The ultimate Mornington Peninsula road trip

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 With picturesque seaside villages, rolling vineyards, quaint antique stores, local markets, art galleries, nature trails and an array of water-based leisure activities, the Mornington Peninsula is one of the country’s top spots for a long weekend road trip.

The beauty of it is, with so much packed into a relatively small peninsula, you can have a wide variety of experiences without spending days on end in the car.

 

The other draw card is this part of the world is fabulous year-round. In the colder months spend your days curled up by the fireplace at a vineyard in the hinterland, and in summer laze away hours on a paddle board in the serene waters of Port Phillip Bay.

 

Read on for our ultimate itinerary for a long weekend away.

Melbourne to Merricks – 1 hour 15 minutes

Head up the highway to the peninsula and admire some of the unique public artwork along the Eastlink roadway (a giant bird and a mini hotel are bound to catch your eye). When you arrive in Merricks, head straight to the Merricks General Wine Store for a good coffee and a light lunch made from seasonal local produce. There’s also a great provedore here, where you can pick up some local preserves and wines to take with you.

Merricks general wine store
Head straight to the Merricks General Wine Store

After lunch it’s time to whip around some of the fabulous wineries in the Red Hill area for a tasting. Foxey’s Hangout, Polperro, Paringa Estate, Quealy Winemakers, Main Ridge Estate and T’Gallant are all worth a look. At Montalto Estate, take a walk along the sculpture trail or grab a woodfired pizza if you’re still feeling peckish.

 

If you want to get a broad appreciation for the area’s food and wine in one spot, visit all-day bistro, bar and cellar door Many Little. Sit on the huge deck, soak up the atmosphere (this is a popular spot with locals) and sample wines, beers and ciders from the region. Be sure to check out the beautifully curated Amelie & Frank’s boutique a few doors down and spend all your hard-earned cash on lovely things. Gordon Studio Glassblowers in Red Hill is also worth a look while you’re in the area – they are considered some of the best glassblowers in Australia.

Many Little things to love

Check into your accommodation at the architecturally formidable Jackalope late afternoon, so you can sit by the infinity pool and enjoy watching the sun set behind the vines. Make time to admire the incredible artwork throughout the hotel, which was one of the few Australian accommodation offerings to make it onto Condé Nast Traveler’s hot list last year. Have dinner at Rare Hare, or Jackalope’s fancier offering Doot Doot Doot.

As you’d expect with a five-star hotel, Jackalope’s service is on point

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Merricks to Pt. Leo Estate – 10 minutes

Hop up in the morning and head to a yoga class at the beautifully intimate HotHut Yoga.  Then make your way to Pt. Leo Estate and take your time walking around its sculpture park. Set high on a hill and with Western Port Bay as the backdrop, this is a truly unique spot to drink in some incredible art. After your artsy stroll, head inside to Laura restaurant for a degustation lunch – chef Phil Woods’ restaurant recently landed the Best New Restaurant gong at the Good Food Guide Awards. You won’t be disappointed.

Make your way to Pt. Leo Estate

Pt. Leo Estate to Cape Schanck – 25 minutes

After lunch make your way to the evening’s accommodation at the freshly finished Cape Schanck Resort. With sweeping views of the rugged coastline, this resort is adjacent to a world-class golf course. If swinging a club is not your thing the day spa at Cape Schanck is also amazing. The hammam-style bathing experience is a cheap and cheerful way to experience the amenities, or choose from one of their indulgent treatments.

 

One you’ve taken part in your afternoon leisure activity of choice spend the evening dining at the Cape Restaurant (which is quickly becoming one of the peninsula’s hot dining spots).

Cape Schanck Resort
The freshly finished Cape Schanck Resort

Cape Schanck to Fingal – 15 minutes

In the morning head down the road to the Peninsula Hot Springs in Fingal. This is Victoria’s first natural hot springs and day spa centre. It’s won a slew of tourism awards, and it’s easy to see why. It’s a beautifully landscaped labyrinth of thermal pools, saunas and private bath houses. Be sure to make your way up to the top bath, which offers views across the rolling hills.

Victoria’s first natural hot springs and day spa centre

Fingal to Sorrento / Portsea – 25 minutes

When you’ve soaked your cares away, jump back in the car and head to Sorrento and Portsea (two towns side by side at the end of the peninsula). These beachside towns have long been the playground of wealthy Melburnians, so among the jaw-dropping holiday homes you’ll find excellent art galleries, cafes and shops to explore. The Portsea Hotel is something of an icon, so be sure to drop in for a lazy beer or wine and do a spot of people watching.

Stop for a bite at The Portsea Hotel

The beaches here are top notch. Go for a dip or take part in one of the many water activities on offer, including sailing, fishing and sea kayaking. Also check out the quaint little bathing boxes/huts set right on the beach. These are privately owned and are tightly held – when they do come up for sale the prices are often eye-watering.

 

You also might like to go for a walk around the Point Nepean National Park, which is rich in maritime history. There’s a historic fort you can explore, and bike hire is available if you’d like to take it in on two wheels.

 

Spend your last night at the Portsea Village Resort, which offers 25 boutique-style apartments.

Portsea Village Resort, offers 25 boutique-style apartments

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Portsea to Arthurs Seat – 35 minutes

Kick off your final day with an early morning excursion out into the bay. Moonraker Charters offers a three-hour small-group tour where you can swim with dolphins and seals. The tours depart from the Sorrento pier. Have fish and chips for lunch afterwards on the beach.

Kick off your final day with an early morning excursion

Then make your way to the Arthurs Seat Eagle which gives you the chance to soar in a cable car through the forest canopy over Arthurs Seat State Park. You’ll get great views across Port Phillip Bay to Melbourne.

Soar in a cable car through the forest canopy over Arthurs Seat State Park

Arthurs Seat to Melbourne (via Tyabb) – 1 hour 30 mins

On the journey back to Melbourne stop in at Tyabb Packing House Antiques. Located in a 100-plus-year-old cool store, the range of vintage items on offer provides a wonderful trip down memory lane. There’s also a cafe on site where you can grab a decent coffee for the drive home.

Stop in at Tyabb Packing House Antiques

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Explore historic wine towns and sculpture trails on a 3-day self-guided Murray River cruise

    Ricky French Ricky French
    Slow down and find your rhythm on a Murray River journey through time and place. 

    Trust is a funny thing. It seems not that long ago that my mother was insisting on pouring the milk into my cereal bowl, because she didn’t trust me not to slosh it over the table, and yet here I am on the Murray River at Mildura in far north-west Victoria, being handed the keys to a very new and very expensive luxury houseboat. 

    After a crash course in how not to crash, I’m at the wheel of the good ship Elevate – pride of the All Seasons fleet – guiding her upstream past red-ochre cliffs as pelicans glide above the rippled river and kookaburras call from reedy banks. There’s a brief moment of breath-holding while I negotiate a hairpin turn around a jagged reef of skeletal, submerged gum trees, before a cheer rings out and calm descends as the timeless river unfurls in front of us.    

    Murray River
    The Murray River winding through Yarrawonga. (Image: Rob Blackburn)

    Setting sail from Mildura 

    Murray River birds
    Home to a large number of bird species, including pelicans. (Image: The Precint Studios)

    A journey along the Murray River is never less than magical, and launching from Mildura makes perfect sense. Up here the river is wide and largely empty, giving novice skippers like myself the confidence to nudge the 60-tonne houseboat up to the riverbank where we tie up for the night, without fear of shattering the glass elevator (the boat is fully wheelchair accessible) or spilling our Champagne.  

    My friends and I spend three days on the water, swimming and fishing, sitting around campfires onshore at night, and basking in air so warm you’d swear you were in the tropics. The simplicity of river life reveals an interesting dichotomy: we feel disconnected from the world but at the same time connected to Country, privileged to be part of something so ancient and special.  

    Stop one: Echuca  

    19th-century paddlesteamers
    A historic 19th-century paddlesteamer cruises along the Murray River. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    The six-hour drive from Melbourne to Mildura (or four hours and 20 minutes from Adelaide) is more than worth it, but you don’t have to travel that far to find fun on the river. Once Australia’s largest inland port, Echuca is the closest point on the Murray to Melbourne (two hours 45 minutes), and you’ll still find a plethora of paddlesteamers tethered to the historic timber wharf, a throwback to the thriving river trade days of the 19th century. The PS Adelaide, built in 1866 and the oldest wooden-hulled paddlesteamer operating in the world, departs daily for one-hour cruises, while a brand-new paddlesteamer, the PS Australian Star, is launching luxury seven-night voyages in December through APT Touring.  

    The town is also a hot food and wine destination. St Anne’s Winery at the historic Port of Echuca precinct has an incredibly photogenic cellar door, set inside an old carriage builders’ workshop on the wharf and filled with huge, 3000-litre port barrels. The Mill, meanwhile, is a cosy winter spot to sample regional produce as an open fire warms the red-brick walls of this former flour mill.  

    Stop two: Barmah National Park 

    Barmah National Park
    Camping riverside in Barmah National Park, listed as a Ramsar site for its significant wetland values. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

    Just half-an-hour upstream, Barmah National Park is flourishing, its river red gum landscape (the largest in the world) rebounding magnificently after the recent removal of more than 700 feral horses. The internationally significant Ramsar-listed wetland sits in the heart of Yorta Yorta Country, with Traditional Owners managing the environment in close partnership with Parks Victoria. Walkways weave through the forest, crossing creeks lined with rare or threatened plants, passing remnants of Yorta Yorta oven mounds and numerous scar trees, where the bark was removed to build canoes, containers or shields.  

    The Dharnya Centre (open weekdays until 3pm) is the cultural hub for the Yorta Yorta. Visitors can learn about the ecological significance of the Barmah Lakes on a 90-minute river cruise, led by a First Nations guide, or take a one-hour, guided cultural walking tour along the Yamyabuc Trail.  

    Stop three: Cobram 

    Yarrawonga MulwalaGolf Club Resort
    Yarrawonga Mulwala Golf Club Resort. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Continue east to Cobram to find the southern hemisphere’s largest inland beach. Swarming with sun-seekers in summer, the white sand of Thompson’s Beach is shaded by majestic river red gums and dotted with hundreds of beach umbrellas, as beachgoers launch all manner of water craft and set up stumps for beach cricket. But the beach is at its most captivating at sunset, when the crowds thin out, the glassy river mirrors the purple sky, and the canopies of the gum trees glow fiery orange. 

    The region is also home to some fine resorts and indulgent retreats. Yarrawonga Mulwala Golf Club Resort has two riverside championship golf courses, luxury apartments and self-contained villas. While not strictly on the Murray, the historic wine town of Rutherglen is rife with boutique (and unique) accommodation, including an exquisitely renovated red-brick tower in a French provincial-style castle at Mount Ophir Estate. Fans of fortified wines can unravel the mystery of Rutherglen’s ‘Muscat Mile’, meeting the vignerons and master-blenders whose artistry has put the town on the global map for this rich and complex wine style.  

    Stop four: Albury-Wodonga 

    First Nations YindyamarraSculpture Walk
    First Nations Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk is part of the Wagirra Trail. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

    Follow the river far enough upstream and you’ll arrive at the twin border cities of Albury-Wodonga. The Hume Highway thunders through, but serenity can be found along the five-kilometre Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk – part of the Wagirra Trail that meanders through river wetlands just west of Albury in Wiradjuri country. Fifteen sculptures by local First Nations artists line the trail, conveying stories of reconciliation, enduring connection to culture, local Milawa lore and traditional practices. It feels a long way from Mildura, and it is, but the pelicans and kookaburras remind us that it’s the same river, the great conduit that connects our country. 

    A traveller’s checklist  

    Staying there

    New Mildura motel Kar-rama
    New Mildura motel Kar-rama. (Image: Iain Bond Photo)

    Kar-Rama is a brand-new boutique, retro-styled motel in Mildura, with a butterfly-shaped pool and a tropical, Palm Springs vibe. Echuca Holiday Homes has a range of high-end accommodation options, both on the riverfront and in town. 

    Playing there

    BruceMunro’s Trail of Lights in Mildura
    Bruce Munro’s Trail of Lights in Mildura. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

    Artist Bruce Munro’s Trail of Lights installation, comprising more than 12,000 illuminated ‘fireflies’, is currently lighting up Mildura’s Lock Island in the middle of the Murray. Murray Art Museum Albury (MAMA) is a hub for contemporary art, with a rotating roster of exhibitions, and is a major outlet for young and First Nations artists. 

    Eating there

    Mildura’s diverse demographic means it’s a fantastic place to eat. Andy’s Kitchen is a local favourite, serving up delicious pan-Asian dishes and creative cocktails in a Balinese-style garden setting. Call in to Spoons Riverside in Swan Hill to enjoy locally sourced, seasonal produce in a tranquil setting overlooking the river.