How to deal with the summer heat, Melbourne style.
Whether you immerse yourself in live music at St Kilda Festival , watch the world’s greatest tennis players have a crack at winning the Australian Open , celebrate diversity at the Midsumma Festival or spend a day at the MCG listening to the crack of leather on willow, Melbourne’s many festivals and events make the city buzz all summer long.
Taste a Melbourne summer at these restaurants and bars…
New addition to the scene, Morena Barra is an all-day diner bringing Latin American, cantina-style fare (and flair) to the city. Around the corner, the revamped Farmer’s Daughters rooftop is a green oasis ideal for afternoon snacks or an evening tipple.
Dine on delicious fare at Yarra Botanica. (Image: Kim Jane)
Floating on the Yarra, Ponyfish Island and Yarra Botanica also spell summer fun. Got a sweet tooth? Join the throngs outside Pidapipó on Degraves Street for to-die-for gelato and sorbetto.
Ponyfish Island floats on the Yarra River. (Image: Rob Blackburn)
Hit snooze at these Melbourne stays…
Nothing says summer like an open-air rooftop pool. At the Paris end of Bourke Street, Le Méridien’s rooftop pool has five-star views of the city’s skyline.
Retire to Le Meridien’s sky-high pool. (Image: Supplied/Diana Snape)
On Queen Street, Vibe Hotel has a humdinger of a rooftop bar. After checking in, head upstairs for a spritz accompanied by blockbuster Southbank views.
Brunch is served at Vibe Hotel’s rooftop bar, Fleet.
Melbourne’s summer to-do list
St Kilda Beach is a tried-and-true spot for a dip, foreshore walk or sunset cruise to see the thousand-strong colony of little penguins. At the Royal Botanic Gardens you can enjoy a genteel afternoon punting on the lake.
Further afield, the Fairfield Park Boathouse has gentleman’s rowboats, Canadian canoes or touring kayaks for self-propelled adventures on the Yarra.
Punting on the lake at Royal Botanic Gardens. (Image: Rob Blackburn)
Our hot tip: Known as the ‘Happy Slam’, the energy is unrivalled in Melbourne during the Australian Open tennis grand slam. Not into tennis? Head to the precinct anyway for seriously good cocktails, eats and vibes.
The action-packed Australian Open is one of the key events in Melbourne. (Image: Rob Blackburn)
Jo Stewart is a freelance features writer who pens stories about nature, pop culture, music, art, design and more from her home in the Macedon Ranges of Victoria. When not writing, you can find her trawling through vinyl records and vintage fashion at op shops, antique stores and garage sales.
Victoria’s ‘mussel capital’ is the source of exceptional shellfish used by top chefs far and wide. Step aboard a beautifully refurbished trawler to see how these plump and juicy bivalves are sustainably cultivated.
A curtain is slowly winched from the placid, teal waters just off Portarlington , like a floating garland beside our boat. The ropes heave with blue mussels, the star attraction of our tour. But as we reach to pluck our own, it’s quickly clear they’re not alone; a mass of weird and wonderful creatures has colonised the ropes, turning them into a living tapestry. ‘Fairy’ oysters, jelly-like sea squirts, and tiny, wriggling skeleton shrimp all inhabit this underwater ecosystem.
We prize our bivalve bounty from the ropes, and minutes later the mussels arrive split on a platter. The plump orange morsels are served raw, ready to be spritzed with wedges of lemon and a lick of chilli as we gaze out over the bay. They’re briny, tender and faintly sweet. “This wasn’t originally part of the tour,” explains Connie Trathen, who doubles as the boat’s cook, deckhand and guide. “But a chef [who came onboard] wanted to taste the mussels raw first, and it’s now become one of the key features.”
A humble trawler turned Hamptons-style dreamboat
Inspecting the bounty. (Image: Visit Victoria/Hannyn Shiggins)
It’s a crisp, calm winter’s day, and the sun is pouring down upon Valerie, a restored Huon pine workhorse that was first launched in January 1980. In a previous life she trawled the turbulent Bass Strait. These days she takes jaunts into Port Phillip Bay under the helm of Lance Wiffen, a fourth-generation Bellarine farmer, and the owner of Portarlington Mussel Tours . While Lance has been involved in the fishing industry for 30-plus years, the company’s tour boat only debuted in 2023.
See how these plump and juicy bivalves are sustainably cultivated.
It took more than three years to transform the former shark trawler into a dreamy, Hamptons-esque vessel, with little expense spared. Think muted green suede banquettes, white-washed walls, Breton-striped bench cushions, hardwood tables, bouquets of homegrown dahlias, and woollen blankets sourced from Waverley Mills, Australia’s oldest working textile mill. It’s intimate, too, welcoming 12 guests at most. And yet there’s nothing pretentious about the experience – just warm, down-to-earth Aussie hospitality.
As we cruise out, we crack open a bottle of local bubbles and nibble on the most beautifully curated cheese platter, adorned with seashells and grey saltbush picked from the water’s edge that very morning. Australasian gannets soar overhead, and I’m told it’s not uncommon for guests to spot the odd seal, pod of dolphins, or even the occasional little penguin.
The sustainable secret behind Victoria’s best mussels
Blue mussels sourced just off Portarlington.
Connie and Lance both extol the virtues of mussels. They’re delicious. A lean source of protein and packed with omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin B12, iron, selenium, and zinc. They’re cooked in a flash (Connie steams our fresh harvest with cider and onion jam). And they’re also widely regarded as one of the most sustainable foods in the world.
Mussels served with lemon and chilli.
“Aquaculture is [often] seen as destructive, so a lot of our guests are really surprised about how environmentally friendly and sustainable our industry is,” Lance says. “[Our mussels] would filter 1.4 billion litres of water a day,” he adds, explaining how mussels remove excess nitrogen and phosphorus from the water. “And through biomineralisation, we lock carbon into mussel shells.”
Mussels are a sustainable food.
Despite their glowing list of accolades, these molluscs have long been seen as the oysters’ poorer cousins. “It was a really slow start,” explains Lance, who says that in the early days of his career, “you could not sell mussels in Victoria”.
But word has slowly caught on. Chefs as globally acclaimed as Attica’s Ben Shewry and even René Redzepi of Noma, Denmark, have travelled to these very waters just to try the shellfish at the source, sharing only the highest praise, and using Lance’s mussels in their restaurants.
Sampling the goods onboard. (Image: Visit Victoria/Hannyn Shiggins)
According to Lance there’s one obvious reason why the cool depths of Portarlington outshine other locations for mussel farming. “The water quality is second to none,” he says, noting how other regions are frequently rocked by harvest closures due to poor water quality. “We grow, without a doubt, some of the best shellfish in the world.” And with Lance’s bold claims backed up by some of the industry’s greatest names, perhaps it won’t be much longer until more Aussies uncover the appeal of Portarlington’s mussels.
