A weekend full of surprises on Magnetic Island, QLD

Celeste MitchellBy Celeste Mitchell
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Magnetic Island has always attracted those seeking a slower pace of life, but as new ways of experiencing it bubble up, it’s set for a surge in popularity with those a little more discerning than the backpacker crowd.

First glance at its marvelous beauty

The humidity of the wet season clings like Lycra as we climb the granite steps cut into the headland. It’s only a short trail – 1.7 kilometres, or so the sign says – but I’ve already lost track of how long we’ve been walking. I’m too busy smiling, stopping frequently to marvel at the beauty dished up at every altitude – slivers of sapphire sea, gnarled trees sprouting from car-sized boulders smattered with lichen.

The track forks and my friend and I descend towards the sea, somehow summoning butterflies to surround us while freshwater flows down a thin ravine beside our feet.

We reach the bottom, a clearing, and endless blue sky illuminating the frangipani trees and coconut palms that frame Radical Bay. It’s the most magical part of the day and we’ve got the place to ourselves. But as radical as it may seem, this is far from an isolated incident on Magnetic Island.

a palm-fringed shore at Horseshoe Bay
Horseshoe Bay on a clear, sunny day.

The appealing charm that draws you back

I’ve returned to Magnetic Island (Yunbenun) many times since first visiting a decade ago, and it never fails to tug at the heartstrings. Lying eight kilometres offshore from Townsville, this boulder-strewn beauty is the only Great Barrier Reef island with its own postcode, and a clutch of 2100 people who call it home.

It’s surrounded by 23 bays, protecting the kinds of beaches Alex Garland tried to distil in his novel The Beach, and the fact most are only accessible by boat or sweaty hike makes them all the more rewarding.

Maggie, as it’s more affectionately known, has always appealed to real-world defectors and now it’s increasingly becoming a hotbed of digital nomads.

The island’s natural magnetism is what prompted designer Frankie Ratford to sell everything she owned and buy an A-frame house in Horseshoe Bay to list on Airbnb. After a swift renovation, Maggie A-frame was born and I’ve booked in to reacquaint myself with Maggie’s charms.

The SeaLink ferry
The SeaLink ferry approaches its arrival point at Nelly Bay.

How to go to Yunbenun

Any trip to Yunbenun starts with the short 20-minute ferry ride from Townsville and hiring a car; the mini Mokes of my memory usurped by fancy topless Fiats. As we approach Horseshoe Bay, The Forts Junction – where the island’s most popular hike to reach the Second World War fortifications begins – is abuzz with construction workers toiling at the $2.35-million redevelopment to the car park and walking trail (expected to be completed by May 2021).

But it’s not just roadworks and trail upgrades that hint at a revitalisation. A fine diner, wine bar, food trucks and a jungle-themed coworking space (another project by Maggie A-frame owner, Frankie) are all new kids on the block.

Where to eat, shop and dine

Much of the action centres around Nelly Bay where Saltwater Magnetic Island opened about 12 months ago; its head chef trained at Neil Perry’s Rockpool. They were soon joined by Smugglers Wine Bar in a neighbouring blue cottage, where food trucks complement a short tapas-style menu and Australian-leaning wine list.

In February, Townsville’s popular Otto’s Market deli opened an outpost in Nelly Bay, stocked with gourmet cheeses, sandwiches and other picnic essentials. And, down on the waterfront, the brightly coloured Shaka van dishes up acai bowls and healthy brekkies in eco-friendly containers (but you can BYO cup and bowl to do one better for the environment).

This fresh influx is welcomed by Clare Ley, who along with husband Paul, runs Pilgrim Sailing . “Businesses come and go, not everyone can live here, but there’s been a growth in quality products, which is amazing," she says. “There’s enough to do here but it’s not by any stretch a Noosa or a Gold Coast, and that’s its absolute charm."

a lady sitting barefoot and holding a glass of wine in front of Maggie A-Frame
Island hideaway at Maggie A-Frame.

Untamed bays of dizzying beauty

Clare and Paul made Maggie their permanent home 12 months ago after alternating seasons between Sydney and the island for five years. They introduced The Beach Club – gourmet picnics on secluded beaches – in July 2020, in the midst of COVID-19 lockdowns, which quickly became the most popular experience on the books. “It’s been crazy busy from the moment we opened," she tells me as we try to find an available spot in the schedule.

Angry clouds slump on the horizon the morning of our picnic, but we’re keen to head out all the same. I’m not sure even a cyclone would deter our unflappable skipper, Clayton Scott, who pulls a zippy yellow tender onto the sand at Horseshoe Bay for us to climb aboard. It’s the same spot he landed 15 years ago after sailing solo around Australia for five years, promptly met his wife in a backpacker bar, and decided to stay.

“I’d built up a successful fruit and veg business in Cairns and, by the time I was 31, I had the house, the car, the boat, everything and I thought, ‘What if I sold it all and went sailing?’ So I did," he says.

What to see in Maggie

You haven’t truly seen Maggie until you see her from the water. At sea level, her dramatic boulders, towering hoop pines and ironbarks look otherworldly: a dry tropics forest tumbling into coral-fringed waters. Being the tail-end of the wet season, it’s a vivid green painting.

Monolithic boulders, like giant elephants, congregate at the water’s edge. Another rises majestically out of the sea to our right as we round the northern edge of the island. We’ve been granted private access to untamed bays of dizzying beauty; unless you have your own boat, there’s only a handful of permits provided for operators to bring people here, and only on certain days.

a lady dipping in the waters of Endeavour Falls in Arcadia
Take a dip at Endeavour Falls in Arcadia (Petersen Creek).

Picturesque and scenic views await you

We spy the much-Instagrammed Lovers Bay, a sliver of sand wedged between two rocky headlands. Then Clayton runs us through the Five Beach Bay group, starting with Maud Bay where the same family has lived for three generations in an old whaling station, and onto Norris, Joyce and Wilson, where you can climb to a waterfall tall enough to stand under.

The clouds temporarily part for the finale as we land on Huntingfield Bay; a dream of wide golden sands where a freshwater pool at the foot of a boulder-lined valley makes the perfect spot for Beach Club Picnic guests to plop themselves into and peel fresh North Queensland prawns.

We clamber up the rocks a little to reach the source. “It only runs for about three weeks after rain, so you’re lucky," Clayton says before wading through the pool to sit beneath the waterfall, fully clothed. You could take me to the fanciest waterfront restaurant in the world for lunch and it wouldn’t stand up to this.

Within three short days, I realise Maggie and I have moved to a new phase of our relationship; I’ve seen sides of her I never knew existed. And yet I know I’ve only just scratched the surface of what she has to show me.

the boardwalk at Picnic Bay Jetty on a sunny day
Stroll along the heritage-listed Picnic Bay Jetty.

Getting there

Magnetic Island is a 20-minute ferry ride with SeaLink from Townsville in North Queensland. Qantas and Virgin fly to Townsville from Brisbane direct with connections from other major capitals. Jetstar flies from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne to Townsville direct.

Staying there

Maggie A-frame is a barefoot island hideaway, sleeping up to five people, framed by palms and mango trees a short walk from Horseshoe Bay.

Best of Magnetic manages a portfolio of architecturally designed homes such as Headland House, built among the boulders above Picnic Bay with private beach access, and the cute and compact (and also pet-friendly) Little Bush Hut in Nelly Bay. bestofmagnetic.com

Playing there

The Beach Club Magnetic Island picnic with boat transfer starts from $349 per couple with an additional charge to access more remote northern beaches, such as Five Beach Bay, and options to upgrade from gourmet antipasto to fresh local seafood.

Dreaming of a tropical getaway? Here’s why you should visit Magnetic Island, QLD.

Celeste Mitchell
With visions of hosting Getaway, Celeste Mitchell graduated with a Bachelor of Journalism and entered the hard-hitting world of boy bands, puberty, and fashion, writing for magazines like Girlfriend, Total Girl, CLEO and TV Hits in the early noughties (there was a lot of Twilight references). Since switching gears to full-time freelancer in 2013, focused exclusively on travel, she’s criss-crossed the globe, opened a co-working space, lived in Mexico, and co-founded slow and sustainable site, Life Unhurried. The Sunshine Coast-based author (Life Unhurried & Ultimate Beaches Australia, Hardie Grant) and mum of two regularly pinches herself that she gets to explore new places and ask all the nosy questions she wants in the name of work.
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What it’s really like to stay on the world’s largest sand island

    Kassia ByrnesBy Kassia Byrnes
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    Exploring the world’s largest sand island starts with the perfect K’gari homebase.

    The morning light is still soft, but it’s already a perfect sunny day. We left our K’gari homebase at Kingfisher Bay Resort  with our guide, Peter Meyer, at 9 am to make the most of our time to explore all that the world’s largest sand island holds. The size of K’gari is hard to grasp until you arrive here. This is no sandbar. Stretching 120 kilometres, unique lakes, mangrove systems, rainforest, 75 Miles of beach, historic shipwrecks, small townships and even one of Queensland’s best bakeries are all hidden within its bounds.

    But first, one of the island’s most iconic sights: the pure silica sand and crystal clear waters of Lake McKenzie.

    Laying eyes on it for the first time, I’m finally able to confirm that the photos don’t lie. The sand is pure white, without the merest hint of yellow. The water fades from a light halo of aqua around the edges to a deeper, royal blue, the deeper it gets (not that it’s particularly deep, six metres at most). The surface remains surprisingly undisturbed, like a mirror.

    Arriving with our guide before 10 am means that no one else is around when we get here. Which means we have the pleasure of breaking the smooth surface with our own ripples as we enter. As a self-confessed wimp with chilly water temperatures, my fears are quickly assuaged. Even in the morning, the water stays around 23 degrees – perfect for lazing about all day. But we have more sights to see.

    Exploring K’gari

    ariel of in lake mckenzie on k'gari fraser island
    Relax in the warm waters of Lake McKenzie. (Image: Ayeisha Sheldon)

    This was the Personalised 4WD tour offered by Kingfisher Bay Resort, and my absolute top pick of experiences. Over the course of the day, we had the freedom to create our own bespoke itinerary (plus a provided picnic lunch along the way), with an expert guide who had plenty of stories and local expertise to give context to what we were looking at. From the history of the SS Maheno shipwreck, which survived the First World War only to be washed ashore by a cyclone in 1935, to a detailed description of how an island made of sand could sustain such diverse flora.

    If it’s your first time to K’gari, the Beauty Spots Tour is another great option. Departing daily from Kingfisher Bay Resort (you’ll start to notice a trend, as many of the tours do start and end here), an air-conditioned, 4WD bus takes guests to the island’s most iconic locations, including the best places to swim, like Lake McKenzie and Eli Creek. The latter offers a gentle current, perfect for riding with a blow-up tyre out towards the ocean.

    The next day, for a look at a completely different side of K’gari, I joined one of Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Immersive Ranger-guided tours to kayak through the mangroves of Dundonga Creek. This long, snake-like stretch of creek winds its way inland from the ocean outlet we entered by, at times too narrow for three kayaks to be side-by-side. Small insects buzz from leaf to leaf, while birds call overhead. Occasional bubbles indicate we’ve passed some fish that call this place home.

    kayak tour through the mangroves at k'gari island
    Learn about the island’s mangroves from your Ranger. (Image: Reuben Nutt/ TEQ)

    If kayaking isn’t for you – or if, like me, you simply want more – other ranger-led experiences include nature walks and a dedicated Junior Eco Ranger Program for kids ages five to 12 (these run every weekend, and daily over the peak December holidays). Just ask for a timetable of upcoming tours when you check in.

    While during whale season, Hervey Bay Whale Watch & Charters operates tours from the hotel’s jetty to get up close to the famous Humpback Highway of Hervey Bay, from 7 November to 31 May, attention turns to the Aqua Oasis Cruise . Departing from the resort every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday for resort guests, adventure along the island’s remote western coast, pointing out wildlife like dolphins, turtles, flying fish and eagles along the way.

    The cruise drops anchor so guests can jump into the water using the boat’s equipment – from SUP boards to inflatable slides and jumping platforms. Then refuel with a provided lunch, of course.

    Unwind at sunset

    two people drinking cocktails at sunset bar, kingfisher bay resort
    Unwind at the Sunset Bar. (Image: Sean Scott)

    As much as days on K’gari can be filled with adventure, to me, the afternoons and evenings there are for unwinding. Sunsets on K’gari are absolutely unbelievable, with Kingfisher Bay on the west side being the best spot to catch the colours.

    The Sunset Bar , located at the start of the resort’s jetty and overlooking the beach, is the ultimate location for sundowners. Let chill beats wash over you as you sip on cool wines, beers and cocktails in a relaxed, friendly vibe. Personally, a cheese board was also absolutely called for. As the sun sinks, the sand, sea and horizon turn a vibrant shade of orange, with the jetty casting a dramatic shadow across the water.

    When the show is over, head back to the hotel for dinner at the Asian-fusion Dune restaurant, or the pub-style Sand + Wood. But if your appetite is still whetted for more lights and colours, the evening isn’t over yet.

    Settle into the Illumina stage for Return to Sky, an immersive light and sound show leading viewers on a captivating journey through K’gari’s stories and landscapes.

    Indulge and disconnect

    woman setting up massage room at kingfisher bay resort Island Day Spa
    Find bliss at Island Day Spa. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Of course, there is a type of traveller who knows that balance is important, day or night. While Kingfisher Bay Resort offers more than one pool for guests to spend all day lounging by (they’ll even serve you food and drinks while you do it), you’ll find me at the Island Day Spa.

    The masseuses could match the magic hands of any big city spa, and I felt the warm welcome as I walked into the light, breezy reception. Choose from a range of botanical facials, beauty treatments and soothing massages using traditional techniques (obviously, I couldn’t go past a relaxing massage). All products used contain organic, native botanical ingredients with nutrient-rich plant extracts to soothe skin and mind. To really indulge, try out one of the packages, couples treatment or even a pre-wedding day offering.

    Getting there

    kingfisher bay resort 4wd tour driving passed ss maheno on k'gari island
    The world of K’gari awaits. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Getting to K’gari is shockingly easy. Find daily flights into Hervey Bay from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a shuttle bus between the airport, their headquarters in Hervey Bay and the ferry to take you to K’gari.