22 of the best restaurants in Canberra

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Great restaurants abound in Canberra, a city that is playing it cool with a diverse array of places to eat and drink.

Visitors to the nation’s capital are spoilt for choice when it comes to discovering great Canberra restaurants. In fact, it seems the list of new and noteworthy places popping up all over the city is never-ending.

That’s why we’ve narrowed down our guide to include some of the best Canberra restaurants, from those that are longstanding institutions to award-winning newcomers worthy of our attention. Below is our list of favourite Canberra restaurants to try right now.

THE SHORTLIST

Hottest dining gem: Such and Such

Hidden gem: Bar Rochford

Family-friendly spot: Agostinis

Best for brunch: Edgar’s

Best for fine dining: Pilot

Casual Eats: Akiba

Great for Special Occasions: Wilma

Most Instagrammable: Such and Such

Best for business lunches: Louis

Best for late-night dining: Akiba

1. Agostinis

The search for the most family-friendly Italian restaurant in Canberra is over. Drumroll please: it’s Agostinis at the East Hotel. This inviting Griffith restaurant is known for its menu of freshly made pasta and pizzas curated by executive chef Francesco Balestrieri to please everyone in the family. Yes that includes Nonna.

a charcuterie board at Agostinis, Canberra
Agostinis serves up memorable Italian fare.

Add to this eclectic Kelly Ross-designed interiors with leopard-print booths and slogans like ‘You had me at pizza’ in pops of pink neon and you will understand the fun, free-wheeling essence of the space. In a full-circle moment, siblings Dan and Dion Bisa pay homage to their mother Marisa whose family owned a restaurant in northern Italy named Agostinis.

  • Cuisine: Italian
  • Average price: $$$
  • Atmosphere: Fun and free-wheeling
  • Reviews: 5/5
  • Location: 69 Canberra Ave, Griffith

2. Bar Rochford

Bar Rochford bills itself as a place to “pull records, sling sharp spirits and love good service".

the classic interior of Bar Rochford, Canberra
Head upstairs to the chic dining space. (Image: VisitCanberra)

That tells you everything you should expect from this hip haven hidden away upstairs in the iconic Melbourne building. This is one of the best Canberra venues – equal parts restaurant and bar – for its fun vibe, elevated food and refined drinks list.

a plate of food on white background at Bar Rochford, Canberra
Bar Rochford has elevated its menu. (Image: VisitCanberra)

It’s Canberra venues like Bar Rochford that Good Food Guide editor Callan Boys cites as making Canberra “one of the most exciting cities to eat in Australia". Like Boys, we’re mad fans of You Am I. And any bar that features a giant portrait of lead singer Tim Rogers feels like it’s part of Canberra’s zeitgeist.

wine bottles displayed on the wall at Bar Rochford, Canberra
Choose from Bar Rochford’s refined drinks list. (Image: VisitCanberra)
  • Cuisine: Contemporary
  • Average price: $$$
  • Atmosphere: Groovy and grungy
  • Reviews: 5/5
  • Location: 65 London Cct

3. Lazy Su

Lazy Su  gets top marks for its focused flavours. This neon-lit space is fun and festive like a K-pop speakeasy meets izakaya meets American diner. Chug down a few shots of soju at the Asian eating house which will transport you back to the 90s with its soundtrack of absolute bangers.

dining at Lazy Su, Canberra
Lazy Su is a K-pop speakeasy meets izakaya meets American diner. (Image: Lazy Su)

The common denominator on the menu with Japanese, Korean and American influences is fun. Think wagyu cheesesteak spring rolls with kimchi mayo. Or nori tacos stuffed with sushi rice, salmon and avocado puree. Imagine if you will an eatery with big ambitions and zero pretentions. Oh hey Lazy Su. How do you do?

  • Cuisine: Japanese, Korean and American fusion
  • Average price: $$$
  • Atmosphere: Groovy and grungy
  • Reviews: 4/5
  • Location: 1/9 Lonsdale St, Braddon

4. Such And Such

Nerdy food types be nerding when news broke that Dash Rumble, Ross McQuinn and Mal Hanslow, of two-hatted Pilot in Ainslie were opening a sister venue. That venture is Such And Such , a hole-in-the-wall eatery much more relaxed than Pilot, Canberra’s top fine-dining restaurant, but no less delicious and inventive. You’ll need to book in advance as there are only a handful of tables and a few bar spots.

people dining inside Such And Such, Canberra
Such And Such is a hole-in-the-wall eatery more relaxed than Pilot. (Image: Cassie Abraham)

The menu is seasonal. But do order the school prawns in 666 spice if they’re on the menu. You won’t be sorry. The new venue is in Constitution Place, near Canberra  Theatre. The interiors were designed by Mark Brook of mymymy and pay homage to the arts precinct with elements of his design adding a touch of theatre.

a seafood plate at Such And Such, Canberra
Enjoy inventive and contemporary dishes. (Image: Cassie Abraham)
  • Cuisine: Contemporary
  • Average price: $$$
  • Atmosphere: Sophisticated
  • Reviews: 5/5
  • Location: 220 London Cct

5. Wilma

Getting around to all the major attractions in Canberra can be a lot as there are so many great things to see and do in Canberra. But you gotta eat, right? We recommend heading to Wilma, a magical spot for a few cocktails and a feed in the heart of Canberra’s CBD.

a staff preparing at Wilma, Canberra
Wilma’s serves progressive pan-Asian dishes. (Image: Wilma)

A two-tier konro yakitori grill takes pride of place in this stunning two-storey eatery, which is named in honour of the animated character Wilma Flintstone, who also cooks over fire.

a spread of food and cocktails on the table at Wilma, Canberra
Hop over to Wilma’s for a yakitori feed and inventive cocktails. (Image: Wilma)

Asian barbecue with Michael Box at the helm never looked so good. Bookend your evening with cocktails at The Pearl, which occupies the ground floor of the two-storey venue. It’s one of the best bars in Canberra for a tipple or two.

the dimly lit dining interior of Wilma, Canberra
Wilma’s is a sophisticated spot for dinner in the heart of Canberra’s CBD. (Image: Wilma)
  • Cuisine: Asian BBQ
  • Average price: $$$
  • Atmosphere: Magical
  • Reviews: 4/5
  • Location: 1 Genge St

6. Rebel Rebel 

Acclaimed chef Sean McConnell is behind ultra-cool Canberra restaurant Rebel Rebel , a glam eatery with lofty ceilings in the hotel hub encompassing QT Canberra and Ovolo Nishi.

the dining interior of Rebel Rebel, Canberra
Sit down for a meal at Rebel Rebel, a glam eatery with lofty ceilings. (Image: VisitCanberra)

McConnell held the reins at Monster Bar & Kitchen at Hotel-Hotel (now Ovolo Nishi) for four years. And his love of shared dining continues here with dishes such as kingfish in a burnt mandarin vinaigrette or fried quail with harissa and lemon.

dining at Rebel Rebel, Canberra
Rebel Rebel serves up modern Australian cuisine. (Image: VisitCanberra)

It’s one of the best destinations for dining in Canberra. Enjoy top drops from a modern list of natural wines, local faves and international gems and take home a bottle at a retail price.

a close-up of food on a plate at Rebel Rebel, Canberra
Dine on bold and modern flavours at Rebel Rebel. (Image: VisitCanberra)
  • Cuisine: Contemporary
  • Average price: $$$
  • Atmosphere: Sleek and sexy
  • Reviews: 5/5
  • Location: 21-23 Marcus Clarke St

7. Italian & Sons

Italian & Sons  is the more casual offshoot of fine dining restaurant Mezzalira, one of Canberra’s best restaurants. And it has gained its own devoted following in Canberra for its fresh, authentic Italian cuisine.

the dining scene at Italian & Sons, Canberra
This casual eatery was awarded a Chef’s Hat in 2024.  (Image: VisitCanberra)

Enjoy a range of cicchietti (snack plates) such as salty anchovies and San Daniele prosciutto with a glass of vino. Or go all out with the tasting menu, which includes shared antipasti and three individual courses.

a plate of food at Italian & Sons, Canberra
Italian & Sons is renowned for serving fresh, authentic Italian cuisine. (Image: VisitCanberra)

Note: Italian & Sons does one of the best negronis in all the land.

  • Cuisine: Italian
  • Average price: $$$$
  • Atmosphere: Dark and moody
  • Reviews: 4/5
  • Location: 7 Lonsdale St, Braddon

8. Compa

Matt Moran’s first Canberra venue, Compa , is designed to showcase produce from the Moran Family Farm and local produce that changes with the seasons.  The atmospheric Italian steakhouse has exposed wooden beams, white stucco walls and a long kitchen leaving plenty of room for the chefs to exercise their talents.

the interior of Compa, Canberra
Compa features a moody interior. (Image: Buffet Digital / Compa)

The dark, moody space was reimagined by Studio A-N and features wicker shades, cosy booths and softly blended tones and textures. The meaty menu showcases different steaks as well as Snowy River trout and Abrolhos Island scallops served on the shell.

a spread of food on the table at Compa, Canberra
The menu showcases produce from the Moran Family Farm. (Image: Buffet Digital / Compa)

Can’t get a booking? Head next door to & Sando, one of the best cafes in Canberra.

a bowl of food at Compa, Canberra
Dig into a satisfying dessert at Compa. (Image: Buffet Digital / Compa)
  • Cuisine: Steakhouse
  • Average price: $$$
  • Atmosphere: Charming bistro feel
  • Reviews: 4/5
  • Location: 148 Bunda St

9. Vincent

Vincent is all about pairing great food with great wine. The name is an amalgam of ‘vino’ which is wine and ‘cent’ which is 100 (the number of bottles the bar aims to have on offer).

the black and sleek dining interior of Vincent, Canberra
The dimly lit dining room at Vincent feels laid-back and relaxed. (Image: VisitCanberra)

Expect unconventional drops from around the globe ready for teaming with small plates such as hiramasa kingfish or beef tartare.

two women drinking wine together at Vincent, Canberra
Expect unconventional drops from around the globe. (Image: VisitCanberra)

Although dining at Vincent is a serious culinary experience, the dimly lit dining room feels laid-back and relaxed. Canberra has a list of great restaurants to choose from. But Vincent is truly one of Canberra’s best places to eat. Sit at the lengthy communal bar to enjoy the conviviality of sharing a meal together.

a bowl of food with a glass of wine at Vincent, Canberra
Vincent is all about pairing great food with great wine. (Image: VisitCanberra)
  • Cuisine: Contemporary
  • Average price: $$$
  • Atmosphere: Intimate and moody
  • Reviews: 4/5
  • Location: 3/48 Macquarie Street, Barton

10. Onzieme

This hatted restaurant is considered one of the best Canberra restaurants for its nose-to-tail approach and hyper-focus on seasonal ingredients.

a staff writing on the glass walls at Onzieme Restaurant, Canberra
Onzieme Restaurant evokes a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. (Image: Lean Timms)

The menu at Onzieme also shifts according to what local makers and growers bring to the restaurant. Leave it to the chef to find inspiration from a bag of potatoes. Or a tray of pomegranates.

a spread of food on the table at Onzieme Restaurant, Canberra
The seasonal menu s on seasonal ingredients at Onzieme Restaurant. (Image: Megann Evans)

It’s not hard to find locals who dine at Onzieme on a regular basis as the atmosphere at the waterfront restaurant could not be more welcoming. In short, Onzieme is one of the best restaurants in Canberra to book if you’ve only got a limited time in Australia’s capital of cool.

a plate of food at Onzieme Restaurant, Canberra
Onzieme prides itself on serving contemporary cuisine. (Image: Megann Evans)
  • Cuisine: Contemporary
  • Average price: $$$
  • Atmosphere: Welcoming
  • Reviews: 4/5
  • Location: 5/39 Kennedy Street, Kingston

11. Mu Omakase

Mu Omakase is where Canberrans head for modern Japanese. And the scene here on a weekend speaks volumes about the intimate omakase eatery as the chatter of happy diners fills the 10-seater space.

people sitting and drinking at the bar counter of Mu Omakase, Canberra
This intimate omakase eatery is a best-kept secret. (Image: VisitCanberra)

The modern Japanese diner, which is part of the Chairman Group, serves a set 12-course omakase menu.

a hand decorating an oyster at Mu Omakase, Canberra
Each item on the menu at Mu Omakase is meticulously prepared. (Image: VisitCanberra)

Access to the eatery is through the swanky Cicada Bar, which is one of the best places in Canberra for a tipple or two.  Omakase means ‘to entrust’.

pouring Japanese alcohol into a cup at Mu Omakase, Canberra
Drink up sake at Mu Omakase. (Image: VisitCanberra)

Trust the chef to deliver dishes with artistry and plating precision such as swordfish sashimi or drunken king prawn swimming in a rich lobster bisque.

a cocktail drink on the table at Mu Omakase, Canberra
You can also try their sophisticated cocktails. (Image: VisitCanberra)
  • Cuisine: Modern Japanese
  • Average: price $$$
  • Atmosphere: Intimate
  • Reviews: 5/5
  • Location: 1 Constitution Avenue

12. Miss Van’s

Miss Van’s  doesn’t disappoint those after pan-Asian flavours in Canberra. The restaurant serves up modern Asian-Australian fare that celebrates founder Andrew Duong’s Laos-Vietnamese roots.

the restaurant exterior of Miss Van’s, Canberra
Miss Van’s restaurant blends indoor/outdoor dining. (Image: Pew Pew Studio)

The menu honours decades of old ways and marries them with new traditions.

an Asian meal at Miss Van’s, Canberra
Enjoy popular Asian dishes at Miss Van’s. (Image: Pew Pew Studio)

Try popular dishes such as the banh mi, which has been on offer since Miss Van’s beginnings as a shipping container food outlet, through to the spicy, sour seafood tom yum filled with black mussels, squid and prawns.

the bright and colourful dining interior at Miss Van’s, Canberra
Soak up the bright and colourful ambience at Miss Van’s. (Image: Pew Pew Studio)
  • Cuisine: Contemporary Asian
  • Average price": $$$
  • Atmosphere: Modern and fun
  • Reviews: 4/5
  • Location: Shop 4, 113-119 Marcus Clarke St

13. eightysix

For a restaurant to stand out in the crowded Canberra landscape it has to be special. With not one but two venues (in Braddon and Woden), eightysix should be on your list of eateries to try when visiting Canberra for a long weekend.

the dining interior of eightysix north, Canberra
Pop by eightysix north for an unforgettable dining experience. (Image: Pew Pew Studio)

There are subtle differences between the two – eightysix Braddon is all about experimentation, with quirky menu items like raw kingfish with pickled cumquats, jalapenos and eschalots. But the restaurant’s southern venue tilts towards Italian fare with dishes such as pork Milanese and ricotta gnocchi in fennel sugo.

a plate of food on black background at eightysix south, Canberra
The restaurant’s southern venue tilts towards Italian fare. (Image: Pew Pew Studio)
  • Cuisine: Modern Australian
  • Average price: $$$
  • Atmosphere: Modern and fun
  • Reviews 4/5
  • Location 45 Furzer St, Phillip; Corner Elouera and Lonsdale Streets, Braddon

14. Terra

Terra means earth and this dining room is a mix of stone and wood and textures that resemble Canberra’s natural surrounds. The set-up at Terra is canteen-style. Choose from a protein and various sides or one of its massive burgers. The crispy hot chips have a cult following here for the miso gravy that brings an unexpected flash of tanginess. The vibe at dinner is a tad more refined. But it’s still Terra’s chargrilled, smoked and woodfired meats that take centre stage. And the sides are not to be outdone, particularly the iceberg salad with sesame praline and cucumber pickles.

  • Cuisine: Modern Australian
  • Average price: $$$
  • Atmosphere: Modern and fun
  • Reviews: 4/5
  • Location: 40 Marcus Clarke St

15. Edgar’s

Canberra has long had its fair share of great places for brunch. And Edgar’s is up there with the best of them. This farm-to-table Ainslie eatery has been going strong for more than two decades and the food is exceptional. There will always be certain standbys on the menu no matter the month – such as the brioche cinnamon toast or brekky burger.

people dining at Edgar's, Canberra
Edgar’s is a vibrant, multi-venue destination. (Image: The Inn at Edgar’s)

When your food is ready, take it to an outdoor table outside where you can make friends with some local MAMILs. Edgar’s is our pick for a low-key Canberra brunch.

a spread of food on the table at Edgar's, Canberra
Don’t miss out on the exceptional menu at Edgar’s. (Image: The Inn at Edgar’s)

What makes Edgar’s Inn so enticing is the fact you can go from breakfast to lunch and dinner within the multi-venue space, which includes Wakefield’s Bar & Wine , Mama Dough , Edgar’s and Edgar’s Inn .

the dining interior of Edgar's, Canberra
Edgar’s is a top spot for brunch. (Image: The Inn at Edgar’s)
  • Cuisine: Modern Australian
  • Average price: $$
  • Atmosphere: Warm and enticing
  • Reviews: 5/5
  • Location: 1 Edgar St, Ainslie

16. Raku

The fact you’re likely to see high-profile politicians or diplomats from the Japanese Embassy here hints at the fact you’ll be richly rewarded with dinner at Raku .

the dining interior of Raku with moody lighting
Pull up a seat at the ultra-chic Raku. (Image: VisitCanberra)

The restaurant also draws international students keen to explore beyond their own neighbourhood. The raw bar in the centre of the dining room at Raku tells you all about the quality of the sushi and sashimi on offer.

sushi at Raku, Canberra
Dine authentic Japanese at Raku. (Image: VisitCanberra)

Take a seat at the counter in this elegant space with blond timber tones and moody lighting and you’ll feel like you’ve tumbled down an alleyway in Tokyo. Recommended is the express lunch.

the sleek dining interior of Raku, Canberra
Be transported to Tokyo in this sleek Japanese eatery. (Image: VisitCanberra)
  • Cuisine: Japanese
  • Average price: $$$
  • Atmosphere: Moody and elegant
  • Reviews: 4/5
  • Location: 148 Bunda St

17. Chairman & Yip

This dimly lit restaurant is a Canberra institution that has been going strong for almost three decades. While it’s moved from its original spot in Civic to Barton, Chairman & Yip  remains vamped up, all dark slatted woods and stacked stones that demarcate the dining room.

people dining at Chairman & Yip, Canberra
The interior at Chairman & Yip is elevated with dark slatted woods and stacked stones. (Image: Stuart Miller)

Solve the dilemma of what to order and opt for the tasting menu, which includes duck pancakes, crispy pork belly with pineapple compote and binchotan-grilled wagyu steak paired with wines from nearby wineries. The Chairman Group also has Lanterne Rooms, Mu, Cicada Bar and the Karl Bar.

a Cantonese dish at Chairman & Yip, Canberra
Dine on modern Cantonese dishes at Chairman & Yip. (Image: Stuart Miller)
  • Cuisine: Modern Cantonese
  • Average price: $$$
  • Atmosphere: Moody and elegant
  • Reviews: 4/5
  • Location: 1 Burbury Cl, Barton

18. Akiba

This modern hawker-style food hall is popular with Canberra’s university students who converge here to meet new friends. The showy Asian diner is all neon nights, exposed brickwork and long communal tables that run the length of the colourful corner eatery.

Gather your tribe to enjoy a mix of street-food-style snacks at Akiba  such as Japanese fried chicken and kimchi and stacked steamers of dumplings.

cooked shrimps on a plate at Akiba restaurant in Canberra
Akiba champions Pan Asian cuisine. (Image: VisitCanberra)

Order a few ‘akipops’ (boozy juices) from Thursdays to Sundays when DJs transform the dining room into a dance floor.  Weekend arvos equal yum cha. Akiba is a sibling to Liquita, Wilma and The Pearl, all restaurants to have on your radar in Canberra.

neon electric electric signage at Akiba restaurant in Canberra
Come Thursday nights, Akiba transforms into a dance floor.
  • Cuisine: Pan Asian
  • Average price: $$$
  • Atmosphere: Vibey food hall
  • Reviews: 4/5
  • Location: 40 Bunda St

19. Louis

The city of Canberra was in mourning when one of its most acclaimed restaurants, Aubergine, was shuttered in 2022. But chef Ben Willis is back, as culinary director at Louis Dining .

the dimly lit dining interior of Louis, Canberra
Dine at the dimly lit Louis, a Euro-style bistro in Canberra. (Image: Dexter Kim)

The Euro-style bistro was designed by award-winning Sydney-based design firm Luchetti Krelle and is popular with political heavyweights due to its proximity to the Parliamentary Triangle.

the interior details of Louis restaurant, Canberra
Settle into the moody dining room for Gallic fare.

The French fine diner at Hotel Realm is as dreamy for a business lunch as it is for dinner. Sit at one of the tan banquettes around the high tables in the bar section. Or settle into the midnight blue dining room for Gallic fare such as potato and leek pithivier with broccolini and parsley puree.

the terrace of Louis restaurant, Canberra
Louis is designed by award-winning Sydney-based design firm Luchetti Krelle.
  • Cuisine: French
  • Average price: $$$
  • Atmosphere: European-style bistro
  • Reviews: 4/5
  • Location: 18 National Circuit, Barton

20. Ondine

Ondine reads like a love letter to Europe. And while its laid-back bistro ambience and moody blue hues beckon, it’s the gastronomic experience that will make this your favourite new casual place to eat out in Canberra. Exchange smug glances with some of the other savvy diners who are also here to enjoy a leisurely afternoon meal with a glass of wine. The menu at this Canberra restaurant includes a prix fixe option for three courses from $67, surely one of the best-value meals in Canberra. Flag down your waiter to request the herbed pork rillettes, chicken liver pate and traditional French onion soup.

a spoonful of custard dessert on a plate at Ondine, Canberra
The menu skews towards French cuisine. (Image: Ondine / Pew Pew Studios)
  • Cuisine: Modern European
  • Average price: $$
  • Atmosphere: Casual bistro vibe
  • Reviews: 4/5
  • Location: 7 Duff Place, Deakin

21. Pilot

Pilot  certainly found an audience when it descended on the suburb of Airlie. The acclaimed restaurant in the middle of this hip strip has made a big impact on the city’s dining scene since opening in 2019. In fact, it’s fair to say it prompted a raft of restaurateurs to seek opportunities in the suburbs.

the dining interior of Pilot, Canberra
Pilot has elevated the city’s dining scene. (Image: VisitCanberra)

The two-hatted restaurant offers tasting menus for lunch and dinner. Check @pilotrestaurant on Instagram to see what the chefs are cooking up on any given day. Elevated bites may include the blue mackerel cracker served in a potato dip with herbs and lemon described as ‘fish and chips but kinda backwards’. Or the broad-bean minestrone that is as wholesome as it is pretty.

a table-top view of food at Pilot, Canberra
The two-hatted restaurant offers tasting menus for lunch and dinner. (Image: VisitCanberra)
  • Cuisine: Contemporary Australian
  • Average price: $$$$
  • Atmosphere: Fancy fine diner
  • Reviews: 5/5
  • Location: 1 Wakefield Gardens, Ainslie Shops

22. Lunetta & Lunetta Trattoria, NSW

the restaurant interior of Lunetta & Lunetta Trattoria, NSW
Dine on Italian-inspired cuisine in the private dining space. (Image: Lillie Thompson)

Lunetta and Lunetta Trattoria have flung open their doors in one of Canberra’s much-loved modernist buildings perched atop Red Hill. While Lunetta Trattoria is the low-key relaxed Italian neighbourhood hang on the ground floor, Lunetta is the more elevated offering in every sense of the word. Expect drama and beauty at every turn thanks to the considered interiors by studio ACME, which honour the building’s original bones.

  • Cuisine: Modern Italian
  • Average price: $$$$
  • Atmosphere:
  • Reviews: 4/5
  • Location: Downstairs/60 Red Hill Dr

Discover the best cafes in Canberra

Carla Grossetti
Carla Grossetti avoided accruing a HECS debt by accepting a cadetship with News Corp. at the age of 18. After completing her cadetship at The Cairns Post Carla moved south to accept a position at The Canberra Times before heading off on a jaunt around Canada, the US, Mexico and Central America. During her career as a journalist, Carla has successfully combined her two loves – of writing and travel – and has more than two decades experience switch-footing between digital and print media. Carla’s CV also includes stints at delicious., The Sydney Morning Herald, and The Australian, where she specialises in food and travel. Carla also based herself in the UK where she worked at Conde Nast Traveller, and The Sunday Times’ Travel section before accepting a fulltime role as part of the pioneering digital team at The Guardian UK. Carla and has been freelancing for Australian Traveller for more than a decade, where she works as both a writer and a sub editor.
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Explore historic wine towns and sculpture trails on a 3-day self-guided Murray River cruise

Slow down and find your rhythm on a Murray River journey through time and place. 

Trust is a funny thing. It seems not that long ago that my mother was insisting on pouring the milk into my cereal bowl, because she didn’t trust me not to slosh it over the table, and yet here I am on the Murray River at Mildura in far north-west Victoria, being handed the keys to a very new and very expensive luxury houseboat. 

After a crash course in how not to crash, I’m at the wheel of the good ship Elevate – pride of the All Seasons fleet – guiding her upstream past red-ochre cliffs as pelicans glide above the rippled river and kookaburras call from reedy banks. There’s a brief moment of breath-holding while I negotiate a hairpin turn around a jagged reef of skeletal, submerged gum trees, before a cheer rings out and calm descends as the timeless river unfurls in front of us.    

Murray River
The Murray River winding through Yarrawonga. (Image: Rob Blackburn)

Setting sail from Mildura 

Murray River birds
Home to a large number of bird species, including pelicans. (Image: The Precint Studios)

A journey along the Murray River is never less than magical, and launching from Mildura makes perfect sense. Up here the river is wide and largely empty, giving novice skippers like myself the confidence to nudge the 60-tonne houseboat up to the riverbank where we tie up for the night, without fear of shattering the glass elevator (the boat is fully wheelchair accessible) or spilling our Champagne.  

My friends and I spend three days on the water, swimming and fishing, sitting around campfires onshore at night, and basking in air so warm you’d swear you were in the tropics. The simplicity of river life reveals an interesting dichotomy: we feel disconnected from the world but at the same time connected to Country, privileged to be part of something so ancient and special.  

Stop one: Echuca  

19th-century paddlesteamers
A historic 19th-century paddlesteamer cruises along the Murray River. (Image: Visit Victoria)

The six-hour drive from Melbourne to Mildura (or four hours and 20 minutes from Adelaide) is more than worth it, but you don’t have to travel that far to find fun on the river. Once Australia’s largest inland port, Echuca is the closest point on the Murray to Melbourne (two hours 45 minutes), and you’ll still find a plethora of paddlesteamers tethered to the historic timber wharf, a throwback to the thriving river trade days of the 19th century. The PS Adelaide, built in 1866 and the oldest wooden-hulled paddlesteamer operating in the world, departs daily for one-hour cruises, while a brand-new paddlesteamer, the PS Australian Star , is launching luxury seven-night voyages in December through APT Touring.  

The town is also a hot food and wine destination. St Anne’s Winery at the historic Port of Echuca precinct has an incredibly photogenic cellar door, set inside an old carriage builders’ workshop on the wharf and filled with huge, 3000-litre port barrels. The Mill, meanwhile, is a cosy winter spot to sample regional produce as an open fire warms the red-brick walls of this former flour mill.  

Stop two: Barmah National Park 

Barmah National Park
Camping riverside in Barmah National Park, listed as a Ramsar site for its significant wetland values. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

Just half-an-hour upstream, Barmah National Park is flourishing, its river red gum landscape (the largest in the world) rebounding magnificently after the recent removal of more than 700 feral horses. The internationally significant Ramsar-listed wetland sits in the heart of Yorta Yorta Country, with Traditional Owners managing the environment in close partnership with Parks Victoria. Walkways weave through the forest, crossing creeks lined with rare or threatened plants, passing remnants of Yorta Yorta oven mounds and numerous scar trees, where the bark was removed to build canoes, containers or shields.  

The Dharnya Centre (open weekdays until 3pm) is the cultural hub for the Yorta Yorta. Visitors can learn about the ecological significance of the Barmah Lakes on a 90-minute river cruise, led by a First Nations guide, or take a one-hour, guided cultural walking tour along the Yamyabuc Trail.  

Stop three: Cobram 

Yarrawonga MulwalaGolf Club Resort
Yarrawonga Mulwala Golf Club Resort. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Continue east to Cobram to find the southern hemisphere’s largest inland beach. Swarming with sun-seekers in summer, the white sand of Thompson’s Beach is shaded by majestic river red gums and dotted with hundreds of beach umbrellas, as beachgoers launch all manner of water craft and set up stumps for beach cricket. But the beach is at its most captivating at sunset, when the crowds thin out, the glassy river mirrors the purple sky, and the canopies of the gum trees glow fiery orange. 

The region is also home to some fine resorts and indulgent retreats. Yarrawonga Mulwala Golf Club Resort has two riverside championship golf courses, luxury apartments and self-contained villas. While not strictly on the Murray, the historic wine town of Rutherglen is rife with boutique (and unique) accommodation, including an exquisitely renovated red-brick tower in a French provincial-style castle at Mount Ophir Estate. Fans of fortified wines can unravel the mystery of Rutherglen’s ‘Muscat Mile’, meeting the vignerons and master-blenders whose artistry has put the town on the global map for this rich and complex wine style.  

Stop four: Albury-Wodonga 

First Nations YindyamarraSculpture Walk
First Nations Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk is part of the Wagirra Trail. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

Follow the river far enough upstream and you’ll arrive at the twin border cities of Albury-Wodonga. The Hume Highway thunders through, but serenity can be found along the five-kilometre Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk – part of the Wagirra Trail that meanders through river wetlands just west of Albury in Wiradjuri country. Fifteen sculptures by local First Nations artists line the trail, conveying stories of reconciliation, enduring connection to culture, local Milawa lore and traditional practices. It feels a long way from Mildura, and it is, but the pelicans and kookaburras remind us that it’s the same river, the great conduit that connects our country. 

A traveller’s checklist  

Staying there

New Mildura motel Kar-rama
New Mildura motel Kar-rama. (Image: Iain Bond Photo)

Kar-Rama is a brand-new boutique, retro-styled motel in Mildura, with a butterfly-shaped pool and a tropical, Palm Springs vibe. Echuca Holiday Homes has a range of high-end accommodation options, both on the riverfront and in town. 

Playing there

BruceMunro’s Trail of Lights in Mildura
Bruce Munro’s Trail of Lights in Mildura. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Artist Bruce Munro’s Trail of Lights installation, comprising more than 12,000 illuminated ‘fireflies’, is currently lighting up Mildura’s Lock Island in the middle of the Murray. Murray Art Museum Albury (MAMA) is a hub for contemporary art, with a rotating roster of exhibitions, and is a major outlet for young and First Nations artists. 

Eating there

Mildura’s diverse demographic means it’s a fantastic place to eat. Andy’s Kitchen is a local favourite, serving up delicious pan-Asian dishes and creative cocktails in a Balinese-style garden setting. Call in to Spoons Riverside in Swan Hill to enjoy locally sourced, seasonal produce in a tranquil setting overlooking the river.