The new way to do the Waterfall Way

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It turns out we’ve been doing the Waterfall Way all wrong…

One of the most magnificent road trips in NSW, the Waterfall Way takes travellers through five national parks, dramatic gorge country and lush rolling farmland, with the chance to explore historic towns along the way. But while lots of guides to the Waterfall Way start at the Coffs Coast and work their way up to Armidale, we say it’s even better to be like a waterfall and flow down from the New England highlands to the sea.

Rather than joining the 185-kilometre Waterfall Way (also known as the B78) from the busy Pacific Highway, we suggest starting with a country drive along the New England Highway or Thunderbolts Way. As well as feeling easier to drive down winding roads than up, you’ll also be able to see the sweeping views open up in front of you as you make your way down the mountains. Here’s our guide to what to see and do along the Waterfall Way.

Thunderbolts Way NSW
Take the winding country roads along Thunderbolts Way. (Image: Destination NSW)

Armidale to Ebor: 81 kilometres

Start your road trip in Australia’s highest city, Armidale, where you can stroll along streets lined with heritage-listed buildings and see Australian art treasures at the New England Regional Art Museum (NERAM).

Armidale Post Office
Discover the many charms of the country town of Armidale in the New England region.
The indoors of a museum with white wall and colorful frames, and two people walking past.
A visit to NERAM’s vibrant art gallery featuring Australian art collections, artist’s studio, shop, and café is a nice addition to your road trip. (Image: Destination NSW)

As you drive east along Waterfall Way it’s only half an hour to Wollomombi Falls, the first waterfall of the trip and the highest in NSW. After rain the falls are a spectacular sight as the water cascades 220 metres into the valley below.

Wollomombi Gorge Oxley Wild Rivers National Park
See the highest waterfall in NSW at the impressive Wollomombi Falls. (Image: Harrison Candlin Photography)

In dryer times you may not see the waterfall, but it’s still worth stopping to look out over the massive wild gorge from the viewing platform near the car park, or you can stretch your legs along the four-kilometre return, grade three Wollomombi walking track .

Wollomombi Gorge Oxley Wild Rivers National Park
Be amazed at the sheer size of Wollomombi Gorge from the viewing platform. (Image: Harrison Candlin Photography)

Listen to local elder Steve Widders share Wollomombi gorge Dreaming stories on the Wollomombi Falls soundtrail , where you can also learn about the ecology and colonial history of the area.

Continue along the Waterfall Way to the New England National Park, where the Point lookout walking track offers incredible 180-degree views over World Heritage-listed Gondwana Rainforests all the way to the ocean.

Point Lookout New England National Park
Soak up the 180-degree views of the World Heritage-listed Gondwana Rainforests in New England National Park. (Image: Harrison Candlin Photography)

With its sealed track, this 500-metre, grade one loop is easy for the whole family; the first lookout is only 100 metres from the car park and is accessible for those with mobility issues. Be sure to keep an eye out for the lyrebirds who call this ancient rainforest home.

New England National Park
Explore the New England National Park. (Image: Harrison Candlin Photography)

Keep your hiking boots on as you drive another 35 minutes to Cathedral Rock National Park , where you can go rock hopping on huge boulders. There are short walks from the campgrounds to enjoy, as well as the six-kilometre return, grade five Cathedral Rock track for more experienced hikers who’ll be rewarded with scenic views from the summit.

Cathedral Rock National Park
Tackle the six-kilometre return, grade five Cathedral Rock track. (Image: Harrison Candlin)

Then it’s only a 20 minute drive to one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Australia: Ebor Falls . With its upper and lower falls, this tiered wonder turns Guy Fawkes River into a white water beauty. Unfortunately the viewing platforms that were lost in the bushfires have yet to be replaced, but you can still see part of the falls from behind a safety barrier.

Ebor Falls
The majestic Ebor Falls never get old and are located in Guy Fawkes River National Park. (Image: Harrison Candlin)

Rainbow and brown trout thrive in the rivers and streams around Ebor, and in trout fishing season they can also be caught in the Bielsdown River that flows through the village. Just outside Ebor you can visit the Dutton Trout Hatchery , which raises two million trout to be released into NSW waterways annually.

Shop

In Armidale’s open-air Beardy Street Mall the New England Collective shares a wide range of products from local designers and artisans, while Granny Fi’s Toy Cupboard is filled with handmade dolls, dragons and other fantastic creatures.

Armidale Plaza is a mix of national brands and local shops. Discover special New England blend teas at the award-winning Daily Ritual , and find a handcrafted hat – or have one custom made for you – at New England Hatters.

Eat

Start your day in Armidale with breakfast at The Goldfish Bowl , where the organic bread is traditionally baked on the hot bricks of the oven floor, and the coffee is roasted on site.

A yellow pastry on a white and blue plate with a coffee in a brown mug in a wooden table.
Choose from a delicious range of pastries and start your road trip day in the right way. (Image: Destination NSW)

For a great pub lunch, White Bull has you covered; think pub classics, Thai salads and daily specials. When it’s time for dinner, the Napoli-style wood-fired pizzas at Signor Vertelli are a stand out, while at Tattersalls Hotel you can choose between fine dining in the restaurant and more casual meals in the pizza garden.

A photo of a cake, ice cream and fruit on a white plate.
The cake is served at the Tattersalls Hotel in Armidale – it is the perfect excuse to stop by. (Image: Destination NSW).

In Ebor, the family-friendly Fusspots Cafe serves sandwiches, salads and light meals for breakfast and lunch.

Stay

After a multi-million dollar renovation, Armidale’s Tattersalls Hotel has been transformed into an Art Deco delight in the heart of the city. As well as restoring period features including a sweeping walnut staircase and pressed tin ceilings,  the makeover offers guests a range of luxurious rooms and a stylish lounge area.

An historical facade of a hotel painted in white under a blue sky.
The Tattersalls Hotel in Armidale is the perfect spot for the discerning traveller and locals alike. (Image: Destination NSW)

Outside Ebor, Moffat Falls is a regenerative farm with a range of accommodation options, including cabins, a cottage, and a fly fishing lodge. The latter can sleep up to eight guests in four bedrooms, each with balconies overlooking the property’s waterfall.

On the edge of the escarpment in the New England National Park, The Chalet is a cosy cabin that can sleep up to three people. Enjoy a BBQ on the deck with a view, and step out your front door to join walking tracks through World Heritage-listed rainforest.

Ebor to Dorrigo: 46 kilometres

Watch the landscape change to rolling green hills as you make your way from Ebor to Dorrigo. While it only takes around 40 minutes to drive between the village and the small town, the views change so dramatically it’s easy to believe you’re in a different part of the country.

A 4WD driving through a scenic forest near Dorrigo.
Be prepared to open your windows and get your cameras out as you will be driving through the scenic forests of Dorrigo. (Image: Destination NSW)

Step out onto the Skywalk at the Dorrigo Rainforest Centre , a 70-metre boardwalk that takes you over the edge of the escarpment for panoramic views of the rosewood rainforest basin and Bellinger Valley. Dorrigo Rainforest Centre is also where you can learn about local plants and animals, and get tips on how to make the most of your time in the Dorrigo National Park, including guided tours and the best walking tracks for your level of fitness.

Highlights include the Crystal Shower Falls walk, a 4.4-kilometre, grade two walk that takes you through World Heritage-listed Gondwana Rainforest and over a small suspension bridge. After admiring the falls from the bridge you can walk down to a rocky cavern behind the waterfall to look back out at the rainforest through the falling water. For those with more time and energy, the Wonga Walk takes in both the Crystal Showers Falls and the Tristania Falls on a 6.6-kilometre, grade two loop.

Crystal Shower Falls Dorrigo National Park
Hike to the magical Crystal Shower Falls in Dorrigo National Park.

On the other side of Dorrigo, just a few minutes’ drive from the centre of town, Dangar Falls can be viewed from above (thanks to a platform right next to the car park) or from below (after a 20-minute walk down to the water’s edge). If the water’s warm enough you can swim out to the 30-metre-high falls, but this is best for stronger swimmers as the water is deep and there’s no chance to rest.

A photo of waterfalls.
Admire the picturesque and scenic Dangar Falls. (Image: Destination NSW)

Shop

Thanks to an excellent gift shop in the Dorrigo Rainforest Centre you may find yourself doing a spot of shopping before you make it out of the national park.

In town, The Mountain Merchant has a well-curated selection of clothing, gifts, beauty and wellness products, with a focus on sustainable Australian labels. Miss Wink is another top spot for gifts and homewares.

Eat

In a cute cottage on Hickory Street, Components Cafe serves up flavour-packed all-day breakfasts and lunches, with vegetarian and gluten-free options available. The cafe also sells local products including bespoke timber furniture and cruelty-free organic skincare in compostable timber pots by Avirida .

At the Lookout Mountain Retreat, Waterfall Way Cafe & Bistro serves fresh seasonal dishes with ingredients sourced from their own onsite garden and local farmers and producers. Sit by the huge stone fireplace in colder months, or enjoy the outdoor terrace when the sun is shining.

Stay

Just a few minutes out of town, looking out over the Dorrigo National Park, the newly refurbished Lookout Mountain Retreat has 26 comfortable rooms including queen, family, triple-share and executive suite layouts. The retreat also has its own deer enclosure, where the family can get close to the gentle creatures as they explore the grounds.

The Dorrigo Town House B&B has a king-size bed with linen sheets, a kitchenette with an air fryer and microwave, and a Smart TV with streaming services ready to go. Bikes and helmets are provided for those who’d like to explore on two wheels; if relaxing is more your thing, you can arrange to have a massage in your B&B.

Dorrigo to Urunga: 44 kilometres

You may now be saying goodbye to the big waterfalls of the trip, but keep an eye out for the smaller falls on the sides of the road as you wind your way down to Bellingen. Here the road is so narrow that at times you’ll need to take turns to cross single lane bridges; enjoy taking it nice and slow, and wind down your windows to hear the calls of rainforest birds as you go.

Explore the independent boutiques and organic cafes in bohemian Bellingen, and discover the wildlife and rich ecosystems along the Bellinger River from the water with Bellingen Canoe Adventures .

A photo of a couple on a canoe along a river.
Get a splash of fun by treating yourself and your family to a tour with Bellingen Canoe Adventures along the Bellingen River. (Image: Destination NSW)

Follow the last stretch of the Waterfall Way through fertile farmland to Urunga, where the Bellinger and Kalang rivers flow into the sea. Walk along the wheelchair-accessible Urunga Boardwalk, keeping an eye out for bottlenose dolphins in the estuary, and watch for humpback whales from May to November.

Urunga NSW
The Bellinger and Kalang rivers flow into the sea at Urunga.

Urunga is just half an hour’s drive from Coffs Harbour and a great base to explore the national parks and beaches in NSW’s first eco destination, Coffs Coast.

Boats docked in a marina between mountains.
Lying on the spectacular Coffs Coast, Coffs Harbour is a wonderful destination for family holidays and memorable adventures. (Image: Destination NSW)

Shop

The heritage-listed Hammond and Wheatley Commercial Emporium, one of the most beautiful buildings in the area, features decorative cement renders, pressed metal ceilings and cedar joinery. It’s now home to the clothing and homewares store Emporium Bellingen , as well as the eclectic Dervish Gallery .

Browse boutiques in historic buildings along Hyde Street, including local handmade and sustainable clothing at The Collective . On the third Saturday of the month you can check out stalls by local artisans, growers and producers while listening to live music at the Bellingen Community Markets .

A photo of a street in a town centre with cafes where people are sitting down.
Explore Bellingen’s town centre. (Image: Destination NSW)

In Urunga you can find clothing, cosmetics and gifts (as well as getting your brows done) at Banksie Blue , while the Urunga Riverside Market hosts stalls, entertainment and food on the Boardwalk on the second Saturday of the month.

Eat

In Bellingen, enjoy a quick bite with wine and cocktails or share a grazing-style meal that includes swordfish and slow cooked lamb in a renovated church at Cedar Bar & Kitchen . For wood-fired pizzas and craft beer, Bellingen Brewing Co is the place to be, while the Old Butter Factory Cafe shares tasty classics in a building with more than 110 years of history.

Start your mornings in Urunga with a hearty breakfast or a sweet treat at Pomegranate, then end your day with a Mediterranean-inspired dinner at Embers Restaurant .

Stay

Relax on a 100-acre sanctuary on the Never Never River at the Promised Land Retreat , where guests can choose between three architecturally designed chalets with fully equipped kitchens, large living areas, decks and spa baths.

At the Riverside Holiday Resort in Urunga there are 40 two-bedroom apartments featuring open-plan kitchen, dining and living rooms, including five wheelchair-accessible units. All the units can cater for up to six people and have their own patios or balconies, with a shared pool, trampoline and BBQ area.

To plan your trip and download maps and itineraries, visit My Waterfall Way .  

Amanda Woods
Amanda Woods is a travel writer based in New England high country in NSW. She’s travelled from Antarctica to the Arctic and loves to inspire people to get out and explore this big beautiful world of ours. She has a passion for regenerative, sustainable and mindful travel and has some big Australian travel dreams for the future.
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No time to hibernate: experience the best of winter in NSW

Whales breaching, fires crackling and slow-cooked feasts that make the cold so cosy, one might wish it lasted longer. Winter is no time to stay at home in NSW.

When the mercury drops, winter in NSW comes into its own. Beaches are quieter, the air is crisper and hearty food tastes even better when there’s ice on the windows.

Winter here isn’t for hiding away. It’s for long walks, deep baths, deeper reds and the kind of fireside lounging that feels simultaneously indulgent and entirely deserved after a day of exploring. From whale-watching up north to moodily lit bushwalks and pastry pilgrimages, we’ve mapped out your new favourite season.

a beach winter in nsw
From coastal walks to tasty delights, winter in NSW is a time to get out and about.

The Tweed

In winter, the NSW north coast has a front-row seat to one of nature’s greatest migrations. From May to November, humpbacks cruise past the Tweed coast between Antarctica and the Great Barrier Reef. Spot them from the Cabarita Beach headland or get up closer with a boat cruise.

Inland, find the Tweed Regional Gallery & Margaret Olley Art Centre , which is home to a rotating cast of big-name exhibitions (including Monet).

Later, grab a table at Bistro Livi , where the modern Spanish menu features whipped salt cod on toast and spanner crab with curry butter and spelt flatbread. Stick around to poke through the artist studios and indie boutiques of M|Arts Precinct .

visitors at Tweed Regional Gallery & Margaret Olley Art Centre
Browse the art. (Image: Destination NSW)

The next day, jump aboard the Indigenous Lunch Cruise with Tweed Escapes. You’ll cruise upriver listening to yarns from local Indigenous guides, stop at the Minjungbal Aboriginal Cultural Museum and tuck into lemon myrtle-crusted snapper.

Next, drive out to Farm & Co to pull apart some juicy smoked lamb shoulder with green olive tapenade while gazing out over the macadamia fields and avocado groves of this working farm.

End the day at Mantra on Salt Beach where you’ll enjoy beach access, a heated rock spa and a lagoon pool.

dining room at Bistro Livi
Taste modern Spanish at Bistro Livi.

Blue Mountains

The cold season is hands down the best time to visit the Blue Mountains. Temperatures are perfect – sunny enough for hikes, and crisp enough at night for snuggling up.

For a trip that equally soothes and stirs, start with a meditative meander through the national park’s eucalypts and Australian wildflowers. Brave the steepest passenger railway in the world, Scenic Railway , then hop the Skyway aerial cable car for unrivalled Three Sisters views.

Thaw out at the Japanese Bath House in South Bowenfels. Soak in steamy outdoor onsens filled with natural mineral water and mountain views, wander the rose and zen gardens, or sip hot drinks in the tea house.

group leader at Blue Mountains Stargazing
Rug up for Blue Mountains Stargazing. (Image: Destination NSW)

Afterwards, head to Ates in Blackheath, where everything revolves around a 150-year-old ironbark-fuelled oven – like the wood-roasted duck with nectarines and Szechuan spice. Or visit Tempus Katoomba , which leans experimental and sustainable, serving up dishes like braised fennel with cumin, spiced yogurt and Aleppo pepper.

Rug up and head into the night with Blue Mountains Stargazing . Sessions are guided by astrophysicists, helping you understand what you’re looking at as you look into deep space.

Wrap it all up at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains – MGallery Collection . There’s a whiskey bar in the basement (and crackling fires that make a dram taste even better), indoor and outdoor pools and a day spa. Kids will love the mirror maze and ice rink, too.

dishes laid out on table at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains
End the day with delicious meals at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains. (Image: Destination NSW)

Southern Highlands

Good food and wine by the fire, experienced between sifting through second-hand treasures, is a winter vibe in Bowral.

Start with a lap around Dirty Janes , an antique and vintage market. Recover from your shopping frenzy at Bendooley Book Barn , where floor-to-ceiling shelves and a roaring fire set the tone for an afternoon of red wine or hot coffee.

When it’s time to eat, head to Hickory’s Restaurant & Bar , Peppers Craigieburn Bowral’s onsite restaurant. Try the crispy pork belly with Granny Smith crisps and apple gel, or ocean trout with wakame, lemon gel and pickled radish.

couple looking through Dirty Janes in bowral
Wander the antiques at Dirty Janes. (Image: Destination NSW)

Another option, Onesta Cucina , does Italian with flair. For something more casual (with cocktails), Flour Bar swings between brunch and dinner, with an onsite bakery, over 400 wines and a hidden deli in the old bank vault.

Later, clamber Mt Gibraltar , where trails wind through eucalypt forest to views over Bowral and Mittagong.

Stay at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral , a century-old estate with open fires, elegant lounges and a nine-hole golf course.

woman and her dog winter in nsw at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral
Stay cosy at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral.

Penrith

Shake off winter inertia with an adrenaline boost out in Penrith. Kick things off with a kayak paddle on the Nepean River with Horizon Line, or head to Cables Wake Park , where cold-weather wetsuits take the edge off a wipeout.

For something a bit more cruisy, opt for the Nepean Belle Paddlewheeler for slow-floating views and a hot cuppa.

kayakers on the nepean river in penrith
Head out on the Nepean River. (Image: Destination NSW)

Refuel at Marcel Bar & Bistro , where reimagined European comfort food – like seafood risotto in bisque with little neck clams and Moreton Bay bugs – is king. Then check in at the Pullman Sydney Penrith , the area’s first international five-star hotel, to enjoy your well-earned rest.

Pullman Penrith
Set yourself up at Pullman Penrith.

Start planning your NSW winter getaway at all.com.