An Epic Weekend Away In The Murray Region

In the Murray region on the border of outback NSW/Victoria, community connection runs as deep as the ancient river flowing through it.

I’m taking menu suggestions from owner Katrina Myers moments after arriving at the luxurious Lost & Found Retreat in Barham, NSW, around an hour’s drive from Echuca in Victoria. The sleek and sustainable retreat was built in 2015 and it’s the perfect place to disconnect.

She’s just recommended the pork at Ivy Joyce, the hip restaurant I’m headed to later that night. “And if you like that, you’ll love this. It’s from the same place," says Katrina, stacking a packet of Bundarra bacon on top of my already overflowing arms, filled with locally sourced eggs and fresh bread. Ivy Joyce is owned by Kat’s friend, Lauren Mathers, and is known as another Murray region jewel.

the architectural exterior of Lost & Found, Barham, Murray, NSW — The architecturally designed Lost & Found Retreat is in the middle of an avocado orchard in Barham. (Image: Cindy Power Photography)

A local’s welcome

When I arrive at Ivy Joyce later that evening, I do as Katrina suggests and order the BBQ Bundarra pork denver with baked yams, broccolini and cocoa jus from the menu. Lauren, host and co-owner of Ivy Joyce with longtime friend Cynthia Burbury, talks me through the menu as the pork practically melts on my tongue. “All of our produce is local, either from us or local businesses. The pork is from Bundarra, my family’s farm. If you have any free time while you’re here, come visit! The piglets are adorable."

I feel like I’m talking to an old friend despite knowing Lauren for all of half an hour, and when she gets up to order me another piña colada, I almost feel like telling her to grab one for herself before remembering that she’s here to work.

After my visit from Katrina earlier and now my piglet-snuggling invitation from Lauren, I already feel like one of the locals. It’s a feeling that becomes familiar over my next three days in the Murray region of south east Australia, where strangers are welcomed as friends.

The Murray River

Barham (pronounced Bah-rum) sits on the banks of Australia’s longest river, the 2508-kilometre Murray, which acts as a natural border between NSW and Victoria. The Murray has long been a lifeline for the region, with communities building their lives along its shores for centuries.

The next morning – as I enjoy Katrina’s delicious delivery of local produce – I’m pondering the curvatures of the river while relaxing on the back deck, an exposed cement platform spattered with wide-leaved potted palms, wooden finishes and a solitary swinging wicker chair.

an outdoor deck with a hammock at Lost & Found, Barham, NSW — Lost & Found is a luxurious place to unwind. (Image: Cindy Power Photography)

The sun is still rubbing her eyes awake, her half-powered light casting faded gold and blue-tinged pinks across the weed meadow growing beyond the garden of clumped wild daisies. The constant dull buzz of bees intertwines with the warble of magpies as they flit through a grove of trees to my left, just a fraction of the orchard that makes up the family-run Barham Avocados farm.

“Ah, Barham Avocados. You must be staying at Katrina’s new retreat." Fifth-generation farmer Peter McDonald’s voice comes to me loud and clear through my headset. We’re exchanging pleasantries as we ascend above the vast, arid landscape and the snaking Murray River in a four-seater Cessna 172S. I’m not surprised to hear that Peter and Kat go way back.

an aerial view of the Murray River — Watch the Murray River snaking through the landscape from above.

The view from above

From my window, I can still see the effects of the unprecedented flood that devastated the region between November 2022 and February 2023. Vibrant fields of canary-yellow canola flowers spring back to life against still-broken red gums and demolished agricultural lands. Peter, who has been flying since his training as a commercial pilot in 2007, saw the destruction firsthand. He started Murray Darling Scenic Flights in 2022, after Covid-19 had hit and only a few months before the flood.

Aerial images from plane over Murray Darling Scenic Flights — You can still see the effects of the unprecedented flood that devastated the region. (Image: Murray Darling Scenic Flights)

“I started out doing one to two flights a week, but during the flood, I was flying around three times a day. People wanted to see what was happening from above."

I’m breathless as we loop around the pastel-pink Lake Tyrrell, over mallee gums and ancient wetlands, the Murray River and all its offshoots never too far from sight. But as stunning as the panoramic aerial views are, some things are better seen from the ground.

an aerial view of Lake Tyrrell — The sunset-hued waters of Lake Tyrrell look stunning from above. (Image: Murray Darling Scenic Flights)

Roots run deep at Restdown Wines

I pull up next to a dusty ute and am instantly giddy about the dog in its tray. The sun is beating down and I’m already swatting flies out of my face when I open the car door, but nothing can distract me from making friends with the kelpie. I let her sniff my hand before scratching her head, a welcomed gesture that makes her behind wiggle harder from frantic tail wags. “That’s Gracie. She’s excited to meet you."

Gracie the kelpie at Restdown Wines — Gracie the kelpie greets visitors to Restdown Wines. (Image: Angus Gaffey)

I look up to see a man in dusty jeans, boots and a well-loved hat. Don Hearn greets me with a firm handshake and the kindest smile; he co-owns the 450-hectare Restdown Wines vineyard in Thule with his wife, Jo. “We’re on Barapa Barapa Country here," Don tells us as we begin the trail around the winery’s dedicated wetland system on our guided walk. And the evidence is everywhere, from earth mounds used for cooking to scar trees dating back hundreds of years. Don and Jo work closely with the local Barapa Barapa community to ensure it stays that way.

Don with Gracie the kelpie on a tractor at Restdown Wines, Barham — Don tags Gracie the kelpie along with him around the vineyard. (Image: Destination NSW/Visit River Country)

After learning so much with Don outside, we sit down in the cellar door for a crash course on wine from Jo. Gracie lies outside, worn out from her adventure through the wetlands with us. Over sips of wild merlot produced at Restdown Wines’ vineyard, I discover, much to my amusement, that Don’s dad was pilot Peter’s first football coach.

wine tasting and cheese platter at Restdown Wines, Barham — Sample on signature merlot and cheese at Restdown Wines. (Image: Destination NSW)

My partner and I burst out in simultaneous laughter – on our way to the vineyard we’d joked that someone we had met along the way would inevitably know whoever we were about to meet. We were right, and glad about it – the veins of this community run deep, just like the river that pumps through its heart.

two people standing in the middle of a vineyard at Restdown Wines, Barham — Don and Jo Hearn managed to keep Restdown Wines a growing success.

A community like no other

While this vast, arid and plentiful land is rare and wonderful, the people here are unlike any I’ve experienced elsewhere. An interconnected web of kindness and generosity. A willingness to help out a neighbour, whether that be dropping off extra vegetables, flying friends over floods, or simply coaching a couple of football games.

As I fly out of Bendigo back to Sydney, I feel the plane subtly level out and I’m back in that Cessna, watching Peter handle it with ease over the undulating lands of country NSW/Victoria. I’m thinking about the people I’ve met and, with a shock, realise that I never made it out to snuggle Lauren’s piglets. But I quickly settle back into my seat. I know these kinds of invitations, from these kinds of people, don’t have a deadline. I can stop by when I’m next in town.

an aerial view of Mungo National Park — The contours of Mungo National Park. (Image: Destination NSW)

NSW’s beach towns take on a new kind of magic when the cooler months hit.

Autumn and winter cast a whole new light on the New South Wales coastline. The sun hangs lower, the shadows stretch longer and the air is crisp and fresh. The frenetic summer crowds are gone, and the rhythm slows to the pace of a leisurely winter bush walk through still, damp quiet. From wineries pouring winter reds to the annual whale migration up the ‘humpback highway’, here’s why winter on the New South Wales coast is better.

Winter on the NSW South Coast

Winter down south means misty dawns, sipping a flat white on the beach. The thrill of a whale spotting from the headlands and evenings spent slowly savouring Shoalhaven’s wines by the fire.

Start in Kiama, where waves crash into the famous Blowholes. This natural spectacle is achieved when underground pressure and swell unite, sending sea spray soaring above the basalt cliffs. This means, due to larger waves, you’re even more likely to see an explosive display in winter.

two people standing in front of kiama blowhole — See Kiama’s blowholes in full force. (Image: Destination NSW)

Inland, the Minnamurra Rainforest Walk in Budderoo National Park is all subtropical forest and trilling lyrebird song. Make sure to walk silently along the elevated boardwalks, past winter-swelled creeks and the tangled roots of fig trees. You might just hear one of the musically talented birds mimicking your footsteps.

Feeling adventurous? Book a session at Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures for a wobbly walk through the canopy on Australia’s highest zipline.

Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures on the new south wales south coast — Walk among the tallest trees. (Image: Destination NSW)

Next, it’s time to take the speed down a notch with a drive over to the historic village of Berry. It’s been a beloved stop for generations of Sydneysiders heading south, as has the obligatory stop at its famous doughnut van for crisped, cinnamon goodness. If you’re ready for something a little more chunky, stroll right past the boutiques (okay, go on, just one quick peek) to Milkwood Bakery . Their flaky pastries and all-day breakfasts are best enjoyed under cream-coloured fringed umbrellas.

Back in Kiama, you’ll also find modern Middle Eastern share plates at Miss Arda , and next-level burgers on The Hungry Monkey ‘s extensive menu: an ode to everything pattie-shaped.

End the day at The Sebel Kiama on the harbour. The apartment-style rooms come with full cooking facilities — a welcome addition for families looking to test out the local produce they picked up along the way. Including, but not limited to, vintages from nearby Crooked River Wines .

The Sebel Kiama exterior — Sleep by the harbour.

Winter on the Mid-North Coast

A trip up north is a gentle one at this time of year. You’ll still feel that sunshine warming your shoulders, but the lower temperatures make space for rainforest walks, vineyard lunches and long coastal hikes. All without that pesky humidity.

First stop? It has to be the town of Port Macquarie. Start by marking out a stretch of the nine-kilometre coastal walk you want to tackle (or do the whole thing), which winds from Town Beach to the lighthouse along rugged headlands and quiet beaches. Hot tip: binoculars. Don’t forget them if you want to partake in some close-up sightings of dolphin pods or whales migrating up the ‘humpback highway’.

Port Macquarie Coastal Walk, winter on the New South Wales coast — Wander the Port Macquarie Coastal Walk. (Image: Destination NSW)

Swap sea for canopy at the Sea Acres Rainforest Boardwalk , one of the last remaining pockets of coastal rainforest in the state. The accessible elevated trail passes under climbing ferns and tangled strangler figs, and is alive with scarlet robins, goannas and diamond pythons – if you’re lucky, you might see one slipping through the leaf litter.

Afterwards, lunch is sorted at Cassegrain Wines , where crisp whites and elegant reds are grown using a blend of French winemaking tradition and Australian innovation. After a tasting, saddle up for a horse ride through the estate.

port macquarie koala hospital — Meet Koala Hospital inhabitants at their temporary home. (Image: Destination NSW)

The beloved Koala Hospital is rebuilding, so meet its furry patients in their temporary bushland abode at Guulabaa – Place of Koala . Here, you can see rehabilitation up close and learn how one of Australia’s most iconic animals is being carefully rewilded and protected.

Back in town, Whalebone Wharf serves up fine dining with serious views to go with your oysters. Prefer something breezier? Bills Fishhouse + Bar does everything from blue swimmer crab toast to zucchini noodles drizzled in basil and wattleseed pesto. Down by the waterfront, Little Shack slings ceviche, mushroom burgers and fish tacos with casual aplomb.

At the end of it all, check in to Mercure Centro Port Macquarie , right in the heart of town. From here, everything’s walkable. Just park the car, pop your keys in your pocket, and stroll down to the beach.

bed at Mercure Centro Port Macquarie — Check in to Mercure Centro Port Macquarie.

Winter on the Central Coast

On the Central Coast, expect to explore oyster farms that sit on estuaries, beaches that stretch empty for miles, and the kind of surprise sightings of whale sprays that can stop a hiker in their tracks.

The best way to settle into this slower rhythm is with the Bouddi Coastal Walk , an 8.5km trail that dips through rainforest and eroding cliffs. It’s made for unhurried walkers and long-lens photographers.

Up the coast in Terrigal, it’s prime time to spot humpbacks on the move. Join a cruise or find your own perch — Crackneck Lookout and Norah Head Lighthouse are both local favourites.

a humpback whale breaching on the central coast — Spot migrating humpback whales. (Image: Destination NSW)

Travelling with kids? It would be sacrilege not to visit the Australian Reptile Park . Here, Elvis the saltwater crocodile reigns supreme, and the venomous snake talk somehow manages to be simultaneously terrifying and fascinating.

If that isn’t enough to wear them out, zip and climb your way through Treetops Adventure Central Coast , a ropes course in the canopy of Ourimbah State Forest. Afterwards, steady your nerves with a garden tasting at Firescreek Botanical Winery , where fruit- and flower-infused wines are served under the trees.

Switch earth for sea and hop on a boat tour with Broken Bay Pearl Farm . Once you’re out on the water, you’ll learn how pearls are cultivated and have a hands-on lesson in grading and shucking.

woman holding a pearl at Broken Bay Pearl Farm — Get a hands-on pearl lesson. (Image: Destination NSW)

As the day winds down, grab a seat at Yellowtail in Terrigal , which takes seasonal native produce and presents it with Asian flair. Prefer something simple? Award-winning Mount White restaurant Saddles is a quintessential Australian dining destination. Find an impressive breakfast and lunch menu, dedicated to country-style cooking and seasonal produce.

Stay the night at Pullman Magenta Shores , between the ocean and the lake. There are plenty of ways to relax, with a massage at the day spa, a poolside beanbag and a round or two at the golf course.

restaurant at Pullman Magenta Shores central coast — Eat well at Pullman Magenta Shores’ restaurant. (Image: Destination NSW)

Winter in Wollongong

Wollongong does contrast pretty well. One moment you’re walking beneath an enormous Buddha, the next you’re ordering soju a few blocks from the surf. It’s a town where skydivers land on beaches, trails lead to paddocks and winter days stretch long and clear beneath the Illawarra cliffs.

If you’re coming from the north, start by crossing over the Sea Cliff Bridge. Curving dramatically out like a jutting ‘C’ out above the water means you won’t be able to resist pulling over (safely, in designated lookouts) to gaze down at the waves crashing on the cliffs below.

Just inland is the serenity of the Nan Tien Temple , the largest Buddhist temple in the Southern Hemisphere. You can trace the prayer path, explore the temple gardens and sip delectable Kam Quat Tea in the quiet light at the Dew Drop Inn Tea House.

monk teaching tai chi at Nan Tien Temple — Learn about Buddhist practices. (Image: Destination NSW)

Next, dust off that cowboy hat. It’s time for the Darkes Forest Riding Ranch . Take a guided canter via trail rides among peppermint gums and paddocks. If you’re happier to look at animals than ride them, Symbio Wildlife Park has red pandas dozing in trees, kangaroos that hop up to you and lessons on conservation.

The brave among you shouldn’t miss Skydive Australia – Wollongong . A free fall over the coast via tandem jumps before tumbling down to the sand is a breath-stopping thrill. Prefer to keep your feet on the ground? Check out the program at Wollongong Art Gallery , which delivers contemporary and Aboriginal exhibitions in the centre of town.

monkey at Symbio Wildlife Park — Hang out with the locals at Symbio Wildlife Park.(Image: Destination NSW)

As evening settles in, nab a table at Baby Face Kitchen . It has an ever-changing set menu, with dishes like hand-picked mud crab with white asparagus and salty brown butter, to sheep’s milk and honey ice cream. For something more casual, Dagwood Bar + Kitchen brings the fun with Korean fried chicken, sake cocktails and weekly all-you-can-eat bao buns.

Check in to Novotel Wollongong Northbeach , right by the sand. With a beachfront pool and ocean views, it’s an ideal base for whatever pace you choose.

Winter on the New South Wales coast starts with a cosy place to stay. Start planning your adventure at all.com.

A weekend away in the Murray region to fill your cup

In the Murray region on the border of outback NSW/Victoria, community connection runs as deep as the ancient river flowing through it.

A local’s welcome

The Murray River

The view from above

Roots run deep at Restdown Wines

A community like no other

Ancient wonders and moon-like lands: discover Mungo National Park at sunset

This lunar-like national park is hiding in plain sight

Sink a cold one at the top Broken Hill pubs and clubs

13 unique things to do in Broken Hill

Why winter is the best time to be on the New South Wales coast

NSW’s beach towns take on a new kind of magic when the cooler months hit.

Winter on the NSW South Coast

Winter on the Mid-North Coast

Winter on the Central Coast

Winter in Wollongong