Review: QT Melbourne

A new boutique hotel in an old Melbourne cinema is full of surprises.

Forget cinematic excellence, the one thing I remember most about the old Greater Union cinema in Russell Street is the damn seats. With a low-slung design that finished midway up your back, they would have to go down as the most uncomfortable cinema seats I’ve ever had the misfortune of spending an hour and 25 in.

When the cinema closed in 2013, I was happy to see it go.

Today, the stark, modernist 1970s building that once housed these poorly designed pews is barely recognisable from its former self thanks to a super-glam overhaul by the QT hotel chain. And I’m happy to say, there’s not an uncomfortable piece of furniture to be found.

The details

Where: QT Melbourne: 133 Russell Street, Melbourne, Vic

What to expect

Since opening in September 2016, QT Melbourne has brought some much-needed personality to the city’s boutique hotel scene. Known for its quirkiness, QT Hotels seems befitting of a city like Sydney – where you’ll find the flagship – but I wasn’t convinced that its cheeky, OTT brashness would translate here in Melbourne.

accommodation Melbourne hoteThe gel-topped beds at QT Melbourne have a reputation that precedes them review — Public spaces create a sense of drama. QT Melbourne.

But when it comes to first impressions, QT Melbourne has a particularly strong game.

For a start, you can’t miss those shiny copper-capped entrance doors, even from half a block away. Then there’s the immaculate, designer-clad bell staff (or ‘Directors of Chaos’, as they’re known here).

On arrival, we’re greeted outside by two perfectly coiffed young women. Their flawless make-up and megawatt smiles set the scene for what is to be a suitably theatrical hotel experience.

Inside the lobby, the windows and ceilings soar and the staff look like extras from a Robert Palmer video. The moody-glam décor and sweeping, brass-lined staircase add to the mounting sense of drama. Check-in is seamless and the staff well drilled.

As we step into the low-lit lift en route to our room, we’re greeted by seductive coos from an anonymous woman speaking in French. Each lift plays a different voice-over in various languages.

QT quirky? You betcha.

While the building itself has been redesigned by Sydney-based architect Angelo Candalepas, the public spaces and 188 rooms have been conceived by interior designer Nic Graham and architect and designer Shelley Indyk respectively.

The room

The rooms themselves are well proportioned, with good natural light and wonderful views of the city’s rooftops and skyline. They exude a calm sophistication.

I’m told the gel-topped beds here have a reputation that precedes them, and after a night spent luxuriating, I’m soon calculating the financial practicalities of getting one myself.

Kitted out with black steel, slate tiling and a retractable rippled glass privacy screen, the adjoining bathroom is functional and discreet. The aromatic (Malin+Goetz) amenities are a nice touch.

The mini-bar is no afterthought (think high-end snacks, wacky gifts and craft spirits) and I’m always a fan of a portable Bose Bluetooth speaker in hotel rooms (it’s time for hoteliers everywhere to ditch dated plug-in speakers).

After an afternoon nap on that bed, we venture down to check out the rest of the hotel.

On the ground floor there’s a gift shop, a cafe with an amazing patisserie, a Japanese-Korean laneway bar called Hot Sauce and, next door, a shop that sells handcrafted Japanese knives.

On the first floor, there’s fine dining restaurant Pascale Bar & Grill with chef Paul Easson at the helm.

Upstairs, the rooftop bar shows us exactly how rooftops should be done and I have to admit that, yes, QT does have a thing or two to teach Melbourne about its boutique hotel scene.

The verdict

The arrival of QT adds a big dose of personality to Melbourne’s top-end hotel landscape. With excellent bars and dining, it’s as much a coup for locals as it is for visitors.

Score: 4/5
We rated: The unashamed glamour and extroversion of the place, the wow-factor of the rooftop and the supremely comfortable bed.
We’d change: The gym. With small proportions and no water or towels on offer, it felt like an afterthought.

All AT reviews are conducted anonymously and our writers pay their own way – so we experience exactly what you would.

Winding down in the Yarra Valley, where ‘work from home’ becomes ‘work from wine country’.

Steam from my morning coffee curls gently into the cool valley air, mist-veiled vineyards stretch out in neat rows below me. Magpies warble from trees, and the morning’s quiet carries the soft bleating of lambs from a nearby paddock. Midweek in the Yarra Valley has its own rhythm. It’s slower, quieter, with more empty tables at cafes and cellar doors, and walking trails I can claim all to myself. It’s as if the entire region takes a deep breath once the weekend crowd leaves.

walking trails in the Yarra Valley — You’ll find walking trails are less crowded during the week. (Image: Visit Victoria)

I haven’t come here for a holiday, but to do a little work somewhere other than my home office, where I spend too much time hunched over my desk. Deadlines still loom, meetings still happen, but with flexible work evolving from ‘work from home’ to ‘work from anywhere’, I’m swapping the view of my front yard to the vineyards.

A quiet afternoon at Yarra Valley Dairy

holding a glass of wine at Yarra Valley Dairy — Wine time at Yarra Valley Dairy, where you can enjoy a toastie or bagel in the cafe. (Image: Visit Victoria)

With the Yarra Valley just over an hour from the CBD, many Melburnians could drive here in their lunch break. I arrive late in the afternoon and am delighted to discover the Yarra Valley Dairy still open. On weekends, I’ve seen queues spilling out the door, but today there’s only one other couple inside. There’s no need to rush to secure a table; instead I browse the little store, shelves stacked with chutneys, spices, artisan biscuits and gorgeous crockery that would look right at home in my kitchen. It’s hard not to buy the lot.

a cheese tasting plate atYarra Valley Dairy — A cheese tasting plate at Yarra Valley Dairy.

I order a coffee and a small cheese platter, though the dairy has a full menu, and choose a wooden table with bentwood chairs by a wide window. The space feels part farm shed, part cosy café: corrugated iron ceiling, walls painted in muted tones and rustic furniture.

Outside, cows meander toward milking sheds. If pressed for time, there’s the option of quick cheese tastings – four samples for five dollars in five minutes – but today, I’m in no rush. I sip slowly, watching a grey sky settle over the paddock. Less than an hour ago I was hunched over my home-office desk, and now my racing mind has slowed to match the valley’s pace.

Checking in for vineyard views at Balgownie Estate

Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate has views across the vines.

As my car rolls to a stop at Balgownie Estate , I’m quietly excited, and curious to see if my plan to work and play comes off. I’ve chosen a suite with a spacious living area and a separate bedroom so I can keep work away from a good night’s sleep. I could have booked a cosy cottage, complete with open fireplace, a comfy couch and a kettle for endless cups of tea, but as I am still here to get some work done, I opt for a place that takes care of everything. Dinner is served in Restaurant 1309, as is breakfast.

oysters at Restaurant 1309, Balgownie Estate — Oysters pair perfectly with a crisp white at Restaurant 1309.

On my first evening, instead of the usual walk about my neighbourhood, I stroll through the estate at an unhurried pace. There’s no need to rush – someone else is preparing my dinner after all. The walking trails offer beautiful sunsets, and it seems mobs of kangaroos enjoy the view, too. Many appear, grazing lazily on the hillside.

I wake to the call of birds and, after breakfast, with the mist still lingering over the vineyards, I watch two hot-air balloons silently drift above clouds. Perched on a hill, Balgownie Estate sits above the mist, leaving the valley below veiled white.

kangaroos in Yarra Valley — Spotting the locals on an evening walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Exploring the Yarra Valley on two wheels

the Yarra Valley vineyards — Swap your home office for a view of the vineyards. (Image: Visit Victoria/Cormac Hanrahan)

Perhaps because the Yarra Valley is relatively close to where I live, I’ve never considered exploring the area any way other than by car or on foot. And with a fear of heights, a hot-air balloon is firmly off the table. But when I discover I can hop on two wheels from the estate and cycle into Yarra Glen, I quickly realise it’s the perfect way to step away from my laptop and experience a different side of the region.

COG Bike offers pedal-assist e-bikes, and while the bike trail and paths into town aren’t particularly hilly, having an extra bit of ‘oomph’ means I can soak up the surroundings. Those lambs I heard calling early in the morning? I now find them at the paddock fence, sniffing my hands, perhaps hoping for food. Cows idle nearby, and at a fork in the bike path I turn left toward town.

It’s still morning, and the perfect time for a coffee break at The Vallie Store. If it were the afternoon, I’d likely turn right, in the direction of four wineries with cellar doors. The ride is about 15 kilometres return, but don’t let that put you off. Staying off the highway, the route takes you along quiet backroads where you catch glimpses of local life – farmers on tractors, weathered sheds, rows of vines and the kind of peaceful countryside you don’t see from the main road.

A detour to the Dandenong Ranges

legs hanging over the sides of the train, Puffing Billy Railway — The iconic Puffing Billy runs every day except Christmas Day.

The beauty of basing myself in the Yarra Valley is how close everything feels. In barely half an hour I’m in the Dandenong Ranges, swapping vineyards for towering mountain ash and fern-filled gullies. The small villages of Olinda and Sassafras burst with cosy teahouses, antique stores and boutiques selling clothing and handmade body care items.

I’m drawn to RJ Hamer Arboretum – Latin for ‘a place for trees’. Having grown up among tall trees, I’ve always taken comfort in their presence, so this visit feels like a return of sorts. A stroll along the trails offers a choice: wide open views across patchwork paddocks below, or shaded paths that lead you deeper into the quiet hush of the peaceful forest.

The following day, I settle into a quiet corner on the balcony of Paradise Valley Hotel in Clematis and soon hear Puffing Billy’s whistle and steady chuff as the steam train climbs towards town. Puffing Billy is one of Australia’s most beloved steam trains, running through the Dandenong Ranges on a narrow-gauge track. It’s famous for its open carriages where passengers can sit with their legs hanging over the sides as the train chugs through the forest. This is the perfect spot to wave to those on the train.

After my midweek break, I find my inbox still full and my to-do list not in the least shrunken, just shifted from one task to another. But I return to my home office feeling lighter, clearer and with a smug satisfaction I’d stolen back a little time for myself. A midweek wind-down made all the difference.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Balgownie Estate offers everything from cellar door tastings to spa treatments and fine dining – all without leaving the property.

Playing there

the TarraWarra Museum of Art, Yarra Valley — Visit the TarraWarra Museum of Art. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Wander through Alowyn Gardens, including a stunning wisteria tunnel, then explore the collection of contemporary artworks at TarraWarra Museum of Art . Cycle the Yarra Valley with COG Bike to visit local wineries and cellar doors.

Eating and drinking there

Olinda Tea House offers an Asian-inspired high tea. Paradise Valley Hotel, Clematis has classic pub fare, while the iconic Yering Station offers wine tastings and a restaurant with seasonal dishes.

seasonal dishes at the restaurant inside Yering Station — The restaurant at Yering Station showcases the best produce of the Yarra Valley. (Image: Visit Victoria)