Taking the route less travelled along the Great Ocean Road

The Great Ocean Road is a Victorian icon. But there’s more to this stretch of coast than its famous rock formations, from volcanoes to hot springs and paddling with fur seals.

Wind tugs my hair horizontal atop the crater rim. It’s a commanding outlook 240 metres above the volcanic plains that peers into a 90-metre-deep basin. Jagged nubs of reddish-brown scoria protruding through the grass are unyielding beneath my runners and not one tree marks the landscape, an expansive emptiness overhung by a vast blue sky.

For a few fleeting moments, Mt Elephant in Western Victoria brings to mind the windblown Mongolian Steppe. But this hour-long walk is the first of many unexpected moments I’ll experience while exploring the Great Ocean Road with a friend over the next four days.

I should probably know this place – I only live 90 minutes away – but, like many who visit the region, I’ve been distracted by the spotlight shining on its most famous drawcards, such as the iconic 12 Apostles. The Great Ocean Road is a state treasure, tackled by many as a day-long scenic drive punctuated with pauses at myriad lookouts, striking rock formations and idyllic beaches. But its lesser-known features can be unearthed when extending a visit over multiple days. Mt Elephant being a case in point.

It was returned First World War servicemen who built the Great Ocean Road (largely by pick and shovel), creating simultaneously the world’s largest war memorial and a gloriously scenic drive that stretches 240 kilometres between the surf mecca of Torquay and Warrnambool.

From craft breweries to hot springs

the Noodledoof brewery and distillery, Great Ocean Road itinerary — Noodledoof is based in Koroit and is both a brewery and distillery.

We fast-track inland to Noodledoof, a craft brewery and distillery that makes for a convenient pit stop in Koroit. After devouring a pulled pork ‘sando’ with smoky apple rub and slaw, we head towards our next discovery. Victoria’s Western Volcanic Plains is the world’s third largest volcanic plain and the origins of Tower Hill Wildlife Reserve are abundantly clear from first sight. The small island of conical hills sits adrift within the crater lake of a larger volcanic rim, connected by a narrow isthmus and creating an almost isolated reserve for native Australian wildlife.

two kangaroos are standing in the grass near the ocean at Tower Hill Wildlife Reserve — Tower Hill Wildlife Reserve is home to many native Australian animals. (Image: Ben Savage)

We’re barely parked before noticing a dozen people with their heads tilted towards the treetops and the koalas scattered there. One koala clings to a thin branch, unhurriedly plucking fresh gum leaves while its perch swings wildly in the 60-kilometre-per-hour gusts. Others are wedged in more solid forks, limbs dangling lazily. On the ground, a pair of emus pace slowly, feathered skirts lofting like flouncy tutus.

the volcanic crater at Tower Hill Wildlife Reserve — The sanctuary sits in a large volcanic crater near the Great Ocean Road.. (Image: Ben Savage)

Four walks here range from 30 minutes to an hour, tracing across remnant lava flow and around wetlands, lakes and craters. Echidnas, kangaroos, turtles and bird sightings are common.

From up high, the distant big blue of the ocean beckons, leading us to Warrnambool and the Deep Blue Hotel & Hot Springs . There’s an immediate sense of calm to be found in the hotel’s seafront location, moments from coastal paths, boardwalks and the sheltered Stingray Bay.

food and drinks on the table at Tides Cafe, Bar & Restaurant, Great Ocean Road itinerary — Drift into Tides Cafe, Bar & Restaurant to enjoy nourishing dishes inspired by local produce.

Even more calming is the outdoor bathing sanctuary, filled with geothermal mineral water pumped from 850 metres underground. We’re booked for a twilight bathing session, so a quick bite at the hotel’s Tides Cafe, Bar & Restaurant seems a good idea, but we soon lament not having more time (and belly room) to savour our whipped ricotta with charred sourdough, soba noodles and wakame salad, and chorizo and manchego arancini (or “balls of heaven" as our waiter calls them).

a woman soaking in an outdoor hotspring at Deep Blue Hotel — Soak in the outdoor hot springs while staying at the Deep Blue Hotel. (Image: Caitlyn Leggett/The Wanderlust Times)

Really, we’re just swapping one delight for another though. Amid the landscaped maze of steaming pools and caves is a waterfall raining drops so heavy they make my scalp tingle, sending shivers down my entire body. In another pool I’m cradled, weightless and warm. As time passes, the chatter quietens as bathers slip into peaceful meditation.

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Seeing the 12 Apostles anew

the iconic 12 Apostles, Great Ocean Road itinerary — The iconic 12 Apostles (of which seven remain) stand like sentinels in the wild Southern Ocean. (Image: Kirk Richards)

Between the Bay of Islands and the 12 Apostles is where the majority of scenic lookouts are. And though stopping for every one of them requires pulling over what seems like every 10 minutes, all are eminently worthy.

No matter how many times I see The Razorback, a sheer limestone wall rising from pounding seas, I’m in awe. Then there’s London Bridge, The Grotto, The Arch, Loch Ard Gorge (where the only two survivors of the Loch Ard shipwreck crawled ashore in 1878) and many more.

the Loch Ard Gorge, Great Ocean Road itinerary — Loch Ard Gorge is on Victoria’s Shipwreck Coast. (Image: Mark Watson)

I must have visited the 12 Apostles a dozen times, but this visit is different. Most witness the string of 45-metre-high water-bound limestone towers from an enormous cantilevered viewing platform – sunsets are especially captivating – but 12 Apostles Helicopters show me another vantage point, broaching the sheer fringe of the cliffs and out over the Southern Ocean.

the 12 Apostles at sunset — Seven of the original 12 Apostles are still standing. (Image: Adeline & Lumiere)

Through a bubble front window, wrapping head to toe, the coastline is revealed in unfettered glory, its endless deep coves and rock formations nibbled by the eroding power of waves. In winter, whales might be spotted. “See that hole?" our pilot points to a sea-bound rock arch. “This chopper would fit through it, rotors and all."

Only by getting closer can we understand the scale of the place. A walk down the Gibson Steps leads us to a wild surf beach beneath 70-metre cliffs so sheer it’s as though they have been cut with a knife. For a while I sit on the sand and take it all in, the frothing surf and fragrant ocean mist; Gog and Magog, two rock stacks standing as offshore sentinels.

To sailors in the 1800s and 1900s, this was an inhospitable coastline that wrecked hundreds of ships. But Port Campbell, set in a deep cove, feels like the haven it’s been for centuries. Now, its sheltered beach is accompanied by one main street and the scenic Port Campbell Discovery Walk, which eases over a suspension bridge and around the clifftops.

The town is entirely walkable, allowing us to down car keys and surrender ourselves to the hospitality of Waves Port Campbell and its spacious spa suites (there are cliff views from my bed), a buzzing restaurant and bar. A minute’s walk away, the characterful Port Campbell Hotel entices for a cosy after-dinner vino and chat with the locals.

The hidden side of the Great Ocean Road

the exterior of Timboon Railway Shed Distillery — Enjoy a tipple at Timboon Railway Shed Distillery. (Image: Tourism Australia/Cameron Murray)

While this region of Victoria is synonymous with scenic drives, two-wheeled forays show another side. Stretching 20 kilometres between Port Campbell and quaint Timboon is the 12 Apostles Trail, an easy ride (especially with e-bikes from Ride With Us ) through dairy farmland and scented forest, with Schulz Organic Creamery & Cafe lingering midway. Organic winery Babche, Timboon Railway Shed Distillery and the legendary Timboon Fine Ice Cream await at the finish.

three people riding bikes from Ride With Us on a trail in the woods, Great Ocean Road Itinerary — Hire a bike from Ride With Us to tackle the trail from Timboon to Port Campbell. (Image: Belinda Van Zanen)

When we later explore some of the roughly 70 kilometres of mountain bike trails scribbled across Forrest in the Otway Ranges, with Michelle Davidson from Forrest MTB Hire , I’m expecting – somewhat presumptuously – another e-bike, but full leg power is required. Fortunately, the gears are so good and the trails so forgiving (plenty of switchbacks) that I’m soon grinning my way over gentle roller coasters between the tree ferns and grass trees.

Tight turns have always been my nemesis, but Michelle’s an expert coach and advises to look beyond the apex of the bend and “lead with my belly button". It’s an instant success. “Anyone can ride here," she says. “The trails are wider and shorter. I’ve had women in their sixties learn here."

a lush tree canopy at Otway Fly Treetop Adventures — Trek through the trees at Otway Fly Treetop Adventures. (Image: Mark Chew/Visit Victoria)

Mountain biking aside, the Otways are also renowned for lush rainforest, waterfalls and walks. But nothing compares to the perspectives from Otway Fly Treetop Adventures , where a 600-metre elevated walkway enables a slow contemplation of rarely seen views.

We come face to face with epiphytes and the mighty trunks of myrtle beech and blackwood, and peer over the circular crowns of tree ferns 30 metres below on the forest floor. Somewhere, a creek rushes; birds sing. It’s hard to tell whether the tree trunks are swaying or we are. I don’t want to come down.

southern rock lobster on a plate at Apollo Bay Fishermen’s Co-Op — Tuck into southern rock lobster at Apollo Bay Fishermen’s Co-Op. (Image: Adeline & Lumiere)

Eventually we do, returning to the blue at the laid-back fishing port (read: seafood heaven) of Apollo Bay and its glorious three-kilometre beach. Our cabin at Marengo Family Caravan Park is a stone’s throw from coastal platforms and pools just begging to be explored. Offshore, roughly 200 Australian fur seals gather, which we encounter twirling beneath our boats the next morning on a paddle with Apollo Bay Surf & Kayak .

the exterior of Apollo Bay Fishermen’s Co-Op, Great Ocean Road itinerary — The co-op supplies some of Australia’s best restaurants. (Image: Adeline & Lumiere)

I’ve gone from visiting the region in one day to exploring it over four, yet still wish I had more time. Not just to see more but to do less; all those beaches deserving of a solid linger. Next time…

an Australian fur seal swimming in the ocean — Spot Australian fur seals on a paddle with Apollo Bay Surf & Kayak. (Image: Tourism Australia/Cameron Murray)

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A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

A 90-minute drive west from Melbourne/Naarm leads to Torquay and the start of the Great Ocean Road.

Playing there

There are dozens of walks, beaches and coastal lookouts to explore. Aerial views with Otway Fly Treetop Adventures and 12 Apostles Helicopters offer a different perspective. The Forrest MTB Hire team are the experts on Forrest’s 70 kilometres of mountain bike trails. Apollo Bay Surf & Kayak enable close encounters with seals.

Staying there

the Deep Blue Hotel & Hot Springs near Warrnambool’s foreshore — Deep Blue Hotel & Hot Springs is a stone’s throw from Warrnambool’s foreshore. (Image: Caitlyn Leggett/The Wanderlust Times)

Hot springs are on tap at Deep Blue Hotel & Hot Springs . Waves Port Campbell has spacious suites (most with spa baths) and one of the town’s best eateries. For absolute waterfront, the campsites and cabins at Marengo Family Caravan Park in Apollo Bay can’t be beaten.

Eating there

a spread of food on the table at The Perch Lavers Hill, Great Ocean Road itinerary — The Perch Lavers Hill adheres to an ‘eat well, feel well’ philosophy. (Image: Taryn Elder)

Good food is plentiful, with notable options including The Perch Lavers Hill , beachfront Pavilion Cafe & Bar in Warrnambool , Port Campbell’s Grassroots Deli Cafe and Apollo Bay Fishermen’s Co-op .

Makers, bakers, artists, chefs, crafters – Ballarat and its surrounds are overflowing with creative spirits. All dedicated to keeping traditional skills alive for a city that is humming with artful energy.

Modern makers: a new generation of artists and artisans

“Keeping craft alive is a noble cause,” says Jess Cameron-Wootten, a charming and passionate master leathercrafter and cordwainer, who handmakes traditional leather boots and shoes in Ballarat’s old Gun Cotton Goods Store.

Ballarat was recognised in 2019 as a UNESCO Creative City of Craft and Folk Art, and today it’s a place where craft traditions converge with contemporary needs. Nothing quite captures this convergence as a visit to Wootten , the workshop and store of Jess Cameron-Wootten and his partner Krystina Menegazzo.

heritage buildings in Ballarat — Ballarat’s streets are lined with heritage buildings. (Image: Matt Dunne)

Jess’s father was an artisan bootmaker, or cordwainer. Now Jess and Krys and their small team of artisans continue the tradition, but with a modern spin. The company’s boots and shoes, made completely from scratch, are renowned for their quality and longevity. Wootten also craft shoes, bags, belts, leather aprons, wallets and more.

Cosy beanies, gloves, alpaca socks, “unbreakable” shoelaces and various other goods – many from local craftspeople and small-scale makers – fill the shop’s shelves. “We’re always happy to support a mate,” says Jess. “People love to see the workshop and where things are made. Our clients care about quality and sustainability,” Krys comments. The company slogan ‘Made for generations’ says it all.

Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery. (Image: Tara Moore)

For Ruby Pilven, craft is also in the DNA – both her parents were potters and with her latest porcelain ceramics, Ruby’s young daughter has been helping add colour to the glazes. “I grew up watching my parents in the workshop – I’ve always been doing ceramics,” she says, although her Visual Arts degree was in printmaking. That printmaking training comes through particularly in the rich layering of pattern. Her audacious colour, unexpected shapes and sudden pops of 12-carat gold are contemporary, quirky – and joyful.

You can see Ruby’s handcrafted ceramics, and work by other local and regional artists, at Ross Creek Gallery , a light-filled space surrounded by serene bushland, across from the mudbrick house her parents built in the 1980s. A 10-minute drive from Ballarat, it’s a tangible link to the region’s well-established craft traditions.

How Ballarat is preserving the past

artisans making crafts at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat — The Centre for Rare Arts & Forgotten Trades holds workshops to preserve crafts and skills.

While tradition is ongoing, there’s a danger that many of these specific type of skills and knowledge are fading as an older generation passes on. Step forward the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades .

The seven purpose-built studios occupy a fabulous modern building adjacent to Sovereign Hill, with state-of-the-art facilities, enormous windows and landscape views across to Warrenheip and Wadawurrung Country.

artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat — Check out artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.

Practising artisans run hands-on workshops. Fancy making your own medieval armour? Or trying your hand at blacksmithing, spinning wool, plaiting leather, weaving cane or craft a knife? Book a class and learn how. “It’s about creating awareness and also sharing knowledge and skills before they are lost,” explains Deborah Klein, the centre manager.

A city steeped in food and flavours

Chef José Fernandez preparing American streetfood at Pancho — Chef José Fernandez creates vibrant South American street food at Pancho. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

One skill that hasn’t been lost is that of cooking. Ballarat’s burgeoning gastronomy scene runs the gamut from an artisan bakery (the atmospheric 1816 Bakehouse) to cool coffee shops, speakeasy cocktail bars and distilleries to fine-dining venues. But I’m still surprised to find Pancho , José Fernandez’s South American street food restaurant, serving fried cheese tequeños, fiery fish tacos, Argentinian grilled chicken.

The room is as lively as the food – a whirl of colour filled with gifted and thrifted paintings, photos, tchotchkes (trinkets), plants. There’s a Mexican abuela aesthetic going on here. Even before the music and mezcal kick in, it’s fun. Heads up on the drinks menu – an authentic selection of mezcal, tequila, South American wines and Mexican cerveza.

a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits, Ballarat — Enjoy a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

The spirit is willing, so after lunch we head towards the gold rush-era Ballarat train station and across the line to the old 1860s Goods Shed for Itinerant Spirits . At one end, a massive German copper still looms behind a wall of glass. The fit-out embraces deep olive-green tones, original bluestone walls, steamer trunks as coffee tables, heritage timber floors, oversized lamp shades and cognac-hued modernist leather seating.

the Itinerant Spirits Distillery & Cocktail Bar, Ballarat — The distillery operates from an old goods shed. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Gallivanter Gin, Vansetter Vodka and Wayfarer Whiskey – the key spirits distilled – star at the bar. The spirits are crafted using grains from the Wimmera Mallee region, and native botanicals foraged in the Grampians. Seasonal cocktails are inspired by local people and places (I loved The Headland, inspired by Sovereign Hill and flavoured with old-fashioned raspberry drops). Sample the spirits, and join a cocktail masterclass or a distillery tour. It’s a seductive setting – you’ll likely find yourself ordering a charcuterie platter or pizza as the evening progresses.

The Ballarat stay combining history and luxury

one of the rooms at Hotel Vera, Ballarat — The rooms at Hotel Vera have a contemporary style. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

New lives for old buildings keeps history alive. Vera, Ballarat’s boutique five-star hotel, has taken it to the next level: it’s a palimpsest, a subtle layering of early 1900s and 1930s Art Deco architecture with a sleek new wing. There are seven spacious suites, each a dramatically different colour, with designer chairs, blissful bathrooms. High-end pottery and hand-picked artworks imbue the spaces with personality.

Vera’s intimate, award-winning restaurant, Babae, is subtly theatrical with sheer drapes and gallery lighting, its bespoke timber furniture and brass-edged marble bench setting the stage for food with a sharp regional focus. “We have goat’s cheese from a local supplier, handmade granola from local Vegas & Rose, truffles from nearby Black Cat Truffles, fresh food from our garden, and regional wines,” says joint owner David Cook-Doulton.

Celebrating the local makers, bakers, growers and producers, and the master chefs who work their magic is all part of the rich tapestry that links Ballarat’s history to its vibrant present.