Recruited from the Middle East and India for their hardiness, camels were the backbone of support behind some of this country’s most ambitious infrastructure projects, writes Jessica Zavolokin.
It’s the New Year’s Eve of 1865 in Port Augusta, South Australia, and a crowd of people gather to witness the spectacle of 124 camels being hoisted from a ship onto a new continent and 31 peculiar, sandal-clad men setting foot on unfamiliar territory.
These foreigners would go on to be a pillar for the Australian economy, ultimately supporting the outback for 50 years, playing a pivotal and much understated role in Australian history.
Nineteenth-century Australia was a magnet for explorers, settlers and prospectors who were eager to map the vast and inhospitable continent, but it had become clear that horses, the traditional means of transport, weren’t suitable for such tough conditions. The solution was the so-called Afghan Cameleers (a misnomer because they weren’t all from Afghanistan).
They would assist exploration parties – such as the Burke and Wills expedition of 1860 and Madigan’s Simpson Desert Crossing in 1939 – hauling supplies and resources where horses and oxen couldn’t.
Madigan initially described the camels as “queer, stupid and unapproachable", but acknowledged their capabilities in the soaring heat when food and water dried up. He said the camel “kneels, uncomplaining and unconcerned, a tower of strength and comfort… good for another 200 miles".
There were some 800 cameleers in Australia by the 1890s; not only did these men and their steeds assist with exploration, they played a momentous role in our country’s infrastructure.
Most significantly, they were an integral part in the construction of the Overland Telegraph between Adelaide and Darwin and later The Ghan railway between Adelaide and Alice Springs, carrying building and railway resources, food, furniture, water, mail and medicine.
Graham Dadlah, a train driver on The Ghan for more than 35 years, honours his ancestral legacy: “My great grandfather was one of the first cameleers to come out in the late 1800s to Australia; he was brought out here to work the camel trains and deliver transport for the telegraph line through to Alice Springs."
More than 150 years on, he feels great pride taking passengers through the heart of the country. “It’s a unique job and I feel honoured to be a driver of this legendary train."
There’s nothing quite like Melbourne in the warmer months. Come spring, the city emerges from its cold-weather cocoon and brims with marquee events, vibrant seasonal menus, brilliant blooms and a fresh energy.
The centre of the city is where most of the magic happens. It’s a labyrinth of art-lined alleys and meandering laneways, filled with restaurants, cafes, rooftop bars, galleries, live music joints, theatres, boutiques, high-end hotels like The Westin Melbourne and much, much more. In spring and summer, especially, locals and travellers alike come to enjoy the balmy weather and celebratory spirit.
If you’re planning to be one of them, here are the best places for eating, drinking, exploring and staying.
Where to stay
The Westin Melbourne
View the city from above in your suite.
Situated in the heart of the city on bustling Collins Street, The Westin Melbourne is a supremely convenient base. With the hotel as a base, explore the entire CBD – including Federation Square and Melbourne’s shopping, dining, theatre and sporting precincts – on foot.
Despite its central location, the hotel is something of an oasis. It has a serene ambience and elegantly understated design that provides respite at the end of a busy day. Think timeless interiors with warm timbers and neutral tones, and spacious rooms with signature Heavenly® beds and sumptuous linens. You’ll also indulge in impeccable service and amenities like fitness and wellness centres and an indoor pool. Selected rooms have sweeping city views.
Where to eat and drink
1. Allegro
Allegro is refined yet welcoming, pairing seasonal Australian produce and international flavours, finished with finesse. The à la carte, set and pre-theatre menus change seasonally. In spring and summer, expect a lively and creative line-up of dishes. You can also partake in a playful and limited-edition High Cheese offering that’s well worth trying if you’re a lover of blues and bries.
The restaurant happens to be located right inside The Westin Melbourne. It’s an ideal spot if you’re staying at the hotel and need somewhere to dine or drink before hitting the town.
2. Lobby Lounge
Step into the Lobby Lounge.
Whether you’re after a quick bite before exploring the city, a leisurely lunch or dinner, or a post-theatre nightcap, head to The Westin Melbourne’s elegant Lobby Lounge .
The menu features everything from moreish snacks, small bites and share plates to hearty all-day meals and desserts. The accompanying drinks list is a treasure trove of varietals, with a notable leaning towards Victorian drops and an excellent selection of spirits.
For a truly indulgent experience, book yourself in for the signature high tea . You’ll savour three tiers of beautifully crafted sweet and savoury treats, specialty tea and coffee, and the option for a sneaky glass of bubbly.
3. Other places to dine
There’s no shortage of tasty dining options, in and nearby The Westin Melbourne. (Credit: Visit Vic)
Dotted around the city are some of Melbourne’s most acclaimed dining destinations. Supernormal is a local institution. Feast on inventive Pan-Asian dishes made with fresh ingredients, paired with a Japanese whisky or sake from the extensive drinks list. At Gimlet , the surroundings are utterly romantic, the service impeccable and the food outstanding. Expect sustainably sourced meats, seafood and produce finished with European flavours and technique.
Apollo Inn – the sister venue to Gimlet and Supernormal – does punchy snacks, share plates and incredible drinks. Try the signature Picon Biere, a refined take on a shandy.
Dukes Coffee Roasters at Ross House is a great place to start your day, serving up organic and sustainable brews made with precision.
While you’re in the city, take a wander down Hosier and AC/DC Lanes. Beyond the famed street art along both, you’ll find a cluster of must-try eateries and bars, including MoVida, Pastuso, Bar Bambi and Tres a Cinco.
Things to do
1. Take a run through Melbourne’s green spaces
Run or walk along the Yarra River. (Credit: Visit Vic)
Melbourne’s outdoors look their very best in spring and summer. The parks and gardens come alive with colourful blooms, the trees in and around the CBD regain their verdant canopy, and the Yarra River sparkles in the sun.
A run or walk in nearby green spaces, like Carlton Gardens, Fitzroy Gardens and the Royal Botanic Gardens, lets you soak up the scenery. The Westin Melbourne also provides curated running routes through surrounding gardens and along the Yarra. Workout gear and Bala weights can be borrowed from the hotel if you forget to pack your own.
If you’ve got an afternoon to spare, venture over the Yarra to the National Gallery of Victoria . The iconic and historic institution houses both a vast permanent collection and an exciting roster of rotating exhibitions.
3. Catch some live music
Dive into Melbourne’s live music scene. (Credit: Visit Vic)
Melbourne’s live music scene reignites when spring hits. In and around the CBD are several beloved live music venues that showcase everything from jazz to rock to electronic.
Visit intimate venues like Bird’s Basement , Wax Music Lounge and Cherry Bar , or larger ones, such as The Toff , Forum and Palais Theatre , for major acts. Plenty of bars, restaurants and clubs host regular gigs, too, including The Westin Melbourne’s Lobby Lounge. Every Saturday from 12-3pm, enjoy live strings alongside your lunch or afternoon tea.
4. Soak up the atmosphere at the MCG
Book tickets for a big sports bash. (Credit: Visit Vic)
The Melbourne Cricket Ground welcomes its namesake sport in the warmer months. Watch One-Day Internationals, T20 Internationals, Big Bash League and Sheffield Shield matches throughout the season, or settle in for the multi-day Boxing Day Test.
Spring and summer are also when the MCG holds big events and concerts. Surrounded by the roar and energy of the venue’s legendary crowds, there are few places better than this to see a live gig.
5. Experience the magic of the Regent Theatre
Soak in Regent Theatre’s architecture. (Credit: Visit Vic)
Standing proud for nearly 100 years, the Regent Theatre is a stunning venue: its grand exterior opens to a gorgeously ornate interior decked out with chandeliers, plush drapes and gilded details.
Stopping by to take in its architecture is memorable enough. But if you’ve got the time, book a ticket to one of the spectacular shows that take place inside. The venue hosts a diverse line-up of live music, musicals, opera, dance, theatre and comedy. In spring and summer, the program is at its most energetic, with events to suit all tastes.