Where to eat, stay and play in Phillip Island

A thriving hub of native wildlife, pristine beaches and rich local produce, Phillip Island has remained relatively removed from the mainland, in both a geographical and figurative sense.

Where is it

Situated on Victoria’s Bass Coastline, 140 kilometres southeast of Melbourne, Phillip Island is neighboured by Mornington Peninsula, Western Port Bay and Bass Strait.

How to get there

As one of few islands you can drive to, a road trip to Phillip Island (PI) takes about one-and-a-half hours from Melbourne along the South Gippsland Highway, linked via a 640-metre bridge. Otherwise, Inter Island Ferries run daily between Stony Point (on Mornington Peninsula) and Cowes (PI).

“There is nothing as striking as walking to the entrance and taking in the breathtaking expanse of beach and ocean" – Kim Storey

Public transport on the island itself is limited so driving is ideal, but if you get stuck Phillip Island Bus Service travels between Wonthaggi and Cowes every day.

Why Phillip Island is so great

Few places this small can offer so much to such a spectrum of travellers. Spread across 100 square kilometres is a population of around 7000 people (although up to 3.5 million people visit over the course of one year), but there’s an abundance of wildlife. Be it flippers, fins or feathers, there’s an animal encounter for all ages (more on that later).

The Nobbies is a picturesque rocky headland at the southwestern tip of Phillip Island out over the Bass Strait. Located near the Phillip Island penguin parade.

The stunning beaches are another big drawcard, ranging from surfing hotspots and family-friendly flagged sections to private pockets of coastal paradise. But aside from the usual tourist must-dos are some unexpected gems like the National Vietnam Veterans Museum.

Best of all, PI still has that familiar country-town feel about it, where the locals are only too happy to offer advice on what to see, where and when to go and how to get there so you don’t miss out.

Where to eat & drink on Phillip Island

Beach HQ

Dine out on the terrace and enjoy water views of Cowes foreshore beach, Westernport Bay, French Island and the Mornington Peninsula at Beach HQ. The menu offers a range of seafood and modern Australian dishes to choose from. Share the seafood platter and expect a bounty of Kilpatrick oysters, cold king prawns, chilli mussels with bread, battered fish, prawns and scallops, and salt and pepper calamari with a side of chips and salad, and a range of condiments to drizzle it all in. The wine list features a range of Phillip Island and Gippsland wines to match your meal.

Cape Kitchen

The Cape Kitchen boasts uninterrupted views overlooking the Southern Ocean, a sleek and modern dining space and an inviting verandah. The team is focused on using the best quality produce available from regional, Victorian and Australian suppliers.

Start your day with the Cape Kitchen mimosa alongside a plate of fluffy ricotta and buttermilk hotcakes topped with caramelised banana, blueberry compote, honey and lavender mascarpone and a sprinkling of toasted pecans. If you prefer a savoury start to the day, try the sweetcorn, pea and zucchini fritters with poached eggs and vine-ripened cherry tomatoes all drizzled in mint and honey yoghurt. Return for lunch and a killer dessert menu which may include the likes of eton mess or an espresso creme brulee.

Phillip Island Chocolate Factory

Then for something sweet, Phillip Island Chocolate Factory is hard to beat. Amongst the truffles and clusters is the Phillip Island Chocolate Factory exhibition, featuring interactive displays and machines; one of which allows visitors to make their own chocolate bar. There are also chocolaty reproductions of masterpieces such as Michelangelo’s David statue. Oh, and the chocky is pretty amazing too!

Ocean Reach Brewing

What started as a passion project of small-batch brews out of a home garage, grew into the family-run Ocean Reach Brewing. The fully-fledged brewhouse now sells a range of locally-brewed beers and a more experimental range of seasonal beers – which can include the likes of a hazy pineapple IPA or peaches and cream sour. Beers can be purchased online, or stop by the taphouse for a takeaway beer or wine and pair it with one of their juicy burgers or other small bites.

Phillip Island Winery

The island’s mild weather and rich volcanic soil allow for some delicious cool-climate wines. Among the makers is Phillip Island Winery near the Grand Prix Circuit. Producing a range of whites and reds, their 2008 Estate Chardonnay is especially impressive, awarded 94/100 by wine guru James Halliday. The cellar door is a cute cottage-style building, offering wine tastings, a cosy log fire, local Gippsland cheeses and smoked trout and homemade dips.

Purple Hen Winery

Alternatively, find the Purple Hen winery near Rhyll. Planted across five hectares of vineyards, the winery largely produces pinot noir and chardonnay – the pinot is especially good! The cellar door is open five or seven days a week depending on the season, offering wine tastings, cheese platters and great views.

Rusty Water Brewery

But for those who favour beer for a beverage, there’s the Rusty Water Brewery. With five of their own handcrafted brews on tap, they also offer other boutique beers such as Prickly Moses and Matso’s. The restaurant menu features plenty of hearty dishes to taste test too.

Top things to do on Phillip Island

Penguin Parade

This should definitely top the must-do list, watching on at sunset as rafts of little (fairy) penguins return from a day at sea fishing, waddling ashore and back to their burrows.

Phillip Island Nature Parks offer a range of tours that vary in intimacy and cost, but I highly recommend the Ultimate Adventure Tour. It allows a group of fewer than 10 people to sit on the beach, equipped with specialty torches and infrared goggles, and watch on as these clumsy but cute critters waddle past, calling out to their waiting families. Despite full bellies and tiny legs, they somehow manage to climb sand dunes and walk up to two kilometres each night. During the tour’s walk back to the centre, you’ll also see loads of eager chicks and night-time lovers, which is just as exciting as the beachfront viewing.

Cruise to Seal Rocks

Wildlife Coast Cruises offers a two-hour tour to one of Australia’s largest wild fur seal colonies at the aptly named Seal Rocks. The boat drifts within metres of the rock formation, where there can be hundreds, if not thousands of seals, from beastly bulls to playful pups. As naturally inquisitive creatures, many will jump into the water and right up to the vessel, while others will happily continue sunbaking.

Visit Nobbies Centre

With panoramic views overlooking The Nobbies, this free-to-enter centre showcases the local marine life. There are many interactive displays, including a Big Brother-like camera that was installed at Seal Rocks, which visitors can navigate from the centre to take photos. The centre is also a handy stop-off for families, offering a café, bathrooms and a children’s play area.

Hot tip: When leaving, take a different route home and drive along an unsealed road that follows the coastline to Phelans Bluff and loops back to the main road. The turn off is within the centre’s car park but there’s limited signage so it can be easily missed. Drive slowly, take in the sights, and keep an eye out for the blowhole and local wildlife, especially wallabies and Cape Barren geese.

Koala Conservation Centre

Stroll along the treetop boardwalk and see up to 30 resident koalas as they doze amongst the gums. The boardwalk includes strategically positioned information signs, pointing to the koalas’ favourite branches for easy spotting. Inside the centre are more displays on these native marsupials, with information about their evolution, breeding habits and conservation efforts.

Feed pelicans and stingrays

Every day at noon, the mainland side of Phillip Island Bridge becomes a feeding frenzy for pelicans and stingrays at the water’s edge. Visitors can throw fish scraps to stingrays, even pat them, or watch on as nearby pelicans are fed and informative talks are given. Best of all, it’s free.

Make tracks to the Grand Prix circuit

Sandwiched between paddocks of grazing cattle and the calm blue Bass Strait, this buzzing (sometimes screeching) motor circuit is a stark contrast from the serene surroundings. Here, visitors can follow in the footsteps of racing superstars with a Guided Circuit Tour, which includes access to restricted areas such as the pit roof complex and the winner’s podium. Adrenalin junkies can strap in for three high-speed Hot Laps around the circuit in a race car, at the hands of an experienced driver.

Otherwise, next door are the Champ Go Karts, which run on a 760-metre scale replica of the real circuit. There are tandem karts available for youngsters, and each driver is given a personalised lap-time printout at the end.

Phillip Island Go Karts — Go Kart hot laps on a mini replica of Phillip Island’s Grand Prix circuits.

Swim, Surf or Snorkel

With over 100 kilometres of coastline defining PI, there is no shortage of swimming holes. It can range from pounding surf at hotspots like Surf Beach and Flynns Reef, to sheltered bays suitable for young families at Smiths Beach or Cowes Main Beach on the north side.

Depending on weather conditions, snorkelling is also available. The locals recommend Red Rocks Point and Churchill Island. However, Woolamai Beach is a must as a scenic, surfable and patrolled area, not far from The Pinnacles, a stunning rock formation on the southeast tip of the island. Visitors can walk up the beach to Magic Lands before taking an inland walking track that continues up to the highest point on the island, overlooking the formation.

A visit to Woolamai Beach is a must as a scenic, surfable and patrolled area.

Churchill Island Heritage Farm

An off-shoot of PI, Churchill Island is where the first farm in Victoria was established. Today it comprises native wetlands and numerous walks, but the main attraction is Churchill Island Heritage Farm. Surrounded by heritage gardens and a working farm, the property also includes a historic homestead with authentic room displays, a licensed café overlooking the bay and gift shop. Daily displays are held throughout the property including sheep shearing and cow milking, plus an animal nursery. Great for little ones!

Fly high in a helicopter

Get your bearings from above in a scenic flight around the island with Phillip Island Helicopters. There are seven routes to choose from, taking in major local attractions like The Pinnacles, Penguin Parade, Grand Prix Circuit and The Nobbies. There are other heli-adventures available, such as packaged deals to Bass Valley Estate Wines, French Island and skydiving.

Vietnam Veterans War Museum

An unexpected find is the National Vietnam Veterans’ War Museum , dedicated to preserving and exhibiting memorabilia from the war. With over 5000 artefacts, photographs and displays, some aspects of the museum are quite confronting. Outside are the biggest items, including a Centurion tank and a Wessex helicopter. There is an entrance fee into the museum, but it is well worth a look.

Where to stay on Phillip Island

There are many accommodation options available throughout the island, ranging from boutique B&Bs to budget caravan parks.

The Island Accommodation

A particularly good starting point is the new The Island Accommodation – part of the Big Wave Complex which also encompasses a café and surf shop. The accommodation itself is made up of studio suites, family rooms and multi-share rooms, catering for couples, families and backpackers travelling on a budget. Clean and welcoming, facilities include well-equipped kitchens for self-catering and the Big Wave Café next door for a quick bite.

The hosts are especially helpful, giving all guests an easy-to-follow illustrated map and a run down on all the must-see-and-dos.

Silverwater Resort

For something a bit more upmarket, Silverwater Resort is ahhh-mazing. Located on the highway right before the Phillip Island Bridge, Silverwater Resort offers one to three bedroom apartments, all luxurious, spacious and fully self-contained. Expect private balconies, air conditioning, flat-screen TVs, digital movies on demand, internet, great views and luxe furnishings. The resort also boasts heated pools, spa and sauna, tennis, basketball, volleyball and bocce courts, children’s play areas, a lounge bar and the Watermark Restaurant.

Makers, bakers, artists, chefs, crafters – Ballarat and its surrounds are overflowing with creative spirits. All dedicated to keeping traditional skills alive for a city that is humming with artful energy.

Modern makers: a new generation of artists and artisans

“Keeping craft alive is a noble cause,” says Jess Cameron-Wootten, a charming and passionate master leathercrafter and cordwainer, who handmakes traditional leather boots and shoes in Ballarat’s old Gun Cotton Goods Store.

Ballarat was recognised in 2019 as a UNESCO Creative City of Craft and Folk Art, and today it’s a place where craft traditions converge with contemporary needs. Nothing quite captures this convergence as a visit to Wootten , the workshop and store of Jess Cameron-Wootten and his partner Krystina Menegazzo.

heritage buildings in Ballarat — Ballarat’s streets are lined with heritage buildings. (Image: Matt Dunne)

Jess’s father was an artisan bootmaker, or cordwainer. Now Jess and Krys and their small team of artisans continue the tradition, but with a modern spin. The company’s boots and shoes, made completely from scratch, are renowned for their quality and longevity. Wootten also craft shoes, bags, belts, leather aprons, wallets and more.

Cosy beanies, gloves, alpaca socks, “unbreakable” shoelaces and various other goods – many from local craftspeople and small-scale makers – fill the shop’s shelves. “We’re always happy to support a mate,” says Jess. “People love to see the workshop and where things are made. Our clients care about quality and sustainability,” Krys comments. The company slogan ‘Made for generations’ says it all.

Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery. (Image: Tara Moore)

For Ruby Pilven, craft is also in the DNA – both her parents were potters and with her latest porcelain ceramics, Ruby’s young daughter has been helping add colour to the glazes. “I grew up watching my parents in the workshop – I’ve always been doing ceramics,” she says, although her Visual Arts degree was in printmaking. That printmaking training comes through particularly in the rich layering of pattern. Her audacious colour, unexpected shapes and sudden pops of 12-carat gold are contemporary, quirky – and joyful.

You can see Ruby’s handcrafted ceramics, and work by other local and regional artists, at Ross Creek Gallery , a light-filled space surrounded by serene bushland, across from the mudbrick house her parents built in the 1980s. A 10-minute drive from Ballarat, it’s a tangible link to the region’s well-established craft traditions.

How Ballarat is preserving the past

artisans making crafts at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat — The Centre for Rare Arts & Forgotten Trades holds workshops to preserve crafts and skills.

While tradition is ongoing, there’s a danger that many of these specific type of skills and knowledge are fading as an older generation passes on. Step forward the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades .

The seven purpose-built studios occupy a fabulous modern building adjacent to Sovereign Hill, with state-of-the-art facilities, enormous windows and landscape views across to Warrenheip and Wadawurrung Country.

artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat — Check out artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.

Practising artisans run hands-on workshops. Fancy making your own medieval armour? Or trying your hand at blacksmithing, spinning wool, plaiting leather, weaving cane or craft a knife? Book a class and learn how. “It’s about creating awareness and also sharing knowledge and skills before they are lost,” explains Deborah Klein, the centre manager.

A city steeped in food and flavours

Chef José Fernandez preparing American streetfood at Pancho — Chef José Fernandez creates vibrant South American street food at Pancho. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

One skill that hasn’t been lost is that of cooking. Ballarat’s burgeoning gastronomy scene runs the gamut from an artisan bakery (the atmospheric 1816 Bakehouse) to cool coffee shops, speakeasy cocktail bars and distilleries to fine-dining venues. But I’m still surprised to find Pancho , José Fernandez’s South American street food restaurant, serving fried cheese tequeños, fiery fish tacos, Argentinian grilled chicken.

The room is as lively as the food – a whirl of colour filled with gifted and thrifted paintings, photos, tchotchkes (trinkets), plants. There’s a Mexican abuela aesthetic going on here. Even before the music and mezcal kick in, it’s fun. Heads up on the drinks menu – an authentic selection of mezcal, tequila, South American wines and Mexican cerveza.

a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits, Ballarat — Enjoy a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

The spirit is willing, so after lunch we head towards the gold rush-era Ballarat train station and across the line to the old 1860s Goods Shed for Itinerant Spirits . At one end, a massive German copper still looms behind a wall of glass. The fit-out embraces deep olive-green tones, original bluestone walls, steamer trunks as coffee tables, heritage timber floors, oversized lamp shades and cognac-hued modernist leather seating.

the Itinerant Spirits Distillery & Cocktail Bar, Ballarat — The distillery operates from an old goods shed. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Gallivanter Gin, Vansetter Vodka and Wayfarer Whiskey – the key spirits distilled – star at the bar. The spirits are crafted using grains from the Wimmera Mallee region, and native botanicals foraged in the Grampians. Seasonal cocktails are inspired by local people and places (I loved The Headland, inspired by Sovereign Hill and flavoured with old-fashioned raspberry drops). Sample the spirits, and join a cocktail masterclass or a distillery tour. It’s a seductive setting – you’ll likely find yourself ordering a charcuterie platter or pizza as the evening progresses.

The Ballarat stay combining history and luxury

one of the rooms at Hotel Vera, Ballarat — The rooms at Hotel Vera have a contemporary style. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

New lives for old buildings keeps history alive. Vera, Ballarat’s boutique five-star hotel, has taken it to the next level: it’s a palimpsest, a subtle layering of early 1900s and 1930s Art Deco architecture with a sleek new wing. There are seven spacious suites, each a dramatically different colour, with designer chairs, blissful bathrooms. High-end pottery and hand-picked artworks imbue the spaces with personality.

Vera’s intimate, award-winning restaurant, Babae, is subtly theatrical with sheer drapes and gallery lighting, its bespoke timber furniture and brass-edged marble bench setting the stage for food with a sharp regional focus. “We have goat’s cheese from a local supplier, handmade granola from local Vegas & Rose, truffles from nearby Black Cat Truffles, fresh food from our garden, and regional wines,” says joint owner David Cook-Doulton.

Celebrating the local makers, bakers, growers and producers, and the master chefs who work their magic is all part of the rich tapestry that links Ballarat’s history to its vibrant present.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

It’s 90 minutes from Melbourne, either on the Western Freeway, or hop on a V/Line train from Southern Cross Station.

Staying there

Hotel Vera is a centrally located Art Deco boutique hotel. Consider Hotel Provincial , which feels like a sleek country house, but with its own restaurant, Lola.

a contemporary room at Hotel Provincial, Ballarat — Hotel Provincial has country house vibes.

Eating there

dining at Mr Jones, Ballarat — The table is set at Mr Jones. (Image: Tony Evans/ Visit Victoria)

Culinary whiz Damien Jones helms Chef’s Hat winner Mr Jones Dining with quiet assurance. His modern Asian food is deceptively simple with deep, intense flavours. Low-key, laid-back ambience, lovely staff, thoughtful wine list.

Cocktails are definitely a thing in Ballarat. Reynard (fox in French) is foxy indeed, a clubby space with top-notch cocktails and small bites. Grainery Lane is extravagantly OTT with its massive 1880s bar, myriad chandeliers, brass gin still, Asian-inspired food and lavish cocktails.

dining at Grainery Lane, Ballarat — Dining at Grainery Lane.

Playing there

a laneway filled with artworks in Ballarat — An artful laneway in the city. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Check out local design legend Travis Price’s wall murals in Hop Lane with its colourful canopy of brollies, or in Main Street. The Art Gallery of Ballarat’s off-site Backspace Gallery showcases early-career artists in a stylish, contemporary space. First Nations-owned and run Perridak Arts connects people to place, bringing together art and crafts in this gallery/shop.

a woman admiring artworks at Perridak Arts Gallery — Perridak Arts is a First Nations-run gallery. (Image: Tony Evans)

The wineries of the Pyrenees are close at hand with their welcoming cellar doors and robust reds. Join a behind-the-scenes tour at the Centre for Gold Rush Collections .

Don’t forget the giant bluestone Kryal Castle , ‘the land of adventure’, for a little medieval magic, and not just for the kids: get ready for Highland-style feasting, jousting, even overnight stays.