An Epic Weekend Away In The Murray Region

In the Murray region on the border of outback NSW/Victoria, community connection runs as deep as the ancient river flowing through it.

I’m taking menu suggestions from owner Katrina Myers moments after arriving at the luxurious Lost & Found Retreat in Barham, NSW, around an hour’s drive from Echuca in Victoria. The sleek and sustainable retreat was built in 2015 and it’s the perfect place to disconnect.

She’s just recommended the pork at Ivy Joyce, the hip restaurant I’m headed to later that night. “And if you like that, you’ll love this. It’s from the same place," says Katrina, stacking a packet of Bundarra bacon on top of my already overflowing arms, filled with locally sourced eggs and fresh bread. Ivy Joyce is owned by Kat’s friend, Lauren Mathers, and is known as another Murray region jewel.

the architectural exterior of Lost & Found, Barham, Murray, NSW — The architecturally designed Lost & Found Retreat is in the middle of an avocado orchard in Barham. (Image: Cindy Power Photography)

A local’s welcome

When I arrive at Ivy Joyce later that evening, I do as Katrina suggests and order the BBQ Bundarra pork denver with baked yams, broccolini and cocoa jus from the menu. Lauren, host and co-owner of Ivy Joyce with longtime friend Cynthia Burbury, talks me through the menu as the pork practically melts on my tongue. “All of our produce is local, either from us or local businesses. The pork is from Bundarra, my family’s farm. If you have any free time while you’re here, come visit! The piglets are adorable."

I feel like I’m talking to an old friend despite knowing Lauren for all of half an hour, and when she gets up to order me another piña colada, I almost feel like telling her to grab one for herself before remembering that she’s here to work.

After my visit from Katrina earlier and now my piglet-snuggling invitation from Lauren, I already feel like one of the locals. It’s a feeling that becomes familiar over my next three days in the Murray region of south east Australia, where strangers are welcomed as friends.

The Murray River

Barham (pronounced Bah-rum) sits on the banks of Australia’s longest river, the 2508-kilometre Murray, which acts as a natural border between NSW and Victoria. The Murray has long been a lifeline for the region, with communities building their lives along its shores for centuries.

The next morning – as I enjoy Katrina’s delicious delivery of local produce – I’m pondering the curvatures of the river while relaxing on the back deck, an exposed cement platform spattered with wide-leaved potted palms, wooden finishes and a solitary swinging wicker chair.

an outdoor deck with a hammock at Lost & Found, Barham, NSW — Lost & Found is a luxurious place to unwind. (Image: Cindy Power Photography)

The sun is still rubbing her eyes awake, her half-powered light casting faded gold and blue-tinged pinks across the weed meadow growing beyond the garden of clumped wild daisies. The constant dull buzz of bees intertwines with the warble of magpies as they flit through a grove of trees to my left, just a fraction of the orchard that makes up the family-run Barham Avocados farm.

“Ah, Barham Avocados. You must be staying at Katrina’s new retreat." Fifth-generation farmer Peter McDonald’s voice comes to me loud and clear through my headset. We’re exchanging pleasantries as we ascend above the vast, arid landscape and the snaking Murray River in a four-seater Cessna 172S. I’m not surprised to hear that Peter and Kat go way back.

an aerial view of the Murray River — Watch the Murray River snaking through the landscape from above.

The view from above

From my window, I can still see the effects of the unprecedented flood that devastated the region between November 2022 and February 2023. Vibrant fields of canary-yellow canola flowers spring back to life against still-broken red gums and demolished agricultural lands. Peter, who has been flying since his training as a commercial pilot in 2007, saw the destruction firsthand. He started Murray Darling Scenic Flights in 2022, after Covid-19 had hit and only a few months before the flood.

Aerial images from plane over Murray Darling Scenic Flights — You can still see the effects of the unprecedented flood that devastated the region. (Image: Murray Darling Scenic Flights)

“I started out doing one to two flights a week, but during the flood, I was flying around three times a day. People wanted to see what was happening from above."

I’m breathless as we loop around the pastel-pink Lake Tyrrell, over mallee gums and ancient wetlands, the Murray River and all its offshoots never too far from sight. But as stunning as the panoramic aerial views are, some things are better seen from the ground.

an aerial view of Lake Tyrrell — The sunset-hued waters of Lake Tyrrell look stunning from above. (Image: Murray Darling Scenic Flights)

Roots run deep at Restdown Wines

I pull up next to a dusty ute and am instantly giddy about the dog in its tray. The sun is beating down and I’m already swatting flies out of my face when I open the car door, but nothing can distract me from making friends with the kelpie. I let her sniff my hand before scratching her head, a welcomed gesture that makes her behind wiggle harder from frantic tail wags. “That’s Gracie. She’s excited to meet you."

Gracie the kelpie at Restdown Wines — Gracie the kelpie greets visitors to Restdown Wines. (Image: Angus Gaffey)

I look up to see a man in dusty jeans, boots and a well-loved hat. Don Hearn greets me with a firm handshake and the kindest smile; he co-owns the 450-hectare Restdown Wines vineyard in Thule with his wife, Jo. “We’re on Barapa Barapa Country here," Don tells us as we begin the trail around the winery’s dedicated wetland system on our guided walk. And the evidence is everywhere, from earth mounds used for cooking to scar trees dating back hundreds of years. Don and Jo work closely with the local Barapa Barapa community to ensure it stays that way.

Don with Gracie the kelpie on a tractor at Restdown Wines, Barham — Don tags Gracie the kelpie along with him around the vineyard. (Image: Destination NSW/Visit River Country)

After learning so much with Don outside, we sit down in the cellar door for a crash course on wine from Jo. Gracie lies outside, worn out from her adventure through the wetlands with us. Over sips of wild merlot produced at Restdown Wines’ vineyard, I discover, much to my amusement, that Don’s dad was pilot Peter’s first football coach.

wine tasting and cheese platter at Restdown Wines, Barham — Sample on signature merlot and cheese at Restdown Wines. (Image: Destination NSW)

My partner and I burst out in simultaneous laughter – on our way to the vineyard we’d joked that someone we had met along the way would inevitably know whoever we were about to meet. We were right, and glad about it – the veins of this community run deep, just like the river that pumps through its heart.

two people standing in the middle of a vineyard at Restdown Wines, Barham — Don and Jo Hearn managed to keep Restdown Wines a growing success.

A community like no other

While this vast, arid and plentiful land is rare and wonderful, the people here are unlike any I’ve experienced elsewhere. An interconnected web of kindness and generosity. A willingness to help out a neighbour, whether that be dropping off extra vegetables, flying friends over floods, or simply coaching a couple of football games.

As I fly out of Bendigo back to Sydney, I feel the plane subtly level out and I’m back in that Cessna, watching Peter handle it with ease over the undulating lands of country NSW/Victoria. I’m thinking about the people I’ve met and, with a shock, realise that I never made it out to snuggle Lauren’s piglets. But I quickly settle back into my seat. I know these kinds of invitations, from these kinds of people, don’t have a deadline. I can stop by when I’m next in town.

an aerial view of Mungo National Park — The contours of Mungo National Park. (Image: Destination NSW)

Whales breaching, fires crackling and slow-cooked feasts that make the cold so cosy, one might wish it lasted longer. Winter is no time to stay at home in NSW.

When the mercury drops, winter in NSW comes into its own. Beaches are quieter, the air is crisper and hearty food tastes even better when there’s ice on the windows.

Winter here isn’t for hiding away. It’s for long walks, deep baths, deeper reds and the kind of fireside lounging that feels simultaneously indulgent and entirely deserved after a day of exploring. From whale-watching up north to moodily lit bushwalks and pastry pilgrimages, we’ve mapped out your new favourite season.

a beach winter in nsw — From coastal walks to tasty delights, winter in NSW is a time to get out and about.

The Tweed

In winter, the NSW north coast has a front-row seat to one of nature’s greatest migrations. From May to November, humpbacks cruise past the Tweed coast between Antarctica and the Great Barrier Reef. Spot them from the Cabarita Beach headland or get up closer with a boat cruise.

Inland, find the Tweed Regional Gallery & Margaret Olley Art Centre , which is home to a rotating cast of big-name exhibitions (including Monet).

Later, grab a table at Bistro Livi , where the modern Spanish menu features whipped salt cod on toast and spanner crab with curry butter and spelt flatbread. Stick around to poke through the artist studios and indie boutiques of M|Arts Precinct .

visitors at Tweed Regional Gallery & Margaret Olley Art Centre — Browse the art. (Image: Destination NSW)

The next day, jump aboard the Indigenous Lunch Cruise with Tweed Escapes. You’ll cruise upriver listening to yarns from local Indigenous guides, stop at the Minjungbal Aboriginal Cultural Museum and tuck into lemon myrtle-crusted snapper.

Next, drive out to Farm & Co to pull apart some juicy smoked lamb shoulder with green olive tapenade while gazing out over the macadamia fields and avocado groves of this working farm.

End the day at Mantra on Salt Beach where you’ll enjoy beach access, a heated rock spa and a lagoon pool.

dining room at Bistro Livi — Taste modern Spanish at Bistro Livi.

Blue Mountains

The cold season is hands down the best time to visit the Blue Mountains. Temperatures are perfect – sunny enough for hikes, and crisp enough at night for snuggling up.

For a trip that equally soothes and stirs, start with a meditative meander through the national park’s eucalypts and Australian wildflowers. Brave the steepest passenger railway in the world, Scenic Railway , then hop the Skyway aerial cable car for unrivalled Three Sisters views.

Thaw out at the Japanese Bath House in South Bowenfels. Soak in steamy outdoor onsens filled with natural mineral water and mountain views, wander the rose and zen gardens, or sip hot drinks in the tea house.

group leader at Blue Mountains Stargazing — Rug up for Blue Mountains Stargazing. (Image: Destination NSW)

Afterwards, head to Ates in Blackheath, where everything revolves around a 150-year-old ironbark-fuelled oven – like the wood-roasted duck with nectarines and Szechuan spice. Or visit Tempus Katoomba , which leans experimental and sustainable, serving up dishes like braised fennel with cumin, spiced yogurt and Aleppo pepper.

Rug up and head into the night with Blue Mountains Stargazing . Sessions are guided by astrophysicists, helping you understand what you’re looking at as you look into deep space.

Wrap it all up at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains – MGallery Collection . There’s a whiskey bar in the basement (and crackling fires that make a dram taste even better), indoor and outdoor pools and a day spa. Kids will love the mirror maze and ice rink, too.

dishes laid out on table at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains — End the day with delicious meals at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains. (Image: Destination NSW)

Southern Highlands

Good food and wine by the fire, experienced between sifting through second-hand treasures, is a winter vibe in Bowral.

Start with a lap around Dirty Janes , an antique and vintage market. Recover from your shopping frenzy at Bendooley Book Barn , where floor-to-ceiling shelves and a roaring fire set the tone for an afternoon of red wine or hot coffee.

When it’s time to eat, head to Hickory’s Restaurant & Bar , Peppers Craigieburn Bowral’s onsite restaurant. Try the crispy pork belly with Granny Smith crisps and apple gel, or ocean trout with wakame, lemon gel and pickled radish.

couple looking through Dirty Janes in bowral — Wander the antiques at Dirty Janes. (Image: Destination NSW)

Another option, Onesta Cucina , does Italian with flair. For something more casual (with cocktails), Flour Bar swings between brunch and dinner, with an onsite bakery, over 400 wines and a hidden deli in the old bank vault.

Later, clamber Mt Gibraltar , where trails wind through eucalypt forest to views over Bowral and Mittagong.

Stay at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral , a century-old estate with open fires, elegant lounges and a nine-hole golf course.

woman and her dog winter in nsw at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral — Stay cosy at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral.

Penrith

Shake off winter inertia with an adrenaline boost out in Penrith. Kick things off with a kayak paddle on the Nepean River with Horizon Line, or head to Cables Wake Park , where cold-weather wetsuits take the edge off a wipeout.

For something a bit more cruisy, opt for the Nepean Belle Paddlewheeler for slow-floating views and a hot cuppa.

kayakers on the nepean river in penrith — Head out on the Nepean River. (Image: Destination NSW)

Refuel at Marcel Bar & Bistro , where reimagined European comfort food – like seafood risotto in bisque with little neck clams and Moreton Bay bugs – is king. Then check in at the Pullman Sydney Penrith , the area’s first international five-star hotel, to enjoy your well-earned rest.

Start planning your NSW winter getaway at all.com.

A weekend away in the Murray region to fill your cup

In the Murray region on the border of outback NSW/Victoria, community connection runs as deep as the ancient river flowing through it.

A local’s welcome

The Murray River

The view from above

Roots run deep at Restdown Wines

A community like no other

Ancient wonders and moon-like lands: discover Mungo National Park at sunset

This lunar-like national park is hiding in plain sight

Sink a cold one at the top Broken Hill pubs and clubs

13 unique things to do in Broken Hill

No time to hibernate: experience the best of winter in NSW

Whales breaching, fires crackling and slow-cooked feasts that make the cold so cosy, one might wish it lasted longer. Winter is no time to stay at home in NSW.

The Tweed

Blue Mountains

Southern Highlands

Penrith