The ultimate Kakadu to Arnhem Land itinerary

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Delve deep into one of Australia’s most fascinating and remote regions on this epic road trip through Kakadu and Arnhem Land.  

Day one: Darwin to Jabiru

 It’s Australia’s northernmost capital city and has a reputation for a heady mix of Asian cuisine, outdoor markets and movies, and fascinating war history – quite simply, Darwin is a holiday in itself. But it’s also the gateway to the country’s largest national park, UNESCO World Heritage-listed Kakadu and Arnhem Land, probably Australia’s most undiscovered and underrated regions.

Leave the city sights for another trip, hire a 4WD from the airport and hit Arnhem Highway for Jabiru, 253 kilometres away. Call into Bowali Visitor Centre to get a lay of the land before checking into Mercure Kakadu Crocodile Hotel (in the shape of a croc). Enjoy a well-deserved float in the pool after a big travel day.

Mercure Crocodile Hotel in Kakadu
The famous Mercure Crocodile Hotel in Kakadu

Day two: Ubirr

Rise early and lather up with sunscreen to explore Ubirr , an Aboriginal rock-art site that will impress the littlest of travellers. From the main car park, there’s an easy one-kilometre walking loop that leads visitors past galleries of ancient illustrations. If you’re travelling with kids, tell them to keep an eye out for the thylacine. Climb the steps to a natural lookout over Nadab floodplain and Arnhem Land; views run to the horizon over a lime landscape and you’d be hard-pressed not to be moved by the swathes of empty space. For a more in-depth experience, join a ranger-guided tour.

 

You should also check out Cahills Crossing, a popular spot for croc-watching at East Alligator River – be sure to stay clear of the water. Before returning to the hotel, swing past Foodland grocery store in Jabiru to stock up on basic snacks, such as trail mix and energy-boosting muesli bars.

Ancient rock drawings at Ubirr, Kakadu
Ancient rock drawings at Ubirr, Kakadu National Park.

Day three: Maguk Waterfall

Kakadu is famous for its waterfalls, which thunder during the wet (November to April) and mollify in the dry (May to October). The best time to see them is in winter, when you can hike to their base and enjoy refreshing dips. Today, check out of your Jabiru accommodation and hit the 4WD-only road to Maguk Waterfall , which leads to the trail head of a gentle two-kilometre (return) walk through monsoon forest.

 

The relatively easy access to the falls makes it one of the most popular Kakadu attractions, so set out early to enjoy a swim in the freshwater plunge pool before midday crowds arrive. Then it’s time to kick up orange dust on another 4WD-only road, this time to Gunlom campground , ahead of tomorrow’s adventure.

Girl relaxing at Barramundi Gorge (Maguk)
One of Kakadu’s lesser-known attractions, Maguk is a pristine natural waterfall and plunge pool at the base of steep gorge walls.

Day four: Gunlom Falls

The eerily beautiful pools atop Gunlom Falls are a highlight on any Kakadu itinerary. To reach the top, you’ll need to tackle a steep climb for about 30 minutes, so rise with the sun while the air is cool and the track empty. Once there, you’ll discover tiered pools of fresh, ink-like water that are oh-so-inviting. Snap a photo at the edge of the natural infinity pool for the ’gram before bobbing about in a BYO inflatable ring.

 

Back at the base of the escarpment, follow a path around to a large pool where you can enjoy another swim before returning to your campsite for a picnic lunch. In the afternoon, make your way to Cooinda Campground (there’s motel facilities too), about two hours’ drive away.

Gunlom Falls infinity pool
The natural infinity pool of Gunlom Falls with Kakadu stretching out before it.

Day five: Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) and Yellow Water

 If you loved the rock art of Ubirr, you’ll also want to make time to visit Burrungkuy (Nourlangie ). The art here depicts the life of the Indigenous Bininj people and there are ranger-guided walks during the dry season. Another not-to-miss attraction is Ngurrungurrudjba (Yellow Water). If you visit in the dry, you can explore the floodplain via a 2.6-kilometre (return) walk to a boardwalk and viewing platform, where you’ll be able to spot saltwater crocodiles.

 

If you’d rather be on the water, join a Yellow Water Cruises’ sunset tour of Yellow Water Billabong and South Alligator River. The Indigenous-owned and operated trips give you plenty of time to admire Kakadu’s wildlife, including black-necked storks and tree snakes.

Days six to nine: East Arnhem Land

Take your adventure up a notch by heading into East Arnhem Land, one of the last truly remote areas of Australia. The best way to explore the Indigenous region is by joining a tour, such as a chartered fishing trip or cultural excursion, however it’s wise to give yourself a day to reach your accommodation (simple lodges, motels and campgrounds) and settle into Arnhem life. To enter the region, a permit from Northern Land Council is required; if you have a guide, ask if they can arrange one.

 

If you’d rather join a tour from Kakadu, our pick is Venture North Safaris’ 4-day Arnhem Land and Cobourg Peninsula Tour . It’s a round-trip from Jabiru and takes in popular Injalak Arts centre, the ruins of Victoria Settlement (a former British military outpost), turtle nesting areas and Cobourg wetlands. There are also , as well as fly-in/fly-out fishing charters if you’re keen to bag a barra.

 

If you have plenty of time or yearn to learn more, visit Arnhem Land during the annual Garma Festival, a celebration of Indigenous culture (the next one will be in July-August 2021). The festival is held at Gulkula, 30 minutes’ drive from Nhulunbuy; you’ll need prior approval to attend.

Dancing Garma Festival
Garma Festival, NT: Indigenous culture at is most vibrant and lively.

Day 10: West Arnhem

If it’s the Top End’s rock art that captivates you, head into West Arnhem for a close-up look at the galleries at Mt Borradaile, a sacred Aboriginal site. Accessible in both the wet and dry seasons, there is a huge collection of art here, including a depiction of the rainbow serpent. Davidson’s Arnhemland Safaris runs tours, along with a few other options, such as billabong sunset cruises and birdwatching. Overnight at the Davidson’s eco lodge.

Davidsons Eco Lodge
Stay overnight at the Davidson’s eco lodge.

Days 11 and 12: Bremer Island

Ditch the car and catch a 15-minute scenic flight from Gove Airport to Bremer Island for two nights at Banubanu Beach Retreat . The eco-friendly property runs primarily on solar power and offers travellers a back-to-basics hideaway, perfect for unwinding after the adventures of Kakadu. Fill your days chilling in your beachfront glamping tent, fishing for Spanish mackerel, mud crabbing with an Indigenous guide, and bird watching.

banubanu-beach-retreat
Banubanu Beach Retreat, Arnhem Land.

Day 13: Farewell the NT

Say goodbye to this beautiful part of Australia on a flight from Gove Airport back to Darwin and home. Or, better still, add on a few days in Darwin.

Jennifer Ennion
Jennifer Ennion is a freelance travel and ski journalist who loves encouraging people to spend more time outdoors. From snorkelling with belugas in sub-Arctic Canada to hiking the Himalayas, Jennifer is constantly searching for stories that inspire readers to push their boundaries.
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8 Red Centre locations to explore after seeing the new movie, Kangaroo

Spend a few days visiting the real-life Central Australian locations that inspired the new film everyone is talking about, and discover why Alice Springs is such an important part of Australian culture.

In the credits of the new Australian film Kangaroo , the first name under ‘cast’ should read ‘The Northern Territory ’. Not only is Alice Springs (and the surrounding landscape) integral to the movie itself, but the spiritual heart of Australia and its local Indigenous owners also inform the look and feel of every frame, explains Producer Trisha Morton-Thomas of Brindle Films, who also plays Charlie’s grandmother Gwennie.

“By setting Kangaroo in Alice Springs (Mparntwe), the film embraces how visible Aboriginal people are here, and the living Aboriginal culture that is woven through this community,” she explains.

still from kangarro film
See Kangaroo, then visit the real-life filming locations.

And while shooting in such a sacred part of the Northern Territory required extra planning, it was something the cast and crew were highly invested in.

“There are incredibly significant sacred sites and places of deep cultural stories in the area, that at times are very gender-specific, which we’ve kept out of the production,” she explains. “Even if overhead drone footage captures a sacred site that isn’t meant to be seen by other people outside of that clan, we’ve made sure to omit it from the film.”

If Kangaroo piqued your interest in a Central Australian holiday, we don’t blame you. Read on to discover eight places featured in the movie that you can visit in real life – and get planning. Don’t forget to pack sunscreen and a hat.

1. Alice Springs/ Mparntwe

artist at Many Hands Art Centre
Visit the galleries of Alice Springs, like Many Hands Art Centre. (Image: Tourism NT/ Helen Orr/ Many Hands Art Centre)

The red and dusty streets of the film’s fictional town of Silvergum were filmed on the outskirts of Alice Springs. And, while the art gallery featured in the film is fictional, Alice Springs is a hub of creativity. See the work of local artists at the Araluen Art Centre , Yubu Napa Art Gallery , Iltja Ntjarra (Many Hands) Art Centre and the famous Tjanpi Desert Weavers .

2. The Kangaroo Sanctuary & Kangaroo Rescue Centre

The Kangaroo Sanctuary Alice Springs, the inspiration for the Kangaroo move
Visit the movie’s inspiration at Kangaroo Sanctuary. (Image: Tourism NT/ Kangaroo Sanctuary)

Kangaroo was inspired by the journey of Chris ‘Brolga’ Barns, who founded the now world-renowned Kangaroo Sanctuary based in Alice Springs. For lead actor, Aussie Ryan Corr, the animals were central to the movie, alongside the landscapes.

“The animals in this story were a real calling point for me,” he explains. “What this story tries to tell us about the connection between humans and animals is beautiful.”

To gain a real insight into the fauna and flora of the Red Centre, you can visit the Kangaroo Sanctuary on a sunset tour, where you might even get the chance to hold a baby kangaroo.

3. Ormiston Gorge

woman walking along the edge of Ormiston Gorge near alice springs
Take a dip in Ormiston Gorge. (Image: Tourism NT/ @domandjesso)

The film captures the raw beauty of the West MacDonnell Ranges, known in the Arrernte language as Tjoritja. This national park is rich in Indigenous culture and stark geological wonders.

Only a 15-minute drive from Alice Springs, Tjoritja offers visitors the chance to camp, hike and swim among ancient landscapes (most attractions are less than a three-hour drive away).

Ormiston Gorge , a cooling oasis in among the red desert sands, is one of the most popular destinations, no doubt because of the permanent swimming hole and towering red cliffs. From here, visitors can also embark on the beautiful Ormiston Pound Walk and the shorter – more accessible – Ghost Gum Walk. Bring your bathers – it’s safe for swimming.

4. Standley Chasm

woman walking through Standley Chasm near alice springs
Wander through Standley Chasm. (Image: Tourism NT)

The 1.2-kilometre walk to nearby Standley Chasm will be a highlight for any visitor as the imposing 40 metre-high chasm walls project strength and ancient wisdom.

Visit at midday to experience the path illumined by the midday sun. Not only will you fill your camera roll with vibrant red images of the gorge and its intoxicating shadows, but you can also camp nearby in a powered or unpowered site so you can watch the brilliance of the desert stars fill the night sky after dusk.

5. Simpsons Gap

three people walking on path through simpsons gap near alice springs
Walk the trails of Simpson’s Gap. (Image: Tourism NT/ Helen Orr)

Closer to Alice Springs, the photogenic Simpsons Gap is the perfect place to spot the endangered Black-footed Rock wallaby near the permanent watering hole. While swimming isn’t permitted, soaking up the sun and views certainly is.

Explore the area’s numerous walking trails, appreciate the soaring cliffs on either side of the ‘gap’ and pick out the shooting locations of Kangaroo in the area.

6. Ellery Creek Big Hole

aerial of Ellery Creek Big Hole near alice springs
Dive into Ellery Creek Big Hole. (Image: Tourism NT/ Tourism Australia)

When it comes to classic Northern Territory landscapes, you can’t go past Ellery Creek Big Hole/ Udepata : tall gum trees sidling up to a refreshing watering hole (fed by the West MacDonnell Ranges and surrounded by rugged red cliffs.

Swim in the cooling waters, hike the cliff tops, watch for birds and even stargaze as you camp here overnight. It’s locations like this that attracted the film’s director Kate Woods to the project.

“It humbles you to be in this environment: it’s so beautiful, so old and so vast,” she explains. “I was thrilled to get a chance to … shoot such a beautiful story in the incredible landscape of the Northern Territory.”

7. Larapinta Drive

aerial of Larapinta Drive into alice springs
Drive along Larapinta Drive. (Image: Tourism NT)

There is no better way to get a feel for how the characters arrived at the fictional Central Australian town of Silvergum than to travel along the iconic state road, Larapinta Drive.

Connecting Alice Springs to the mighty King’s Canyon in the west, via the historic community of Hermannsburg, this road takes in the West MacDonnell National Park, Alice Springs Desert Park and artist Albert Namatjira’s house, among other attractions. Take your time, bring a camera and prepare for numerous stops along the way.

8. Todd River

competitors in Henley on Todd Regatta, alice springs
Join in the fun of the quirky Henley on Todd Regatta. (Image: Tourism NT/ TImparja Creative)

Meandering through Alice Springs like a lazy Western Brown snake, the Todd River is a central part of Alice Springs culture. Known as an ‘intermittent river’, the Todd can go from a dry dusty riverbed to a flowing waterscape in less than 15 minutes after heavy rainfall.

When it’s dry, the famous Henley on Todd Regatta fills the sandy riverbed with handmade ‘boats’ carried by sailors. This is the world’s only dry river boating event, and it’s referenced in the ‘Silvergum Boat Race’ in the movie. Inspired by the real-life event, the characters built quirky “Flintstones-style boats” and competed in teams.

See Kangaroo in cinemas now, and start planning your NT getaway at northernterritory.com.