Hotel Review: Shadow Play by Peppers, Southbank

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When it comes to the age-old Sydney v Melbourne rivalry, I’ve always had my feet firmly fixed in Sydney’s camp. Being born and raised in Australia’s best city (sorry, Melburnians!) means that my loyalty has never wavered… until now.

What I’ve found is that where you lay your head at night can actually deeply impact the experience you have when you travel, because let me tell you – I’ve been to Melbourne at least 10 times, and I’ve never been quite so taken with it until my stay at Shadow Play by Peppers.

 

It probably sounds cheesy – okay, I know it does. But it’s true. Opened for the first time in April 2019, the hotel I’m branding Melbourne’s newest ‘edgy luxe’ hotel is still very much establishing itself – but you wouldn’t know it. It’s operating as though it’s as established and mysterious as one of the city’s famous hidden laneways. Okay, enough fan-girling; let’s get down to the nitty gritty.

Details

Shadow Play by Peppers, Southbank
308-320 City Rd, Southbank VIC

The rooms

You’d be forgiven for thinking Shadow Play by Peppers was more of a serviced apartment than a hotel in layout if it wasn’t for the major giveaway: the beds were made every day! We had a kitchen, but not just the standard sink, kettle and mini fridge – oh no. This one had a full-sized fringe, around 10 cupboards, microwave, coffee machine, as well as incredible lounge room and hallway – with more storage. It was better than my own apartment; I could have stayed for six months.

 

The beds were also super comfortable, and my request for a cot for my five-month-old was met with a smile and a timely assembly. The curved windows showed an impressive view of the bustling city streets below, and while the bathrooms were also modern and roomy – the real winner was the addition of a winter garden. The enclosed balcony space was the perfect area for a pre-dinner vino, minus the winter Melbourne chill.

Shadow Play room
The apartment style rooms make for optimum luxe living
Comfort and design – what more could you want?

The restaurant

Edwin. Woah. If you’re on the hunt for proper Victorian cuisine (and I get it, Melbourne isn’t short of a good spot to eat), then you can’t go past Edwin Wine Bar & Cellar. Like the hotel it belongs to, it’s still establishing itself, but it won’t need to for long. The menu featured only the best Victorian produce, minus the oysters – they were from Tassie – but don’t worry, we won’t tell anyone.

 

After going through the menu with our waiter, we settled on oysters drizzled with champagne melon and prosecco, burrata, zucchini flowers, kingfish dressed in passionfruit, charred cauliflower and slow-cooked melt-in-your-mouth lamb. It could well have been the most impressive meal I’ve devoured in at least a year – maybe even two.

 

The sommelier also presented us with an exclusive Victorian-focused wine list, and we sipped on what I can only describe as the finest riesling I’ve ever tasted. Then came the red… also ‘wow’! But I have to admit, by this point things were a little fuzzy. Smooth and delicious – but fuzzy.

The amenities

You might think Melbourne is no place for an outdoor pool, especially in winter. But it is at Shadow Play. Level nine features an outdoor lap pool heated to a comfortable swimming temperature, even in Melbourne’s infamous ‘four seasons in a day’. As long as you’re game enough to make the few steps from the pool to the sauna, it’s well worth going in for a dip. For those who aren’t, the state-of-the-art gym or sauna and steam room might be more your speed. They were certainly mine.

Level nine features an outdoor lap pool heated to a comfortable swimming temperature

The location and the staff

During our stay we visited The Crown, which was only a short seven-minute walk away. We even crossed the Yarra and headed into Bourke Street Mall. No need for public transport, everything you need is within a 20-minute walk; easy peasy.

 

If you didn’t take up the delicious buffet breakfast at Shadow Play, ST ALi South Melbourne is a five-minute stroll away. I know this, because as soon as I arrived at Shadow Play to check in, I was handed a list of staff picks in and out of the area, covering restaurants, shopping and cafes. It was the kind of welcome surprise that’s about 10,000 times more useful than a mint on your pillow.

Shadow Play
Simplicity at its best
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Victoria’s surprising new outdoor adventure hotspot

A town charmingly paused in time has become a hot mountain biking destination. 

There’s a forest reserve full of eucalyptus and pines surrounding town – when you combine all the greenery with a main street of grand old buildings still standing from the Victorian Gold Rush, Creswick looks more period movie set than a 21st-century town.  

old gold bank Victoria
Grand buildings from the Victorian gold rush. (Image: Visit Victoria)

This entire region of Victoria – the Central Goldfields – is as pretty-as-a-picture, but there’s something extra-special about Creswick. I used to live 30 minutes north; I’d drive in some evenings to cruise its main street at dusk, and pretend I was travelling back in time. 

It was sleepy back then, but that’s changed. Where I used to walk through its forest, now I’m hurtling down the state’s best new mountain bike trails. There’s a 60-kilometre network of mountain bike trails – dubbed Djuwang Baring – which make Creswick the state’s hottest new mountain biking destination.  

Meet Victoria’s new mountain biking capital 

Creswick bike trail
This historic town has become a mountain biking hotspot.

Victoria has a habit of turning quiet country towns into mountain biking hotspots. I was there in the mid-2000s when the tiny Otways village of Forrest embarked on an ambitious plan to save itself (after the death of its timber cutting industry) courtesy of some of the world’s best mountain bike trails. A screaming success it proved to be, and soon mountain bike trails began popping up all over Victoria. 

I’m no expert, so I like that a lot of Creswick’s trails are as scenic as they are challenging. I prefer intermediate trails, such as Down Martuk, with its flowing berms and a view round every corner. Everyone from outright beginners to experts can be happy here. There’s trails that take me down technical rock sections with plenty of bumps. But there’s enough on offer to appeal to day-trippers, as much as hard-core mountain-bikers. 

I love that the trails empty onto that grand old main street. There’s bars still standing from the Gold Rush of the 1850s I can refuel at. Like the award-winning Farmers Arms, not to be confused with the pub sharing its name in Daylesford. It’s stood since 1857. And The American Creswick built two years later, or Odessa Wine Bar, part of Leaver’s Hotel in an 1856-built former gold exchange bank.  

The Woodlands
The Woodlands is set on a large bushland property. (Image: Vanessa Smith Photography)

Creswick is also full of great cafes and restaurants, many of them set in the same old buildings that have stood for 170 years. So whether you’re here for the rush of the trails or the calm of town life, Creswick provides. 

A traveller’s checklist 

Staying there 

1970s log cabin
Inside the Woodlands, a chic 1970s log cabin. (Image: Vanessa Smith Photography)

RACV Goldfields Resort is a contemporary stay with a restaurant, swimming pool and golf course. The Woodlands in nearby Lal Lal comprises a chic log cabin set on a 16-hectare property abundant in native wildlife. 

Eating there 

Le Peche Gourmand
Le Peche Gourmand makes for the perfect pitstop for carb and sugar-loading.

The menu at Odessa at Leaver’s Hotel includes some Thai-inspired fare. Fuel up for your ride on baguettes and pastries from French patisserie Le Peche Gourmand . The Farmers Arms has been a much-loved local institution since 1857. 

Playing there 

Miss NorthcottsGarden
Miss Northcotts Garden is a charming garden store with tea room. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Creswick State Forest has a variety of hiking trails, including a section of the 210-kilometre-long Goldfields Track. Miss Northcotts Garden is a quaint garden store with tea room.