The Quirky Places You Should Stop Along The Nullarbor

The Nullarbor crossing is infamous among road trippers, with legends of how monotonous the 1256-kilometre route across southern Australia can be. But there is plenty to surprise travellers embarking on the journey.

From cool ‘outback’ pubs and awesome ranch-style campsites to eerie horror-movie-style motels you should drive straight past, the Nullarbor is an iconic Aussie road trip that cements itself in your subconscious. Dismiss the rumours of mind-numbing boredom, get the music cranking and prepare yourself for a sometimes beautiful but often quirky journey.

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Your first stop in the east: Ceduna

There’s not much in Ceduna, South Australia, except a pretty foreshore, jetty and basic services, but it’s the last big-ish town you’ll come across before you head west and, therefore, the eastern launching point for any adventure across the Nullarbor. This is where you fill up on fuel (it’s worth comparing prices at the few service stations), stock up on groceries and ensure you have plenty of water for the journey.

Ceduna Jetty, SA — Ceduna in SA is the last big-ish town you’ll come across. (Image: South Australia Tourism Commission)

It’s also wise to pop into the Visitor Information Centre, as the staff members are a wealth of knowledge and you can pick up a detailed paper map to help you plot your route and number of travel days (four is a good amount).

Surfers’ secret: Cactus Beach

You’d be forgiven for thinking you’d stepped onto the set of a 1980s surf doco when arriving at Cactus Beach, officially called Point Sinclair Camping Ground. It’s a half-hour detour (21km) off the Eyre Highway at Penong but it’s worth it. Cactus is one of the first accommodation options after Ceduna and a highlight for any ocean-loving road-tripper.

Cactus Beach SA — Cactus Beach is a half-hour detour but worth it for the surf and camping spot. (Image: Michael Waterhouse Photography

Picture vintage caravans and 4WDs protruding from coastal scrub just metres from roaring waves that have attracted surfers for decades. Of course, you don’t have to camp here – you could just come for the surf – but the campsite is cool, with firewood topped up daily, a rudimentary camp kitchen where wetsuits and garlands of shells hang side by side, and two cold showers, including a “little old ladies’ shower" where privacy is guaranteed and wetsuits prohibited. Around the corner from the campground is Port Le Hunte, a wharf and shark-netted swimming area.

Camping at Eyre Peninsula — There are plenty of good camping spots by water during this part of the journey. (Image: Che Chorley)

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Sand dunes & history: Fowlers Bay

If you’re fascinated with small Aussie towns then you’ll find Fowlers Bay one of the most curious stops along the Nullarbor. Odd in appearance due to the towering sand dunes encroaching on the buildings and the empty streets, this little-known town offers a peaceful respite from the bitumen. Named by English navigator Matthew Flinders in 1802, Fowlers Bay consists of a mix of historical stone houses and ramshackle fishing shacks, with a quiet beach, wharf and general store where you’ll be able to grab a cuppa and bite to eat.

Sand dunes at Fowlers Bay Conservation Park SA — Visit the towering sand dunes of Fowlers Bay Conservation Park. (Image: Naomi Mackie/@boys_run_free)

There are few people about the day I visit, meaning we share the foreshore with only a handful of other road-trippers and enjoy a bayside lunch before scaling the nearby dunes. From the top of the dunes, there are great 360-degree views, so make sure you take your camera. This once active port remains a good place to cast a fishing line off the wharf or beach, and has a reputation for great whale watching between May and October. The dirt road in can be heavily corrugated so take it slow and give yourself plenty of time to get there.

Kangaroos in Fowlers Bay SA — Spot the wildlife along the road as you pass through Fowlers Bay. (Image: Kane Overall)

After Fowlers Bay, you’ll pass through the long stretch known as Yalata. Keep an eye out for the great native animal road sign that’s worth a selfie.

Roadhouse stops: Nullarbor Roadhouse & more

There are plenty of roadhouses along the Nullarbor where you can top up your fuel, stretch your legs and fill your belly. One of the best is Nullarbor Roadhouse, where the manager is friendly and you can grab a coffee and slice of cake. It’s also a good spot to stay the night (there’s a motel and campground) as there’s a tidy little bar with a pool table and pinball machine. Be sure to wander over to the still-standing original roadhouse from the 1950s before moving on. Another great roadhouse full of character is Cocklebiddy Motel, over the border in WA. Again, there’s a quirky little bar and diner.

Nullarbor Roadhouse is one of the best places to stay or stop for food when crossing the Nullarbor. (Image: Michael Waterhouse Photography)

Caiguna is a somewhat weird stop and reminiscent of the roadside motels you see in American horror films – though, I’m sure they’re not like that inside – and besides, some might find that concept thrilling. Although the roadhouse itself is large and clean, the playground in front is a little dilapidated and looks somewhat unsafe; best not to linger.

The end of the line: Norseman

Norseman marks the end of the Nullarbor but it’s no oasis. This town is tiny and travellers still have a couple of hours’ driving before reaching the worthy stops of Kalgoorlie to the north or Esperance to the south. What Norseman is good for is more fuel, grabbing essential groceries and letting the kids run amok in the large public playground. And, of course, celebrating the official end of the Nullarbor crossing.

The Esperance landscape — Continue on from Norseman to Esperance in WA.

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From the moment you arrive in Moreton Bay, stunning natural vistas, fresh and tasty dining, history and more invite you to stay and play.

Untouched national park, mirror-like lagoons and endless stretches of beaches all make Moreton Bay experiences feel like you’ve stumbled across a secret Queenslanders collectively vowed not to tell. Yet it’s easily accessible. Explore further and discover hinterland farms, ancient rainforest, fresh seafood and more: there’s something on offer for every pace, interest and generation.

Just 20 minutes from Brisbane Airport, it’s hard to believe how underrated this Queensland getaway is. Here’s your ultimate guide to rediscover play with unmissable experiences in Moreton Bay.

1. G’Day Adventure Tours, Bribie Island

G’Day Adventure Tours’ Sea to Table Experience should be your first agenda item in Moreton Bay. Take a 4WD journey through the sandy tracks of Bribie Island’s beaches to the still, glassy waters of the island’s lagoons. Glide over perfect replicas of paperbarks and fluffy blue clouds mirrored in the lagoon waters in your kayak. Listen as native birdsong echoes around you.

Then, it’s on to Fort Bribie. During the Second World War, these concrete bunkers – now slowly being enveloped by the dunes – were the last line of defence for Moreton Bay.

End the day with a sun-dappled beach picnic of locally caught Queensland prawns and famous Moreton Bay bugs. As you head home, watch the dolphins playfully dart in and out of the surf.

2. Morgan’s Seafood at Scarborough

Right on the Scarborough Boat Harbour, you’ll find Morgan’s Seafood . Between the luxury yachts, you’ll also spot trawlers and fishermen delivering their day’s catch right to Morgan’s. The family-owned and operated spot is one of the best places to try the region’s eponymous Moreton Bay bug. Or, sample more of the area’s direct-from-the-boat seafood fresh at their oyster and sushi bar. If you’re lucky, your visit might coincide with a day they’ve caught tuna.

Picture fish caught that day, prepared and then served to you as fresh sashimi as the sun sets over the unique silhouette of the Glasshouse Mountains.

3. Woorim Beach, Bribie Island

On Bribie’s eastern coastline, you’ll find Woorim Beach : aka the closest surf beach to Brisbane. Find a place on the sand by the patrolled area or wander further south to find a quiet spot and while the day away between the shaded dunes, the pages of your book and the peaceful sound of rolling waves.

Ask any local where to grab lunch, and they’ll direct you to Bribie Island Surf Club Bistro . Tuck into a fresh, local seafood platter, just metres from the beach.

4. D’Aguilar National Park

D’Aguilar National Park is a 40,000-hectare slice of greenery that stretches from urban Brisbane right up to Woodford (home of the Woodford Folk Festival). The vast expanse of park is home to ancient rainforests, eucalypt forests and shaded swimming spots hidden within gorges and under waterfalls. The area is significant for the Jinibara and Turrbal people, with ceremonial bora rings and dreaming trails all found within the park.

Carve out some time in your itinerary to explore the park’s many trails. The Maiala day-use area is the perfect starting point for walks for all levels of ability.

5. Arcade Wine Bar

arcade wine bar moreton bay — Sit down to a menu inspired by Italy.

Opposite the Redcliffe Jetty and down a laneway, you’ll find an unassuming wine bar. Venture inside and quickly fall in love with Arcade Wine Bar , one of the region’s most beloved local haunts.

Owners Danilo and Matt have a combined 50 years of sommelier experience, which they have poured into the menu, styling and wine list. More than just a hole-in-the-wall wine bar, Arcade Wine is an enoteca (a wine repository), whose walls are lined with bottles upon bottles of Italian wine varietals from every corner of Italy.

Settle in with a wine and work your way through the menu inspired by Danilo’s native Italy: traditional meatballs, their quick-to-sell-out terrine, or a selection of Italian cheeses, charcuterie and arancini.

6. Wamuran & Loop Rail Trail

Away from the ocean, tucked in the hinterland, is the Wamuran & Loop Rail Trail . Perfect for cyclists or walkers, the trail was built to showcase the history of the Caboolture to Kilcoy rail corridor (last operating in 1964) and makes for the perfect family day out. The trail runs for 10.5km and connects Wamuran and Caboolture via an accessible path.

Pass through former railroad, bridges and shaded bushland as you cut from A to B. Plus, visit in winter for a detour along the way to one of the many pick-your-own strawberry farms.

7. Farm Visits

Beaches, mountains and history make an enticing combination. But Moreton Bay also brings hinterland, family-friendly farms to the table. Trevena Glen is one of the area’s most loved, with bunnies, ponies, sheep, alpacas (and more) available to visit for the kids. For the adults, book a horse-riding session and be treated to a grazing platter as you watch the sun set over the mountains of D’Aguilar National Park.

At White Ridge Farm , find camels, putt-putt, train and tractor rides and all kinds of animals. The entire farm is paved, making it accessible for all.

8. Miss Sprinkles

Miss Sprinkles Gelato moreton bay — Pick your scoop at Miss Sprinkles Gelato.

An ice cream at the beach is one of life’s most perfect pleasures. While in town, stop by Miss Sprinkles for the locals’ pick of homemade gelato on the Scarborough foreshore.

The gelato here is made the authentic Italian way and scooped up just across from the beach. Or, settle in at their kitschy pink wooden tables for traditional gelato in the sunshine. Aside from the homemade gelato, you’ll also find tarts, pies and even doggie gelato.

To start planning your Moreton Bay trip, or for more information, head to visitmoretonbay.com.au.

The top places you should stop along the Nullarbor