Pedal to Produce is Victoria's new must-do foodie itinerary

A cycling pilgrimage to Victoria’s High Country is a new way to consider Australia’s first ‘Gourmet Region’.

There’s a place along one of the bike paths between Beechworth and Milawa where we lose ourselves among a grove of river red gums, where the branches above interlace like the fingers of giants.

It’s autumn in Victoria’s High Country and we pause on our e-bikes to admire the picturesque path carpeted with copper-toned leaves, dancing in the breeze.

We were up at the first finger of light to launch into the unfolding day from our tiny home at Church Lane to explore the rolling hills and valleys of the state’s north-east.

We continue, e-bikes whirring, past cows and kangaroos grazing on apple-green pastures until we reconnect with the Pedal to Produce trail , which noodles past some of the state’s finest artisan makers and growers.

Milawa Mustards

cows in paddock — The cycling trail passes through a patchwork of pastures and vineyards. (Image: Tourism Australia/Brown Brothers)

Milawa Mustards is an artisan producer that’s one of a handful of businesses that came together to form Milawa Gourmet Region, the first of its kind in Australia, in 1994.

It’s inside the factory housed in an old butcher’s shop where we meet current owner Jim Mellor, who advances towards us wearing a hand-knitted beanie, grey tee, jeans and work boots. The uniform of country Victoria.

“Welcome to Milawa Mustards," says Jim, flashing an ear-to-ear grin, his lilting accent a remnant of his early years in West Yorkshire.

Jim Mellor cuts the mustard at Milawa Mustards — Current owner Jim Mellor cuts the mustard. (Image: Paddock 2 Pixel)

Jim grew up in a pub in the Humber region of England before serving in the British Army, opening a brewery in Faversham, Kent, and migrating to Australia with his wife Kirsty. The couple bought Milawa Mustards in 2010.

“Milawa Mustards is all about keeping the heritage of a cottage industry alive. The recipes we follow have been passed down for generations. I’m an artisan, so although I put my heart and soul into everything, I also make the kind of mustards that suit my own taste," says Jim, who describes his mustards as more “French than English in style".

the Milawa Mustards products — Milawa Mustards is one of the pioneering producers in the Milawa Gourmet Region. (Image: Paddock 2 Pixel)

Jim is justifiably proud of being an award-winning mustard maker and invites us to sample some of his wares, which include a best-selling balsamic mustard and a hot chilli mustard.

“All the products are handmade on the premises. We grow our own mustard seeds to ensure a consistent supply and source local ingredients such as artisanal vinegar and spices to help make the flavours sing," he says.

While Milawa, in the heart of Ned Kelly Country, was originally established as a place for gold miners to rest, the founding of the Brown Brothers winery in 1889 put the village on the map for gourmands.

These days, Milawa has further evolved to become a place known as much for its bounty of local produce as its sophisticated wining and dining scene.

cycling through the Milawa Rail Trail — Cycle along trails that thread through the landscape. (Image: Jonathan Tan)

Dining at Ava

Our self-guided Pedal to Produce itinerary also strings together some of the region’s most lauded restaurants. An eve at the atmospheric Ava is the perfect start to our culinary adventure. Although the main street of Milawa is very sleepy for a Friday night, the restaurant is packed with a mix of locals and food tourists.

Ava is run by chef Paul Szeligiewicz and his sister Monique, who share a passion for provenance and using the very best hyperlocal and seasonal ingredients.

Chef Paul Szeligiewicz ofAva — Chef Paul Szeligiewicz of Ava. (Image: Brittney Overton)

We get a taste of their farm-to-table approach with the locally sourced Rivalea pork belly with fennel, savoy cabbage and Milawa Miso Mustard washed down with a glass of Scion viognier.

“Hi. I’m Monique. Otherwise known as Mon from Wang [Wangaratta]," smiles Monique, endearing herself to us immediately. “What we want you to feel when dining at Ava is comfortable and relaxed. Although the cuisine is quite elevated, dining here still feels casual."

the signature dessert at Ava — Enjoy the signature dessert of smoked chocolate, macadamia and miso caramel at Ava. (Image: Brittney Overton)

Henley’s Wine Bar & Kitchen

The Pedal to Produce pilgrimage also includes Henley’s Wine Bar & Kitchen , on the crossroads of Milawa in a historic building constructed from hand-hewn bricks in 1861.

The landmark building has at different times been a travel depot, hotel, courthouse and public hall. Instead of tying up our horses, we tether our e-bikes to a weathered post outside Henley’s, which also serves as a cellar door for Redbank Wines.

Milawa Cheese Company

The jam-packed itinerary also loops in Milawa Cheese Company , conceptualised in 1988 by David Brown and his late wife Annie, who tasted a soft blue cheese in Northern Italy they described as “life-changing".

The company is now run by their daughter Ceridwen, aka ‘Mama Cheese’, who moved to Milawa with her parents at the age of eight. “I had no pressure from my parents to go into the business. I put that pressure on myself," says Ceridwen, whose official title is CEO.

Ceridwen says her family used to stop in Milawa on their way to the snow and she remembers the moment her dad saw the derelict butter factory for the first time.

“Dad was looking for places to put a cheese factory and it was like there was a neon light in his brain saying ‘That one, that one, that one’," she says.

staff cutting cheese during the tasting at Milawa Cheese Company — The staff at Milawa Cheese Company will guide you through the range of artisan cheeses. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The aroma of ripe cheddar is heavy in the air as we sample eight different cheeses before filling our basket with a creamy brie, deliciously stinky washed-rind cheese and gooey Milawa Blue.

We also duck into the adjacent produce store in the old butter factory where we stock up on fresh-baked Milawa Bread pastries, smoked trout and Wood Park Wines.

Brown Brothers

The Pedal to Produce trail also unfurls like a spool of thread towards Brown Brothers , which is backdropped by Mt Hotham, smudged blue on the distant horizon.

“I’m the third generation from my family working at the vineyard," says Jacob Trethowan, cellar door manager at the Brown Family Wine Group.

“Brown Brothers is known for innovation and for staying ahead of the curve in the rapidly evolving wine industry. But it’s also one of the major employers in the region," he says.

a close-up of dish at Brown Brothers Restaurant — The menu at Brown Brothers Restaurant sings of the seasons. (Image: Visit Victoria/Rob Blackburn)

Jacob tells us an engaging story about the birth of Brown Brothers and offers samples of King Valley standouts such as prosecco and shiraz. But wine tastings are not the only draw here.

We discover this while seated at a table adjacent to the winery restaurant to enjoy a light lunch of warm olives, garden greens and grilled flatbread with hummus while listening to live music. Seeing one of the chefs stroll down to the garden to snip a selection of fresh herbs and tuck them into his jacket only adds to the charm.

Sam Miranda King Valley

These days, there are six unique wine regions in Victoria’s High Country, which is now known for everything from the production of prosecco in the King Valley to the so-called Muscat Mile.

cycling Victoria’s High Country — Bike trails crisscross the King Valley in Victoria’s High Country. (Image: Visit Victoria/Ben Savage)

Sam Miranda King Valley is one of the vineyards knitted together to form a patchwork along the Milawa Gourmet Ride, one of seven Pedal to Produce trails that crisscross the region.

Here, we are ushered to a sun-dappled spot in the courtyard, which is bordered by a grove of Manchurian pear trees ablaze in the afternoon light.

Enjoy a relaxed wine tasting at Sam Miranda King Valley.

Today, Sam’s wife Rachel is working the cellar door and joins us at our table with a couple of glasses and bottles of wine for tasting. To give emphasis to what she’s about to say, Rachel pours a glass of Sam Miranda NV Prosecco and holds it up to the light.

“Our proseccos are dry, fruit-driven and a much lighter style than Champagne. You’ll notice the bead of bubbles are a pale straw colour and the aroma one of crisp green apples," says Rachel, who looks like she’s stepped off a Country Style shoot.

Enjoy an al fresco lunch at Sam Miranda King Valley.

After talking us through the wines, which include a sparkling chardonnay pinot noir and pinot noir, we enjoy a charcuterie plate featuring a selection of Beechworth cured meats and vegetables grown just metres away in the kitchen garden.

Lancemore Milawa

Lancemore Milawa has also had a hand in the making of Milawa. It’s the luxury boutique hotel every regional Australian town needs: offering exceptional food, wine and great service. Indeed, dining at Merlot at Lancemore while sipping on wines produced from Lindenderry Estate – the vineyard the eatery overlooks – is an experience worth savouring.

The Milawa Makers loop starts and finishes with great local food and wine. But there are many other treasures to discover along the 30-kilometre route. Such as stopping to admire the historic Oxley Flour Mill, its timbers protruding like broken ribs. Pausing to eat a new-season apple under the dappled shade of a grey-box gum by a roadside stall. And tracing the rough-hewn seam of Hurdle Creek all the way to the small-batch gin distillery named in its honour.

While we take the opportunity to pick up a lot of gourmet souvenirs along the way, the real riches are discovered when we allow time to soften and connect with our surrounds.

the accommodation at Lancemore Milawa — Bed down at Lancemore Milawa.

Located just an hour north-west of Melbourne, the largely undiscovered Macedon Ranges quietly pours some of Australia’s finest cool-climate wines and serves up some of Victoria’s best food.

Mention the Macedon Ranges and most people will think of day spas and mineral springs around Daylesford, cosy weekends away in the countryside or the famous Hanging Rock (of enigmatic picnic fame). Or they won’t have heard of the Macedon Ranges at all.

But this cool-climate destination has been inconspicuously building a profile as a high-quality food and wine region and is beginning to draw serious attention from oenophiles and epicureans alike.

The rise of Macedon Ranges wine

liquid gold barrels at Kyneton Ridge Estate Winery — Barrels of liquid gold at Kyneton Ridge Estate Winery. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

With elevations ranging from 300 to 800 metres, Macedon Ranges vineyards are among the highest in the country. This altitude, combined with significant day/night temperature swings, makes for a slow ripening season, in turn nurturing wines that embody elegance and structure. Think crisp chardonnays, subtle yet complex pinot noirs and delicate sparkling wines, along with niche varietals, such as gamay and nebbiolo.

Despite the region’s natural advantages – which vary from estate to estate, as each site embodies unique terroir depending on its position in relation to the Great Dividing Range, soil make-up and altitude – the Macedon Ranges has remained something of an insider’s secret. Unlike Victoria’s Yarra Valley or Mornington Peninsula, you won’t find large tour buses here and there’s no mass marketing drawing crowds.

Many of the 40-odd wineries are family-run operations with modest yields, meaning the wineries maintain a personal touch (if you visit a cellar door, you’ll likely chat to the owner or winemaker themselves) and a tight sales circle that often doesn’t go far beyond said cellar door. And that’s part of the charm.

Though wines from the Macedon Ranges are just starting to gain more widespread recognition in Australia, the first vines were planted in the 1860s, with a handful of operators then setting up business in the 1970s and ’80s. The industry surged again in the 1990s and early 2000s with the entry of wineries, such as Mount Towrong, which has an Italian slant in both its wine and food offering, and Curly Flat , now one of the largest estates.

Meet the new generation of local winemakers

the Clydesdale barn at Paramoor. — The Clydesdale barn at Paramoor. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Then, within the last 15 years, a new crop of vignerons like Andrew Wood at Kyneton Ridge Estate , whose vineyard in 2024 was the first in the Macedon Ranges to be certified by Sustainable Winegrowing Australia; Geoff Plahn and Samantha Reid at Paramoor , who have an impressive cellar door with a roaring fire and studded leather couches in an old Clydesdale barn; and Ollie Rapson and Renata Morello at Lyons Will , who rapidly expanded a small vineyard to focus on top-shelf riesling, gamay, pinot noir and chardonnay, have taken ownership of local estates.

Going back to the early days, Llew Knight’s family was one of the pioneers of the 1970s, replacing sheep with vines at Granite Hills when the wool industry dwindled. Knight is proud of the fact that all their wines are made with grapes from their estate, including a light, peppery shiraz (some Macedon wineries purchase fruit from nearby warmer areas, such as Heathcote, particularly to make shiraz) and a European-style grüner veltliner. And, as many other wineries in the region do, he relies on natural acid for balance, rather than an additive, which is often required in warmer regions. “It’s all about understanding and respecting your climate to get the best out of your wines,” he says.

farm animals atKyneton Ridge Estate — Curious residents at Kyneton Ridge Estate. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Throughout the Macedon Ranges, there’s a growing focus on sustainability and natural and low-intervention wines, with producers, such as Brian Martin at Hunter Gatherer making waves in regenerative viticulture. Martin previously worked in senior roles at Australia’s largest sparkling winemaking facility, and now applies that expertise and his own nous to natural, hands‑off, wild-fermented wines, including pét‑nat, riesling and pinot noir. “Wild fermentation brings more complexity,” he says. “Instead of introducing one species of yeast, you can have thousands and they add different characteristics to the wine.”

the vineyard at Kyneton Ridge Estate Winery — The estate’s vineyard, where cool-climate grapes are grown. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Most producers also focus on nurturing their grapes in-field and prune and pick by hand, thus avoiding the introduction of impurities and the need to meddle too much in the winery. “The better the quality of the fruit, the less you have to interfere with the natural winemaking process,” says Wood.

Given the small yields, there’s also little room for error, meaning producers place immense focus on quality. “You’re never going to compete in the middle [in a small region] – you’ve got to aim for the top,” says Curly Flat owner Jeni Kolkka. “Big wineries try to do things as fast as possible, but we’re in no rush,” adds Troy Walsh, owner and winemaker at Attwoods . “We don’t use commercial yeasts; everything is hand-harvested and everything is bottled here, so we bottle only when we’re ready, not when a big truck arrives.” That’s why, when you do see a Macedon Ranges product on a restaurant wine list, it’s usually towards the pointy end.

Come for the wine, stay for the food

pouring sauce onto a dish at Lake HouseDaylesford — Dining at Lake House Daylesford is a treat. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

If wine is the quiet achiever of the Macedon Ranges, then food is its not-so-secret weapon. In fact, the area has more hatted restaurants than any other region in Victoria. A pioneer of the area’s gourmet food movement is region cheerleader Alla Wolf-Tasker, culinary icon and founder of Daylesford’s Lake House.

For more than three decades, Wolf-Tasker has championed local producers and helped define what regional fine dining can look like in Australia. Her influence is palpable, not just in the two-hatted Lake House kitchen, but in the broader ethos of the region’s dining scene, as a wave of high-quality restaurants have followed her lead to become true destination diners.

the Midnight Starling restaurant in Kyneton Ridge Estate Winery — The hatted Midnight Starling restaurant is located in Kyneton. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

It’s easy to eat well, whether at other hatted restaurants, such as Midnight Starling in the quaint town of Kyneton, or at the wineries themselves, like Le Bouchon at Attwoods, where Walsh is inspired by his time working in France in both his food offering and winemaking.

The beauty of dining and wine touring in the Macedon Ranges is that it feels intimate and unhurried. You’re likely to meet the winemaker, hear about the trials of the latest vintage firsthand, and taste wines that never make it to city shelves. And that’s worth getting out of the city for – even if it is just an hour down the road.

Delicate dishes on the menu at Midnight Starling. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

the accommodation at Cleveland Estate, Macedon Ranges — Stay at the Cleveland Estate. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Soak up vineyard views from Cleveland Estate near Lancefield , embrace retro charm at Kyneton Springs Motel or indulge in lakeside luxury at the Lake House .

Eating there

Enjoy a four-course menu at the one-hatted Surly Goat in Hepburn Springs, Japanese-inspired fare at Kuzu in Woodend or unpretentious fine dining at Mount Monument , which also has a sculpture park.

Drinking there

wine tasting at PassingClouds Winery, Macedon Ranges — A tasting at Passing Clouds Winery. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Settle in for a tasting at Boomtown in Castlemaine, sample local drops at the cosy Woodend Cellar & Bar or wine-hop around the many cellar doors, such as Passing Clouds .

the Boomtown Winery and Cellar Bar signage — Boomtown Winery and Cellar Bar. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Playing there

a scenic river in Castlemaine — Idyllic scenes at Castlemaine. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Wander through the seasonal splendour of Forest Glade Gardens , hike to the summit of Hanging Rock, or stroll around the tranquil Sanatorium Lake.

purple flowers hanging from a tree — Purple flowers hanging from a tree. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

This Pedal to Produce itinerary is the foodie holiday you need