The Australian Alps Walking Track

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The fourth of Australian Traveller’s epic bushwalks, the Australian Alps Walking Track is also the highest.

Foremost is the walk from Mt Howitt to the Viking (four days), revealing some of the most rugged and spectacular areas in the High Country. The type of terrain is betrayed by some of the feature names: Mt Buggery, Mt Despair, Horrible Gap and the Terrible Hollow.

 

The mountain lover’s long-distance trail, the Australian Alps Walking Track (AAWT) rolls up, over and through the High Country between Walhalla, in Victoria’s Gippsland region, and Canberra’s edge.

 

Though it’s the closest of the trails to Sydney and Melbourne, it’s also conversely the most isolated and demanding, requiring detailed preparation and up to six weeks in changeable mountain conditions.

 

Throughout its 680km length, the AAWT never once passes through a town – the nearest thing it sees to a settlement is the Mt Hotham resort (it also passes within a few klicks of Thredbo).

 

For this reason it’s a logistical exercise as much as a physical one, requiring a number of food drops (usually hidden in the bush) to be organised ahead of your departure.

 

First mooted as a walking trail in the late 1960s, the original plan was for a Victorian track only, beginning in Walhalla and ending at Tom Groggin on the NSW border.

 

By 1976 this trail was complete, and it wasn’t until the 1990s that the extension through NSW and into the ACT was added.

 

Though it’s unquestionably spectacular, the AAWT is also an imperfect trail, running close to some of the country’s outstanding peaks, including Mts Feathertop, Bogong, Kosciuszko, Townsend and Tate, but not over them.

 

Fortunately, it’s a simple task to remedy this. A day can be spent walking along Razorback Ridge from Hotham to Feathertop, while Cleve Cole Hut, on the AAWT, is little more than an hour’s walk from Bogong.

 

At Rawson Pass, beneath Kosciuszko, the AAWT makes an unusual dogleg, turning away from the peaks and following the sealed Charlotte Pass road back to Smiggin Holes.

 

Far better is to continue along the Main Range from Rawson Pass, climbing over Australia’s highest peaks and rejoining the AAWT at Whites River Hut.

 

Trail highlights are many, though two or three stages stand out.

 

Foremost is the walk from Mt Howitt to the Viking (four days), revealing some of the most rugged and spectacular areas in the High Country. The type of terrain is betrayed by some of the feature names: Mt Buggery, Mt Despair, Horrible Gap and the Terrible Hollow.

 

Begin near Macalister Springs, off Howitt Road, joining the AAWT just below Mt Howitt and inching across the narrow Crosscut Saw ridge to Mt Speculation.

 

After climbing to the summit of Mt Despair the terrain becomes even more difficult, with the track unmarked and difficult to follow.

 

Atop the Viking, the AAWT turns east towards Barry Saddle, but you can also complete a circuit back to Mt Howitt by descending to the Wonnangatta River and back up the Wonnangatta Spur.

 

A second section of note is the 76km from Hotham across the Bogong High Plain and Mt Wills to the Omeo Hwy, following snow poles much of the way.

 

It represents about five days in the company of Victoria’s mountain royalty: great views of Feathertop, a climb to Mt Nelse, a detour to Bogong and, finally, views back to the high plain from Mt Wills.

 

This section also provides a great showcase of mountain cattlemen huts, like Wallace’s Hut on the Bogong High Plain (top).

 

For a break from mountains, consider the 50km section from the old gold-mining settlement of Kiandra through the Cooleman area of northern Kosciuszko NP.

 

You’ll have the opportunity to see the Murrumbidgee River in its mountain-stream infancy before climbing over Gurrangorambla Range to one of the High Country’s most unusual features: the porous karst of the Cooleman Plain.

 

This tussocky plain is hole-punched with caves, most notably at Blue Waterholes, where a series of springs pours to the surface.

 

Take a detour (and a torch) west along Cave Creek and you’ll find two of the more impressive caves, while the creek itself is most dramatic just downstream from Blue Waterholes, through the limestone Clarke Gorge to a series of waterfalls beyond.

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Your guide to slowing down in the Yarra Valley & Dandenong Ranges

There’s no better place to unwind than the Yarra Valley and Dandenong Ranges – a leafy and idyllic region shrouded in mist, fern-filled gullies and a peaceful atmosphere.

Wrapped in the crisp mountain air, ancient ferns and ethereally verdant landscapes of the Yarra Valley and Dandenong Ranges , you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re in another world (or at least another part of the planet).

But this gorgeous pocket is under an hour from Melbourne, a mix of top-notch food and wine, boutique stays and forested scenery that make for an easy weekend away or even a midweek escape. In fact, visiting during the week can offer a deeply relaxing experience, with fewer crowds and more space to linger.

If you’re keen to unwind, here’s how to spend your time in this idyllic neck of the woods.

Where to eat

Yarra Valley Dairy
Treat your taste buds to Yarra Valley Dairy. (Image: Visit Victoria)

From farm gates to cosy eateries, the Yarra Valley and Dandenong Ranges house a plethora of places to feast. Start your day with a leisurely brunch and coffee at Ripe . This local hangout combines warm hospitality and hearty cafe fare against a backdrop of the hills’ iconic tree-fern canopies. It’s also nestled in the heart of Sassafras, the quaint village that best captures the Dandenong Ranges’ old-world charm.

Next, take yourself on a gastronomic adventure. Visit Yarra Valley Dairy , a regional favourite doing handmade cheeses, or Cherry Hill Orchards , where in summer you can pick your own cherries and enjoy them in the farm’s picturesque grounds. Treat yourself to a tasting at one of the Yarra Valley’s renowned wineries to finish – Rochford , Re’em and De Bortoli are standout picks for a sample of the region’s signature drops.

By night, book a table at either Citrine in the mountain town of Olinda or restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate in the Yarra Valley. Both do elevated seasonal fare paired with excellent drinks.

And if you’re simply in the mood for a tipple, you’re spoiled for choice. The Alpine Hotel in riverside Warburton is a historic and character-filled spot pouring pints and locally made drinks, while Four Pillars is a must for gin lovers. The distillery’s award-winning spirits are famed nationwide, but here you can try them right from the source.

Things to do outdoors

two people walking through Dandenong Ranges National Park
Wander the Dandenong Ranges National Park.

A motley patchwork of misty rainforest, rugged bushscapes and beautifully tended gardens, the Yarra Valley and Dandenong Ranges are some of Melbourne’s most scenic pockets. No visit to the region would be complete without a wander through its lush surrounds, either by bike or on foot.

The Ngurrak Barring trail stretches 39 kilometres through the Dandenong Ranges, connecting the towns and fern-filled forests that make the hills so unique. Along the way, be immersed in thought-provoking art installations and cultural stories, sharing a different perspective of this ancient landscape.

While in the area, wander through Cloudehill Garden & Nursery and the Dandenong Ranges Botanic Gardens , situated in Olinda. The cooler climate, rich volcanic soil and consistent rainfall offer both gardens ideal conditions for vivid and vibrant flora.

Over in the Yarra Valley, the 40-kilometre Lilydale to Warburton Rail Trail is a flat and family-friendly path perfect for leisurely bike rides and longer walks. It takes you through vine-lined scenery and towns like Seville and Wandin. Biking enthusiasts should head to the Warburton Mountain Bike Destination, a network of 160 kilometres of trails that traverse through untamed terrain.

For a more laidback outing, Alowyn Gardens encompasses seven acres of themed gardens perfect for a meandering stroll. The nearly 100-metre-long wisteria archway that connects different garden zones is a highlight – especially in October, when the lilac blossoms are in spectacular bloom.

The arts and culture scene

TarraWarra Museum of Art
Take in the displays at TarraWarra Museum of Art. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Yarra Valley and the Dandenong Ranges are havens for arts and culture thanks to their inspiring landscapes and thriving creative community. Naturally, a slower escape should include a visit to some of the region’s best studios and galleries.

The TarraWarra Museum of Art in Healesville showcases modern and contemporary Australian art, with both a permanent collection and a rotating display of thoughtful exhibitions. The building and grounds are well worth exploring: a striking architectural landmark amid landscaped lawns and open-air sculptures overlooking the Yarra Valley.

Delve into the area’s rich history at the Yarra Ranges Regional Museum , a treasure trove of more than 13,000 unique pieces. See everything from Indigenous artefacts to archival photographs and historical objects that tell the region’s story.

On your way back to the city, stop by the leafy enclave of Eltham to discover Montsalvat . This five-acre artistic playground is Australia’s oldest continuous art community, combining galleries, Gothic-style buildings and expansive heritage gardens.

Stay at a local retreat

Re’em yarra valley accommodation
Re’em is an ideal pick for an indulgent stay.

No matter your style, and no matter your budget, you’ll find a suitable spot in the region to rest your head. If the weather is warm and the sky is clear, set up a tent at BIG4 Yarra Valley Park Lane Holiday Park or Pine Hill Cabin & Caravan Park. The former has secluded camping spots surrounded by tranquil bushland and local wildlife, along with glamping pods and cabins. The latter has powered and unpowered sites suitable for all kinds of campers, and is pet-friendly if you’re travelling with your four-legged friend.

Or, book yourself into the RACV Healesville Country Club & Resort – a sprawling retreat complete with stylish rooms and luxe amenities that invite you to unwind. Relax at the day spa, tee off at the 18-hole golf course, or recharge with a round of tennis or a few laps in the pool.

And if you’re after something truly indulgent, Re’em is an ideal pick. A boutique collection of just 16, the luxuriously appointed rooms feature plush linens, high-end amenities and oversized baths with panoramic views across the estate. A gourmet breakfast showcasing gorgeous local produce is also included.

Start planning your reset getaway at visityarravalley.com.au.