Top Towns for 2022: Behold the beguiling town of Beechworth

Jo StewartBy Jo Stewart
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After growing at breakneck speed during the Victorian goldrush, Beechworth is booming again, finds Jo Stewart. Discover what made Beechworth into your Top 50 Aussie towns list.

Find the complete list of the Top 50 Aussie Towns here.

As a historic goldmining town that was once the stamping ground of infamous bushrangers, Beechworth could stray into contrived tourist-trap territory. Instead, the north-east Victorian town is experiencing a renaissance thanks to an entrepreneurial community of new and veteran business owners whose exceptional food, beer and wine offerings are giving out-of-towners fresh reasons to visit. 

The 1892 Beechworth fire station
The 1892 Beechworth fire station is still intact up to this day.

Eating there

Start the day with a latte made on a baby-pink La Marzocco coffee machine at Tiny of Beechworth , a cute coffee haunt that also serves cocktails after 4pm. Around the corner, Project 49 stocks panini, salads and soups, plus a top range of local wines, olives and pantry essentials sourced from small-scale, local producers. 

If you think all honey tastes the same, the Beechworth Honey Shop will certainly set you straight. With more than 40 single varietal honeys to try, this is Australia’s largest collection of liquid gold. Here, you’ll learn that scented ash honey has hints of violet while spotted-gum honey has a strong caramel flavour. You’ll never view a jar of honey in the same way. 

Pastry fans shouldn’t miss a local heavyweight of the old-school bakery scene. From humble origins, the Beechworth Bakery  brand has grown to include outposts in Bright, Bendigo and beyond, but the Camp Street original remains as busy as ever.

Inside, you’ll find classic country bakery standards such as meringues, iced doughnuts and lamingtons overflowing with cream. The Ned Kelly meat pie topped with bacon, cheese and egg is hard to go past – well over 1000 are sold each month at this bakery alone.  

outdoor view of the Beechworth Bakery
Don’t miss a trip to the Beechworth Bakery.

Wet your whistle with an afternoon beer on the breezy balcony of the grand, old Empire Hotel or visit Bridge Road Brewers  for woodfired pizza and award-winning ales in an 1800s coach-house.

cold beer at Bridge Road Brewers
Visit Bridge Road Brewers for beer. (Image: Phoebe Powell)

A behind-the-scenes brewery tour runs daily at 11am, so book in to see how the malty magic happens. 

woodfired pizza at the Bridge Street Brewers
Savour woodfired pizza at the Bridge Street Brewers. (Image: Phoebe Powell)

A giant of the national drinks scene, Billson’s Brewery  has flown the flag for Australian beverages since 1865. Its striking, historic home on Last Street has a taproom, bar, tasting room, pooch-friendly beer garden and cellar-door shop to explore. Make your way to the factory-viewing platform to see the inner workings of this enterprise that has been tied to the town for more than 150 years.  

On Camp Street, Billson’s Soda Bar  proves you don’t need alcohol to have a good time. Behind the ornate gold lettering on the front window, you’ll likely be greeted by a dapper gent dressed in a vest and tie. Cordials, mocktails and ice-cream spiders are all on the menu here, providing a cool spot for a hangover-free night out.  

Staying there  

A stay at The Hive Apartment at Beechworth Honey puts you in a sweet spot. Right in the centre of town, the historic building was once a bank manager’s residence and gold office. Now it’s a lovely, light-filled three-bedroom short-stay hotel with a subtle bee theme.

cosy bedroom at the Hive Hotel
The Hive Hotel is a sweet spot in town. (Image: Richard Iskov)

One kilometre out of town, The Benev  is a welcome addition to Beechworth. What was once an asylum is now an upscale spa hotel that’s a destination in its own right. Described as a ‘child and screen-free haven’, a stay in a signature wellness suite (complete with freestanding stone bath) is just the ticket if you’re looking to unwind in peace, sans kids.  

Playing there 

Spend two hours completing the Beechworth Gorge Walk circuit around the town’s fringes for a dose of nature and local history. The Kelly Gang took cover in these tracts of bushland that are littered with goldrush remnants, including the Powder Magazine, which was built to store the explosives used to blast the landscapes in search of gold.  

Beechworth Cemetery is where many other notable locals have been laid to rest. From a victim of a bushranger shootout to an American Civil War veteran who died of alcoholism, a wander around the cemetery reveals much about the social fabric of the town in the 1800s. Many Chinese miners were also buried here, with the cemetery’s distinctive burning towers once used for burning prayers and gifts for the afterlife.

In 2016, a community buyback of the imposing Old Beechworth Gaol  led to the historic property serving Beechworth in a brand-new way. Book ahead to learn about the gaol’s grim past and see the cell that once housed the one and only Ned Kelly – a pre-booked tour is the only way you can see inside for yourself.  

cafe at the Old Beechworth Gaol
The Old Beechworth Gaol is now a buzzing spot, too.

What was once a house of pain (eight men were executed here in the 1800s) now houses a co-working space, cafe, event spaces and a hub for rural entrepreneurship. Despite its transformation from a place of detention to a space for innovation, the gaol’s heritage has been retained and honoured. Just like the town itself, Old Beechworth Gaol straddles the past and the present with aplomb.

Explore more of Beechworth in our travel guide or find out which other towns made it into your Top 50.
Jo Stewart
Jo Stewart is a freelance features writer who pens stories about nature, pop culture, music, art, design and more from her home in the Macedon Ranges of Victoria. When not writing, you can find her trawling through vinyl records and vintage fashion at op shops, antique stores and garage sales.
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Taking the route less travelled along the Great Ocean Road

    Megan ArkinstallBy Megan Arkinstall
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    The Great Ocean Road has captured the hearts of Australians with its astounding scenery since 1932, but going off-course can enrich your experience with untouched nature, foodie delights and charming towns. 

    It’s a chilly 16 degrees. My husband pulls on a steamer and jogs – as all seasoned surfers do – into the water. We’re at Bells Beach , the legendary break on Victoria’s Surf Coast that’s home to the Rip Curl Pro, the world’s longest-running event in competitive surfing. Each year, over the Easter long weekend, up to 40,000 people descend on the region for the event. Today, though, we have the beach almost to ourselves, and the less-than-favourable temperature doesn’t deter my husband from surfing this famous break.  

    Bells Beach
    Bells Beach is known for its epic surf break and is at the start of the Great Ocean Road. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Torquay to Anglesea and Aireys Inlet 

    Split Point Lighthouse
    The red dome of Split Point Lighthouse in Aireys Inlet. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    The nearby surf town of Torquay marks the starting point for the Great Ocean Road . Unfolding our map, which we have marked out with a highlighted route for our children to follow, we set off for lesser-known Anglesea, a chilled-out town 20 minutes south of here. Its wide, sandy beach is a gentler swimming option for our young family. Groms can learn to surf here with Go Ride a Wave, which also runs stand-up paddle boarding on the Anglesea River.  

    Split point lookout
    The lighthouse overlooks the Shipwreck Coast. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    After a couple of nights in Anglesea, we hit the road again, first stopping at Aireys Inlet. Here we stretch our legs at Split Point Lighthouse, which was made famous by the 1990s television series Round the Twist, before driving under the Memorial Arch that welcomes us, officially, to the Great Ocean Road.  

    This 243-kilometre coastal road was built by returned First World War servicemen and serves as a permanent memorial to those who fought and died during the war. Carved into rock using hand tools and horse-drawn carts, it was a huge engineering feat and provided much-needed access to isolated coastal communities. 

    Lorne to Birregurra 

    Lorne is a delightful beachside stop for lunch and browsing boutique stores. It’s also the gateway to Great Otway National Park , which comprises a varied landscape of old-growth forests, cool-temperate rainforests, heathy woodlands and rugged coast. With the highest rainfall in Victoria, the region is home to many waterfalls – 10 of which are within 10 kilometres of Lorne.  

    Turning slightly off the main drag, we wind along a gum-shaded road to Erskine Falls. Here, our son leads the way through the hyper-green rainforest and down 200-plus stairs to the cascade that drops 30 metres into a lush fern gully. We hop over large boulders to get closer to the falls, enjoying the entire place to ourselves; it’s worth the return climb.  

    From Sheoak Falls Picnic Area, there are walking trails to Henderson Falls, Phantom Falls, Won Wondah Falls and Kalimna Falls, some of which follow an old timber tramway from forest-logging days, which only came to an end in 2008.  

    Erskine Falls
    Erskine Falls is one of many falls within a day trip of Lorne. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    You can follow your appetite north to the town of Birregurra, which is part of the Otway Harvest Trail that connects farm gates, markets, wineries, breweries and distilleries. It’s home to three-hatted modern Australian restaurant Brae , helmed by celebrated chef Dan Hunter, set among native gardens and an organic farm, and Otways Distillery, which produces small-batch spirits using local produce and botanicals.  

    Brae restaurant
    Brae is a three-hatted restaurant in Birregurra. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Apollo Bay to The Otways 

    Back on track, the cliff-hugging stretch between Lorne and Apollo Bay is breathtaking. At Teddys Lookout, we overlook the winding road ahead and St George River spilling into the ocean. We spend languid days in Apollo Bay, a buzzy seaside town that boasts a three-kilometre-long, crescent-shaped beach with a backdrop of rolling green hills. One evening, as the sun sets, we take the steep 10-minute walk to Marriners Lookout, which affords panoramic views of the ocean, hinterland and town.  

    A 15-minute drive along the road, Maits Rest is a lush rainforest gully that has been protected since the early 20th century. Wandering along the 800-metre boardwalk, we inspect the delicate moss-covered forest floor and the gnarled roots of 300-year-old myrtle beech trees, then crane our necks to see their canopies, some 50 metres above us. It’s therapy in nature.  

    Cape Otway to the Twelve Apostles 

    Twelve Apostles
    One of the famous Twelve Apostles, limestone sea stacks that rise from the Southern Ocean. (Image: Ben Savage)

    The southernmost tip of Cape Otway is a delightful detour, home to the 1848-built Cape Otway Lightstation, the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia. We climb the narrow winding staircase to the gallery deck, explore the keepers’ quarters and telegraph station, and enjoy a coffee and some ‘famous’ scones at the charming onsite cafe.    

    It’s a pinch-me moment to finally see the Twelve Apostles in person. This unmistakable cluster of limestone stacks rising abruptly from the sea were never 12, however. When coined this in the 1890s as a marketing ploy, there were only nine; today, only seven remain after two collapsed in 2005 and 2009. We admire these Aussie icons from the viewing platform, in awe of Mother Nature’s ever-evolving artwork.  

    The Grotto
    The Grotto is another natural attraction within Port Campbell National Park. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

    Edging the wild Southern Ocean, this part of the coast – dubbed Shipwreck Coast – is made up of many sea-carved natural wonders including London Bridge, The Grotto and Gibson Steps. After exploring the lookout trails of Loch Ard Gorge/Poombeeyt Kontapool – its English name taken from the site of the 1878 shipwreck – we nestle into the sandy beach encircled by towering sandstone cliffs, as our children splash about on the water’s edge, and soak it all in.  

    Port Campbell to Timboon 

    Timboon Fine Ice Cream
    Timboon Fine Ice Cream is part of a regional foodie trail. (Image: C McConville)

    Just north of Port Campbell National Park, the region of Timboon is part of the 12 Apostles Food Artisans Trail, filled with purveyors of delicious foodstuffs such as Timboon Fine Ice Cream , Timboon Railway Shed Distillery and Apostle Whey Cheese. As an antidote to the indulgence, the 20-kilometre Poorpa Yanyeen Meerreeng Trail is a self-guided ride or walk between Port Campbell and Timboon through tall forests, over historic bridges and past sparkling lakes and farmland with grazing cattle.  

    Warrnambool to Port Fairy 

    Warrnambool building
    A 19th-century building in Warrnambool. (Image: Peter Foster)

    In Warrnambool, a town rich in maritime history, we take the four-kilometre Thunder Point Walk that traces the coast. The kids squeal when an echidna shuffles out from beneath the wooden boardwalk, and we stop to admire a seal lazing on a rock at the port.  

    Further along, the streets of quaint fishing village Port Fairy are lined with 19th-century cottages, old stone churches and Norfolk pines. Follow the historic walking trail to see some of the 60-plus National Trust buildings. Port Fairy is also home to Port Fairy Folk Festival (6-9 March), one of the country’s longest-running music and cultural festivals. You could time your road trip with the event for a fittingly celebratory end to any journey.  

    The Great Ocean Road can easily be done in three days, but we’ve spent a week on the road. The highlighted line on our now creased and well-worn map doesn’t follow the famous route precisely. It has sprouted branches in many directions, leading us to untouched rainforest and charming rural towns filled with culinary delights, and where we experienced some of our most memorable moments on the Great Ocean Road.    

    A traveller’s checklist 

    Staying there

    Oak & Anchor
    The Oak & Anchor in Port Fairy.

    The Monty is a highly anticipated, newly refurbished motel with a chic Palm Springs-inspired aesthetic set across the road from the Anglesea River. Basalt Winery in Port Fairy grows cool-climate wines such as pinot noir and Riesling in rich volcanic soil. Stay among the vines in its tiny home, complete with a kitchen, lounge area and outdoor firepit. 

    The Oak & Anchor Hotel has been a Port Fairy institution since 1857. Cosy up by the bar in winter or bask in the sunshine of the Lawn Bar in summer. The rooms are beautifully boutique with considered details, such as luxe baths for sinking into post-road trip. 

    Eating there

    The Coast in Anglesea is a modern Australian restaurant focused on local ingredients. Grand Pacific Hotel has been a local landmark in Lorne since 1879 and recently underwent a restoration. It serves a mix of traditional pub and Italian fare alongside ocean views.  

    Graze is a cosy 40-seat dining room in Apollo Bay with a modern Australian menu complemented by regional wines. Apollo Bay Distillery offers tasting flights, a gin blending masterclass and serves woodfired pizzas.