Alba Thermal Springs: The newest stop in Mornington Peninsula

Diving into Alba Thermal Springs

From the outside, Alba’s sleek, slightly futuristic structure lends itself to being anything from a contemporary art gallery to the headquarters of a tech company. Entering the imposing building, I’m immediately enveloped in a wave of calm as I’m led to the changerooms equipped with lockers, showers and Dyson hairdryers.

After changing into a bikini, I slip on a plush, white robe and venture out into the open-air bathing area to begin the experience. There are only a few pools visible once I walk through the glass doors into the outdoor area but as the adage goes, looks can be deceiving. There are actually 31 therapeutic thermal springs and salt baths dispersed throughout the 15-hectare property’s sloping, landscaped native gardens.

Alba Thermal Springs The Falls pool at night

Day or night, The Falls is a stunning pool to relax in.

With a variety of pools heated to varying temperatures, I pool hop like goldilocks until I find the one that’s just right for me. At first, I join two women chilling out in The Falls, a showstopping pool surrounded by a halo of soft rain. I then wander up the path to try The Shell, a small, semi-enclosed cocoon-like pool with no one else in it. Further along, I find The Luna, a pretty, moon-shaped pool fringed by native bushland.

Alba Thermal Springs hemisphere the hide

Find cave-like pools to hide in.

Importantly, Alba is one of the few places where you can enjoy the freedom to relax in mobile phone-free peace. Prefer some privacy? There are also nine private pools you can book to bathe in seclusion, including an intimate rooftop salt pool for two and a spacious pool and deck perfect for small groups.

But it’s not all about bathing here. I love the endorphin boost that comes with getting hot and sweaty, so I make a beeline for The Hemisphere’s spacious sauna and steam rooms. After melting my muscles in the sauna, I follow up with a cleansing chaser of steam that leaves me with a rosy glow. On the way out, I sidestep a cold plunge pool with just one brave bather in it. One day I’ll work up the courage to try hot/cold immersion therapy, but that day is not today.

woman getting into a pool at Alba Thermal Springs

Choose from 31 therapeutic thermal springs and salt baths.

Thyme restaurant

Feeling peckish, the thought of leaving to find something to eat is unbearable. Thankfully, there’s no need to change back into the jeans and shirt I arrived in. At Thyme restaurant, wearing a robe and slippers is not only acceptable, it’s encouraged.

The all-day menu (created by award-winning Melbourne chef Karen Martini) features dishes that strike the perfect balance between nutritious and delicious. There’s a focus on light, fresh fare, with menu items like a humble chicken schnitzel sandwich elevated by clever ingredients like seeded panko, slaw, carrot zuni pickle and green chilli mayo.

Sure, you could order a salad or seasonal greens if you’re focused on clean eating, but there are also classic comfort foods like potato frites and gelato (and an impressive wine list of local drops) too. A coconut jelly and crème dessert with salted mango and zesty lime pearls is a real standout in a sea of winners – who knew spa dining could be this good?

Try the crab crumpet at Thyme.

Relaxing in Alba’s spa

From guided meditation to sauna infusion and qi gong, Alba has plenty of wellness activities on offer. For me, the ultimate wellbeing-booster is a post-lunch massage that’s so relaxing I almost drop off to sleep. Located at the top of a dramatic, oversized spiral staircase, the spa is a haven of tranquillity where staff speaking in hushed tones greet guests with a warm pot of Alba’s signature herbal tea.

Including all-day access to the geothermal pools and a one-hour massage in the spa, the Alba Artisan experience hits the spot for me but there’s everything from vichy showers to cryo facials and deluxe pedicures to choose from. Want to shed your old skin with some serious exfoliation? Try the Hammam Float experience. Feel like you need a total reset? Go all-in and book the Anahata Ritual to enjoy a body polish, clay wrap, scalp treatment, hydrating massage and facial, as well as all-day access to the pools. You won’t know yourself afterwards.

Emerging from the spa, I float downstairs without a care in the world. Turns out, stress doesn’t stand a chance against the rare combination of hot springs, good food and a spa session at Alba Thermal Springs & Spa.

spiral staircase at Alba Thermal Springs

Head up the staircase for the ultimate spa experience.

Located just an hour north-west of Melbourne, the largely undiscovered Macedon Ranges quietly pours some of Australia’s finest cool-climate wines and serves up some of Victoria’s best food.

Mention the Macedon Ranges and most people will think of day spas and mineral springs around Daylesford, cosy weekends away in the countryside or the famous Hanging Rock (of enigmatic picnic fame). Or they won’t have heard of the Macedon Ranges at all.

But this cool-climate destination has been inconspicuously building a profile as a high-quality food and wine region and is beginning to draw serious attention from oenophiles and epicureans alike.

The rise of Macedon Ranges wine

liquid gold barrels at Kyneton Ridge Estate Winery — Barrels of liquid gold at Kyneton Ridge Estate Winery. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

With elevations ranging from 300 to 800 metres, Macedon Ranges vineyards are among the highest in the country. This altitude, combined with significant day/night temperature swings, makes for a slow ripening season, in turn nurturing wines that embody elegance and structure. Think crisp chardonnays, subtle yet complex pinot noirs and delicate sparkling wines, along with niche varietals, such as gamay and nebbiolo.

Despite the region’s natural advantages – which vary from estate to estate, as each site embodies unique terroir depending on its position in relation to the Great Dividing Range, soil make-up and altitude – the Macedon Ranges has remained something of an insider’s secret. Unlike Victoria’s Yarra Valley or Mornington Peninsula, you won’t find large tour buses here and there’s no mass marketing drawing crowds.

Many of the 40-odd wineries are family-run operations with modest yields, meaning the wineries maintain a personal touch (if you visit a cellar door, you’ll likely chat to the owner or winemaker themselves) and a tight sales circle that often doesn’t go far beyond said cellar door. And that’s part of the charm.

Though wines from the Macedon Ranges are just starting to gain more widespread recognition in Australia, the first vines were planted in the 1860s, with a handful of operators then setting up business in the 1970s and ’80s. The industry surged again in the 1990s and early 2000s with the entry of wineries, such as Mount Towrong, which has an Italian slant in both its wine and food offering, and Curly Flat , now one of the largest estates.

Meet the new generation of local winemakers

the Clydesdale barn at Paramoor. — The Clydesdale barn at Paramoor. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Then, within the last 15 years, a new crop of vignerons like Andrew Wood at Kyneton Ridge Estate , whose vineyard in 2024 was the first in the Macedon Ranges to be certified by Sustainable Winegrowing Australia; Geoff Plahn and Samantha Reid at Paramoor , who have an impressive cellar door with a roaring fire and studded leather couches in an old Clydesdale barn; and Ollie Rapson and Renata Morello at Lyons Will , who rapidly expanded a small vineyard to focus on top-shelf riesling, gamay, pinot noir and chardonnay, have taken ownership of local estates.

Going back to the early days, Llew Knight’s family was one of the pioneers of the 1970s, replacing sheep with vines at Granite Hills when the wool industry dwindled. Knight is proud of the fact that all their wines are made with grapes from their estate, including a light, peppery shiraz (some Macedon wineries purchase fruit from nearby warmer areas, such as Heathcote, particularly to make shiraz) and a European-style grüner veltliner. And, as many other wineries in the region do, he relies on natural acid for balance, rather than an additive, which is often required in warmer regions. “It’s all about understanding and respecting your climate to get the best out of your wines,” he says.

farm animals atKyneton Ridge Estate — Curious residents at Kyneton Ridge Estate. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Throughout the Macedon Ranges, there’s a growing focus on sustainability and natural and low-intervention wines, with producers, such as Brian Martin at Hunter Gatherer making waves in regenerative viticulture. Martin previously worked in senior roles at Australia’s largest sparkling winemaking facility, and now applies that expertise and his own nous to natural, hands‑off, wild-fermented wines, including pét‑nat, riesling and pinot noir. “Wild fermentation brings more complexity,” he says. “Instead of introducing one species of yeast, you can have thousands and they add different characteristics to the wine.”

the vineyard at Kyneton Ridge Estate Winery — The estate’s vineyard, where cool-climate grapes are grown. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Most producers also focus on nurturing their grapes in-field and prune and pick by hand, thus avoiding the introduction of impurities and the need to meddle too much in the winery. “The better the quality of the fruit, the less you have to interfere with the natural winemaking process,” says Wood.

Given the small yields, there’s also little room for error, meaning producers place immense focus on quality. “You’re never going to compete in the middle [in a small region] – you’ve got to aim for the top,” says Curly Flat owner Jeni Kolkka. “Big wineries try to do things as fast as possible, but we’re in no rush,” adds Troy Walsh, owner and winemaker at Attwoods . “We don’t use commercial yeasts; everything is hand-harvested and everything is bottled here, so we bottle only when we’re ready, not when a big truck arrives.” That’s why, when you do see a Macedon Ranges product on a restaurant wine list, it’s usually towards the pointy end.

Come for the wine, stay for the food

pouring sauce onto a dish at Lake HouseDaylesford — Dining at Lake House Daylesford is a treat. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

If wine is the quiet achiever of the Macedon Ranges, then food is its not-so-secret weapon. In fact, the area has more hatted restaurants than any other region in Victoria. A pioneer of the area’s gourmet food movement is region cheerleader Alla Wolf-Tasker, culinary icon and founder of Daylesford’s Lake House.

For more than three decades, Wolf-Tasker has championed local producers and helped define what regional fine dining can look like in Australia. Her influence is palpable, not just in the two-hatted Lake House kitchen, but in the broader ethos of the region’s dining scene, as a wave of high-quality restaurants have followed her lead to become true destination diners.

the Midnight Starling restaurant in Kyneton Ridge Estate Winery — The hatted Midnight Starling restaurant is located in Kyneton. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

It’s easy to eat well, whether at other hatted restaurants, such as Midnight Starling in the quaint town of Kyneton, or at the wineries themselves, like Le Bouchon at Attwoods, where Walsh is inspired by his time working in France in both his food offering and winemaking.

The beauty of dining and wine touring in the Macedon Ranges is that it feels intimate and unhurried. You’re likely to meet the winemaker, hear about the trials of the latest vintage firsthand, and taste wines that never make it to city shelves. And that’s worth getting out of the city for – even if it is just an hour down the road.

Delicate dishes on the menu at Midnight Starling. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

the accommodation at Cleveland Estate, Macedon Ranges — Stay at the Cleveland Estate. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Soak up vineyard views from Cleveland Estate near Lancefield , embrace retro charm at Kyneton Springs Motel or indulge in lakeside luxury at the Lake House .

Eating there

Enjoy a four-course menu at the one-hatted Surly Goat in Hepburn Springs, Japanese-inspired fare at Kuzu in Woodend or unpretentious fine dining at Mount Monument , which also has a sculpture park.

Drinking there

wine tasting at PassingClouds Winery, Macedon Ranges — A tasting at Passing Clouds Winery. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Settle in for a tasting at Boomtown in Castlemaine, sample local drops at the cosy Woodend Cellar & Bar or wine-hop around the many cellar doors, such as Passing Clouds .

the Boomtown Winery and Cellar Bar signage — Boomtown Winery and Cellar Bar. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Playing there

a scenic river in Castlemaine — Idyllic scenes at Castlemaine. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

Wander through the seasonal splendour of Forest Glade Gardens , hike to the summit of Hanging Rock, or stroll around the tranquil Sanatorium Lake.

purple flowers hanging from a tree — Purple flowers hanging from a tree. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)

The newest hot springs making gentle waves on the Mornington Peninsula

Find geothermal bathing, heavenly spa treatments and seriously good all-day dining all in one place on Victoria’s bush-fringed coast.

Diving into Alba Thermal Springs

Thyme restaurant

Relaxing in Alba’s spa

The details

This is Mornington Peninsula’s most indulgent itinerary

Mornington Peninsula’s storied past: war, shipwrecks and a runaway convict

This Mornington Peninsula glamping stay is an all-round wellness experience

Victoria’s newest mineral springs bathhouse now has luxury villas to match

The Macedon Ranges is Victoria’s best-kept food and wine secret