A Magical Kosciuszko Alpine Way Road Trip

Twist and turn along the Kosciuszko Alpine Way for a journey steeped in mythology and untold adventure.

The Kosciuszko Alpine Way spectacularly snakes its way up and over the Snowy Mountains, the highest section of the Great Dividing Range, through magnificent landscapes of mountain forests mythologised by Banjo Paterson.

Steeped in intrigue and a storied history that stretches back millennia, this iconic NSW road trip is a well-trodden path. Every summer for thousands of years, Aboriginal people would cross tribal boundaries and travel the Alpine Way to the high country to meet for corroborees, trading, marriages and more, and to feast on bogong moths.

More recently, it was used as a drover’s stock route and for the literally groundbreaking Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Scheme that you’ll learn about en route. And although it’s only just over 100 kilometres in length, squiggling between Jindabyne and Khancoban near the Victorian border, the Alpine Way is a route to be savoured.

Stop off along the way to walk to Australia’s highest peak, immerse yourself in adventure, or simply sit back, inhale the fresh alpine air and sip a crisp Kosciuszko Pale Ale or snow-pure local schnapps. Our action-packed itinerary covers the Alpine Way’s very best bits.

Start at Cooma

Your journey begins at the gateway to the Snowy Mountains in the alpine town of Cooma, just over four hours by car from Sydney and 1.5 hours’ drive from Canberra. It’s an ideal spot to launch yourself headfirst into the adventure of the region and learn about its monumental heritage.

Kick off your Alpine Way road trip at the Snowy Hydro Discovery Centre – with its models, interactive exhibits and historical photographs – to learn the story of a modern engineering wonder: the Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Scheme.

a kid exploring an interactive exhibit at Snowy Hydro Discovery Centre — Kids will enjoy the interactive art and science installations. (Image: Destination NSW)

One of the most complex integrated water and hydro-electric power systems in the world, designed to divert water from the Snowy River westwards beneath the Great Dividing Range to drought-proof parts of NSW and Victoria, the scheme plays out in real-time from Jindabyne to Khancoban.

an exhibit inside Snowy Hydro Discovery Centre and Cafe, Cooma — Touring Snowy Hydro Discovery Centre is a truly immersive experience. (Image: Destination NSW)

For a fresh start in the morning, kip overnight at boutique Nebula Motel , a cosy hosted stay on one of Cooma’s historic streets or several campgrounds.

And if you’re visiting on the third Sunday of the month, drop into Centennial Park, right off the main road, where you’ll find the monthly Cooma Rotary Markets stocked with local artisan products and food stalls.

Cooma to Jindabyne

Distance: 62 kilometres
Travel time: About 45 minutes

Head west from Cooma along Kosciuszko Road until you reach Jindabyne. The moment you crest the hill just outside of town and see stunning Lake Jindabyne pool out before you is the first of many ‘wow’ moments you’ll experience along the Alpine Way.

Lake Jindabyne is stunning from every angle. (Image: Destination NSW)

This glassy expanse forms part of a major dam created in the mid-1960s as part of the Snowy Mountains Scheme, drowning old Jindabyne in the process. Today the town sits scenically around the lake’s foreshore and, with its crisp mountain air, serves up outdoor adventure and indulgence in equal measure.

sunset views over Lake Jindabyne in the Snowy Mountains. — Fiery sunset hues unfurl over Lake Jindabyne. (Image: Destination NSW)

Join fellow adventurers fuelling up for the day at the buzzing Birchwood Cafe , where nourishing breakfasts include avo toast stacked with feta, tomato salsa, pickled onion, radish, pomegranate and peanut dukkah, dippy eggs with fried zucchini soldiers and a vegan brekkie wrap of pulled marinated jackfruit, tofu scramble, pickled zucchini, spinach, vegan mayo and mustard.

a family biking along Lake Jindabyne, Snowy Mountains — Stroll around Lake Jindabyne on two wheels.

Then hire a bike from Sacred Ride and cycle scenic local trails or spend the morning climbing and abseiling the ‘Jindy’ Rock at Lake Jindabyne with boutique adventure-tour company K7 Adventures before settling in for a well-earned drink and a classic pub meal overlooking the lake at the Banjo Paterson Inn . And don’t forget to stop in at Wildbrumby Schnapps’ Distillery & Cafe to sample their quality takes on the sweet stuff.

the exterior of Wildbrumby Schnapps’ Distillery & Cafe, SNowy Mountains — Make a pitstop at Wildbrumby Schnapps’ Distillery & Cafe.

Jindabyne to Thredbo in Kosciuszko National Park

Distance: 21 kilometres
Travel time: 20 minutes

Before hitting the Alpine Way proper, enjoy a quintessential Jindabyne experience with a stay at one of its superlative accommodation offerings such as Lake Crackenback Resort & Spa, west of town in the Thredbo Valley.

kayaking along Lake Crackenback at sunset — Lake Crackenback Resort & Spa is perched on the lake.

It boasts two excellent onsite eateries, Cuisine Restaurant & Bar and Alpine Larder, as well as a day spa and all manner of outdoor activities including mountain bike and walking trails, Segway tours and guided fly-fishing tours. The 60-hectare alpine oasis is peppered with lake views and mountain chalets and makes for the ultimate retreat for a night or two.

a rustic bedroom at Tinkersfield Hut — Check into a charming rustic hut at Tinkersfield.

Alternatively, check into nearby Tinkersfield , a more intimate affair secluded in the Crackenback Valley with a curated choice of rustic-chic, high-country hideaways – think antique timber, clawfoot bathtubs and open fireplaces – including the one-bedroom Field Huts and two-bedroom Barnhouse and Post Office.

a woman walking along Ram Ranges Head, Kosciuszko National Park — Walk along massive rocks at Ram Ranges Head in Kosciuszko National Park. (Image: Don Fuchs; Destination NSW)

Back on the road and you’re on the Alpine Way, cruising into Kosciuszko National Park with its pine-clad ridges as immortalised in Banjo Paterson’s iconic poem The Man from Snowy River.

frost over the vegetation along the Mount Kosciuszko Summit walk — Find frost-covered vegetation along the Mount Kosciuszko Summit walk. (Image: Destination NSW)

Keep a look out for a diverse range of farm animals and wildlife along both sides of the road. Upon our last visit, we spotted emus, cows, alpacas, horses, kangaroos, wombats and deer on the one single drive. Incredible.

a scenic road trip along Alpine Way, Thredbo in the Snowy Mountains — Journey through the Snowy Mountains. (Image: Alexandra Adoncello; Destination NSW)

A classic winter destination that’s home to the ski fields of Thredbo, Perisher and Charlotte’s Pass, as well as Australia’s highest mountain, Kosciuszko reveals a whole different side in the warmer months.

skiers riding the chair lifts at Charlotte Pass Ski Resort in the Snowy Mountains — Lift off from the snowy grounds at Charlotte Pass Ski Resort. (Image: Destination NSW)

And the ultimate way to experience it is via the Kosciuszko Chairlift. Lifting off from Thredbo Valley Terminal, this thrilling joyride sweeps up the mountain for 560 vertical metres, offering breathtaking views of the national park and a gateway to Thredbo’s alpine hiking trails. But before you get exploring, hop off and treat yourself to lunch with a view at Eagles Nest, Australia’s highest restaurant. The menu is always evolving but its pizzas remain consistently delicious.

friends enjoying their lunch at Eagles Nest — Enjoy lunch with a view at Eagles Nest.

Day walks include a trail to the summit of Mount Kosciuszko, the highest peak in the country. Breathing fresh alpine air, you’ll pass granite outcrops and alpine meadows coloured with wildflowers come summer, until you’re 2228 metres above sea level with 360-degree views of the Snowy Mountains – and a true sense of wonder at being at the top of Australia.

a woman enjoying the scenic views across Kosciuszko National Park — Bask in the cold mountain air at Kosciuszko National Park. (Image: Destination NSW)

Thredbo to Khancoban

Distance: 77 kilometres
Travel time: 1 hour and 20 minutes

The most stunning stretch of the Alpine Way twists and turns soon after you leave Thredbo. Roll down the window to let in the unique scent of the Aussie Alps – pine trees mingled with eucalypts – as you descend the hairpin mountain road that looks, on a map, like it’s been drawn by a polygraph.

vehicles parked on Tom Groggin campground — Pull up your caravan at Tom Groggin campground. (Image: Murray Vanderveer/DPE)

You’ll practically kiss the Victorian border at Tom Groggin campground before taking a sharp turn north towards Khancoban and the end of the Alpine Way. Make it last by including a few scenic pit stops and bushwalks along the way.

Halfway along this stretch you’ll find Geehi Flats, a secluded picnic and camping spot located on the sparkling Swampy Plains River.

a man enjoying a day of fly fishing in Swampy Plains River, Kosciuszko National Park — Fly fishing is common along the Swampy Plains River. (Image: Don Fuchs; Destination NSW)

Simply stretch your legs and take a peek at the first of three historic alpine huts in the area, or head off on the six-kilometre Geehi huts walking track, which takes in two more plus river crossings and more magnificent Snowy Mountains views.

Geehi Hut at Geehi Flats campground — Camp on Geehi Flats for a secluded spot alongside the river. (Image: Murray Vanderveer/DPE)

You can also opt to pitch a tent for the night on the river’s grassy banks for maximum tranquillity (bookings essential via the NPWS website ).

a man biking around the scenic landscape at Geehi Flats — Go biking around the scenic landscape at Geehi Flats. (Image: Murray Vanderveer/DPE)

Fifteen minutes further up the road you’ll find Scammell’s lookout, 1000 metres above sea level and offering spectacular views back the way you’ve come from. From here you can trace the contours of the rugged western fall of the Snowy Mountains’ Main Range.

snow covered gum trees at Blue Cow ski resort, Perisher — Perisher has good skiable areas like Thredbo. (Image: Destination NSW)

Enjoy the diversity and rugged beauty that Kosciuszko has to offer near Thredbo and Perisher along the Illawong walk , Pallaibo walking track and Waterfall walking track , which are great for nature-spotting sessions.

the Thredbo Valley Track signage, Kosciuszko National Park — Take the mountain bike route to Thredbo Valley Track. (Image: Lucy Morrell/DPE)

One of the best ways to have an adventure in the Snowies is to hire a mountain bike or e-bike (or take your own) and hit the Thredbo Valley Track . It’s a 35-kilometre trail back to Jindabyne which winds through stunning alpine terrain with scenic suspension bridges and spectacular sections running alongside the Snowy River. The track offers world-class mountain biking for all abilities, from easy beginner rides to a challenging full-day ride and is typically open from November to May, depending on the weather. Another alternative is hitting the trails at Thredbo Mountain Bike Park, to experience scenic cross-country trails and Australia’s only lift-accessible terrain.

a mountain biker crossing a suspension bridge at Thredbo Valley Track — Traverse through stunning alpine terrain with scenic suspension bridges. (Image: Elinor Sheargold/DPE)

Further along the Alpine Way however, you’ll arrive in Khancoban. Originally built to house workers on the Snowy Mountains Scheme, Khancoban sits on the western edge of Kosciuszko in the foothills of the mountains.

the controlled spillway at Khancoban Dam — Khancoban Dam has a controlled spillway that flows across the Swampy Plain River. (Image: Don Fuchs; Destination NSW)

Today the small town’s scenic pondage, which forms part of the scheme, is used recreationally for fishing, kayaking and water sports. And, part of the idyllic Snowy Valleys region, it marks the end – or perhaps just the beginning – of the legendary Alpine Way.

a scenic view of the Khancoban Pondage — The town of Khancoban is nestled in the idyllic Snowy Valleys region. (Image: Snowy Valleys Council; Matt Beaver)

Park the car and go off-piste

Three multi-day adventures to have in the Snowy Mountains:

1. Make like The Man from Snowy River and immerse yourself in the Kosciuszko wilderness on a three-to-five-day horse-riding trek with Reynella Rides . Departing from Adaminaby, about 50 kilometres from Cooma, from November through to the end of April, there’s surely no better way to travel through the Snowy Mountains and its landscape of wildflower carpets, alpine streams and open plains. The team make things easy by arranging pick-up and drop-off transfers from Cooma, too.

2. Spend five or six days paddling the Snowy River through the ancient landscape of the Byadbo Wilderness in the remote southern reaches of Kosciuszko with Alpine River Adventures . Led by an Aboriginal guide for interpretation of Country and Indigenous perspectives, the unique journeys depart from Numeralla near Cooma and take in beach camping, river gorges and chances to spot quoll, platypuses, kangaroos, emus and sea eagles in the wild. Trips run year-round, with guaranteed water levels from August to November.

an aerial view of kayakers on Snowy River, Alpine River Adventures — Go paddling on the Snowy River with Alpine River Adventures. (Image: Destination NSW)

3. Take on Australia’s 10 highest peaks with boutique tour operator K7 Adventures . Join a hiking tour through the high country from November to May with guide and landscape photographer Mike Edmondson. It’s an unforgettable opportunity for experienced walkers with good fitness levels and offers 360-degree views of some of the most extraordinary sights in the country.

a man skiing in Thredbo, Snowy Mountains — Take in remarkable sights on top of the Snowy Mountains. (Image: Destination NSW)

Written by Imogen Eveson and updated by Kristie Lau-Adams.

Whales breaching, fires crackling and slow-cooked feasts that make the cold so cosy, one might wish it lasted longer. Winter is no time to stay at home in NSW.

When the mercury drops, winter in NSW comes into its own. Beaches are quieter, the air is crisper and hearty food tastes even better when there’s ice on the windows.

Winter here isn’t for hiding away. It’s for long walks, deep baths, deeper reds and the kind of fireside lounging that feels simultaneously indulgent and entirely deserved after a day of exploring. From whale-watching up north to moodily lit bushwalks and pastry pilgrimages, we’ve mapped out your new favourite season.

a beach winter in nsw — From coastal walks to tasty delights, winter in NSW is a time to get out and about.

The Tweed

In winter, the NSW north coast has a front-row seat to one of nature’s greatest migrations. From May to November, humpbacks cruise past the Tweed coast between Antarctica and the Great Barrier Reef. Spot them from the Cabarita Beach headland or get up closer with a boat cruise.

Inland, find the Tweed Regional Gallery & Margaret Olley Art Centre , which is home to a rotating cast of big-name exhibitions (including Monet).

Later, grab a table at Bistro Livi , where the modern Spanish menu features whipped salt cod on toast and spanner crab with curry butter and spelt flatbread. Stick around to poke through the artist studios and indie boutiques of M|Arts Precinct .

visitors at Tweed Regional Gallery & Margaret Olley Art Centre — Browse the art. (Image: Destination NSW)

The next day, jump aboard the Indigenous Lunch Cruise with Tweed Escapes. You’ll cruise upriver listening to yarns from local Indigenous guides, stop at the Minjungbal Aboriginal Cultural Museum and tuck into lemon myrtle-crusted snapper.

Next, drive out to Farm & Co to pull apart some juicy smoked lamb shoulder with green olive tapenade while gazing out over the macadamia fields and avocado groves of this working farm.

End the day at Mantra on Salt Beach where you’ll enjoy beach access, a heated rock spa and a lagoon pool.

dining room at Bistro Livi — Taste modern Spanish at Bistro Livi.

Blue Mountains

The cold season is hands down the best time to visit the Blue Mountains. Temperatures are perfect – sunny enough for hikes, and crisp enough at night for snuggling up.

For a trip that equally soothes and stirs, start with a meditative meander through the national park’s eucalypts and Australian wildflowers. Brave the steepest passenger railway in the world, Scenic Railway , then hop the Skyway aerial cable car for unrivalled Three Sisters views.

Thaw out at the Japanese Bath House in South Bowenfels. Soak in steamy outdoor onsens filled with natural mineral water and mountain views, wander the rose and zen gardens, or sip hot drinks in the tea house.

group leader at Blue Mountains Stargazing — Rug up for Blue Mountains Stargazing. (Image: Destination NSW)

Afterwards, head to Ates in Blackheath, where everything revolves around a 150-year-old ironbark-fuelled oven – like the wood-roasted duck with nectarines and Szechuan spice. Or visit Tempus Katoomba , which leans experimental and sustainable, serving up dishes like braised fennel with cumin, spiced yogurt and Aleppo pepper.

Rug up and head into the night with Blue Mountains Stargazing . Sessions are guided by astrophysicists, helping you understand what you’re looking at as you look into deep space.

Wrap it all up at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains – MGallery Collection . There’s a whiskey bar in the basement (and crackling fires that make a dram taste even better), indoor and outdoor pools and a day spa. Kids will love the mirror maze and ice rink, too.

dishes laid out on table at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains — End the day with delicious meals at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains. (Image: Destination NSW)

Southern Highlands

Good food and wine by the fire, experienced between sifting through second-hand treasures, is a winter vibe in Bowral.

Start with a lap around Dirty Janes , an antique and vintage market. Recover from your shopping frenzy at Bendooley Book Barn , where floor-to-ceiling shelves and a roaring fire set the tone for an afternoon of red wine or hot coffee.

When it’s time to eat, head to Hickory’s Restaurant & Bar , Peppers Craigieburn Bowral’s onsite restaurant. Try the crispy pork belly with Granny Smith crisps and apple gel, or ocean trout with wakame, lemon gel and pickled radish.

couple looking through Dirty Janes in bowral — Wander the antiques at Dirty Janes. (Image: Destination NSW)

Another option, Onesta Cucina , does Italian with flair. For something more casual (with cocktails), Flour Bar swings between brunch and dinner, with an onsite bakery, over 400 wines and a hidden deli in the old bank vault.

Later, clamber Mt Gibraltar , where trails wind through eucalypt forest to views over Bowral and Mittagong.

Stay at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral , a century-old estate with open fires, elegant lounges and a nine-hole golf course.

woman and her dog winter in nsw at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral — Stay cosy at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral.

Penrith

Shake off winter inertia with an adrenaline boost out in Penrith. Kick things off with a kayak paddle on the Nepean River with Horizon Line, or head to Cables Wake Park , where cold-weather wetsuits take the edge off a wipeout.

For something a bit more cruisy, opt for the Nepean Belle Paddlewheeler for slow-floating views and a hot cuppa.

kayakers on the nepean river in penrith — Head out on the Nepean River. (Image: Destination NSW)

Refuel at Marcel Bar & Bistro , where reimagined European comfort food – like seafood risotto in bisque with little neck clams and Moreton Bay bugs – is king. Then check in at the Pullman Sydney Penrith , the area’s first international five-star hotel, to enjoy your well-earned rest.

Start planning your NSW winter getaway at all.com.

A road trip itinerary along the great Kosciuszko Alpine Way

Twist and turn along the Kosciuszko Alpine Way for a journey steeped in mythology and untold adventure.

Start at Cooma

Cooma to Jindabyne

Jindabyne to Thredbo in Kosciuszko National Park

Thredbo to Khancoban

Park the car and go off-piste

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No time to hibernate: experience the best of winter in NSW

Whales breaching, fires crackling and slow-cooked feasts that make the cold so cosy, one might wish it lasted longer. Winter is no time to stay at home in NSW.

The Tweed

Blue Mountains

Southern Highlands

Penrith