A Road Trip Along The Great Victorian Bathing Trail

From the coast to the bush, a leisurely road trip along the Great Victorian Bathing Trail is a ticket to chill.

Ever come back from a trip feeling more frazzled than before you left? Whatever happened to chilled-out breaks that leave you feeling relaxed, rested and restored? Thankfully, Victoria is bringing back the bliss with a bounty of thermal bathing experiences from the bush to the sea connected by the Great Victorian Bathing Trail.

With Gippsland Lakes in the east, Hepburn Springs in the north, Mornington Peninsula down south and the western reaches of the Great Ocean Road, you could go wild and try them all on the mother of all road trips. Or, like me, you could choose the greatest hits of Victoria’s bathing scene to get your fill of restorative, mineral-rich waters over a few days.

Mornington Peninsula

Melburnians visit the Mornington Peninsula for many reasons, from beach walks to cellar door-hopping. But increasingly, wellness is enticing visitors to make the 90-minute drive south from the city.

Alba Thermal Springs & Spa, Fingal

Alba Thermal Springs & Spa in Fingal is Victoria’s hottest new open-air, geothermal bathing destination. Launched in late 2022, Alba is sleek, sophisticated and somewhat surprising. Stepping into the imposing, Brutalist-inspired main building (which could easily double as a modern museum or contemporary art gallery), I’m shown the way towards bathing bliss.

Alba building's main entrance — Alba’s design uses stone and concrete to express its setting in a rural context on the Mornington Peninsula. (Image: Visit Victoria)

After changing into a robe in the luxe change rooms (that are kitted out with lockers, showers and Dyson hair dryers), I sweat it out in the sauna then pool-hop for an hour or so, strolling up and down the landscaped property in search of my next hot haven. There are 22 pools of varying sizes, designs and temperatures (most are naturally heated to sit between 37°C and 41°C), but the views from the upper Cascades pool make it a stand-out.

a woman came out from the pool at Alba after taking a dip — One of a series of plunge pools at Alba, which is surrounded by drifts of native grasses. (Image: Visit Victoria)

You might not associate bathing in outdoor mineral springs with fine dining, but both concepts coexist at Alba. Melbourne chef Karen Martini has created a dining experience perfectly suited to the unique environment at Thyme restaurant. I can’t remember the last time I arrived at a nice restaurant with wet hair, sans make-up. But I see I’m in good company once I clock the other robe- and slipper-wearing diners.

a close-up shot of a dish at Thyme Restaurant — It’s Thyme for lunch. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The menu’s light, fresh dishes deftly walk the fine line between health and indulgence. There are lots of veggies and lean proteins, but you could also order yourself a sneaky schnitzel or a serving of fries. Thermal bathing is thirsty work. Fortunately, the drinks list is a mighty one. If you’re avoiding booze, order a herbal tea, chai latte, cold-pressed juice, mocktail, non-alcoholic wine or coffee from nearby roaster, Little Rebel. If you’re in the mood for a tipple, there are also wines, spritzes and cocktails on offer, including four different riffs on the martini.

After a veg-packed meal (and a cheeky glass of local white), I float up the grand, spiral staircase to the spa for a treatment that’s so good, I fall asleep mid-massage. Mission accomplished.

a man dipping in a thermal pool at Alba Thermal Springs & Spa — Alba is positioned in beautiful, landscaped gardens that reflect the wildness of the location. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Peninsula Hot Springs, Fingal

Just a few minutes down the road from Alba, which will add boutique accommodation to its offering in 2024, is Peninsula Hot Springs where I’m spending the night. A destination that has kickstarted a state-wide bathing renaissance since opening in 2005, the award-winning, bush-fringed hot springs have welcomed streams of folk from far and wide, all keen to tap into the benefits of balneotherapy.

two women dipping in one of the pools at Peninsula Hot Springs — Peninsula Hot Springs pools are surrounded by native bushland, grasses and reeds. (Image: Tourism Australia)

What began as a simple series of geothermal baths in the bush has grown to include a day spa, kitchen garden and glamping, so visitors like myself can stay overnight. Upon arrival, I change straight into my bikini and walk the winding path in search of a pool to slip into. It’s an overcast day, but the springs are packed with groups of friends chatting and laughing while unwinding.

a couple heading towards the thermal pool at Peninsula Hot Springs — With its bush-fringed geothermal pools, Peninsula Hot Springs has helped kickstart a state-wide bathing renaissance. (Image: Tourism Australia)

With more than 70 bathing and wellness experiences on offer, such as Nepalese massaging mineral showers, a reflexology walk and ice cave, I’m overwhelmed by choice. In the end, I ditch the spa map and dabble in many different pools containing trace minerals touted to reduce stress and improve ailments such as arthritis and skin conditions.

holding a tray of food on the table at Spa Dreaming Centre — Dine on nourishing fare at Spa Dreaming Centre. (Image: Tourism Australia)

After a hearty yet healthy dinner in the Spa Dreaming Centre dining room, I retreat to my glamping tent to get an early night. Peninsula Hot Springs puts the ‘glam’ in glamping with a cushy king bed and underfloor heating. Listening to the distinct ‘bonk’ of eastern banjo frogs calling in the nearby wetlands, I nod off within minutes.

After waking at dawn to birdsong, I’m confident I’ve just experienced the most gloriously deep and rejuvenating slumber ever. And it appears I’m not alone, with an observational study conducted by RMIT University’s School of Health and Biomedical Sciences revealing that 82 per cent of bathers at Peninsula Hot Springs reported sleeping better after a visit.

My morning agenda includes a lazy breakfast of eggs, sourdough and coffee before another soak in the pools and a heavenly spa treatment. My once-tight shoulders never stood a chance against this schedule.

an aerial view of the plunge pools at Peninsula Hot Springs — Many of the plunge pools at Peninsula Hot Springs are set in peaceful surrounds. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Refuel in Sorrento

With lunch on my mind, I make the 20-minute drive to Sorrento, a town that had a moment in Australian pop culture in the mid-1990s with the release of a film called Hotel Sorrento and Tina Arena’s ballad Sorrento Moon (still a favourite with easy listening radio stations). It’s easy to see why the town has a song written about it. Sorrento has all the calling cards of a classic seaside holiday town. There’s a pretty wooden pier, sailing club and fish and chip shops. But it’s the grand, limestone pub overlooking the sea that’s calling my name.

coastal views at Hotel Sorrento — Hotel Sorrento offers views of the sea and sky. (Image: Threefold Social)

A landmark that’s stood since 1872, Hotel Sorrento is an institution. Owned by a local family for three generations, this heritage beauty is frequented by everyone from tradies getting together for knock-off pints in the front bar to tourists enjoying a coastal getaway in the upstairs accommodation. When I arrive, the dining room is abuzz with lunch crowds. Looking around at my fellow diners, seafood and wine seems to be the order of the day. But I can’t go past the winning combination of saganaki, figs and honey – a sublime dish that’s the next best thing after a trip to Greece.

the building exterior of Hotel Sorrento — Hotel Sorrento, established in 1872, is an iconic landmark in seaside Sorrento.

A breezy spot to throw back a few beers on a sunny afternoon, I’m reluctant to leave. If you’ve got time to explore the Bellarine Peninsula and beyond, head to Sorrento Pier and drive your car onto the Searoad Ferry. You’ll reach Queenscliff in about 40 minutes, which is way faster (not to mention more fun) than driving all the way around Port Phillip Bay.

a couple walking along the Sorrento Pier — Sorrento Pier provides access across the bay to Queenscliff via ferry. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Lon Retreat & Spa, Point Lonsdale

Mineral-fed soaking tubs beckon at Lon Retreat & Spa in Point Lonsdale, while Warrnambool’s geothermal waters wait near the end of the Great Ocean Road (more on that below). Otherwise, drive north back to Melbourne like I did (visiting a cellar door on the way home is almost mandatory in these parts, so factor in a stop at Red Hill, Shoreham or Merricks if you can).

the indoor pool at Lon Retreat & Spa — Soak in the mineral-fed tubs at Lon Retreat & Spa. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Hepburn Springs

While the Peninsula might have the new kids on the bathing block, up north is where you’ll find one of the originals. Just an 80-minute drive north-west of Melbourne Airport, Hepburn Springs is a slow-paced, peaceful town that feels so far removed from the hectic highway traffic that it takes a little while to switch gears. People have been travelling to the region seeking respite from the stresses of the Big Smoke for more than a century. And for good reason. Home to 80 per cent of Victoria’s mineral springs and Australia’s first ‘Mineral Reserve’ (created back in 1865), this corner of Victoria is paradise for lovers of down-to-earth wellness experiences.

Hepburn Spa Retreat

Checking into a Hepburn Spa Retreat villa , I activate relaxation mode immediately when I realise that the recently refurbished accommodation is truly self-contained. Absolutely everything has been thought of. There’s an air purifier, gas fireplace, two flat-screen TVs, comfy lounge, fully equipped kitchen (including a fridge loaded with breakfast provisions) and an oversized spa bath (complete with robes, slippers and bath salts). Thoughtful touches include a yoga mat, a supreme collection of herbal teas and a bedside notepad to commit your wellness goals to paper.

a look inside the villa at Hepburn Springs Escape — The Spa Escape is one of several accommodations you can stay in at Hepburn Spa Retreat.

The beauty of Hepburn Springs is that it’s small, so you can leave your car behind and explore on foot. You’re never far from a bushwalking trail here, like the 2.9-kilometre Argyle Walk – an easy loop I complete in less than an hour without sharing the track with another soul (except flocks of native birds and a solitary, shy echidna).

By night, the town is eerily quiet if you’re accustomed to the constant, low-humming buzz of the city. Just off the main street, I find The Surly Goat, a little restaurant doing big things with food and wine. Here you’ll be offered four courses that change from day-to-day.

Email ahead with your dietary requirements if you’re vegetarian, allergic to nuts or seafood, and dishes will be crafted to suit your needs. Otherwise, just sit back and let chef David Willcocks take the wheel (trust me, he knows what he’s doing). Every dish at this convivial hatted restaurant is an understated triumph, from a carefully constructed daikon roll to a deceptively simple dessert of Morningswood Farm strawberries with cream. Overhearing gushing words of praise coming from other diners confirms I’m not alone in this thinking.

Hepburn Bathhouse & Spa

Having a spa experience is obviously on my bingo card, so I make a beeline for Hepburn Bathhouse & Spa the following morning. Arriving early in the day is the key to success here.

a couple enjoying a relaxing dip at Hepburn Bathhouse — There are two main pools to experience in Hepburn Bathhouse. (Image: Visit Victoria)

There are two main pools, but the 90-minute Sanctuary Mineral Bathing experience is a more private affair. Stepping through the door into the private area, I hop between the hammam, aroma steam room and salt and magnesium pools.

people enjoying a dip in the wellness pool at Hepburn Bathhouse — Take in the views from the salt and magnesium pools. (Image: Visit Victoria)

A Fire & Frost Cryo facial in the day spa caps off the experience – I leave feeling a decade younger. Have I discovered the Fountain of Youth? The mineral-rich water is prized in these parts, and not just for bathing. Most local shops stock sparkling water from Daylesford and Hepburn Mineral Springs Co., a locally owned business bottling the region’s famous H2O. But before I leave, I fill my bottle with water pumped from one of the town’s mineral spring bores – the ultimate way to take a bit of Hepburn home.

Great Ocean Road

Deep Blue Hot Springs, Warrnambool

Towards the western end of the Great Ocean Road, Warrnambool’s Deep Blue Hot Springs is a top spot to decompress after a long drive. Here, the geothermal waters drawn from 850 metres below the surface are fed into a series of open-air rock pools and sensory caves that are open, day and night. Stay onsite in an ocean-view room at the Deep Blue Hotel to make the most of the scenic seaside locale.

an aerial view of Warrnambool and its surrounding hot springs — Warrnambool is a hot springs hotspot. (Image: Visit Victoria)

12 Apostles Hot Springs & Resort, Great Ocean Road

You’ll have to wait until 2026 to experience Australia’s biggest hot springs development. In addition to natural hot springs, there are plans for a wellness centre, amphitheatre, restaurant, bar, cafe and luxury eco-pod accommodation across the 78-hectare site.

Gippsland

Metung Hot Springs, East Gippsland

In the East Gippsland town of Metung, you can sink into a pool surrounded by native flora, slip into a barrel with a view, enjoy a massaging mineral shower or sweat it out like a Scandinavian in a hot sauna. A new lagoon precinct opens this year, including its largest pool yet, a cold plunge pool, geothermal showers and a floating sauna.

an aerial view of three girls dipping in Metung Hot Springs — Metung Hot Springs is set on a natural undulating site. (Image: Visit Victoria; Ben Savage)

With Metung being a four-hour drive from Melbourne, staying overnight at the springs’ own lagoon-side glamping accommodation is a genius move.

glamping tents by the river at Metung Hot Springs — Glamp at Metung Hot Springs. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Phillip Island

Phillip Island Hot Springs

Slated to open later this year, this hotly anticipated development will give visitors yet another reason to make the trip across the bridge to Phillip Island, home to the world-famous penguin parade. Come to Phillip Island for the penguins; stay for some relaxation.

Winding down in the Yarra Valley, where ‘work from home’ becomes ‘work from wine country’.

Steam from my morning coffee curls gently into the cool valley air, mist-veiled vineyards stretch out in neat rows below me. Magpies warble from trees, and the morning’s quiet carries the soft bleating of lambs from a nearby paddock. Midweek in the Yarra Valley has its own rhythm. It’s slower, quieter, with more empty tables at cafes and cellar doors, and walking trails I can claim all to myself. It’s as if the entire region takes a deep breath once the weekend crowd leaves.

walking trails in the Yarra Valley — You’ll find walking trails are less crowded during the week. (Image: Visit Victoria)

I haven’t come here for a holiday, but to do a little work somewhere other than my home office, where I spend too much time hunched over my desk. Deadlines still loom, meetings still happen, but with flexible work evolving from ‘work from home’ to ‘work from anywhere’, I’m swapping the view of my front yard to the vineyards.

A quiet afternoon at Yarra Valley Dairy

holding a glass of wine at Yarra Valley Dairy — Wine time at Yarra Valley Dairy, where you can enjoy a toastie or bagel in the cafe. (Image: Visit Victoria)

With the Yarra Valley just over an hour from the CBD, many Melburnians could drive here in their lunch break. I arrive late in the afternoon and am delighted to discover the Yarra Valley Dairy still open. On weekends, I’ve seen queues spilling out the door, but today there’s only one other couple inside. There’s no need to rush to secure a table; instead I browse the little store, shelves stacked with chutneys, spices, artisan biscuits and gorgeous crockery that would look right at home in my kitchen. It’s hard not to buy the lot.

a cheese tasting plate atYarra Valley Dairy — A cheese tasting plate at Yarra Valley Dairy.

I order a coffee and a small cheese platter, though the dairy has a full menu, and choose a wooden table with bentwood chairs by a wide window. The space feels part farm shed, part cosy café: corrugated iron ceiling, walls painted in muted tones and rustic furniture.

Outside, cows meander toward milking sheds. If pressed for time, there’s the option of quick cheese tastings – four samples for five dollars in five minutes – but today, I’m in no rush. I sip slowly, watching a grey sky settle over the paddock. Less than an hour ago I was hunched over my home-office desk, and now my racing mind has slowed to match the valley’s pace.

Checking in for vineyard views at Balgownie Estate

Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate has views across the vines.

As my car rolls to a stop at Balgownie Estate , I’m quietly excited, and curious to see if my plan to work and play comes off. I’ve chosen a suite with a spacious living area and a separate bedroom so I can keep work away from a good night’s sleep. I could have booked a cosy cottage, complete with open fireplace, a comfy couch and a kettle for endless cups of tea, but as I am still here to get some work done, I opt for a place that takes care of everything. Dinner is served in Restaurant 1309, as is breakfast.

oysters at Restaurant 1309, Balgownie Estate — Oysters pair perfectly with a crisp white at Restaurant 1309.

On my first evening, instead of the usual walk about my neighbourhood, I stroll through the estate at an unhurried pace. There’s no need to rush – someone else is preparing my dinner after all. The walking trails offer beautiful sunsets, and it seems mobs of kangaroos enjoy the view, too. Many appear, grazing lazily on the hillside.

I wake to the call of birds and, after breakfast, with the mist still lingering over the vineyards, I watch two hot-air balloons silently drift above clouds. Perched on a hill, Balgownie Estate sits above the mist, leaving the valley below veiled white.

kangaroos in Yarra Valley — Spotting the locals on an evening walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Exploring the Yarra Valley on two wheels

the Yarra Valley vineyards — Swap your home office for a view of the vineyards. (Image: Visit Victoria/Cormac Hanrahan)

Perhaps because the Yarra Valley is relatively close to where I live, I’ve never considered exploring the area any way other than by car or on foot. And with a fear of heights, a hot-air balloon is firmly off the table. But when I discover I can hop on two wheels from the estate and cycle into Yarra Glen, I quickly realise it’s the perfect way to step away from my laptop and experience a different side of the region.

COG Bike offers pedal-assist e-bikes, and while the bike trail and paths into town aren’t particularly hilly, having an extra bit of ‘oomph’ means I can soak up the surroundings. Those lambs I heard calling early in the morning? I now find them at the paddock fence, sniffing my hands, perhaps hoping for food. Cows idle nearby, and at a fork in the bike path I turn left toward town.

It’s still morning, and the perfect time for a coffee break at The Vallie Store. If it were the afternoon, I’d likely turn right, in the direction of four wineries with cellar doors. The ride is about 15 kilometres return, but don’t let that put you off. Staying off the highway, the route takes you along quiet backroads where you catch glimpses of local life – farmers on tractors, weathered sheds, rows of vines and the kind of peaceful countryside you don’t see from the main road.

A detour to the Dandenong Ranges

legs hanging over the sides of the train, Puffing Billy Railway — The iconic Puffing Billy runs every day except Christmas Day.

The beauty of basing myself in the Yarra Valley is how close everything feels. In barely half an hour I’m in the Dandenong Ranges, swapping vineyards for towering mountain ash and fern-filled gullies. The small villages of Olinda and Sassafras burst with cosy teahouses, antique stores and boutiques selling clothing and handmade body care items.

I’m drawn to RJ Hamer Arboretum – Latin for ‘a place for trees’. Having grown up among tall trees, I’ve always taken comfort in their presence, so this visit feels like a return of sorts. A stroll along the trails offers a choice: wide open views across patchwork paddocks below, or shaded paths that lead you deeper into the quiet hush of the peaceful forest.

The following day, I settle into a quiet corner on the balcony of Paradise Valley Hotel in Clematis and soon hear Puffing Billy’s whistle and steady chuff as the steam train climbs towards town. Puffing Billy is one of Australia’s most beloved steam trains, running through the Dandenong Ranges on a narrow-gauge track. It’s famous for its open carriages where passengers can sit with their legs hanging over the sides as the train chugs through the forest. This is the perfect spot to wave to those on the train.

After my midweek break, I find my inbox still full and my to-do list not in the least shrunken, just shifted from one task to another. But I return to my home office feeling lighter, clearer and with a smug satisfaction I’d stolen back a little time for myself. A midweek wind-down made all the difference.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Balgownie Estate offers everything from cellar door tastings to spa treatments and fine dining – all without leaving the property.

Playing there

the TarraWarra Museum of Art, Yarra Valley — Visit the TarraWarra Museum of Art. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Wander through Alowyn Gardens, including a stunning wisteria tunnel, then explore the collection of contemporary artworks at TarraWarra Museum of Art . Cycle the Yarra Valley with COG Bike to visit local wineries and cellar doors.

Eating and drinking there

Olinda Tea House offers an Asian-inspired high tea. Paradise Valley Hotel, Clematis has classic pub fare, while the iconic Yering Station offers wine tastings and a restaurant with seasonal dishes.

seasonal dishes at the restaurant inside Yering Station — The restaurant at Yering Station showcases the best produce of the Yarra Valley. (Image: Visit Victoria)

A road trip along the Great Victorian Bathing Trail