The ultimate Kakadu to Arnhem Land itinerary

Jennifer EnnionBy Jennifer Ennion
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Delve deep into one of Australia’s most fascinating and remote regions on this epic road trip through Kakadu and Arnhem Land.  

Day one: Darwin to Jabiru

 It’s Australia’s northernmost capital city and has a reputation for a heady mix of Asian cuisine, outdoor markets and movies, and fascinating war history – quite simply, Darwin is a holiday in itself. But it’s also the gateway to the country’s largest national park, UNESCO World Heritage-listed Kakadu and Arnhem Land, probably Australia’s most undiscovered and underrated regions.

Leave the city sights for another trip, hire a 4WD from the airport and hit Arnhem Highway for Jabiru, 253 kilometres away. Call into Bowali Visitor Centre to get a lay of the land before checking into Mercure Kakadu Crocodile Hotel (in the shape of a croc). Enjoy a well-deserved float in the pool after a big travel day.

Mercure Crocodile Hotel in Kakadu
The famous Mercure Crocodile Hotel in Kakadu

Day two: Ubirr

Rise early and lather up with sunscreen to explore Ubirr , an Aboriginal rock-art site that will impress the littlest of travellers. From the main car park, there’s an easy one-kilometre walking loop that leads visitors past galleries of ancient illustrations. If you’re travelling with kids, tell them to keep an eye out for the thylacine. Climb the steps to a natural lookout over Nadab floodplain and Arnhem Land; views run to the horizon over a lime landscape and you’d be hard-pressed not to be moved by the swathes of empty space. For a more in-depth experience, join a ranger-guided tour.

 

You should also check out Cahills Crossing, a popular spot for croc-watching at East Alligator River – be sure to stay clear of the water. Before returning to the hotel, swing past Foodland grocery store in Jabiru to stock up on basic snacks, such as trail mix and energy-boosting muesli bars.

Ancient rock drawings at Ubirr, Kakadu
Ancient rock drawings at Ubirr, Kakadu National Park.

Day three: Maguk Waterfall

Kakadu is famous for its waterfalls, which thunder during the wet (November to April) and mollify in the dry (May to October). The best time to see them is in winter, when you can hike to their base and enjoy refreshing dips. Today, check out of your Jabiru accommodation and hit the 4WD-only road to Maguk Waterfall , which leads to the trail head of a gentle two-kilometre (return) walk through monsoon forest.

 

The relatively easy access to the falls makes it one of the most popular Kakadu attractions, so set out early to enjoy a swim in the freshwater plunge pool before midday crowds arrive. Then it’s time to kick up orange dust on another 4WD-only road, this time to Gunlom campground , ahead of tomorrow’s adventure.

Girl relaxing at Barramundi Gorge (Maguk)
One of Kakadu’s lesser-known attractions, Maguk is a pristine natural waterfall and plunge pool at the base of steep gorge walls.

Day four: Gunlom Falls

The eerily beautiful pools atop Gunlom Falls are a highlight on any Kakadu itinerary. To reach the top, you’ll need to tackle a steep climb for about 30 minutes, so rise with the sun while the air is cool and the track empty. Once there, you’ll discover tiered pools of fresh, ink-like water that are oh-so-inviting. Snap a photo at the edge of the natural infinity pool for the ’gram before bobbing about in a BYO inflatable ring.

 

Back at the base of the escarpment, follow a path around to a large pool where you can enjoy another swim before returning to your campsite for a picnic lunch. In the afternoon, make your way to Cooinda Campground (there’s motel facilities too), about two hours’ drive away.

Gunlom Falls infinity pool
The natural infinity pool of Gunlom Falls with Kakadu stretching out before it.

Day five: Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) and Yellow Water

 If you loved the rock art of Ubirr, you’ll also want to make time to visit Burrungkuy (Nourlangie ). The art here depicts the life of the Indigenous Bininj people and there are ranger-guided walks during the dry season. Another not-to-miss attraction is Ngurrungurrudjba (Yellow Water). If you visit in the dry, you can explore the floodplain via a 2.6-kilometre (return) walk to a boardwalk and viewing platform, where you’ll be able to spot saltwater crocodiles.

 

If you’d rather be on the water, join a Yellow Water Cruises’ sunset tour of Yellow Water Billabong and South Alligator River. The Indigenous-owned and operated trips give you plenty of time to admire Kakadu’s wildlife, including black-necked storks and tree snakes.

Days six to nine: East Arnhem Land

Take your adventure up a notch by heading into East Arnhem Land, one of the last truly remote areas of Australia. The best way to explore the Indigenous region is by joining a tour, such as a chartered fishing trip or cultural excursion, however it’s wise to give yourself a day to reach your accommodation (simple lodges, motels and campgrounds) and settle into Arnhem life. To enter the region, a permit from Northern Land Council is required; if you have a guide, ask if they can arrange one.

 

If you’d rather join a tour from Kakadu, our pick is Venture North Safaris’ 4-day Arnhem Land and Cobourg Peninsula Tour . It’s a round-trip from Jabiru and takes in popular Injalak Arts centre, the ruins of Victoria Settlement (a former British military outpost), turtle nesting areas and Cobourg wetlands. There are also , as well as fly-in/fly-out fishing charters if you’re keen to bag a barra.

 

If you have plenty of time or yearn to learn more, visit Arnhem Land during the annual Garma Festival, a celebration of Indigenous culture (the next one will be in July-August 2021). The festival is held at Gulkula, 30 minutes’ drive from Nhulunbuy; you’ll need prior approval to attend.

Dancing Garma Festival
Garma Festival, NT: Indigenous culture at is most vibrant and lively.

Day 10: West Arnhem

If it’s the Top End’s rock art that captivates you, head into West Arnhem for a close-up look at the galleries at Mt Borradaile, a sacred Aboriginal site. Accessible in both the wet and dry seasons, there is a huge collection of art here, including a depiction of the rainbow serpent. Davidson’s Arnhemland Safaris runs tours, along with a few other options, such as billabong sunset cruises and birdwatching. Overnight at the Davidson’s eco lodge.

Davidsons Eco Lodge
Stay overnight at the Davidson’s eco lodge.

Days 11 and 12: Bremer Island

Ditch the car and catch a 15-minute scenic flight from Gove Airport to Bremer Island for two nights at Banubanu Beach Retreat . The eco-friendly property runs primarily on solar power and offers travellers a back-to-basics hideaway, perfect for unwinding after the adventures of Kakadu. Fill your days chilling in your beachfront glamping tent, fishing for Spanish mackerel, mud crabbing with an Indigenous guide, and bird watching.

banubanu-beach-retreat
Banubanu Beach Retreat, Arnhem Land.

Day 13: Farewell the NT

Say goodbye to this beautiful part of Australia on a flight from Gove Airport back to Darwin and home. Or, better still, add on a few days in Darwin.

Jennifer Ennion
Jennifer Ennion is a freelance travel and ski journalist who loves encouraging people to spend more time outdoors. From snorkelling with belugas in sub-Arctic Canada to hiking the Himalayas, Jennifer is constantly searching for stories that inspire readers to push their boundaries.
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Gunlom Falls: popular Kakadu site reopens after 6-year closure

    Rachael ThompsonBy Rachael Thompson
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    One of Kakadu’s most renowned landmarks has reopened after being closed for nearly six years due to a legal battle.

    Gunlom Falls is the jewel in the crown of Kakadu National Park. This culturally significant and visually exquisite site has drawn locals and visitors for its cascading 85-metre-tall waterfall and breathtaking pools, which have historically been one of the most popular swimming spots in the region. The top natural infinity pool offers spectacular views across Kakadu National Park, while the bottom pool allows you to swim in the pristine water beneath the cascading waterfall, surrounded by a tranquil sandy beach.

    But in 2019, the site closed, and visitors hadn’t been able to take a dip in the pristine pools or take photos at the site featured in the 1986 cult classic Crocodile Dundee since. Until now. The magnificent falls reopened to the public on 4 July 2025. 

    Kakadu-born and owner of Lord Safaris , Sab Lord, has over 30 years of experience running private tours across Australia’s Top End. He collaborates with local Aboriginal guides and emphasises the importance of visiting the area for both locals and overseas visitors who want to explore its rich culture and natural beauty. “Normally, Gunlom Falls is always on my private itineraries because it’s such a beautiful location. It’s one of the most unique and exciting places to visit in Kakadu,” he said.

    It’s also an important cultural site for the local Jawoyn people. Ryan Barrowei, Senior Traditional Owner and Chair of Kakadu National Park Board of Management, highlighted the importance of the area, stating:

    “Gunlom is an important place for Jawoyn. This land holds stories about our culture, law, and our history. It is just as important for Jawoyn today as it was in Buwurr times (the Dreamtime). Our most powerful Ancestors, Bulajang, still reside on Jawoyn Country today. According to the Traditional Owners, Bulla – a spirit so powerful, they compare it to Armageddon – rests at Gunlom Falls, at the base of sickness country.”

    According to the Traditional Owners, Bulla – a spirit so powerful, they compare it to Armageddon – rests at Gunlom Falls, at the base of sickness country.

    Gunlom Falls Kakadu National Park
    Gunlom Falls is a place of spiritual significance and natural beauty. (Image: Lords Safaris)

    Why was Gunlom Falls closed?

    In 2019, construction was undertaken for a realignment of a walking track by Parks Australia. The track was designed to improve access and safety for visitors to the iconic top pools of Gunlom Falls, but in doing so, it exposed a sacred Jawoyn men’s site to the public and damaged the area. The area was closed at the request of the Traditional Owners.

    Plans for the walkway’s design deviated from what was approved by the Traditional Owners and were conducted without obtaining an authority certificate under the Northern Territory Aboriginal Sacred Sites Act 1989 (NT) . The Act is integral for the protection of Aboriginal culture and heritage in the Northern Territory, which prohibits a “person” from carrying out work on or using a “sacred site” without authority.  The Aboriginal Areas Protection Authority (AAPA) charged the Director of National Parks (DNP) with an offence under the Act, which resulted in the matter going to court. 

    Gunlom Falls Kakadu National Park
    The sunset reflected in the water of the top pool. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    In September 2022, the Full Court of the Supreme Court of the Northern Territory rejected the case, ruling at the time that the DNP was immune from liability over sacred site damage. In 2023, the AAPA successfully appealed the decision in the High Court, and the current DNP pleaded guilty. The current DNP, Djungan man Ricky Archer, is the first Indigenous person to hold this position, and while the damage occurred before his tenure, he apologised to the Traditional Owners. In 2024, a unanimous decision by the Full Court of the Supreme Court of the Northern Territory resulted in a $200,000 fine for the damage. 

    This case highlights the importance of acknowledging Aboriginal land rights and serves as a reminder to travellers to be respectful when visiting sacred sites. Matthew Ryan, NLC Chair, said in a powerful statement at last year’s hearing, “AAPA and the Traditional Owners have worked really hard over the last five years to recognise Gunlom as a sacred place. Now we can all look to the future of caring for this incredible place.”

    Gunlom Falls Kakadu National Park
    Enjoy refreshing dips and breathtaking views. (Image: Lords Safaris)

    When is the best time to visit Gunlom Falls?

    The best time to visit Gunlom Falls is in the dry season (May to October) when there are better hiking conditions, minimal flooding, and clear, calm waters. According to Sab, the area has very few mosquitoes and is slightly cooler due to its distance from the coastal region, with temperatures being a couple of degrees lower.

    Gunlom Falls Kakadu National Park
    Gunlom Falls is projected to reopen in the dry season. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    How to get to Gunlom Falls

    Visitors can drive from Darwin, which takes approximately three hours via the Stuart and Arnhem highways. If you prefer not to do a self-drive or would like a more immersive experience, tours like those created by Sab will be a great way to gain insight into the area and its history and cultural significance and hear directly from First Nations people. The nearest accommodation is approximately a two-hour drive away at Cooinda Lodge , so the spacious public campground equipped with hot showers and flushing toilets is a popular choice.