menu alongside a vibrant line-up of Mexican snacks and mains.
4. The Olde Creamery
The Olde Creamery is a local icon, a former hobby farm that has flourished into a thriving purveyor of flowers and foods. The elderflower cordial and bramble gin and tonic jam are must-tries, and make for tasty mementoes of your trip.
Wineries, breweries and distilleries
The region’s sunny climate and rich soils make it a prime place for viticulture. If wine isn’t your thing, you’ll also find boutique breweries and distilleries producing top-notch beers and spirits.
1. Squires Winery
Pop in for a tasting. (Image: Visit Victoria)
With its idyllic positioning on the Ovens River, Squires Winery is a lovely setting for a long, leisurely lunch or tasting. Enjoy a riverside sip of prosecco, rosé or cab sauv, complemented by seasonal bites and a backdrop of towering gum trees.
2. Cape Horn Vineyard
Cape Horn is one of the region’s most established vineyards. Its sparkling durif/shiraz is a crowd favourite and well worth trying on your foodie tour, especially if it’s served with one of the winery’s delicious wood-fired pizzas.
3. Byramine Homestead & Brewery
Enjoy a tipple at this historic homestead.
A top pick among beer, cider and history enthusiasts, Byramine serves a rotation of brews made on-site in the historic homestead. Wander through the venue and learn about its colonial past before sitting down to a freshly made Ploughman’s and cold local ale.
4. Monichino Wines
Monichino is a slice of la dolce vita in northern Victoria, producing classic Italian varietals like pinot grigio and aromatica. Drop by for a tasting at the cellar door (open weekends or by appointment) and explore everything from crisp whites to robust fortified wines, or pack a picnic and savour your glass in the picturesque gardens.
5. Corowa Distilling Co
Sit down to a hearty lunch. (Image: Visit Victoria)
Corowa Distilling Co crafts an incredible variety of single-malt and blended whiskies, and is a beloved spot among locals and visitors alike. Stop in for a tasting flight in the whisky room, or a hearty breakfast or lunch paired with a wee dram.
Farm-to-table dining
If you’ve got the time to linger over a gourmet spread, Sun Country on the Murray has an abundance of outstanding restaurants and cafes.
1. O’Reilly’s Food and Wine
O’Reilly’s feels much like stepping into a good friend’s home, albeit with a refined twist. The menu changes weekly and rotates through a selection of comforting yet elevated dishes – think lamb cottage pie, French-style moussaka, a perennially popular open steak sandwich and cakes that change flavours weekly.
2. Stock and Barrel
Soak in views of Lake Mulwala. (Image: Visit Victoria)
Tucked inside The Sebel Yarrawonga hotel, overlooking sparkling Lake Mulwala, Stock and Barrel does pub classics with a Sun Country spin. Order a perfectly seared steak and triple-cooked potatoes alongside a freshly poured pint, or try a regional highlight: local produce features abundantly across Stock and Barrel’s dishes.
3. The Bend
With spacious decks and panoramic views of the Murray, The Bend is ideal for a sun-soaked long lunch. Order a round of moreish share plates (like baja fish tacos and a warm-from-the-oven brioche loaf stuffed with cream cheese and herbs) or a signature cocktail and indulgent main – we can’t go past the slow-braised wagyu brisket.
4. Blacksmith Provedore
Taste Blacksmith Provedore’s delicious pizzas. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)
If you’re after a slick yet relaxed dining destination, head to Blacksmith Provedore . Perched right next to Lake Mulwala, the venue is airy and elegant, with a minimalist-chic design. The pizzas are seriously good too, made with 72-hour fermented dough and toppings sourced from Italy’s finest producers.
5. Broken Willow
As soon as you enter Broken Willow ’s front doors, you’re greeted with genuine hospitality and a classic bistro menu that has something for everyone: succulent grilled meats, parmas and schnitzels, juicy burgers, and international dishes ranging from weekly curry and stir-fry specials to zippy banh mi.
While you’re there
Discover plenty to do between meals. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)
Got a few hours to spare? Make the most of your trip by exploring the natural wonders and rich cultural heritage of your riverside surroundings.
Barmah National Park is a sanctuary of walks through majestic river red gums and serene wetlands. Here, a seat on board a Kingfisher River Cruise offers a different Murray experience, letting you see the vast river from the perspective of the Yorta Yorta peoples.
If you’re a watersport enthusiast, Lake Mulwala in Yarrawonga is a favourite for canoeing, cruising, fishing, kayaking and water skiing. While the silo murals at Katamatite, St James, Tungamah and more recently Waaia are essential stops in Victoria’s famed Silo Art Trail .
In Cobram Barooga, make sure to visit Thompson’s Beach, the largest inland beach in the southern hemisphere. Nearby, the Bullanginya Dreaming project is an award-winning 1.8km immersive art experience that immerses you in light and sound to tell a rich story of country, culture and connection.
