The best Phillip Island accommodation for a coastal getaway

Tuck yourself away in a design-led cabin, bed down in a schmick beachside apartment or hole up in a dreamy whitewashed Airbnb – there’s a wealth of choice on this Victorian island.

Long a popular seaside destination for holidaymakers, this Bass Coast isle is not short of hotels, cabins, guesthouses and holiday parks, but it can take a few clicks to find the right property. Whether you’re after a peaceful retreat in nature, a historic bolthole in the thick of the action, or a modern hotel with a few facilities, these Phillip Island accommodation options should have you covered.

Five Acres

A cluster of three coastal cabins, hidden away down a dirt track on the isle’s west coast, Five Acres is the ultimate boutique retreat (it also made it into our coveted list of 100 Unique Stays). There are some serious Scandinavian vibes to the minimalist interiors here, sculpted from – and bedecked with – a riot of natural textures and materials.

The piece de resistance is arguably the freestanding smoky grey concrete bathtub that stands on the cabin’s sheltered deck, overlooking the owners’ micro-farm, where highland cattle and sheep graze. Bibliophiles will rejoice at the plentiful supply of reading materials, from cookbooks and poetry paperbacks to modern tomes on sustainable living. Guests are also treated to a beautiful breakfast spread, all from the comfort of their own cabin: you’ll find homemade granola, freshly ground coffee beans and locally made yoghurt in the kitchen pantry, perfect for enjoying alfresco on your villa’s private deck.

Address: 46 Mchaffies Ln, Ventnor

The North Pier Hotel

Smack-bang in the centre of Cowes, Phillip Island’s main township, the North Pier Hotel is a solid all-rounder. There’s a wide range of rooms on offer, from more economical Budget Rooms with twin beds and ‘retro’ bathrooms, to north-facing Ocean View Rooms with outdoor spaces (either balcony or patio) and the spacious ground-floor Bay View Suite, which has a more boutique look and feel. The hotel is also home to a popular bar and bistro, which dishes up generous portions of classic pub grub: parmas, burgers, pizzas and more. Punters also love the huge play area for kids, which features indoor bouncy castles and even a mini theatre.

Address: 5 The Esplanade, Cowes

Verandah Retreat

Looking for a little exclusivity? This grand beach house delivers. Located in Cowes, Verandah Retreat is a whitewashed three-bedroom two-bathroom home that sleeps up to six and promises lashings of interior design inspiration (or, perhaps, house envy). Inside, there’s an open fireplace (firewood provided) and an open-plan kitchen with a breakfast bar island. Outside, lies a large deck with a dining table, picnic benches and a hanging swing chair, plus a north-facing garden. To top it all off, Verandah Retreat is just 200 meters from the ocean.

Address: 3A Gordon Street, Cowes

The Sheltered Glamping Co

Those looking to get closer to nature should leaf through the options available with The Sheltered Glamping Co . This eco-conscious operation has several tents dotted around a private plot of land, all within walking distance of a secluded beach and a local winery.

Hosts Randall and Kathleen offer four different options to suit your needs (and budget), but all promise the same immersion within Phillip Island’s dreamy pastoral landscapes, plus access to a wood-fired hot tub under the stars for an additional fee.

The two canvas bell tents, ‘Gentoo’ and ‘Adèlie’, feature queen-sized beds and custom-made furniture, handcrafted on the island,  as well as a private outdoor heated shower and composting toilet, and a shared kitchenette facility.

Dial up the luxury factor a little, and you can stay in ‘Emperor’, a spacious, fully furnished safari tent. Home to an indoor wood-burning fireplace, a four-poster queen-sized bed, a king-sized bed built into the wall,  a small kitchen, solar-powered lighting, fans, USB charging ports, a speaker, and a private sheltered deck with a Weber barbecue, it’s fair to say every last detail has been taken care of here.

And if the idea of glamping at all is too much to contend with, there’s always the ‘Wülshed’. Ideal for couples, or small families, this former working woolshed has four solid walls and all the mod cons, as well as plenty of rustic country charm.

Address: Ventnor

Genesta House

A cosy guesthouse right in the thick of Cowes and full of old-world charm, Genesta House has just three immaculately furnished suites, each overlooking the property’s manicured garden from their own private verandahs. With its white picket fence, plush furnishings, chandeliers, renovated bathrooms, and warm hospitality courtesy of owners and hosts Simonne and Marcus, you’re sure to feel right at home in this weatherboard house, which dates back to 1914.

Address: 18 Steele St, Cowes

Glen Isla House

Among the most highly rated boltholes on the island, Glen Isla is something of a failsafe for those seeking cosy country charm and good old-fashioned hospitality. With just a handful of rooms to its name, this adults-only B&B offers a quiet escape. Each of the quaint and homely ‘Classic Deluxe’ en suite rooms opens out onto a small, shared deck, and has garden views.

Family-owned and -operated, hosts Richard and Evie (and their charming pup Buddy) see to it that every guest is well looked after, from their hearty home cooked breakfast (included in the rate), to the warm welcome and their readily shared local knowledge.

Address: 230 Church St, Cowes

Las Olas Shack, Phillip Island

A dreamy little two-bed ‘shack’, slap-bang in the centre of the island, Las Olas is a soothing blend of blond wood, white walls and bohemian-chic touches in shades of honey. Once a ‘60s fibro shack, this Airbnb has been lovingly renovated by husband and wife owners, Rich and Aura, who’ve clearly thought of every last detail, from curating the collection of vintage ceramic mugs in the kitchen, to the underfloor heating in the bathroom, and the beautiful linens that adorn this house’s four beds (one queen, one single, one set of bunk beds).

Beyond all of the run-of-the-mill mod cons, you’ll find a freestanding wood stove in the living room, an outdoor shower in the palm-lined garden, a cosy al fresco nook with a fire pit, and a veranda complete with a hammock.

Address: Wimbledon Heights

The Loft, Phillip Island

This open-plan one-bed property, a mere block from Smiths Beach, is a showstopper. And what it lacks in square meterage, it makes up for in style and design. Open the front door and you’ll be greeted by a curved staircase lined with speckled dove-grey stone, imported from Italy, and walls clad with American Oak. Ascend to The Loft and you’ll find sweeping views of coastal farmland and Cape Woolamai, along with a palette of soft neutrals.

Highlights of this slick apartment stay include a custom-designed and built TV and soundbar cabinet, which revolves to face either the king-sized bed or the curved cream sofa, and the modern bathroom with a walk-in rain shower, bathtub and underfloor heating.

Address: Smiths Beach

Discover the best things to do on Phillip Island

Video credit: Visit Victoria/Tourism Australia

The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd . In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.

Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.

‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.

Exchanging city chaos for country calm

kangaroos near Halls Gap, Grampians National Park — The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.

I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.

The trails and treasures of the Grampians

sunrise at Grampians National Park /Gariwerd — Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)

Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.

Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles . I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.

walking through a cave, Hollow Mountain — Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)

There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail , Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.

Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.

“There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.

wildflowers in Grampians National Park — Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.

Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)

The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.

What else is on offer in The Grampians?

a boat travelling along the Wimmera River inDimboola — Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)

You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.

And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region ? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).

dining at Pomonal Estate — Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.

The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.

Salingers of Great Western — Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)

There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.

The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.

Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.

And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.

Kookaburras on a tree — Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)

You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity .

Playing there

abseiling down Hollow Mountain — Hollow Mountain is a popular abseiling site.

Go abseiling under the stars or join a guided hike with Absolute Outdoors . Visit Wama , Australia’s first environmental art centre. Check out Dimboola’s eccentric Imaginarium .

Eating there

steak, naan bread and beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap — Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap serves a great steak on naan bread.

Eat world-class cuisine at Pomonal Estate . Dine and stay at much-revered icon Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. The ‘steak on naan’ at Halls Gap brewhouse Paper Scissors Rock , can’t be beat.

Dunkeld Arboretum in Grampians National Park — The serene Dunkeld Arboretum.

For Halls Gap’s best breakfasts head to Livefast Cafe . Sip local wines at Great Western’s historic wineries, Best’s Wines , Seppelt Wines and Norton Estate Wines .

two glasses of beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap — Sink a cold one at Paper Scissors Rock.