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Heathcote has evolved into the ultimate eco-escape for foodies

From cabins to canvas, craft distillers to destination dining, Heathcote locals reveal their eco-savvy passions in ways that resonate with those seeking to travel lightly. 

Heathcote, on traditional Taungurung Country in Central Victoria, is synonymous with its garnet-hued shiraz, but wine isn’t the only string to its bow. The town itself is sprinkled with heritage buildings from the gold rush era, and beyond that a growing collection of sustainable gastronomy and eco-friendly escapes. Nearby Bendigo, one of only 65 cities in the world recognised as a UNESCO Creative City and Region of Gastronomy, plates up an astonishing calibre of produce, wine and food for its size. Increasingly the entire region is taking up the challenge, though Heathcote in particular shines with its focus on sustainability. 

Pink Cliffs GeologicalReserve
The dramatic landscape of Heathcote’s Pink Cliffs Geological Reserve. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Goodfrey)

The eco-stays bringing sustainability to Heathcote 

Yellow BoxWood’s safari-style tents
Yellow Box Wood’s safari-style tents are nestled on 40 hectares of bushland. (Image: Emily Goodfrey)

Andee and Lisa Davidson spent years working in southern Africa before settling in Heathcote. “We had a vision of how this could be," explains Andee. “We wanted a retreat, but one that was off-grid and environmentally sustainable." Now, at Yellow Box Wood, two luxury safari-style tents are at the heart of 40 hectares of rolling hills and native bush, with kangaroos, wallabies, echidnas, goanna and birdlife aplenty. It’s all solar-powered, wood for the fire is mainly fallen timber, and water is collected on the carport roof.  No lack of creature comforts though – en suite with rain shower, espresso coffee maker, comfy seating, wood-burning fire all set to go. There’s also a solar-heated, mineral salt pool in a bush setting, walking tracks, and even a mini bush golf course.  On my visit, I put the vision to the test. Cocooned in the plush four-poster bed I can glimpse the stars, while the heater casts a golden glow on the canvas. In the morning, I wake to a blush-pink sunrise, kangaroos feeding and a soundtrack of magpies.

Mt Ida Eco Cabin
Mt Ida Eco Cabin is rustic and simple but oozes comfort. (Image: Graham Hosking)

If a tent is not your style, Stephen and Cally Trompp’s carbon-neutral Mt Ida Eco Cabin might entice with its generous deck and farmland views.   Inside the cabin, corrugated iron walls as rusty as a shearing shed, gleaming (recycled) floorboards, timber truss ceiling (crafted by Stephen), wood-fired heater and an old-school turntable with a pile of vinyls to spin. It’s fun, and a little boho. “Everything is recycled. The cabin takes maximum advantage of the sun in winter. It’s all solar-powered. Don’t panic, though," says Stephen, “you can still charge your phone and get 4G reception!" Settle into an Adirondack chair on the deck or pedal off on a mountain bike to suss out the wineries.  

A taste of Spain in Central Victoria 

Three Dams Estate
Three Dams Estate make Spanish-style wine.

Another person with a vision is Evan Pritchard at his Three Dams Estate where the wines reflect his deep love of Spain and of Spanish-style grapes, such as tempranillo. Afternoons in the ‘wine shed’ or cantina are matched with music (flamenco is a favourite), Spanish bites from tapas to paella (with Evan on the pans!) and views to Mount Alexander. Sustainability is also a passion. “You don’t need to buy anything. We decided to be off-grid from the start, but it is a lifestyle change," he says. “You need to think about it and be careful." Everything here is recycled, reassembled, refurbished. Evan has an electric car (with solar-powered charger), solar-power for the winery, and even a jaunty little electric tractor/forklift. “I love the idea of all the things you can do using the sun." Sipping a crisp rosado (a Spanish rosé) with Evan in the sunshine, I couldn’t agree more. 

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The vineyard redefining sustainable winemaking 

Silver Spoon winery
The Silverspoon Estate winery is completely off-grid. (Image: Graham Hosking)

On the other side of Heathcote, Silver Spoon Estate demonstrates sustainability on a more extensive scale. Tracie and Peter Young’s winery, cellar door, award-winning restaurant and their own house are all solar-powered and off the grid. Sustainability is intrinsic to everything they do.  The property sprawls across 100 hectares, with 20 hectares under vine – shiraz, viognier, grenache, tempranillo. As the climate has changed, so too has the approach. These are dry-grown vineyards. “We prune for drought. That means lower yields but more intense flavours," says Peter.  The fine-dining restaurant offers sweeping views, a wood-burning fire and a deck for languid lunches. Head chef Ben Hong sources regional, sustainable ingredients and weaves estate wines into the menu – think crispy wild mushroom arancini, viognier-infused chicken breast.   

Silver Spoon’s award-winning restaurant
Silver Spoon’s award-winning restaurant.

Heathcote’s other hidden gems 

Heathcote Wine Hub
Heathcote Wine Hub is housed in a 1855-built timber church.

Not all local wineries have a cellar door, but I find local treasures at the Heathcote Wine Hub, a petite 1855 timber church in the main street, lovingly returned to life by Karen Robertson and Carey Moncrieff.  “Carey is a scrounger," says Karen. “He doesn’t throw a single thing away." He does, however, craft things into something quite special. Heritage floors, light-filtering lancet windows and shelves of regional wines create the perfect ambience for wine tasting. Or order a glass and linger over a cheese platter.  

Heathcote is not all wine, of course. Nathan Wheat and partner Vanessa Curtis run Envy Distilling with a committed sustainable ethic – and a serious love of gin. Their small-batch distillery produces grape-based gin, and soon brandy. Distilled water is reused in an ingenious cooling system. All waste is treated on site. They buy excess wine from winemakers to distil and buy recycled barrels. “Distilling with the sun," as Nathan says. Each Envy gin has its own story. Spicy, award-winning The Dry, is designed to capture the region’s dry, rugged nature. Pull up a stool at the bar (reclaimed timbers and tiles, of course), order a Gin Flight, or kick back with a cocktail and let Nathan share his eco journey.   

Envy gins
Sample gins at small-batch distillery Envy.

A traveller’s checklist 

Getting there

It’s less than two hours’ drive from Melbourne. The scenic route we take goes past Sunbury, then along a splendid country road through Romsey and the magic, boulder-strewn landscape of Lancefield. Watch for kangaroos on the road! 

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Staying there

Go off-grid in style at Yellow Box Wood for glamping or try Mt Ida Eco Cabin for a couple’s weekend hideaway. 

Eating there

French dishes at Chauncy
Award-winning French restaurant Chauncy.

At award-winning Chauncy, French chef Louis Naepels and sommelier wife Tess Murray have created a tiny, elegant pocket of rural France. Meticulously restored 1850s sandstone building, sun-drenched dining room, impeccable service, a menu suffused with local flavours and thoughtful wine pairings.  

Fodder is both cafe and social hub. Chef Mo Pun and sister Lalita serve classic Aussie breakfast-to-lunch fare, though their Nepalese heritage sneaks through. 

Playing there

Sanguine Estate
Sip on wines among the vines at Sanguine Estate. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

Sanguine Estate’s cellar door and terrace overlook bucolic vineyards. Its award-winning, dry-grown wines include the distinctive D’Orsa Blanc dessert wine, reflecting the family’s Swiss-Italian heritage. Order a charcuterie board and stay a while. Keep it carbon neutral by cycling some (or all) of the 50-kilometre O’Keefe Rail Trail to Bendigo.  

At Bridgeward Grove, learn about the property’s Old Mission Grove heritage olive trees, do a sommelier olive oil tasting, and stock up on sustainably grown olives and oil. Explore the unique landscape, wildflowers and wildlife of pink cliffs geological reserve. 

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Margaret Barca
Margaret is a Melbourne-based writer with serious case of wanderlust, who loves hotels – from high end to quirky off-grid retreats – cutting- edge design, a Campari soda and a banana lounge with an uninterrupted view of the pool. While she loves galleries, museums and the buzz of big cities, she is also often dreaming of Tulum, or the Aeolian Islands.
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From hot springs to tasty treats: your wellness guide to Gippsland Lakes

    Gemma Kaczerepa Gemma Kaczerepa
    Rest and recuperate in the East Gippsland region, a haven of natural hot springs, seasonal festivals and really tasty things to eat.

    It’s about this time of year that the buzz of the summer holidays is well and truly behind us, and the pressures of the day-to-day are starting to pile up. The solution? A proper weekend escape, ideally one with a focus on rest, relaxation and total reset.

    East Gippsland delivers all three in spades. Here, you’ll find charming towns, natural scenery alive with wildlife and easygoing experiences – think steamy hot springs and idyllic lakefront stays that practically force you to unwind.

    The Gippsland Lakes are one of the region’s highlights, a sprawling network of glassy waterways with a seriously calming atmosphere. Spend a few days here, and you’ll be well and truly recharged.

    Here’s where to eat, stay, explore and unwind for a wellness-focused weekend in this gorgeous region.

    Getting there

    aerial of lakes entrance
    Visit lakeside villages like Lakes Entrance.

    East Gippsland is a patchwork of towns, each with its own personality: coastal gems like Marlo and Mallacoota, lakeside villages including Metung, Paynesville and Lakes Entrance and a smattering of inland communities.

    From Melbourne, getting to each is easy. The region can be reached by car in around four hours, just a smooth drive along the Princes Highway.

    If you’re driving to or from Sydney, many of the towns sit along the legendary Sydney to Melbourne coastal drive, which winds its way through Lakes Entrance, Orbost, Marlo and Mallacoota.

    Having a car makes exploring the region a breeze, as you can pull over at farm gates, take scenic detours and go at your own relaxing pace.

    Winter delights

    Bruthen Medieval event at East Gippsland Winter Festival
    Experience that East Gippsland Winter Festival. (Credit: Naomi Rahim)

    Winter is a particularly good time to visit. The East Gippsland Winter Festival is a raucous celebration of wintery food, drink, music and experiences, taking place over an entire month and in different towns.

    Expect re-enactments, games, roving performances and fiery displays at the Bruthen Medieval event. Feast your way through regional bites and watch live wood carving and a hotly contested dumpling-eating competition in the waterside town of Metung. Head to Lakes Entrance for one of the festival’s signature events, Lakes Lights: Gardens of the Galaxy – a slightly cosmic and totally mesmerising display of lights. Or book a seat at the Nicholson River Trestle Bridge Long Lunch. This long-table feast stretches across the entire bridge, with sweeping river views and top-tier local produce.

    Where to stay

    Metung Hot Springs
    Rejuvinate at Metung Hot Springs.

    Metung is also a much-loved destination for natural hot springs – warm mineral pools believed to restore and detoxify the system. Here, you’ll find a network of tranquil springs fed with water sourced 500m below the surface, all at varying temperatures but with a healthy mix of soothing minerals and trace elements. Each looks over the stunning surrounding lakes, only adding to the sense of serenity.

    Extend the relaxation by booking into Metung Hot Springs. The property is home to a collection of glamping tents – either perched on the hillside or overlooking the lagoon – that deliver after-hours access to the springs. These are no ordinary tents; expect plush linens, beautifully curated furnishings, warm service and a complimentary gourmet breakfast delivered daily.

    Alternatively, book a night or two at Idle Lake House – a gorgeously appointed hideaway in Lakes Entrance. The aesthetic is moody, modern and very cool, and the property is situated right on the water’s edge with floor-to-ceiling windows that immerse you in the surroundings.

    Where to eat

    table spread at Sodafish in east gippsland victoria
    Sit down at the floating restaurant, Sodafish. (Credit: We Are Explorers)

    Given its wealth of fresh seafood and exceptional produce, East Gippsland is home to a vast selection of eateries, with options to suit all tastes and budgets.

    For something a little bit fancy, Sardine Dining in Paynesville is a must-visit. The hatted restaurant serves a seasonal seafood-focused menu made with premium local ingredients, while the adjoining wine bar is a top spot for a regional drop and a light snack.

    If you’re after a relaxed bite, Sodafish in Lakes Entrance is your best bet. This floating restaurant sits right atop the water, with a vibrant and fresh menu centred on locally caught seafood. Anything off the menu is delicious, but the whole roasted snapper and locally sourced fish and chips are standouts.

    Or luxuriate with a long afternoon at the nearby Slipway. This waterfront dining precinct hosts a mix of vendors serving casual food, craft drinks and regionally made goods.

    Exploring the great outdoors and local culture

    wild koala in the tree
    Keep an eye out for the locals. (Credit: Tyson Mayr)

    No wellness weekend would be complete without immersing yourself in the beauty and tranquillity of East Gippsland’s outdoors.

    Head to Raymond Island – a small island just off Paynesville – to spot local koalas along the Koala Trail. This two-kilometre stretch is one of the few places where you can see koalas doing their thing in their natural habitat, with more than 200 living on the island. Leave the car in Paynesville; the trail can only be accessed on foot.

    Next, explore the Gippsland Lakes Discovery Trail, which starts in Colquhoun and ends in Lakes Entrance. Across 23 kilometres, you’ll spot native flora and fauna (including lace goannas) and pass by remnants of the tramway that once serviced timber workers in the area.

    Finish up your East Gippsland jaunt with a visit to Gunaikurnai Cultural Hub. The centre houses an Aboriginal Art Gallery displaying contemporary works by Aboriginal artists, and a Bush Cafe serving breakfast and lunch classics and excellent cakes. Pick up a slice and a coffee for your trip back to the city.

    Start planning the ultimate wellness escape in Gippsland Lakes at visitgippsland.com.au.

    A couple sit on the salt plains of Lake Tyrrell

    Part of The best of regional Victoria