Why these Aussie couples have visited Uluṟu so much they’ve lost count

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For two couples, Uluṟu has been more than a destination – it’s been a spiritual touchstone across decades of changing landscapes, culture and understanding. 

Few places on Earth possess the power to transform a visitor with a single glance. Uluṟu is one of them. Towering out of the red heart of Australia, it has drawn people from every corner of the world – and left them forever changed.

Among those who have felt its pull time and again are Brian and Lynda Ralph, and June and Geoff Tidey, two couples whose journeys to Uluṟu span decades. 

First encounters with the magic of Uluṟu 

Lynda and Brian at Sounds of Silence Dinner
Lynda and Brian at the Sounds of Silence Dinner in 2004. (Image: Brian and Lynda Ralph)

When geography teachers Brian and Lynda Ralph first approached Uluṟu in the early 1970s, it was a raw, untamed experience.  

“We drove in, and it was late evening, and we thought, ‘Okay, this is huge,'" Brian recalls. But by the next morning, heavy rain had transformed the landscape.  

“We woke up, it was pouring rain, and the Rock was silver, just the way the light was in the early morning with waterfalls cascading down its sides. Unbelievable," Brian says. 

A family connection 

June and Geoff Tidey's Uluru journey
June and Geoff’s Uluru journey was inspired by their daughter. (Image: June and Geoff Tidey)

For June and Geoff Tidey, originally from Buckinghamshire in the UK, their journey to Uluṟu began much later, in 2008, sparked by their daughter, who has worked and lived in the region for the majority of the last 20 years. 

“We visited because of her," June says, “but we fell in love with the place ourselves." Over more than 10 visits, June and Geoff found Uluṟu to be both a family touchstone and a personal retreat. 

“It’s a very spiritual place, very calming," she reflects. “And it’s not what you expect. People imagine a barren desert – but it’s green, it’s full of life." 

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Watching change unfold 

campsite in 1991
Camping in 1991. (Image: Brian and Lynda Ralph)

Both couples have witnessed – and welcomed – the sweeping changes that have transformed how visitors engage with Uluṟu. For Brian and Lynda, the evolution has been profound over their seven or eight visits (they can’t quite remember how many times they’ve been). 

“In the 70s, people would just hop out of the bus and, often without a second thought, they’d climb the Rock," Brian says. 

“But now, there’s a deep respect. And the Aṉangu culture has been openly recognised and embraced, and visitors are far more conscious of the cultural importance of the site." 

“We didn’t know enough," Brian admits. “But there wasn’t much information available then. Looking back, I just regret we didn’t understand the cultural significance." 

Uluṟu Field of Light
The mesmerising Uluṟu Field of Light installation by Bruce Munro. (Image: Voyages Indigenous Tourism Australia)

Brian points to the Uluṟu-Kata Tjuṯa’s Traditional Owners, the respectful interpretive signs, and the re-routing of roads to protect sacred sites. “It’s heartwarming," he says. “You feel like you’re being invited to experience something truly special, but with the understanding that you are a guest." 

Brian and Lynda also point out the difference in accommodation options over the years. 

“[In the early days] we were in two-man tents on red dirt and that was it, there was nothing else," Brian says. 

“Now, with Ayers Rock Resort, for people considering going there, there’s a really wide range of accommodation and pricing. There are a variety of options. We usually stay at the Outback Hotel." 

June and Geoff have visited Uluṟu more than 10 times, but the exact number is difficult to recall. They, too, have a favourite accommodation – Emu Walk Apartments – and have discovered a favourite room as well.

“We always stay in the same room – 209," June laughs. “The room is a one-bedroom apartment, it’s so good, so centrally located, we just loved it, so we’ve asked for it ever since!" 

Memories made across generations 

Brian and Lynda Ralph grandkids at Mutitjulu Waterhole
The Ralphs visited with their grandchildren in 2022. (Image: Brian and Lynda Ralph)

For the Ralphs, Uluṟu has become a part of their family’s story. They’ve returned with their children, and later their grandchildren, weaving memories of sunrise walks, Indigenous tours and quiet moments of awe into the fabric of their lives. 

“Every time we visit, we discover something new," Lynda says. “Taking our grandchildren to see the Aboriginal rock art and watch their faces light up – it’s unforgettable." 

“As teachers, we started teaching very differently as we became more and more aware of the cultural importance [of Uluṟu] to the local people and being sensitive to that," Brian tells Australian Traveller. 

The Tideys, too, have found fresh experiences on each return trip. From laidback stays at their beloved Emu Walk Apartments to memorable moments with their daughter’s family, their connection has deepened beyond sightseeing. 

“It’s not just about seeing Uluṟu anymore," June says. “It’s about feeling it. Listening, learning, respecting." 

“For the next trip, we want to do the Wintjiri Wiṟu dinner and drone show. That’s the only one we haven’t done." 

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Why Uluṟu still calls them back

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“Seek to understand, not just to see." – Brian Ralph (Image: Brian and Lynda Ralph)

If they could go back to their first visits, Brian and Lynda know exactly what advice they’d give their younger selves. “Learn more," Brian says simply. “Seek to understand, not just to see." 

June, meanwhile, would advise newcomers to slow down. “Spend at least five days if you can. Have fun and join all the experiences that you can." 

Despite the years, both couples feel the magnetic pull of Uluṟu as strongly as ever. “It’s become a very special place to us," Brian says. “It always feels like coming home." 

As for future visits? “Absolutely," Lynda says. “We’ll go back again and again." 

Because some places don’t just mark the map. They mark the soul. 

Emily Murphy
Emily Murphy is Australian Traveller's Email & Social Editor, and in her time at the company she has been instrumental in shaping its social media and email presence, and crafting compelling narratives that inspire others to explore Australia's vast landscapes. Her previous role was a journalist at Prime Creative Media and before that she was freelancing in publishing, content creation and digital marketing. When she's not creating scroll-stopping travel content, Em is a devoted 'bun mum' and enjoys spending her spare time by the sea, reading, binge-watching a good TV show and exploring Sydney's vibrant dining scene. Next on her Aussie travel wish list? Tasmania and The Kimberley.
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Discovering East Arnhem: Australia’s most unique and rewarding corner

    Joanne Millares Joanne Millares

    Hard to reach and harder to forget, East Arnhem offers something rare in modern travel: the chance to slow down and experience Country on its own terms.

    The sky feels bigger in East Arnhem . It stretches wide and uninterrupted above rouged earth, stringybark woodland and beaches so empty they seem to belong to another era. The coastline curves for kilometres without a footprint and the horizon runs on forever.

    For comedian Lou Wall, the scale of the place was the first thing that hit them.

    “The sheer openness,” they say. “The sky feels infinite and the land stretches out endlessly. It’s pretty breathtaking visually.”

    But the physical landscape is only part of the story. The real reward isn’t only the scenery but the shift in perspective the journey brings. Visitors stop trying to tick off the destination and a real engagement takes over.

    “It made me never want to travel again,” Wall jokes. “In that I never wanted to leave East Arnhem.”

    Getting there

    Aerial shot of East Arnhem’s coastline as cars trace the curve of the shore.
    Sail along the remote coastline on an expedition cruise.

    Reaching East Arnhem is part of the adventure. Travellers typically fly into Gove Airport near Nhulunbuy via Darwin or Cairns, or arrive by expedition cruise along the remote coastline. Others make the journey overland along rutted dirt roads that cut through East Arnhem’s small pockets of monsoon forest.

    However you arrive, there’s a distinct feeling of crossing into somewhere different. Permits are required to visit the region, reflecting the fact that this is Yolŋu land where communities and traditional owners maintain deep cultural connections to Country.

    The extra planning becomes part of the experience. By the time visitors arrive, they understand they’re entering a place not just of respect, but also patience and curiosity.

    At one with nature

    East Arnhem’s  landscapes leave a strong imprint. For Wall, one place in particular still lingers in their memory: Ngalarrkpuy , also known as Lonely Beach, near Bawaka Homeland.

    “I genuinely felt like I was living inside an Instagram filter,” they say. “One of the most stunning feats of nature I’ve ever seen. The water was so clear I swear I could see even the fish smiling.”

    Across the region, natural experiences unfold at a slower pace. Fishing, beachcombing and island hopping reveal the rhythm of the coastline. The tides shape daily life and the vastness of the landscape makes even simple moments feel downright cinematic.

    For visitors with limited time, Wall says the Bawaka Homeland experience is unmissable.

    “I just left and I’m already planning when I can get back there.”

    The sense of remoteness is part of the appeal. In a country where many beaches are crowded and well-trodden, East Arnhem’s coastline still feels wonderfully wild.

    Immersing in local culture

    A visitor spends a meaningful moment alongside Yolŋu guides, gaining insight into their deep cultural knowledge and connection to the land.
    Experience authentic moments with the locals.

    Culture is woven through every experience in East Arnhem. Visitors have the opportunity to spend time on Country with Yolŋu guides and knowledge holders who share stories and traditions that have been passed down for generations.

    For Wall, one of the most powerful moments came during a conversation with a Yolŋu elder.

    “I got to meet a traditional elder, Mayalil, in Nhulunbuy,” they say. “Listening to her talk about her home made the land feel alive in ways I couldn’t have imagined.”

    The region is also home to internationally recognised Aboriginal art centres where artists shape works deeply connected to land and family knowledge.

    Music carries the same cultural energy. East Arnhem has produced globally recognised artists such as King Stingray and Baker Boy, blending Yolŋu language, storytelling and contemporary sound.

    Wall experienced this musical spirit first-hand.

    “A jam session around the fire was it for me,” they say. “Letting the deep joy and history of their music wash over me…  and meeting a few of the King Stingray musicians was unreal.”

    These moments of human connection often become the most memorable part of a visit.

    Spotting local wildlife

    An aerial view of the beach shows tiny figures lined up across the white sand, moving as if in a rhythmic dance.
    Step into a world where nature reigns.

    The wildlife of East Arnhem adds another layer to the experience. The region is home to an extraordinary range of animals, from waterbirds and turtles to dugongs, dolphins and the formidable saltwater crocodile.

    Wall admits they didn’t actually spot a croc during their visit.

    “Devastatingly, I didn’t see one,” they laugh. “But with all the stories from the locals I definitely gained a healthy respect for caution.”

    Some of the most memorable wildlife encounters can be surprisingly small., At Banubanu Beach Retreat on Bremer Island, Wall remembers walking along the beach one morning and watching it come alive.

    “As you walk through the sand you see hundreds of crabs scurrying into their holes as you pass by,” they say. “Such a small thing, but it was completely magical.”

    Moments like this reveal the quieter rhythms of East Arnhem, where even the smallest creatures seem to play a part in the landscape.

    Visitors who make the journey soon learn the most important travel tip of all.

    “Go in open-minded with a sense of curiosity,” Wall says. “Be prepared to ditch your plans. The land and the locals will guide you on an adventure no spreadsheets could ever compete with.”

    And most importantly, they add, don’t rush.

    “The land and people deserve your time and attention. You’ll be all the better for slowing down.”

    For more information on visiting East Arnhem, head to eastarnhem.com.au .