Kakadu FAQs: How, where & the wet season conundrum

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Wet season or dry season? Kids or no kids? Walk or drive?  Kakadu Tours or self guided? These are just some of the most frequent Kakadu questions we have answered.

How long should I spend here?

Kakadu is about one third the size of Tasmania. Some ‘do’ Kakadu in a daytrip from Darwin; others spend two weeks here and still don’t see as much as they’d like. We reckon any length of time from three days onwards will help you feel like you’ve ‘done’ the park properly.

landscape kakadu nothern territory holdays attractions culture outback
Straight out of a painting; exquisite lilies on Yellow Water Billabong against a bruised grey sky (photo: Paul Arnold).

What’s the weather like?

Although the year can be roughly divided into two seasons, the dry (May–October) and the wet (November–April), the six seasons, used by Kakadu’s indigenous people for millennia, will give you a much better idea of what to expect and when:

 

Gudjewg: January to March, 24–34ºC: Monsoon season. Expect blue skies each morning, late afternoon thunderstorms and high humidity levels, when waterfalls thunder, greenery explodes and a third of the park becomes floodplains.

 

You can still cruise, fly and drive to many of the park’s attractions; special wet seasons cruises operate at this time of year, too.

 

Banggerreng: April, 23–34ºC: Storm season. Expect the last of ‘knock-em-down’ rains among clearing skies.

 

Landscapes remain lush, while receding waters – also known as the ‘run-off’ – cause fish to congregate in certain areas, making this a fantastic time of year to join one of Kakadu’s fishing tours.

Fishing Kakadu Nothern Territory holdays attractions culture outback
Fishing at Yellow Water River with a spectacular sunset glowing in the distance.

Yegge: May to June, 21-33ºC: Cooler but still humid season. A lovely time to visit, when storms have finished and wetlands are carpeted with water lilies (make sure you take a cruise). Cooler breezes bring morning mists and respite from humidity.

Previously flooded roads open up, offering access to different areas of the park.

 

Wurrgeng: Mid June to mid August, 17–30ºC: ‘Cold’ season. As waterways and floodplains have dried up, some wet season cruises are unavailable, but more open roads mean more access via car instead. Meanwhile magpie geese, fat and heavy from weeks of feasting, flock to billabongs, resulting in fantastic bird-watching.

Gindjala goosecamp Kakadu
The best bit is the deafening roar as the sky fills with tens of thousands of wetland birds evading a hungry crocodile, sea eagle or dingo." – Rachael Arnold, Kakadu Animal Tracks Safari

Gurrung: Late August to September, 23–37ºC: Hot dry season. Heat returns and clouds start to gather, but humidity keeps its distance. Billabongs remain crowded with birds (including those magpie geese), ensuring great birdwatching; the majority of the park remains accessible by road.

 

Gunumeleng: October to December, 24–37ºC: Pre-monsoon season. Gunumeleng can last from a few weeks to several months, with dazzling lightning shows that hint at storms to come. Almost all roads are still accessible at this time of year, but watch for early rains.

Kakadu National Park Entrance
The remote entrance to Kakadu National Park.

What kind of accommodation is available?

There are so many more choices than we have room for here: designated bush camping sites, camping grounds and caravan parks, motel-style lodges, resorts, wilderness retreats… Check out our ‘Best places to stay in Kakadu’ accommodation page for all options.

Crocodile Hotel, Kakadu
The famous Crocodile Hotel in Kakadu

Note that some camping sites require a permit and others ban alcohol.

Wildman Wilderness Lodge Kakadu accommodation
Kakadu indulgence: Wildman Wilderness Lodge

Do I really need a 4WD?

Like many other national parks, general access around Kakadu is by regular sealed roads and walking tracks, so a 4WD isn’t strictly necessary.

 

Be warned, though, that a couple of the park’s most spectacular sites, such as Jim Jim Falls, are only accessible by 4WD.

Kakadu 4WD tour
Getting amongst it on a Kakadu 4WD (photo: Lee Atkinson).

The good news is that Kakadu is a brilliant place for first-time four-wheel drivers, particularly in the dry when well-travelled tracks mean you won’t entirely be heading off into the wilderness alone. If you’re not that keen on driving, you can also take a 4WD tour.

Should I do a Kakadu tour?

Probably. To get the most out of the experience you will need some interpretation of the landscape, the flora, the fauna and most definitely the culture.

 

We have taken the guess work out with our guide to which Kakadu tours would suit you.

kakadu nothern territory holdays attractions culture outback
Enjoy a Yellow Water Cruise at sunset through the Kakadu wetlands (photo: David Hancock)

Is there mobile reception?

Not outside the main areas of Jabiru, Cooinda and the Bowali Visitors Centre – but there is wi-fi in the Jabiru town library and many hotels. Remember to tell someone where you are going each day, especially if you happen to be travelling alone (which we don’t recommend).

Is Kakadu any good with and for kids?

Warradjan Cultural Centre, Kakadu National Park
Warradjan Cultural Centre at Kakadu National Park.

Kakadu is brilliant for kids, but there are a couple of things you’ll need to keep in mind.

 

Firstly, walking paths tend to be well-cleared and sometimes boardwalked but there are usually no barriers, so a close eye will be needed for little ones near waterholes where crocs may lurk.

 

Very little legs will probably only make it to easily accessible sites like Nourlangie and Ubirr and your best bet just might involve a cruise or two. You should also check out the free cultural activities available seasonally through Bowali Visitors Centre.

Gunlom Falls Kakadu
A post-walk soak at Gunlom Falls, Kakadu (photo: Jennifer Pinkerton).

What should I pack when visiting Kakadu?

Aside from the obvious, such as hat, sunscreen, mozzie repellent and good walking shoes? Extra camera batteries. Also, if like us you’re prone to losing sunglasses and dropping brand new phones, we’d suggest picking up a waterproof disposable camera.

 

Finally, you’ll want a big, reusable water bottle – it’s recommended you drink four litres a day here, with a minimum of two litres to carry on a walk. You can refill at most managed campsites, hotels and major sights.

Kakadu Floodplains
Airboating on Kakadu floodplains

Let’s talk about crocodiles.

In the Territory, you soon learn that living with crocs is like living with stingers in, say, Cairns – have respect and awareness, and you’ll be fine.

wild walks northern territory
An estuarine (saltwater) crocodile in Kakadu. Observe these majestic creatures from a safe distance on a boat cruise down the Yellow Water wetlands.

At Kakadu, according to Parks Australia, that means you should always assume there are crocodiles in any body of water you see.

 

However, there are areas that are designated safe to swim in. As those areas can change, however, your best bet is to check with local park rangers or at a visitors’ centre, before you jump in.

swimming spot Jim Jim Falls in Kakadu
The bucket-list swimming spot: Jim Jim Falls in Kakadu National Park (photo: Sarah Mackie).

Walking Kakadu: is it suitable for old knees?

Well, yes – and no. You’ll be stoked with the accessibility of popular sites likes Nourlangie and Ubirr – they’re short, easygoing walks, with Ubirr even partially wheelchair/pram-accessible (not bad for a remote wilderness park that’s a third of the size of Tasmania).

 

Cruises, such as the Yellow Water and Guluyambi are likewise great options – road access to these boat ramps is 2WD so you can pull up, sit back and enjoy.

 

Not all sites are easy going. Hiking to the top of waterfalls such as Jim Jim Falls can be moderately challenging, thanks to the steep inclines. Check our story on the best walking in Kakadu and check out National Parks walks page for more.

Best visitors’ centres?

The Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre at Cooinda (gagudjudreaming.com) presents Aboriginal culture the way the local Aboriginal community want it displayed and you’ll find it’s engaging, challenging and fascinating.

culture australian outback walking holiday
Cultural tour at Ubirr in Kakadu National Park. NT.

Pudakul Aboriginal Cultural Tours is further afield and operating out of Adelaide River. Completely Aboriginal-owned and operated, it offers you a two-hour immersion in culture and nature including finding bush tucker and making baskets and bags as well as the art of playing the clapstick and didgeridoo. (Thursday–Monday from April to November) (pudakul.com.au).

 

The Bowali Visitor Centre in Jabiru is a pleasant, cool place with a small library and display area and a most helpful information desk. There’s even a coffee shop.

Jim Jim Falls, Kakadu
Jim Jim Falls Kakadu just after the wet (Photo: Tourism NT)

Visiting Kakadu in the Wet Season?

Honestly? We’d argue that seeing Kakadu in the Wet is almost better than in the dry.

 

This park is home to Australia’s ‘true’ wet season, where heat and humidity generate an explosion of colours and life.

 

Dramatic thunderstorms, lightning and flooding allow spear grass to grow to over two metres tall, flushing the woodlands with a silvery-green hue; magpie geese nest in the sedgelands; native rats, snakes and goannas seek refuge in the trees, and waterfalls gush with huge force. A third of the park becomes floodplains you can explore by boat.

 

The end result is one of Earth’s great marvels… even better, it’s crowd-free.

Yes, but I’m not a huge fan of spending my holidays in the rain.

Then we’ve got good news – you won’t.

 

A typical day during wet season is typical of anywhere in the tropics: mornings are lovely and clear, and then storm clouds will build until around 4pm, when warm, fat raindrops will be unleashed, fast and furious, for a good hour or two.

 

Occasionally, there might be a week or two where light rain will set in due to a tropical low sitting off the coast, but there can also be weeks at a time with no rain.

 

The main thing you’ll have to deal with is humidity. Locals plan their lives around weather reporting on the Bureau of Meteorology website (bom.gov.au) and recommend you plan your activities the same way. You can also download the BOM app from app stores.

So what is there to do in the Wet at Kakadu?

Drive through it: You can still road-trip through the park: the Arnhem and Kakadu highways remain open, as do the roads to Nourlangie, Ubirr and Cooinda, although they may occasionally close after big storms.

 

The roads to Jim Jim and Twin Falls, however, will be closed – best way to see these is on a scenic flight.

 

Old Jim Jim Road, Gunlom, Maguk and Sandy Billabong are also out of action. Many minor unsealed roads are closed; those that remain open are 4WD-only and some bush campgrounds are closed – you’ll find details at kakaduroadreport.wordpress.com .

 

Cruise the floodplains: The iconic Yellow Water cruise still operates during the Wet; if anything, we think the experience is better this time of year. Guluyambi cruise operators are also open, but they move from their dry season home on the East Alligator River to the flooded Magela Wetlands.

 

Crossing the Magela also gives you access to the normally popular Ubirr rock art site even when road access is closed – consider it your backstage pass to the art.

 

Go fishing: Generally, the ultimate time to go fishing is actually at the end of the Wet (mid-March to April), when waters start to recede and fish collect in certain areas, though there are some areas where the fishing is better towards the middle of the season. See top fishing spots.

 

Take a scenic-flight: Kakadu Air, North Australian Helicopters  and The Scenic Flight Company all offer scenic flights over the falls in the wet.

 

As you’d expect, seeing the waterfalls from above, operating at full force, is something else.

 

See rock art: Popular rock art site Nourlangie is not only accessible during the Wet but was, in the past, a home base for indigenous people during the wet months. You can also take the moderate six-kilometre walk to nearby Gubara Pools for a lovely, cooling swim.

 

That walk also includes a turn-off to lesser-known rock art site Nanguluwur – bonus! Visit Mamukala Wetlands: Mamukala is generally open year-round and is home to a bird hide, from which you can watch egrets, darters, herons and forest kingfishers undisturbed across the pandanus, paperbark tree and lily pad-strewn waters.

 

There is more to see and do than this, mind you: check out our page on Kakadu rock art.

For more information on Kakadu & things to do in the NT, visit the official Northern Territory website at northernterritory.com

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Red earth, light shows and ancient culture: discover the ultimate NT road trip

(Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Ben Savage)

    Kassia ByrnesBy Kassia Byrnes
    The Northern Territory is made for road trips, and this one hits all the highlights.

    Craggy mountain ranges, inviting waterholes, ochre soil: the landscape of the Northern Territory is asking to be explored by road and foot. There are many iconic road trips to choose from here, but none so all-encompassing than the roughly 3000 kilometres of sealed road that make up Explorer’s Way.

    Spend 14 days (or more, to really make the most of it) driving this route from Adelaide, hitting the NT near the small settlement of Kulgera before later finishing in Darwin. Along the way, you’ll find nearly all the territory’s most iconic sights.

    Discover some of the top highlights that make Explorer’s Way one of Australia’s most incredible road trips.

    1. Alice Springs

    echidna at Alice Springs Desert Park
    See the locals at Alice Springs Desert Park. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT)

    Recently hitting the big screen again with the story of The Kanagroo Sanctuary , there’s a lot to surprise you in Alice Springs.

    Three distinct desert habitats – desert rivers, sand country and woodland – are recreated over 1300 hectares at Alice Springs Desert Park . Time your visit for a presentation or a free bird show.

    Later, turn your attention to the skies above, taking a dive into local astronomy at Earth Sanctuary . You’ll find a range of experiences, from a 90-minute toe-dip into the stars through to an overnight adventure.

    Alice Springs packs a surprising punch with its tasty dining options, including pub grub and unique brews at Alice Springs Brewing Co , tapas and pizza at Epilogue Lounge and tasty cafe fare at the quirky Page 27 .

    2. Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park

    woman standing at Ormiston Gorge
    Dive into Ormiston Gorge. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Dom and Jesso)

    Beginning 15 minutes from Alice Springs and stretching across 161 kilometres, Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park is packed with striking ancient landscapes and inviting water holes.

    Visit Standley Chasm – traditionally known as Angkerle Atwatye, meaning ‘Gap of Water’ – to take in its bold red and orange hues, and to observe the diverse bird species, lizards and wallabies that call it home.

    Cool off in one of several picturesque natural swimming holes, like Ellery Creek Big Hole and Ormiston Gorge.

    3. Uluru & Kata Tjuta

    three women looking at Kata Tjuta at sunset
    Explore Kata Tjuta. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT)

    Visiting the Cultural Heart of Australia is something everybody should experience. There are so many side trips in the Red Centre you could easily spend a week here, but to get the most out of a short time, park the car then get out on foot.

    Take the 10-kilometre Base Walk around the entirety of Uluru or join a free, ranger-guided Mala Walk along part of the base, learning about Tjukurpa (creation stories) and geology as you go.

    For a change of pace, wait until nightfall and wander through the iconic Field of Light display by celebrated artist Bruce Munro, or see the Wintjiri Wiru lightshow that shares the ancient Mala story using drones, lasers and projections.

    4. Tennant Creek

    pson looking at Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles) northern territory
    See the ancient granite boulders of Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles). (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Dom And Jesso)

    Tennant Creek was Australia’s third-largest gold mining town in the 1930s, and visitors can discover that history at Battery Hill Mining Centre – and even try their own hand at gold fossicking.

    For a completely different side of history, pop into Nyinkka Nyunyu Art & Culture Centre , which preserves and shares Warumungu culture through art, performance, a museum and more.

    Just outside town, find the ancient granite boulders of Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles). A site integral to important stories held by the Warumungu, Kaytetye, Warlpiri and Alyawarra peoples, the boulders appear to almost have dropped out of the sky and seemingly continue to defy gravity.

    5. Mataranka

    aerial of people swimming in bitter springs northern territory
    Dive into Bitter Springs. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Ben Savage)

    A town made famous by the novel We of the Never Never by Jeannie Gunn (and a movie of the same name), Mataranka is also known for its sandy-bottomed thermal pool, Bitter Springs , within Elsey National Park. Follow a 500-metre loop track around these spring-fed pools that stay a toasty 34°C year-round, before choosing your favourite spot to dive into. Enjoy the local birdlife while you relax.

    Elsewhere in the park, find historical sites, several scenic walks and Roper River, which is perfect for boating and fishing.

    6. Nitmiluk National Park

    Nabilil Dreaming Sunset Dinner Cruise
    Join a sunset cruise with Nabilil Dreaming. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Lachlan Gardiner)

    Nitmiluk National Park is sandstone country, with 13 stunning gorges and plenty of waterfalls waiting to be explored.

    One of the most beautiful spots can be found along the 62-kilometre Jatbula Trail, a five-to-six day bushwalk that follows an ancient Jawoyn songline from Nitmiluk Gorge to Leliyn (Edith Falls). Numbers are restricted and book out quickly, so be sure to plan well ahead. Not up for the hike? Drive right up to the falls and enjoy a dip without the challenge.

    Elsewhere, explore Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge. Paddle a kayak through the river running through the canyon, or save your energy on a Nabilil Dreaming Sunset Dinner Cruise , discovering the stories and ways of the Jawoyn people while enjoying a candlelit dinner as the cliffs around you shift colour and glow with the changing daylight.

    Continue your cultural journey at local art centres like Godinymayin Yijard Rivers Art & Culture Centre or Mimi Aboriginal Art & Craft .

    7. Litchfield National Park

    cathedral termite mounds in Litchfield national park
    Be awed by giant cathedral termite mounds. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ As We Wander)

    Just over an hour’s drive from Darwin lies the beautiful Litchfield National Park. It’s famous for stunning waterfalls and swimming holes, including Buley Rockhole, Wangi Falls, Florence Falls and Tjaynera Falls.

    Here you’ll also find hundreds of giant – and magnetic – cathedral termite mounds that are truly a sight to see. Ageing up to 100 years old, you won’t find mounds like these outside the northern parts of Australia. Stroll along the accessible boardwalk to see them up close.

    8. Darwin

    darwin street art
    Darwin art is streets ahead. (Credit: Tourism & Events NT/ Mark Fitzpatrick)

    This list wouldn’t be complete without the territory’s capital city: Darwin. Situate yourself upon arrival with a stroll through the main streets, admiring the many art murals by local, interstate and international artists. They’re all remnants of the annual Darwin Street Art Festival , one of Australia’s longest running street art festivals.

    Stop to recharge along Darwin’s Waterfront Precinct , an area of delectable restaurants, public swimming pools and free events. And, of course, it would be wrong to leave the city without enjoying a bowl of laksa at Mindil Beach Sunset Market as the sun goes down.

    Learn more and start planning your Explorer’s Way road trip at northernterritory.com/drive.