Northern Rivers Rail Trail: A Cycler’s Guide

Discover The Tweed and its bucolic surrounds via the Northern Rivers Rail Trail .

Rail trails are on the rise and the newest addition is set to shine the spotlight on a collection of NSW’s most charming towns and villages.

Unfurling through hinterland and rural towns, the Northern Rivers Rail Trail is set to be a game-changer for the NSW region, opening up The Tweed and beyond to travellers in new ways, one pedal at a time.

Assessing the risk of bodily harm as I clip up my helmet, I glance around at the other punters hiring e-bikes on this blue-sky day in the NSW town of Murwillumbah in the heart of the Tweed Valley.

They include a few happily frazzled families, some wide-smiling couples and plenty of active-looking retiree types. They all appear confident and casual as they swing a leg over their Murf bikes. Should be a nice and relaxed pace out there on the Northern Rivers Rail Trail today, I surmise somewhat gormlessly.

Getting started

I bounce up and down on the fat, four-inch tyres. Feels pretty sturdy. There are five speeds, but I’m told there’s really no need to ascend to top speed. But ‘really’ seems slightly suggestive, almost inviting. I test myself at the lowest setting and, “Weooh!", surge forward with a rush no amount of self-propulsion could ever replicate. Of course, you can do the trail on a regular bike, a horse or just legs, but electric is the way to go if you’re keen to complete the 24 kilometres there and back in one day.

two cyclists entering the Tweed section start of the rail trail — The start of the Tweed section of the Rail Trail.

The crunch of gravel under rubber, the warm, sun-soaked country air and the electric whirr of rail trailers setting off give me all the buoyancy of a kid at a trampoline park. We gently push off from Murwillumbah Railway Station, which, like the other platforms along the trail, is enjoying emancipation from tyre-kicking youths after 20 years of disuse.

a scenic aerial view of Tweed River — The Tweed River meanders through the valley. (Image: Destination NSW/Trevor Worden)

It’s idyllic, except that nobody warned me about the sexagenarians. Along the route there are signs cautioning trail-goers to look out for horses and driveways, but nothing about Lycra-sheathed 65-year-olds hell-bent on beating their PBs to arrive at a flat white and banana bread in the next town. They have no hesitation accessing top speed as they whizz by with maniacal, adrenaline-stretched smiles. Toddlers on training wheels be damned; these grey go-mads have been heeding advice for six decades and now no one is going to tell them they shouldn’t pump it to level five.

I tut-tut their speed as I pedal leisurely at level three with all the urgency, and much of the mood, of Julie Andrews belting out The Hills Are Alive. But maybe I’m a little jealous of their cavalier attitude to speed and of their top-tier health cover. They are undoubtedly living their best lives. So is everyone I pass along the way – there are plenty of one-handed salutations.

a scenic view of the Tweed River — Enjoy country air and open spaces. (Image: Destination NSW/Alexandra Adoncello)

The development of the trail

The first section of the Northern Rivers Rail Trail opened in the Tweed Shire in 2023 and connects Murwillumbah to Crabbes Creek, meandering through the bucolic landscape to pass the towns of Stokers Siding, Burringbar and Mooball. It slips through two tunnels (one festooned with glow worms), over 16 restored bridges and is flanked by rolling meadows populated with ambivalent bovine, rainforests and a tiny but ambient pine forest.

riders cycling through the Northern Rivers Rail Trail in the Tweed — Riders slice through the emerald-green Tweed Shire on a repurposed railway track turned bike trail. (Image: Kiff & Culture/Tweed Tourism Co)

It’s just the beginning of what will ultimately be 132 kilometres of trail, unfurling through the Byron Shire, out to Eltham, Lismore and Bentley before terminating at Casino.

cycling through the Tweed Rail Trail as seen from above — When finished, the trail will extend for 132 kilometres.

The Richmond Valley section that stretches for 13.4 kilometres between Bentley and Casino opened in March, and construction on the 31.8-kilometre Lismore section from Eltham to Bentley is underway. The Byron stretch, connecting Crabbes Creek to Eltham, will be the longest at 62.8 kilometres, and is currently going through the planning and approval stage.

cycling through the Tweed trail — The trail slices through bucolic meadows and forest.

Any shire would be certifiably nuts not to invest in their portion of the Rail Trail, given the enormous economic success it has had in Murwillumbah and the general ebullience of the towns through which it weaves. In its first year, the trail welcomed a huge 140,000-plus visitors, making it one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Northern Rivers. It also made Conde Nast Traveler’s list of The 24 Best Places To Go In 2024, proving interest isn’t only local.

an aerial view of riders cycling through the Tweed Rail Trail — The Rail Trail opens up The Tweed and beyond to travellers.

Where to stop along the way

Riverside Murwillumbah had been inching towards full bloom for a while. Already in possession of drawcards – such as its well-preserved Art Deco heritage, proliferation of artists and easy proximity to beaches and rainforested mountain ranges – it was on a slow burn from rural ambiguity to tourism hotspot. The Rail Trail has hastened that inevitability and while there’s ample room for growth, there’s a tangible excitement about the town as it’s on the cusp of reaching its potential.

visitors exploring the Tweed Regional Gallery — Tweed Regional Gallery is one of Murwillumbah’s creative draws. (Image: Destination NSW/Alexandra Adoncello)

Indeed, the heritage hamlet of Eltham has impatiently embellished its ramshackle former station with homemade signs pleading to connect it to the rest of the trail.

the exterior of The Eltham Hotel — The century-old pub has a charming facade. (Image: Jessie Prince)

It makes perfect sense, as home to a tennis court, the saddest playground I ever did see, and the hip Eltham Hotel that draws all walks from Byron and beyond with its incredible food from chef Alanna Sapwell-Stone, stylish accommodation and excellent live music, Eltham would be a real highlight for cyclists. It deserves to be threaded onto the line.

the interior of the Eltham Hotel — You’ll be able to pit stop at the Eltham Hotel once the Northern Rivers Rail Trail is complete. (Image: Jessie Prince)

A corridor that was, for two decades, mooched over by livestock, graffitied by bored teenagers and overgrown with pine trees, the repurposing is a boon for the region. And while there are some detractors, the cost of restoring and refurbishing the existing tracks to reinstate trains on this line rendered their return impossible, so creating something that would stimulate and showcase this adorable string of rural towns and bring in tourist dollars is a win-win for everyone. Except, maybe, trainspotters.

the bedroom at The Eltham Hotel — Each room at this hip bolthole is unique. (Image: Jessie Prince)

In some cases ‘town’ is a tad of an overstatement. Along the current trail, stunning Stokers Siding is really just a memorial hall and a cluster of paddocks, but here you can stop at Hosanna Farm , an agrarian utopia where a well-tended smoker pumps out deliciously fortifying meals in the form of brisket and burgers at the rustic cafe.

an outdoor dining spot at Hosanna Farm — Stop at the pretty Hosanna Farm. (Image: Tamara Hall)

If you’re in no hurry, you can spend the night in a cute A-frame hut and settle around a campfire or sip sundowners by the dam before cycling onwards the next day.

a spread of food on the table at The Eltham Hotel — Chef Alanna Sapwell-Stone oversees the menu at Eltham Hotel. (Image: Jessie Prince)

Make sure you have a head lamp though, because what comes next is the Burringbar Range Tunnel. At 500 metres long, it’s dark enough to provide a snug roost for microbats and glow worms. And also dark enough for you to hurtle headfirst into a fellow rider or the tunnel wall if you’re not adequately illuminated. It has thrilling ghost ride vibes, but truly, the real threat remains those uncharacteristically daring retirees, who seem to relish passing at speed, tripping your nervous system into battle formation.

Back in daylight and a few klicks on you’ll arrive in Burringbar, a diminutive but gentrifying hinterland village, where riders can dismount for a coffee from the general store, peruse antiques at Heath’s Old Wares , and purchase a take-home tipple from the seemingly out-of-place Natural Wine Shop . Then it’s onwards to Mooball, where an unashamedly no-frills country pub (with a tennis court) and a motorcycle museum number among the highlights. Your final stop is Crabbes Creek, which mainly consists of a bottle shop masquerading as a general store. From here it’s time to pump up your tyres and turn back.

the Natural Wine Shop at Burringbar — Have a tipple at Burringbar’s Natural Wine Shop.

That is until the Byron Shire picks up the slack and unspools the trail down to Billinudgel and onto Mullumbimby. Both are set to lure riders southwards with the historic weatherboard Billinudgel Hotel (also with a tennis court, of course), and Mullum’s eclectic, mountain-backed township as charming as their Tweed counterparts.

And while Byron isn’t lacking the spotlight (the shire is so confident in its own popularity that it doesn’t even have a tourism board), it, too, has a collection of sweet, farther-flung villages that would lure multi-day cycling excursions and connect rural communities. There’s no refuting that The Tweed and Byron beaches remain the biggest drawcard, but the Rail Trail is such a complementary attraction to an active holiday here, it has the power to transform the whole region from a nice-to-visit to a must-visit. Just ask a 60-year-old, if you can slow them down, that is.

two cyclists biking along the Tweed trail — Hit the repurposed rail track.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Arrive in the Northern Rivers by road, rail or air. Fly into airports in Grafton, Lismore and Byron Bay. Or arrive via the North Coast train line.

Staying there

Blue Water Motel

A retro-revival surf motel, this coastal-chic stay is just a short walk from the beach at Kingscliff and a bit further to town, where you’ll find plenty of dining and shopping options, including the Kingscliff Hotel, which often has a rotation of noteworthy bands.

BASQ House

One of Byron’s newest boutique hotel offerings , this town-centre establishment lists a pool lined with day beds and adjacent lounge among its stylish amenities, as well as a library. Lekker bikes and foam surfboards can be taken out, too.

Eating there

Bistro Livi

Murwillumbah and The Tweed have more noteworthy restaurants than you might think. But Bistro Livi is the most unmissable.

Set on the corner of the M-Arts precinct, this sleek diner from former MoVida alumni has everything from the cocktails to the menu and hospitality in perfect working order.

the M-Arts Precinctat Murwillumbah — See M-Arts Precinct at Murwillumbah. (Image: Hayley Nedland)

Playing there

Hire an e-Bike

You can trail as you like, but an e-bike is a lot of fun. If it’s not busy, allow yourself to open up the range and feel the wind in your hair. Valley e-Bikes also offer Pedals and Picnics, where you can choose from grazing boxes and take-home picnic packs. Better By Bike – located at Murwillumbah station – has a shuttle service, should one direction be sufficient.

The Banya

If your muscles are feeling fatigued, book yourself a session at The Banya in Mullumbimby.

This soothing, green-and-white tiled bathhouse with steam room, sauna and four pools has a sleek Mediterranean vibe and is the best way to restore post-ride. Go deeper and add a massage.

holding a green drink at The Banya — Drink in The Banya. (Image: Kristian Beek)

From serene natural beauty to vibrant nightlife, with plenty of arts and culture in between, the NSW Central Coast has been enjoying a serious glow up.

Just one hour from Sydney, the Central Coast has long been the perfect seaside getaway. And with its ECO Destination certification with a focus on sustainability, it’s a trip travellers can feel good about, too. Recently, new and exciting openings have turned the Central Coast into a place where incredible natural beauty is still on the table, but so is a vibrant and sophisticated arts, dining and nightlife scene.

Find out what’s new to discover on the Central Coast.

1. Gosford’s glow up

room at voco gosford — Book into voco and experience the best of Gosford.

Long-time Central Coast lovers will hardly recognise Gosford these days. While always boasting gorgeous water views, a range of revamps and new openings have turned it into a busy hub of arts and culture, with an increasingly diverse and vibrant nightlife.

Landmark lifestyle hotel voco Gosford is the perfect home base for a Central Coast getaway. At this IHG hotel overlooking sparkling Brisbane Water, guests can spend sunny days soaking in the rooftop pool (or just sipping a cocktail beside it). When it comes to meals, you can enjoy multiple venues serving up everything from modern Australian fare to fine-dining Japanese.

Venture out to lay eyes on the Central Coast’s first permanent Moving Image Gallery (MIG) . Opened this year inside the Gosford Regional Gallery , the immersive space is a showcase of screen-based and digital art. While at the gallery, wander around the Edogawa Commemorative Garden, a traditional Japanese strolling garden complete with teahouse, koi pond and an ornamental bridge.

Meanwhile, the revamped Gosford Regional Library has even more than books to discover. Now, it’s one of the best in the southern hemisphere – find exhibitions, historical archives and community initiatives for all ages at this perfect family-friendly escape.

2. Newcomers to the dining scene

table full of food at Amarilla restaurant terrigal — Treat yourself to sundowners and snacks at Amarilla.

The Central Coast has long been the perfect destination for gourmands, with everything from casual eats to fine dining elevating the local offerings. And three new destinations have been added to the map.

Amarilla at The Haven in Terrigal is the perfect seaside venue for sundowners, with blissed-out beats providing the soundtrack. Book in for golden hour and choose bites from a Spanish tapas menu made for sharing. Do as the locals do and wash it all down with sangria – the Sunday Sangria Sessions have become a local institution.

Also in Terrigal, Little Miss has brought a premium Mediterranean menu to the waterfront. Try the wagyu tartare with Greek caviar or butter-poached lobster and tomato bisque, paired with inventive cocktails and a handpicked selection of Lebanese wines.

Over in Ettalong, Bar Toto is perfect for pre- or post-dinner drinks. This award-winning cocktail bar is known for its creative concoctions, along with craft beer, wine and antipasti platters to snack on. The interior sets the mood, with dim lighting and wooden furnishings.

3. New Central Coast experiences

winemaker at Firescreek Botanical Winery — Book an experience at Firescreek Botanical Winery.

It’s entirely possible (and recommended) to spend a Central Coast getaway relaxing on one of its many peaceful and pristine beaches. But for those who crave more, there’s a long list of options to keep you busy.

Pop into the iconic Australian Reptile Park to see the new Weigel Venom Centre, a state-of-the-art facility that’s home to over 200 of the country’s most venomous snakes.

Get out on the water with Sail Central Coast , which offers 20 years of expertise in yacht charters. Book the Sunset Sail & Dine yacht charter for a private afternoon cruising the waterways of Bouddi National Park and Brisbane Water, stopping at Anchor on Hardys for a two-course meal with a cocktail.

For something completely different, Firescreek Botanical Winery is now offering an Aboriginal Storytelling and Wine Tasting Experience. Learn about local cultures, stories and traditions from an Aboriginal Elder, then enjoy a botanical-inspired wine tasting led by a local winemaking expert.

4. Central Coast accommodation

view from a cottage at Noonaweena — Sleep in the hinterland at Noonaweena.

There’s simply too much to experience on the Central Coast to only stay for one day. Turn your trip into a relaxing getaway by the beach.

Allawah , a retreat on the banks of the Hawkesbury River, is accessible only by boat. This secluded two-bedroom cottage is the perfect place to unwind, allowing you to spend lazy days fishing, kayaking, paddling or unwinding with a book on your own private jetty.

In the Kulnura hinterland, Noonaweena features a range of accommodation styles, from a luxe glamping bell tent to cottages and a treetop suite. It’s a leader in green travel, with 10 years of certification from Eco Tourism Australia. Relax in the onsite wellness centre or get active on various courts and in the gym facilities.

To stay by the ocean at Toowoon Bay, book into Kim’s Beachside Resort . This adults-only property offers a luxury escape nestled within a sub-tropical rainforest. Along with 36 private timber bungalows, indulge in massages or reiki treatments at the dedicated spa, or stop by the cocktail bar and à la carte restaurant.

5. Shopping on the Central Coast

Umina’s Centred Ceramics central coast — Try your hand at Umina’s Centred Ceramics’ pottery courses.

For those after unique trinkets, handmade treasures and beautiful homewares, the Central Coast is a haven.

Markets on the Central Coast have a special flavour. Wander the Umina Beach Markets at twilight, where you’ll find small businesses from the local areas, and the Norah Head Ocean View Markets , where you can soak up good food, live music and artisan finds by the beach after sunset. ‘Tis the season for the Christmas twilight edition of the Avoca Beachside Markets, celebrating the season with pop-up bars, tasty treats and plenty of unique gift options from local artists and producers.

Galleria Ettalong has also added to the Central Coast’s recent makers and creators renaissance, wrapping cinemas, a dining precinct and over 40 boutique shops into one area.

Sign up for a pottery course at Umina’s Centred Ceramics , or peruse the shop for a range of one-of-a-kind pottery made on the premises for a special souvenir.

For more eclectic arts and homewares, pop into Blue Bird Collective Co . This marketplace supports over 35 small, local and handmade businesses, artists and creatives. Take the time to check out fashion, jewellery and homewares that won’t be found anywhere else.

Start planning your coastal getaway at lovecentralcoast.com .

Pedal through paradise on the Northern Rivers Rail Trail