Driving the Nullarbor Crossing | Australian Traveller

Australian Traveller drives the Nullarbor Crossing on one of Australia’s greatest outback journeys.

Crossing the Nullarbor Plain is one of the foremost outback travelling accomplishments for Australians and overseas visitors alike. It’s said that until you’ve spent the time making your way across this endless, mostly treeless, plain you’ve not fully experienced the true loneliness – and freedom – that Australia can provide. It’s been driven, walked, cycled, trained and even skateboarded, and has come to represent everything that is vast and intensely featureless about much of the Australian Outback.

How long does it take to cross the Nullarbor?

The Nullarbor can be done fast or slow, and in fact sometimes it’s difficult to tell which is which; time has a way of telescoping on this famously arid drive. Foot to the floor, it can be done in less than 24 hours – but that’s foolhardy in the extreme. Allowing yourself anywhere from five to ten days is best for really embracing the wide expanse, occasional low spinifex and straight, straight bitumen.

It’s easy to imagine the Nullarbor as it must have been millions of years ago when it was thought to be a vast seabed. The Plain itself covers around 200,000km², and is gutted east to west by the ramrod straight Eyre Highway, which begins at the WA end at Norseman and terminates almost 1700km later in SA’s Port Augusta.

What road trip highlights will I find?

In between, you’ll find only a few things to disrupt your train of thought as you drive. These include: the world’s longest straight bit of road (the 90 Mile Straight, 146.6km between Caiguna and Balladonia); giant semitrailers intent on sweeping you into the roadside gravel if you’re not careful; hundreds of feral camels (of which a handful are almost certain to stray out of the darkness into your path); ditto Big Red ’roos; a roadhouse or two; tourists (probably German) on bikes; and dozens of shimmering mirages as you slowly succumb to white-line fever.

The spectacular cliffs of the Great Australian Bight, some of the longest in the world, can be viewed from several different Marine Park lookouts and provide some important relief from the mesmerising uniformity. As do the plethora of underground cave systems, such as Cocklebiddy, one of the longest underwater caves in the world. Be sure to check out the museum at Balladonia for more info on these fascinating – and tremendously fragile – environments running beneath the Nullarbor’s extensive limestone surface.

Are there towns along the Nullarbor Plain?

The various towns dotted along the Nullarbor Plain range from Eucla at their largest (near the SA/WA border, with its much-photographed Old Telegraph Station being gradually reclaimed by sand dunes), to Ceduna, the last major town if crossing east to west, to Balladonia, Caiguna, Madura, Mundrabilla and Penong – which are essentially roadhouses with the odd hotel/motel and caravan park thrown in. Balladonia became briefly famous in 1979 when chunks of Skylab crashed to Earth nearby, Caiguna has its own landing strip, Madura is focused mainly on sheep farming, Mundrabilla is famous for large meteorites fragments discovered in the area, and Penong is known for its abundance of windmills. So don’t let anyone tell you there’s nothing to do out there.

The many windmills of Penong. – WA Tourism

At the WA end of your Nullarbor odyssey, you can elect to veer south and wind your way through Esperance and Margaret River – but to do so would be to abandon the Outback flavour of your journey. Instead, head north from Norseman along Route 94 for Kalgoorlie and the Golden Mile. And remember, if you’re travelling west to east from Perth across the Nullarbor (especially if you’re on the great Indian Pacific train journey), Kalgoorlie represents the last major town for many hundreds of kilometres. So be sure to stock up on water, snacks and plenty of in-car games.

The white dunes of Eucla. – WA Tourism

What should I know before I go?

Who got there first?

In 1841, Edward John Eyre became the first European to cross the Nullarbor Plain in its entirety.

Don’t miss

Possibly the most photographed road signs in Australia, warning you to watch out for camels, wombats and kangaroos. You know the ones.

Drive time

From Port Augusta to Kalgoorlie via the Nullarbor Plain is around 1850km. Drivable in a couple of days, but allow between five and ten to explore all the sidetracks.

Dos + Don’ts

1. Don’t blink as you’re passing through most of the stops along the Nullarbor, which on your map may look like major towns, but are actually little more than roadhouses.

2. Don’t, for heaven’s sake, do that thing where you lie on the road listening for the vibrations of distant cars.

3. Be mindful of speed limits as it’s easy to lose track. For stark reminders, look out for short coloured poles on the verges. Red poles mark where an injury occurred; black poles, a fatality.

4. Don’t ever, ever go below about a third of a tank of petrol. The distance between roadhouses is often hundreds of kilometres, so if in doubt, fill ’er up, and consider carrying a jerry can.

5. Keep an eye out for Royal Flying Doctor Service airplanes, which sometimes use sections of the highway for take-offs and landings.

Accessibility

No roughing it here – the Nullarbor Plain can be (and has been) conquered by cars, bikes, solar-powered vehicles, skateboards and even on foot. Sweet bitumen all the way.

Did you know

The town of Norseman on the western end of the Nullarbor crossing is named after a horse – now commemorated by a well-known statue – which supposedly uncovered a large nugget that led to a major gold find.

More info

Visit www.southaustralia.com and www.westernaustralia.com for more maps and itineraries for the Nullarbor Crossing.

What are the must-see sights worthy of a detour?

1. Cocklebiddy Cave

The longest water-filled cave in the world is around 30min northwest of Cocklebiddy Roadhouse in WA, which is 83km west of Madura and 64km east of Caiguna.

2. Bunda Cliffs

Between Border Village and the town of Nullarbor itself there are six terrific lookouts for viewing the famous Bunda Cliffs at the Head of the Bight. May-Oct is great for whale spotting.

3. Eyre Bird Observatory

For hardcore twitchers, this not-for-profit sanctuary is around 50km southeast of Cocklebiddy. 4WD required.

4. Afghan Rocks

Just east of Balladonia, an Afghan camel driver was supposedly shot and killed here for bathing his feet in a freshwater dam.

5. Murrawijinie Caves

There are three just north of Nullarbor Roadhouse, the first of which is dull. But the second and third have fascinating Aboriginal handprints and paintings.

The Nullarbor crossing is infamous among road trippers, with legends of how monotonous the 1256-kilometre route across southern Australia can be. But there is plenty to surprise travellers embarking on the journey.

From cool ‘outback’ pubs and awesome ranch-style campsites to eerie horror-movie-style motels you should drive straight past, the Nullarbor is an iconic Aussie road trip that cements itself in your subconscious. Dismiss the rumours of mind-numbing boredom, get the music cranking and prepare yourself for a sometimes beautiful but often quirky journey.

Don’t miss: Driving the Nullarbor in summer: what you need to know

Your first stop in the east: Ceduna

There’s not much in Ceduna, South Australia, except a pretty foreshore, jetty and basic services, but it’s the last big-ish town you’ll come across before you head west and, therefore, the eastern launching point for any adventure across the Nullarbor. This is where you fill up on fuel (it’s worth comparing prices at the few service stations), stock up on groceries and ensure you have plenty of water for the journey.

Ceduna in SA is the last big-ish town you’ll come across. (Image: South Australia Tourism Commission)

It’s also wise to pop into the Visitor Information Centre, as the staff members are a wealth of knowledge and you can pick up a detailed paper map to help you plot your route and number of travel days (four is a good amount).

Surfers’ secret: Cactus Beach

You’d be forgiven for thinking you’d stepped onto the set of a 1980s surf doco when arriving at Cactus Beach, officially called Point Sinclair Camping Ground. It’s a half-hour detour (21km) off the Eyre Highway at Penong but it’s worth it. Cactus is one of the first accommodation options after Ceduna and a highlight for any ocean-loving road-tripper.

Cactus Beach is a half-hour detour but worth it for the surf and camping spot. (Image: Michael Waterhouse Photography

Picture vintage caravans and 4WDs protruding from coastal scrub just metres from roaring waves that have attracted surfers for decades. Of course, you don’t have to camp here – you could just come for the surf – but the campsite is cool, with firewood topped up daily, a rudimentary camp kitchen where wetsuits and garlands of shells hang side by side, and two cold showers, including a “little old ladies’ shower” where privacy is guaranteed and wetsuits prohibited. Around the corner from the campground is Port Le Hunte, a wharf and shark-netted swimming area.

There are plenty of good camping spots by water during this part of the journey. (Image: Che Chorley)

Don’t miss: Crossing the Nullarbor: your top questions answered

Sand dunes & history: Fowlers Bay

If you’re fascinated with small Aussie towns then you’ll find Fowlers Bay one of the most curious stops along the Nullarbor. Odd in appearance due to the towering sand dunes encroaching on the buildings and the empty streets, this little-known town offers a peaceful respite from the bitumen. Named by English navigator Matthew Flinders in 1802, Fowlers Bay consists of a mix of historical stone houses and ramshackle fishing shacks, with a quiet beach, wharf and general store where you’ll be able to grab a cuppa and bite to eat.

Sand dunes at Fowlers Bay Conservation Park SA

Visit the towering sand dunes of Fowlers Bay Conservation Park. (Image: Naomi Mackie/@boys_run_free)

There are few people about the day I visit, meaning we share the foreshore with only a handful of other road-trippers and enjoy a bayside lunch before scaling the nearby dunes. From the top of the dunes, there are great 360-degree views, so make sure you take your camera. This once active port remains a good place to cast a fishing line off the wharf or beach, and has a reputation for great whale watching between May and October. The dirt road in can be heavily corrugated so take it slow and give yourself plenty of time to get there.

Spot the wildlife along the road as you pass through Fowlers Bay. (Image: Kane Overall)

After Fowlers Bay, you’ll pass through the long stretch known as Yalata. Keep an eye out for the great native animal road sign that’s worth a selfie.

Roadhouse stops: Nullarbor Roadhouse & more

There are plenty of roadhouses along the Nullarbor where you can top up your fuel, stretch your legs and fill your belly. One of the best is Nullarbor Roadhouse, where the manager is friendly and you can grab a coffee and slice of cake. It’s also a good spot to stay the night (there’s a motel and campground) as there’s a tidy little bar with a pool table and pinball machine. Be sure to wander over to the still-standing original roadhouse from the 1950s before moving on. Another great roadhouse full of character is Cocklebiddy Motel, over the border in WA. Again, there’s a quirky little bar and diner.

Nullarbor Roadhouse is one of the best places to stay or stop for food when crossing the Nullarbor. (Image: Michael Waterhouse Photography)

Caiguna is a somewhat weird stop and reminiscent of the roadside motels you see in American horror films – though, I’m sure they’re not like that inside – and besides, some might find that concept thrilling. Although the roadhouse itself is large and clean, the playground in front is a little dilapidated and looks somewhat unsafe; best not to linger.

The end of the line: Norseman

Norseman marks the end of the Nullarbor but it’s no oasis. This town is tiny and travellers still have a couple of hours’ driving before reaching the worthy stops of Kalgoorlie to the north or Esperance to the south. What Norseman is good for is more fuel, grabbing essential groceries and letting the kids run amok in the large public playground. And, of course, celebrating the official end of the Nullarbor crossing.

Continue on from Norseman to Esperance in WA.

Crossing the Nullarbor: all your top questions answered