How to go on a dog-friendly road trip in NSW

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A dog-friendly road trip around regional New South Wales takes in some of the state’s most spectacular countryside – not to mention pet-friendly accommodation, restaurants and pubs where pooches are pampered as much as their owners.  Words and photography by Natasha Dragun.

It’s 9pm on a sun-soaked summer evening, and it’s well past Ziggi and Zoe’s bedtime. But they’re still running around the immaculate lawns of Corynnia Station, ignoring my calls to come inside, tumbling over resident fur-babies that are making the most of the fading day.

 

A horticultural oasis in the middle of vast, parched farmland, this beautiful homestead has been a labour of love for Julie and Bruce Armstrong for more than four decades. In 1982 they began transforming the 8000-hectare estate in Carrathool, a small village on the Riverina plain around 500 kilometres west of Sydney, into a working merino sheep and cotton farm.

 

At the heart of it all is their sprawling home, decorated with eclectic objets d’art and curious that the couple have collected on their travels around the world. Some rooms and the old jackaroo cottages have been remodelled and set aside for paying guests like our family of four – two humans, two fur babies – with the added bonus being that everything here is pet friendly.

Animal friendly road trips
Happy little campers.

It’s our second night away from home on a road trip around regional New South Wales, and my first-ever driving getaway with both bulldogs – Ziggi, our seven-year-old mini Aussie bulldog, and Zoe, our cheeky seven-month-old English bulldog – on the backseat.

 

According to recent research, dogs are considered a barrier to most pet-owners when it comes to having a weekend away, but thanks to a growing range of upscale, pooch-friendly accommodation, cafes and bars, it’s becoming increasingly easy to holiday around the state with our fur-babies in tow.

Day One – Sydney to Tumut

Heading out of Sydney, our first stop is at Trader & Co. in Yass, where the aroma of freshly baked bread proves to be an irresistible incentive to behave on the lead. We sit streetside, the dogs getting a side of bacon while we order bowls loaded with quinoa, roasted beetroot, free-range eggs and organic vegetables.

 

A collective of socially conscious enterprises, including Six8 Coffee and The Kitchen, the establishment also has a retail section curated by Studio Wild, stocked with chocolate, homewares and jewellery by local creatives.

 

It’s a scenic drive on through the Snowy Mountains to Tumut Plains, where we check into self-contained, pet-friendly Elm Cottage .

 

Laced with native flora overlooking the Goobarragandra River, the property is a paradise for the pooches; they explore the pastures while we pour chilled glasses of riesling from the Clonakilla winery in Murrumbateman, north of Canberra – a brief detour on our way here.

 

The dogs are happy to see there’s more bacon on the breakfast platter left in our fridge, as well as a couple of packets of treats, which we use to bribe them back into the car.

Animal Friendly Road Trip
Farm life.

Not far away is Tumut River Brewing Co. , which ambitiously makes more than 50 types of beer, with 20 on tap at any given time. There’s a delicious spiced pumpkin ale, an amber lager known as Voodoo Child, and the zingy Ginger Ninja: a ginger beer made using locally grown apples.

 

Owner Tim Martin delivers water bowls for the dogs and tasting paddles of his award-winning creations for us, along with a couple of wood-fired pizzas: one topped with Snowy Mountains smoked trout, the other with rosemary and potato.

Day Two – Tumut to Griffith and Corynnia Station

On our way to Corynnia Station we motor through Barellan, the former home of tennis great Evonne Goolagong, and stop in the tiny town of Temora to snap Ziggi and Zoe at the region’s newest attraction: a statue of Boofhead. A fox terrier that rode the railway lines in the 1960s and was given lifelong membership at the local RSL, Boofhead is like the Riverina’s version of Red Dog. He is immortalised in a bronze statue on the station’s only platform, along with a collection of railway memorabilia dating back to the 1890s, when the station opened.

 

Another pooch, a nameless kelpie, is similarly celebrated in nearby Ardlethan, a small service town known as the birthplace of the iconically Australian dog breed.

 

It may be sleepy today, but this part of the world was booming when gold was discovered here in the 19th century; at one time, it was also home to the Southern Hemisphere’s largest tin mine.

 

And then there’s the country’s most famous canine statue: the Dog on the Tuckerbox in nearby Gundagai (money collected from the visitors’ centre and wishing well here is donated to the local hospital). Unfortunately, we don’t have time to linger, as lunch in Griffith beckons, an hour’s drive away.

 

On the city’s main drag, Miei Amici  is busy when we arrive, but we manage to nab one of the alfresco tables, which comes with plenty of space for treats and water for the dogs.

 

Zoe nudges Ziggi out of the way when the snacks are delivered, then manages to devour most of the bacon while we enjoy loaded salads and cheese toasties. Inside, the cafe’s walls are lined with artisanal oils, vinegar and pasta from local purveyors, so we stock up on pantry essentials.

Animal Friendly Road Trip
Home sweet home.

At Corynnia Station  Ziggi and Zoe curl up on the colourful Persian rug in our VIP Homestead Suite – a private section of the original 1930s building – while we sip coffee from floral china on the patio. But truth be told, it’s the garden we’re all most infatuated with.

 

Perfectly manicured grass surrounds the house, broken only by beds of fragrant roses, tall stands of lavender, pots of curious-looking succulents and statues by artist Kim Gibbs.

 

Enormous jacarandas create shady nooks for wrought-iron chairs, while grape vines drape over the pool, enveloped by neatly trimmed hedges.

 

There are butterflies, birds and cicadas, humming melodically at sunset when Julie and Bruce invite our clan for drinks on the verandah; in winter, guests gather around an outdoor fire instead.

Day Three Griffith to Wagga Wagga and Gundagai

The next day in Wagga Wagga, lunch is at another brewery: the Thirsty Crow . We sip on Thirsty MO, a red ale made with malt from the Riverina, while owner Craig Wealands brings the dogs frozen-pea-and-bone-broth balls to combat the heat.

 

The slick establishment offers tasting paddles of its beers, which include the six produced annually as well as a couple of seasonal brews and drops by other Wagga micro-makers. The menu is fresh and flavourful, featuring sliders, ribs and dips, and an incredibly generous brewery board loaded with cheeses, smoked meats and house-made pistachio loaf.

 

From here it’s a 50-minute drive to Kimo Estate in Gundagai, our final overnight stop.(ED: Kimo Estate was one of the 100 Unique Stays Across Australia, included in the Unique Regional Accommodation category.)

The working sheep farm’s 300 hectares of rolling hills are also home to four individually styled cottages – one a luxe pitched-roof eco-lodge, another the former shearers’ accommodation turned into a luxe bolthole, and ours, Daleys Cottage, set under a blooming acacia.

 

Character-filled bedrooms revolve around the cosy living room with its open fire, while the fully stocked kitchen comes with a breakfast hamper and local wines, the latter for purchase.

 

We’re in a remote part of the state, but there’s internet access – and a sign advising that if the wi-fi is down, we should crack a beer and sit on the patio instead. We do just that, soaking up an incredible sunset before motoring down the Hume Highway to make our dinner reservation at the Sir George Hotel in Jugiong.

 

The historic pub’s selling feature is its spacious lawn area and beer garden, where Ziggi and Zoe run amok while we order from the incredibly sophisticated menu including our choice of ricotta-stuffed zucchini fritters, silky white anchovies and warmed Italian olives – with a side of bacon for the dogs, of course.

 

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Why winter is the best time to be on the New South Wales coast

NSW’s beach towns take on a new kind of magic when the cooler months hit.

Autumn and winter cast a whole new light on the New South Wales coastline. The sun hangs lower, the shadows stretch longer and the air is crisp and fresh. The frenetic summer crowds are gone, and the rhythm slows to the pace of a leisurely winter bush walk through still, damp quiet. From wineries pouring winter reds to the annual whale migration up the ‘humpback highway’, here’s why winter on the New South Wales coast is better.

Winter on the NSW South Coast

Winter down south means misty dawns, sipping a flat white on the beach. The thrill of a whale spotting from the headlands and evenings spent slowly savouring Shoalhaven’s wines by the fire.

Start in Kiama, where waves crash into the famous Blowholes. This natural spectacle is achieved when underground pressure and swell unite, sending sea spray soaring above the basalt cliffs. This means, due to larger waves, you’re even more likely to see an explosive display in winter.

two people standing in front of kiama blowhole
See Kiama’s blowholes in full force. (Image: Destination NSW)

Inland, the Minnamurra Rainforest Walk in Budderoo National Park is all subtropical forest and trilling lyrebird song. Make sure to walk silently along the elevated boardwalks, past winter-swelled creeks and the tangled roots of fig trees. You might just hear one of the musically talented birds mimicking your footsteps.

Feeling adventurous? Book a session at Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures for a wobbly walk through the canopy on Australia’s highest zipline.

Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures on the new south wales south coast
Walk among the tallest trees. (Image: Destination NSW)

Next, it’s time to take the speed down a notch with a drive over to the historic village of Berry. It’s been a beloved stop for generations of Sydneysiders heading south, as has the obligatory stop at its famous doughnut van for crisped, cinnamon goodness. If you’re ready for something a little more chunky, stroll right past the boutiques (okay, go on, just one quick peek) to Milkwood Bakery . Their flaky pastries and all-day breakfasts are best enjoyed under cream-coloured fringed umbrellas.

Back in Kiama, you’ll also find modern Middle Eastern share plates at Miss Arda , and next-level burgers on The Hungry Monkey ‘s extensive menu: an ode to everything pattie-shaped.

End the day at The Sebel Kiama on the harbour. The apartment-style rooms come with full cooking facilities — a welcome addition for families looking to test out the local produce they picked up along the way. Including, but not limited to, vintages from nearby Crooked River Wines .

The Sebel Kiama exterior
Sleep by the harbour.

Winter on the Mid-North Coast

A trip up north is a gentle one at this time of year. You’ll still feel that sunshine warming your shoulders, but the lower temperatures make space for rainforest walks, vineyard lunches and long coastal hikes. All without that pesky humidity.

First stop? It has to be the town of Port Macquarie. Start by marking out a stretch of the nine-kilometre coastal walk you want to tackle (or do the whole thing), which winds from Town Beach to the lighthouse along rugged headlands and quiet beaches. Hot tip: binoculars. Don’t forget them if you want to partake in some close-up sightings of dolphin pods or whales migrating up the ‘humpback highway’.

Port Macquarie Coastal Walk, winter on the New South Wales coast
Wander the Port Macquarie Coastal Walk. (Image: Destination NSW)

Swap sea for canopy at the Sea Acres Rainforest Boardwalk , one of the last remaining pockets of coastal rainforest in the state. The accessible elevated trail passes under climbing ferns and tangled strangler figs, and is alive with scarlet robins, goannas and diamond pythons – if you’re lucky, you might see one slipping through the leaf litter.

Afterwards, lunch is sorted at Cassegrain Wines , where crisp whites and elegant reds are grown using a blend of French winemaking tradition and Australian innovation. After a tasting, saddle up for a horse ride through the estate.

port macquarie koala hospital
Meet Koala Hospital inhabitants at their temporary home. (Image: Destination NSW)

The beloved Koala Hospital is rebuilding, so meet its furry patients in their temporary bushland abode at Guulabaa – Place of Koala . Here, you can see rehabilitation up close and learn how one of Australia’s most iconic animals is being carefully rewilded and protected.

Back in town, Whalebone Wharf  serves up fine dining with serious views to go with your oysters. Prefer something breezier? Bills Fishhouse + Bar does everything from blue swimmer crab toast to zucchini noodles drizzled in basil and wattleseed pesto. Down by the waterfront, Little Shack slings ceviche, mushroom burgers and fish tacos with casual aplomb.

At the end of it all, check in to Mercure Centro Port Macquarie , right in the heart of town. From here, everything’s walkable. Just park the car, pop your keys in your pocket, and stroll down to the beach.

bed at Mercure Centro Port Macquarie
Check in to Mercure Centro Port Macquarie.

Winter on the Central Coast

On the Central Coast, expect to explore oyster farms that sit on estuaries, beaches that stretch empty for miles, and the kind of surprise sightings of whale sprays that can stop a hiker in their tracks.

The best way to settle into this slower rhythm is with the Bouddi Coastal Walk , an 8.5km trail that dips through rainforest and eroding cliffs. It’s made for unhurried walkers and long-lens photographers.

Up the coast in Terrigal, it’s prime time to spot humpbacks on the move. Join a cruise or find your own perch — Crackneck Lookout and Norah Head Lighthouse are both local favourites.

a humpback whale breaching on the central coast
Spot migrating humpback whales. (Image: Destination NSW)

Travelling with kids? It would be sacrilege not to visit the Australian Reptile Park . Here, Elvis the saltwater crocodile reigns supreme, and the venomous snake talk somehow manages to be simultaneously terrifying and fascinating.

If that isn’t enough to wear them out, zip and climb your way through Treetops Adventure Central Coast , a ropes course in the canopy of Ourimbah State Forest. Afterwards, steady your nerves with a garden tasting at Firescreek Botanical Winery , where fruit- and flower-infused wines are served under the trees.

Switch earth for sea and hop on a boat tour with Broken Bay Pearl Farm . Once you’re out on the water, you’ll learn how pearls are cultivated and have a hands-on lesson in grading and shucking.

woman holding a pearl at Broken Bay Pearl Farm
Get a hands-on pearl lesson. (Image: Destination NSW)

As the day winds down, grab a seat at Yellowtail in Terrigal , which takes seasonal native produce and presents it with Asian flair. Prefer something simple? Award-winning Mount White restaurant Saddles is a quintessential Australian dining destination. Find an impressive breakfast and lunch menu, dedicated to country-style cooking and seasonal produce.

Stay the night at Pullman Magenta Shores , between the ocean and the lake. There are plenty of ways to relax, with a massage at the day spa, a poolside beanbag and a round or two at the golf course.

restaurant at Pullman Magenta Shores central coast
Eat well at Pullman Magenta Shores’ restaurant. (Image: Destination NSW)

Winter in Wollongong

Wollongong does contrast pretty well. One moment you’re walking beneath an enormous Buddha, the next you’re ordering soju a few blocks from the surf. It’s a town where skydivers land on beaches, trails lead to paddocks and winter days stretch long and clear beneath the Illawarra cliffs.

If you’re coming from the north, start by crossing over the Sea Cliff Bridge. Curving dramatically out like a jutting ‘C’ out above the water means you won’t be able to resist pulling over (safely, in designated lookouts) to gaze down at the waves crashing on the cliffs below.

Just inland is the serenity of the Nan Tien Temple , the largest Buddhist temple in the Southern Hemisphere. You can trace the prayer path, explore the temple gardens and sip delectable Kam Quat Tea in the quiet light at the Dew Drop Inn Tea House.

monk teaching tai chi at Nan Tien Temple
Learn about Buddhist practices. (Image: Destination NSW)

Next, dust off that cowboy hat. It’s time for the Darkes Forest Riding Ranch . Take a guided canter via trail rides among peppermint gums and paddocks. If you’re happier to look at animals than ride them, Symbio Wildlife Park has red pandas dozing in trees, kangaroos that hop up to you and lessons on conservation.

The brave among you shouldn’t miss Skydive Australia – Wollongong . A free fall over the coast via tandem jumps before tumbling down to the sand is a breath-stopping thrill. Prefer to keep your feet on the ground? Check out the program at Wollongong Art Gallery , which delivers contemporary and Aboriginal exhibitions in the centre of town.

monkey at Symbio Wildlife Park
Hang out with the locals at Symbio Wildlife Park.(Image: Destination NSW)

As evening settles in, nab a table at Baby Face Kitchen . It has an ever-changing set menu, with dishes like hand-picked mud crab with white asparagus and salty brown butter, to sheep’s milk and honey ice cream. For something more casual, Dagwood Bar + Kitchen brings the fun with Korean fried chicken, sake cocktails and weekly all-you-can-eat bao buns.

Check in to Novotel Wollongong Northbeach , right by the sand. With a beachfront pool and ocean views, it’s an ideal base for whatever pace you choose.

Novotel Wollongong Northbeach
Fall asleep listening to the waves.

Winter on the New South Wales coast starts with a cosy place to stay. Start planning your adventure at all.com.