This Pedal to Produce itinerary is the foodie holiday you need

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A cycling pilgrimage to Victoria’s High Country is a new way to consider Australia’s first ‘Gourmet Region’.

There’s a place along one of the bike paths between Beechworth and Milawa where we lose ourselves among a grove of river red gums, where the branches above interlace like the fingers of giants.

It’s autumn in Victoria’s High Country and we pause on our e-bikes to admire the picturesque path carpeted with copper-toned leaves, dancing in the breeze.

We were up at the first finger of light to launch into the unfolding day from our tiny home at Church Lane to explore the rolling hills and valleys of the state’s north-east.

We continue, e-bikes whirring, past cows and kangaroos grazing on apple-green pastures until we reconnect with the Pedal to Produce trail, which noodles past some of the state’s finest artisan makers and growers.

Milawa Mustards

cows in paddock
The cycling trail passes through a patchwork of pastures and vineyards. (Image: Tourism Australia/Brown Brothers)

Milawa Mustards is an artisan producer that’s one of a handful of businesses that came together to form Milawa Gourmet Region, the first of its kind in Australia, in 1994.

It’s inside the factory housed in an old butcher’s shop where we meet current owner Jim Mellor, who advances towards us wearing a hand-knitted beanie, grey tee, jeans and work boots. The uniform of country Victoria.

“Welcome to Milawa Mustards," says Jim, flashing an ear-to-ear grin, his lilting accent a remnant of his early years in West Yorkshire.

Jim Mellor cuts the mustard at Milawa Mustards
Current owner Jim Mellor cuts the mustard. (Image: Paddock 2 Pixel)

Jim grew up in a pub in the Humber region of England before serving in the British Army, opening a brewery in Faversham, Kent, and migrating to Australia with his wife Kirsty. The couple bought Milawa Mustards in 2010.

“Milawa Mustards is all about keeping the heritage of a cottage industry alive. The recipes we follow have been passed down for generations. I’m an artisan, so although I put my heart and soul into everything, I also make the kind of mustards that suit my own taste," says Jim, who describes his mustards as more “French than English in style".

the Milawa Mustards products
Milawa Mustards is one of the pioneering producers in the Milawa Gourmet Region. (Image: Paddock 2 Pixel)

Jim is justifiably proud of being an award-winning mustard maker and invites us to sample some of his wares, which include a best-selling balsamic mustard and a hot chilli mustard.

“All the products are handmade on the premises. We grow our own mustard seeds to ensure a consistent supply and source local ingredients such as artisanal vinegar and spices to help make the flavours sing," he says.

While Milawa, in the heart of Ned Kelly Country, was originally established as a place for gold miners to rest, the founding of the Brown Brothers winery in 1889 put the village on the map for gourmands.

These days, Milawa has further evolved to become a place known as much for its bounty of local produce as its sophisticated wining and dining scene.

cycling through the Milawa Rail Trail
Cycle along trails that thread through the landscape. (Image: Jonathan Tan)

Dining at Ava

Our self-guided Pedal to Produce itinerary also strings together some of the region’s most lauded restaurants. An eve at the atmospheric Ava is the perfect start to our culinary adventure. Although the main street of Milawa is very sleepy for a Friday night, the restaurant is packed with a mix of locals and food tourists.

Ava is run by chef Paul Szeligiewicz and his sister Monique, who share a passion for provenance and using the very best hyperlocal and seasonal ingredients.

Chef Paul Szeligiewicz ofAva
Chef Paul Szeligiewicz of Ava. (Image: Brittney Overton)

We get a taste of their farm-to-table approach with the locally sourced Rivalea pork belly with fennel, savoy cabbage and Milawa Miso Mustard washed down with a glass of Scion viognier.

“Hi. I’m Monique. Otherwise known as Mon from Wang [Wangaratta]," smiles Monique, endearing herself to us immediately. “What we want you to feel when dining at Ava is comfortable and relaxed. Although the cuisine is quite elevated, dining here still feels casual."

the signature dessert at Ava
Enjoy the signature dessert of smoked chocolate, macadamia and miso caramel at Ava. (Image: Brittney Overton)

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Henley’s Wine Bar & Kitchen

cycling to Henley’s Wine Bar & Kitchen
Factor in a stop at Henley’s Wine Bar & Kitchen on your pedal-powered tour. (Image: Karen Webb)

The Pedal to Produce pilgrimage also includes Henley’s Wine Bar & Kitchen, on the crossroads of Milawa in a historic building constructed from hand-hewn bricks in 1861.

The landmark building has at different times been a travel depot, hotel, courthouse and public hall. Instead of tying up our horses, we tether our e-bikes to a weathered post outside Henley’s, which also serves as a cellar door for Redbank Wines.

Milawa Cheese Company

washed-rind cheeses at Milawa Cheese Company
The washed-rind cheeses win medals and hearts. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The jam-packed itinerary also loops in Milawa Cheese Company, conceptualised in 1988 by David Brown and his late wife Annie, who tasted a soft blue cheese in Northern Italy they described as “life-changing".

The company is now run by their daughter Ceridwen, aka ‘Mama Cheese’, who moved to Milawa with her parents at the age of eight. “I had no pressure from my parents to go into the business. I put that pressure on myself," says Ceridwen, whose official title is CEO.

Ceridwen says her family used to stop in Milawa on their way to the snow and she remembers the moment her dad saw the derelict butter factory for the first time.

“Dad was looking for places to put a cheese factory and it was like there was a neon light in his brain saying ‘That one, that one, that one’," she says.

staff cutting cheese during the tasting at Milawa Cheese Company
The staff at Milawa Cheese Company will guide you through the range of artisan cheeses. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The aroma of ripe cheddar is heavy in the air as we sample eight different cheeses before filling our basket with a creamy brie, deliciously stinky washed-rind cheese and gooey Milawa Blue.

We also duck into the adjacent produce store in the old butter factory where we stock up on fresh-baked Milawa Bread pastries, smoked trout and Wood Park Wines.

Brown Brothers

the menu at Brown Brothers
The menu at Brown Brothers is driven by the seasons. (Image: Brown Brothers)

The Pedal to Produce trail also unfurls like a spool of thread towards Brown Brothers, which is backdropped by Mt Hotham, smudged blue on the distant horizon.

“I’m the third generation from my family working at the vineyard," says Jacob Trethowan, cellar door manager at the Brown Family Wine Group.

“Brown Brothers is known for innovation and for staying ahead of the curve in the rapidly evolving wine industry. But it’s also one of the major employers in the region," he says.

a close-up of dish at Brown Brothers Restaurant
The menu at Brown Brothers Restaurant sings of the seasons. (Image: Visit Victoria/Rob Blackburn)

Jacob tells us an engaging story about the birth of Brown Brothers and offers samples of King Valley standouts such as prosecco and shiraz. But wine tastings are not the only draw here.

We discover this while seated at a table adjacent to the winery restaurant to enjoy a light lunch of warm olives, garden greens and grilled flatbread with hummus while listening to live music. Seeing one of the chefs stroll down to the garden to snip a selection of fresh herbs and tuck them into his jacket only adds to the charm.

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Sam Miranda King Valley

These days, there are six unique wine regions in Victoria’s High Country, which is now known for everything from the production of prosecco in the King Valley to the so-called Muscat Mile.

cycling Victoria’s High Country
Bike trails crisscross the King Valley in Victoria’s High Country. (Image: Visit Victoria/Ben Savage)

Sam Miranda King Valley is one of the vineyards knitted together to form a patchwork along the Milawa Gourmet Ride, one of seven Pedal to Produce trails that crisscross the region.

Here, we are ushered to a sun-dappled spot in the courtyard, which is bordered by a grove of Manchurian pear trees ablaze in the afternoon light.

a relaxed wine tasting at Sam Miranda King Valley
Enjoy a relaxed wine tasting at Sam Miranda King Valley.

Today, Sam’s wife Rachel is working the cellar door and joins us at our table with a couple of glasses and bottles of wine for tasting. To give emphasis to what she’s about to say, Rachel pours a glass of Sam Miranda NV Prosecco and holds it up to the light.

“Our proseccos are dry, fruit-driven and a much lighter style than Champagne. You’ll notice the bead of bubbles are a pale straw colour and the aroma one of crisp green apples," says Rachel, who looks like she’s stepped off a Country Style shoot.

an al fresco lunch at Sam Miranda King Valley
Enjoy an al fresco lunch at Sam Miranda King Valley.

After talking us through the wines, which include a sparkling chardonnay pinot noir and pinot noir, we enjoy a charcuterie plate featuring a selection of Beechworth cured meats and vegetables grown just metres away in the kitchen garden.

Lancemore Milawa

hammocks facing vineyard views at Lancemore Milawa
Soak up endless vineyard vistas.

Lancemore Milawa has also had a hand in the making of Milawa. It’s the luxury boutique hotel every regional Australian town needs: offering exceptional food, wine and great service. Indeed, dining at Merlot at Lancemore while sipping on wines produced from Lindenderry Estate – the vineyard the eatery overlooks – is an experience worth savouring.

The Milawa Makers loop starts and finishes with great local food and wine. But there are many other treasures to discover along the 30-kilometre route. Such as stopping to admire the historic Oxley Flour Mill, its timbers protruding like broken ribs. Pausing to eat a new-season apple under the dappled shade of a grey-box gum by a roadside stall. And tracing the rough-hewn seam of Hurdle Creek all the way to the small-batch gin distillery named in its honour.

While we take the opportunity to pick up a lot of gourmet souvenirs along the way, the real riches are discovered when we allow time to soften and connect with our surrounds.

the accommodation at Lancemore Milawa
Bed down at Lancemore Milawa.

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Carla Grossetti
Carla Grossetti has written across print and digital for Australian Traveller and International Traveller for more than a decade and has spent more than two decades finding excuses to eat well and travel far. A prestigious News Corp cadetship launched her career at The Cairns Post, before a stint at The Canberra Times and The Sydney Morning Herald gave way to extended wanders through Canada, the US, Mexico, Central America, Asia and Europe. Carla was chief sub editor at delicious and has contributed to Good Food, Travel & Luxury, Explore Travel, Escape. While living in London, Carla was on staff at Condé Nast Traveller and The Sunday Times Travel desk and was part of the pioneering digital team at The Guardian UK.
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8 towns in Victoria’s Heartland that will delight your tastebuds

(Image: Visit Victoria)

    Jade Raykovski Jade Raykovski
    Get out of the city and close to nature in Victoria’s Heartland, one of Australia’s finest food-producing regions. 

    This fertile area is abundant in natural beauty, rich volcanic soils, mineral-rich waters, artisan producers and farm fresh produce. In towns spanning the Central Goldfields, Macedon Ranges and surrounds, just a short drive or easy train ride from Melbourne, you can taste a plethora of incredible food and world-class wine in these best of Victoria’s Heartland food regions. 

    1. Daylesford

    Lake House Restaurant, Daylesford
    Dine on the multi-course fare served at the elegant and light-filled Lake House Restaurant. (Credit: Visit Victoria)

    Warm and inviting, fans of Japanese cuisine should make a beeline for Kadota. Settle in for Japanese flavours, in cocktail glasses and on the plate, that have been carefully produced using seasonal local ingredients.

    For those who love a farm-to-table moment, Sault is the place to be. Fresh ingredients – directly from the restaurant’s kitchen gardens, or from regional organic farms and producers – are crafted into a delicious seasonal menu by Chef Hat-awarded Head Chef Jack Powlay.

    Boasting gorgeous water views from its location on the banks of Lake Daylesford, Boathouse Restaurant is perfect for an elevated dining experience.

    For a special treat, a visit to the two-chef-hatted restaurant at the Lake House is a must. Savour beautiful views and a seasonal menu championing small-scale local suppliers and their own farm just 10 minutes away. 

    2. Hepburn Springs

    If you're exploring Victoria food regions to visit, Surly Goat is one restaurant you won’t want to miss.
    Tuck into hearty, farm-fresh flavours. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Taking cues from its Swiss-Italian roots and the area’s produce, the picturesque Lavandula Farm houses a seasonal trattoria, rustic wine bar, and a new deli and larder inside the original Shepherd’s Flat Post Office. 

    For another dining destination immersed in the area’s history, visit The Hepburn Pavilion café at Hepburn Bathhouse. Brunch, lunch, scones and house-made cakes are served under the vaulted ceiling of this Edwardian heritage-listed building. 

    And while The Surly Goat may have a farm-like ring to it, it’s in fact a homely restaurant that takes seasonality seriously. Chef David Willcocks heads up an ever-changing set menu celebrating local and small-scale regenerative producers. 

    3. Trentham

    Add Sisko Chocolate to your list of Victoria food regions to visit for a sweet stop along the way.
    Satisfy your sweet cravings with handcrafted treats. (Image: Sisko Chocolate)

    No trip to an Aussie regional town is complete without a stop at the pub. Pig & Whistle Hotel sits surrounded by farmland. Soak it in from the locally beloved beer garden. Here, pub classics include a parmigiana with an Irish twist.  

    For a more refined experienced, dine at du Fermier, where chef and owner Annie Smithers crafts a weekly menu of French farmhouse-style dishes, often sourcing ingredients from her nearby farm in Lyonville. 

    And if you have a sweet tooth, don’t leave town without a cheeky stop at Sisko Chocolate Studio, where owner Christina Tantsis has built a chocolate-lovers wonderland inside a stunning architectural space. Her handcrafted creations use couverture from Valrhona, a certified B Corporation, and the hot chocolates are positively sinful. 

    4. Woodend

    Kuzu Izakaya in woodend, daylesford
    Taste incredible Japanese cuisine at Kuzu Izakaya.

    Taste local drops in town at the family-owned Woodend Cellar and Bar – complemented by tapas and artisan platters featuring sourdough from the local bakery – or at 600 Above, a wine bar with a sunny courtyard and cosy fireplace serving small and large plates.  

    Nearby, Kuzu Izakaya is the go-to place for Japanese dining. Chef Eriko Pannam has crafted a moreish menu of creative and traditional dishes; think miso cream scallops and everyone’s favourite, Japanese fried chicken. 

    Mount Macedon Winery is another must-visit for wine connoisseurs. Enjoy a glass and wood-fired pizza on the deck, or opt for fine dining at their Cellar Door Restaurant.

    5. Kyneton

    Piper Street in Kyneton is overflowing with top-notch eateries. Take Prato, specialising in traditional Greek dishes and pinsa (a lighter, crispier version of traditional pizza); or the upscale Midnight Starling, where chef Steve Rogers serves French classics inside a historic building with bluestone cellar. 

    A little further down, The Piper Street Wine Company is a European restaurant and wine bar inside a gorgeous heritage building. Their evolving menu highlights one European country or region at a time, so there’s always something new to discover. Further along, Fook Shing delivers a flavour-packed Southeast Asian menu using local and regional Victorian produce.

    6. Castlemaine

    Blue cheese from Long Paddock Cheese.
    Discover rich, creamy cheeses crafted by a certified cow’s milk artisan cheesemaker. (Image: Long Paddock Cheese)

    Cafes, bars and restaurants have taken up residence inside this former Gold Rush town’s historic buildings. At The Mill Castlemaine – an 1870s woollen mill turned creative hub – you’ll find Long Paddock Cheese, a small-scale artisan cheesemaker that uses certified-organic cow’s milk from a nearby family-owned farm; and Das Kaffeehaus, a Viennese cafe serving traditional Austrian food with coffee from their small batch roastery. 

    Meanwhile, inside the Midland Hotel you’ll find the chef-hatted Bar Midland, founded by locals Loudon Cooper and Alexander Marano. Their monthly set menu celebrates Victorian producers who focus on sustainable land management, and often utilises indigenous food, introduced wild animals and weeds.

    7. Lancefield & Romsey

    A flatlay of food from Lost Watering Hole.
    Savour beautifully plated dishes in a relaxed setting. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Art meets food and wine at Mount Monument, located just outside of Romsey. The beautiful vineyard is home to a sculpture park, cellar door and restaurant with a menu shaped by the Macedon Ranges’ rich seasonal produce.  

    In town, The 1860 Romsey has reimagined a 160-year-old hotel. Here, country pub charm meets modern bistro, with a menu that supports local at every opportunity (their Central Victorian Oakdale Black Angus steak is a winner).  

    A few minutes’ drive north, the Lost Watering Hole in Lancefield is a family-friendly brewery and restaurant crafting 100% naturally brewed beers. Their unusual names – No Dodo, Flightless, Big Roo – make sense once you learn Lancefield is the location of one of the richest deposits of megafauna fossils in Australia.

    8. Harcourt

    Lovely pastries from Hartcourt Produce & General Store.
    Treat yourself to buttery, house-made Danish pastries. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Harcourt is famous for its apple orchards and cider production, and there’s no better place to visit than The Little Red Apple. At this roadside store, you can stock up on fresh crisp apples, ciders, vinegars, juices, and other gourmet products. 

    To taste more local delights, pop into the Harcourt Produce & General Store, renowned for their house-made danishes, or stop at Sutton Grange Winery where winemaker Chris Smales crafts wines using their organically grown estate fruit. Open on Sundays, it’s an idyllic spot to slow down over wine, pizzas and share plates. 

    Start planning your next outdoor adventure at victoriasheartland.com.au.