Unique coastal stays in Australia

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The allure of our coastline lies in its diversity – from the wild and the beautiful to the island paradisiacal – and in the many stunning spots to soak in the views from.

Here are our 10 favourite seaside stays that made it into positions 28 to 38 of our coveted list of 100 unique stays. Head here to read the full list and start planning your next escape.

28. Kittawa Lodge, King Island, Tas

Invariably rugged and beautiful, abundant in wildlife and laden with local produce, Tasmania’s islands enjoy an enviable reputation. One in particular, off the North West coast in the middle of Bass Strait, is increasingly becoming one of the hottest destinations around. King Island is a sliver of land on the doorstep of Melbourne (a 35-minute flight away), yet a whole world removed. And, since opening in late 2019, one luxury eco retreat has helped put it on the map. Run by sea-changers Aaron Suine and Nick Stead, Kittawa Lodge is a destination in itself. Its pair of off-grid, one-bedroom lodges are architecturally designed and sit ocean-facing on a secluded 40-hectare property. With itineraries tailored for you daily according to your interests – and mood that morning – it lets you key straight into the choose-your-own- adventure essence of King Island and will have you feeling like a local in no time.

Kittawa exterior
Ocean views are impossible to escape at Kittawa Lodge. (Image: Sammy Green Photography)

As well as a breadth of untouched natural beauty, you’ll find a strong community spirit, thriving art scene and renowned produce – from southern rock lobster, to dry-aged grass-fed beef, sumptuous lamb, local Pacific oysters and the famous King Island Dairy cheese. And, should you wish, you can experience much of this from the luxurious comfort of your lodge; local artworks adorn the walls, and panoramic views of the ever- inquisitive wallabies at the window and white-bellied sea eagles flying above can be enjoyed from a multitude of inviting spots. From the lounge, in front of the crackling fireplace, from your king-size bed or from the handmade concrete bath in your master suite, while sampling a range of premium Tasmanian wines, spirits and beers from your in-lodge bar. Here, Aaron and Nick’s top five ways to experience King Island.

Relax in the bathtub while enjoying the still scenery of King Island. (Image: Oscar Sloane)

Top five things to do on King Island

1. No trip to King Island is complete without a visit to King Island Dairy, where complimentary cheese tasting plates are available.

 

2. A southern expedition of the island will thrill the senses, taking in the breathtaking sights of Seal Rocks Reserve, including the Seal Rocks Boardwalk, the Calcified Forest and the Copperhead Walk, as well as the southernmost tip of the island, Stokes Point.

 

3. An expedition to the north of the island excites for its difference to the south, with the white sandy beaches of Martha Lavinia and Disappointment Bay, as well as the tallest lighthouse in the southern hemisphere, Cape Wickham Lighthouse. We also recommend a trip to Pennys Lagoon, a perched lake on the way to Martha Lavinia.

 

4. For the golfing enthusiasts, you are spoilt for choice, with some of the world’s best links golf courses: Cape Wickham Golf Links, Ocean Dunes Golf Course and the locally run King Island Golf Course.

 

5. Just breathe. Kittawa Lodge and King Island Invite guests to sit back and relax, and do as little or as much as you like. Yes, we can fill your days with amazing walks, experiences and sightseeing, but why not take the chance to finish that book, master chess or scrabble, paint a landscape, take a long bath or, as many of our guests do, contemplate and plan for the future?

Kittawa Lodge interior
The modern interior details of Kittawa Lodge. (Image: Adam Gibson)

29. Five Acres, Phillip Island, Vic

When I get swept away in fantasies of owning a pocket-sized hideaway in the country, Five Acres’ cabins are what I envisage. A rural retreat that feels light years from civilisation – but is, in fact, less than a 10-minute drive from the town of Cowes – it’s the kind of dreamy, design-led den that you could hole up in for days without developing the slightest thirst to leave.

Five Acres exterior
The beautifully modern and coastal architecture of Five Acres (Image: Marnie Hawson).

Small in dimension, yet big on thoughtful features, Five Acres’ three minimalist cabins gently persuade guests to go analogue. A slimline, standalone wood-burning fire takes centre stage in the lounge, already made up with kindling and newspaper, ready to be lit. A carefully curated selection of cookbooks, poetry paperbacks, tomes on sustainable living and independent magazines dot the cabin’s many nooks, and are all perfectly aligned with the pace of life here, like Grounded: A Companion for Slow Living and The Farm Community: Grow. Cook . Share. Connect. And with floor-to-ceiling windows that look squarely onto the property’s paddocks, replete with shaggy coated Highland cows and sheep scratching themselves on fence posts, a sliver of Western Port Bay on the horizon, who needs a TV anyway?

Five Acres fireplace
Escape by the sea at Five Acres. (Image: Marnie Hawson)

That’s not to say every trace of technology has been removed: USB ports sit next to each bedside, the one-wall kitchenette is full of Smeg appliances, the lime-washed bathroom features underfloor heating, there’s a Bang & Olufsen bluetooth speaker in the lounge, and a TV preloaded with Netflix is secreted smartly away on the kitchen wall. But on a bleak winter’s night we’re happily bathing in a sea of old-school entertainment. As we pore over the books under the weight of a chunky knit blanket, the fire crackles, the blustery sea wind puffs at the windows and doors, and ice tinkles in our glasses of G&T, made with gin from local Gippsland distillery Loch’s – just one of the thoughtful provisions that’s included in our stay. And, should the urge to eat gelato strike at an ungodly hour, fear not: there’s a whole tub from an independent island gelateria ready and waiting to go in the freezer; just use the direct deposit details given on the countertop, transfer $15, and dig in. Come breakfast, the spread in our pantry offers an equal serve of hygge: freshly ground coffee, gloriously coconutty homemade granola, natural yoghurt, Gippsland Jersey milk and butter, sourdough, jam made with rhubarb plucked from the working micro-farm’s garden.

Five Acres food
Spoil yourself with the delightful food at Five Acres. (Image: Marnie Hawson)

The grounds on which Five Acres sits are home to some 90 fruit and nut trees plus extensive veggie gardens. And in time, owners Katie and Rom Lamaro hope to use their five-acre (two-hectare) block to provide produce for the local community as well as their own family. Almost every part of their venture has been built from the ground up by the couple. Rom constructed the cabins with his brother Christian, who owns a building company. And even some of the furniture within them – such as the bed frame made from Tasmanian oak – was handcrafted by Rom himself. Doused in natural materials and featuring a riot of textures and angles, the cabin interiors look as if they were pages torn straight from the latest issue of Architectural Digest. Almost every conceivable surface is clad with beautiful blond wood.

Five Acres bath
Wash off the sea salt with a warm bath. (Image: Marnie Hawson)

A freestanding smoky grey concrete bathtub stands on the sheltered deck outside the bathroom’s sliding doors, hidden in plain sight behind gauzy sand-coloured linen curtains. And light pours in through the skylight cut into the roof over the rain shower head. There’s a toughness to the design and furnishings that reflects farm life, but an inviting cosiness, too. A destination that’s long been popular with young families, Phillip Island wears many eclectic hats. It also carries a legacy of nostalgic seaside getaway that skews a touch brash, rather than a chic weekender for Melburnians with a surfeit of disposable income. But Five Acres could be at the crest of a new wave that’s slowly washing ashore. Over the last five years, a handful of sea-changers just like Katie and Rom have set up shop on the island, opening a craft taphouse here, a third-wave coffee shop there, and an industrial-chic cafe or two. Phillip Island may not have the cachet of neighbouring Mornington or the Bellarine Peninsula, and perhaps it never will; but for some, its emerging alter ego will prove the perfect counterbalance. – Chloe Cann

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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30. Wilson Island, Great Barrier Reef, Qld

Wilson Island, positioned blissfully in the waters of the Great Barrier Reef, might just be the ultimate embodiment of all our castaway fantasies. The adults-only island can accommodate just 18 guests in its nine luxe Reef Safari Tents, which are set at the edge of the sands with water views forever. Ensuring the island stays idyllic, it is powered by solar and batteries, there’s a ‘no touch, no take’ policy when in the water, there are no single-use plastics, and organic and sustainable are used whenever possible. With no TV or phones and nowhere else to be, days here are measured out in eating, snorkelling, swinging in hammocks, sunset drinks and stargazing, all on repeat.

Wilson Island
Beach shack living at Wilson Island. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

31. Coastal Pods Wynyard, Tas

Do you ever think about where the materials of a building you’re staying in might have already been? No, me neither, until I booked myself into shipping container accommodation in Northern Tasmania and fell asleep wondering how many times this bedroom might have crossed Bass Strait. Wynyard is 150 kilometres north-west of Launceston on the Inglis River. The town is Tassie-famous for its annual tulip festival and has a relaxed feel with the promise of an idyllic coastal retirement, like some cold-climate Noosa.

Coastal Pods
The unique Coastal Pods on the Tasmanian coast. (Image: S. Group)

Cyndia Hilliger and Justin McErlain, who also own the waterfront motel next door, tell me they were inspired by the innovative shipping container architecture they saw in Christchurch as the city recovered from earthquakes. They purchased Containers of Hope plans from Benjamin Garcia Saxe – an award-winning Costa Rican architect dedicated to sustainable sourcing of local materials – and customised to suit. Now two freestanding self-contained accommodation pods, Port and Starboard, sit on the lawn beside the retro motel. Each pod comprises two upcycled shipping containers with decks, polished original plywood floors, spray foam insulation, double-glazing all round and extra soundproofing between bedrooms. The interiors are spacious and the repurposing artful.

Coastal Pods interior
The quirky coastal-inspired interior of the pods. (Image: Kevin O’Daly)

But what really floats my boat is that my Port Pod is rock-solid equal-access accommodation, with great attention given to the details of functionality and no compromise on aesthetics. As good-looking and well-appointed as Starboard, Port has a spa-like bathroom and moveable furniture. Beds can be raised, microwave lowered, equipment hired, whatever’s required. The yacht club, just along Wynyard’s flash new riverside boardwalk, runs a Sailability training program over the warmer months with equipment for people of all abilities. Every evening, vehicle access to the dock closes to the public and, as pod guests, we have this world of moored fishing boats and quiet river all to ourselves. I haven’t caught anything today to cook in the fire pit but luckily the nearby fish and chip shop is open until 7pm and The Wharf Hotel is close by. – Elspeth Callender

Coastal Pods location
The picturesque location of the Coastal Pods.

32. Kooljaman At Cape Leveque, The Kimberley, WA

The Kimberley has no shortage of eco-friendly wilderness camps, but for the beach-seeker, Indigenous-owned Kooljaman trumps them all. Tucked at the tip of Cape Leveque, 200 kilometres north of Broome, its location means I’m never far from a tantalising tract of shoreline. Each day, I have fun choosing the east or west. Laid-back vibes at the eastern beaches for swimming and snorkelling? Or fishing, walks and a dramatic sunset against the backdrop of pindan cliffs on the western beaches? A cute log cabin amid the trees; a surprisingly high-quality restaurant (for such a remote location); and tours with local Bardi Jawi guides have me staying for much longer than I intended. – Leah McLennan

Kooljaman sunrise
Wake up to a stunning Western Australia sunrise. (Image: Tourism Australia)

33. qualia, Hamilton Island, Qld

The Latin word ‘qualia’ has a mercurial translation that befits its namesake destination – the exact essence of which is hard to pin down. This luxury resort, situated on the northernmost part of Hamilton Island, wears its meaning of ‘a collection of deeper sensory experiences’ well.

qualia pavillion lounge
The ultimate luxurious coastal getaway awaits at qualia. (Image: Sharyn Cairns)

Since it opened in 2007, qualia has consistently been ranked among the world’s best resorts and is an exemplar of Australian laid-back luxury. It is recognised for its environmentally intuitive architecture, sympathetic landscaping, impeccable service, deeply tranquil day spa and exceptional food and drink offering (dining on a six-course degustation bursting with local flavours at Pebble Beach as the sun goes down is something you won’t forget in a hurry). And not to mention its dazzling location, surrounded by the Great Barrier Reef and with views across the impossible blues of the Coral Sea and Whitsundays.

qualia pool
Enjoy the pool all year round with Queensland’s tropical weather. (Image: Sharyn Cairns)

A stay here is worth it alone for the private plunge pool, complete with those aforementioned views, which you’ll find in a flawlessly designed Windward Pavilion: all understated decor, hardwood timber floors and floor-to-ceiling glass. Leeward Pavilions combine tropical bushland and sea views while the exclusive Beach House goes a notch further with 12-metre infinity pool and private guesthouse. Awarded as one of the most romantic destinations in the world, the island retreat makes for a luxurious launch pad for everyone from yachties to those drawn to exploring the Great Barrier Reef and the eucalyptus-scented trails that crisscross the island. While mornings might begin with sun salutations on the deck, it’s compulsory for afternoons to include a lychee martini cocktail by the pool. It all conspires to create a unique Australian hideaway.

Helicopter at qualia
See Hamilton Island from a different perspective with qualia’s private helicopter. (Image: Sharyn Cairns)

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34. Woody Island, Recherche Archipelago, WA

I’d heard the solar-powered safari tents on Woody Island had been given a spit and polish, but I wasn’t expecting such a dreamy transformation beneath the canvas. Now called ‘luxury retreat’ tents, each has been styled with textured bedspreads (on real beds), fluffy sheepskins strewn across comfy couches and pretty adornments like fairy-lit branches, circular mirrors and square ottomans. Facing Esperance in WA’s far south, the snake-free island is ribboned with hiking trails leading to secluded lookouts, wildlife havens, snorkel spots and granite boulders. Communal areas (shared bathrooms, drop loos, a mess style restaurant) are basic, with nature and tranquillity the focus. – Fleur Bainger

Woody Island tent
Woody Island tents are nestled between the bush and sea. (Image: Fleur Bainger)

35. Whale Song, Falmouth, Tas

It’s the sunrises and sunsets that get me the most. Not mere moments in each day but hour-long spectacles of sherbet skies and piercing golden orbs. Perched on a rocky parcel of Tasmania’s East Coast, the Whale Song shack is a design-lover’s bolthole that brims with curated curiosities, art, books, and the kind of bedding you want to slip into your suitcase.

Whale Song bedroom
The beautifully designed interior of Whale Song. (Image: Alix Mckenzie)

There are neighbours, but you wouldn’t know it. Until I return, I dream of G&Ts on the deck, candlelit baths in the outdoor tub, setting the needle down on another vinyl, and losing myself in the hypnotic dance of the ocean– an ever-present friend. – Celeste Mitchell

Whale Song exterior
The ocean is at your doorstep at Whale Song. (Image: Natasha Mulhall)

36. Tiwi Island Retreat, Tiwi Islands, NT

It’s only 20 minutes by air from Darwin, but you might as well be travelling to another country for all the remote, sybaritic promise offered by this sand-in-toes escape on the south-west coast of Bathurst Island– one of the Tiwis’ two main islands. There are swaying palm trees kissing soft white sand here, yes, but also a wild beauty complete with resident croc named Claudia.

 

Originally established as a barramundi fishing lodge, Tiwi Island Retreat’s bathroom facilities are shared and guestrooms compact. Yet, with stylish coastal-chic decor, crisp linens and views out onto the sparkling Timor Sea, what more do you need? You’re here to get off the beaten track and experience unique activities and culture in a pristine environment unlike anywhere else. Perhaps you’ll go mud crabbing or barra fishing in the creeks, eating your catch at the end of the day. Certainly you’ll spend time by the pool and linger over a sunset beach picnic stocked with cheese and champagne. And maybe you’ll embark on a remote swimming hole helicopter adventure or take a scenic flight across Bathurst Island combined with an Indigenous art and cultural tour. More than a sum of its parts, everyone who makes it here says it’s unforgettable.

Relax in the calming, beach-inspired bedroom at Tiwi. (Image: aaronvila@iamsavi)

37. Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef, WA

Where else do you catch a kangaroo sipping the water from your foot bath on the deck of your eco tent? Off-grid Sal Salis is like nowhere I’ve ever been: just 16 safari structures hidden in low dunes, boardwalks linking the king beds to the world’s largest, and most accessible, fringing reef. Ningaloo and its turtles, rays, fish and coral are literally a handful of steps from shore; its famous whale sharks only a charter boat tour away. When not snorkelling, I was raising a bubbling glass to the sunset with canapes, then feasting on a multi-course, restaurant-rivalling meal. High environmental cred means lightning-quick showers and eco loos – a fair trade for this wilderness destination. – Fleur Bainger

Watch the sun go down over Ningaloo Reef from your hammock.

38. My Sister & The Sea, Yorke Peninsula, SA

Can you become a new person just by staying in an Airbnb? The question bubbles up as I open the screen door of this white weatherboard cottage on a quiet beachside street in Marion Bay, on the doorstep of Dhilba Guuranda-Innes National Park. A repressed part of me emerges. The part that revels in poring over vintage jigsaw puzzles and bathes outside. Who sips tea from handmade ceramics and reads Hemingway on a sun-dappled day bed. My Sister & The Sea has a quality that’s hard to define. On paper it’s a warm and whimsical three-bedroom family abode, but in real life it’s a sea-swept storybook come to life. – Celeste Mitchell

MSATS exterior
This little white weatherboard cottage fits perfectly into the ideal vision of a beach holiday. (Image: Marnie Hawson)

 

Read all 100 unique stays around Australia here.

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This scenic Victorian region is the perfect antidote to city life

    Craig Tansley Craig Tansley

    Video credit: Visit Victoria/Tourism Australia

    The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

    There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd. In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.

    Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.

    ‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.

    Exchanging city chaos for country calm

    kangaroos near Halls Gap, Grampians National Park
    The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

    I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.

    I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.

    The trails and treasures of the Grampians

    sunrise at Grampians National Park /Gariwerd
    Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)

    Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.

    Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles. I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.

    walking through a cave, Hollow Mountain
    Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)

    There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail, Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.

    Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.

    “There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.

    wildflowers in Grampians National Park
    Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.

    Grampians National Park at sunset
    Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)

    The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.

    What else is on offer in The Grampians?

    a boat travelling along the Wimmera River inDimboola
    Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)

    You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.

    And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).

    dining at Pomonal Estate
    Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.

    The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.

    Salingers of Great Western
    Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)

    There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.

    The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.

    Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.

    And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.

    Kookaburras on a tree
    Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)

    You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Staying there

    Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity.

    Playing there

    abseiling down Hollow Mountain
    Hollow Mountain is a popular abseiling site.

    Go abseiling under the stars or join a guided hike with Absolute Outdoors. Visit Wama, Australia’s first environmental art centre. Check out Dimboola’s eccentric Imaginarium.

    Eating there

    steak, naan bread and beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap serves a great steak on naan bread.

    Eat world-class cuisine at Pomonal Estate. Dine and stay at much-revered icon Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. The ‘steak on naan’ at Halls Gap brewhouse Paper Scissors Rock, can’t be beat.

    Dunkeld Arboretum in Grampians National Park
    The serene Dunkeld Arboretum.

    For Halls Gap’s best breakfasts head to Livefast Cafe. Sip local wines at Great Western’s historic wineries, Best’s Wines, Seppelt Wines and Norton Estate Wines.

    two glasses of beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Sink a cold one at Paper Scissors Rock.