The newest hot springs making gentle waves on the Mornington Peninsula

Jo StewartBy Jo Stewart
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Find geothermal bathing, heavenly spa treatments and seriously good all-day dining all in one place on Victoria’s bush-fringed coast.

Feeling a bit ‘meh’? Forget travelling overseas to a wellness retreat in a far-flung destination when there’s a way to restore your wellbeing closer to home. Enter Alba Thermal Springs & Spa , Victoria’s newest hot springs, located in the laidback Mornington Peninsula.

Bathing in geothermal springs surrounded by the wild beauty of nature is a centuries-old ritual practised by people all over the world. Sure, soaking in mineral-rich water helps to relieve stress, fatigue and muscle aches, but it also feels damn good to float in a warm pool while watching the clouds above. Add a sublime spa treatment, nourishing lunch (and perhaps a cheeky glass of wine?) and you’ve got yourself a one-way ticket to paradise.

Alba Thermal Springs Forest Pool
Bathe in geothermal springs surrounded by wild beauty.

Diving into Alba Thermal Springs

From the outside, Alba’s sleek, slightly futuristic structure lends itself to being anything from a contemporary art gallery to the headquarters of a tech company. Entering the imposing building, I’m immediately enveloped in a wave of calm as I’m led to the changerooms equipped with lockers, showers and Dyson hairdryers.

After changing into a bikini, I slip on a plush, white robe and venture out into the open-air bathing area to begin the experience. There are only a few pools visible once I walk through the glass doors into the outdoor area but as the adage goes, looks can be deceiving. There are actually 31 therapeutic thermal springs and salt baths dispersed throughout the 15-hectare property’s sloping, landscaped native gardens.

Alba Thermal Springs The Falls pool at night
Day or night, The Falls is a stunning pool to relax in.

With a variety of pools heated to varying temperatures, I pool hop like goldilocks until I find the one that’s just right for me. At first, I join two women chilling out in The Falls, a showstopping pool surrounded by a halo of soft rain. I then wander up the path to try The Shell, a small, semi-enclosed cocoon-like pool with no one else in it. Further along, I find The Luna, a pretty, moon-shaped pool fringed by native bushland.

Alba Thermal Springs hemisphere the hide
Find cave-like pools to hide in.

Importantly, Alba is one of the few places where you can enjoy the freedom to relax in mobile phone-free peace. Prefer some privacy? There are also nine private pools you can book to bathe in seclusion, including an intimate rooftop salt pool for two and a spacious pool and deck perfect for small groups.

But it’s not all about bathing here. I love the endorphin boost that comes with getting hot and sweaty, so I make a beeline for The Hemisphere’s spacious sauna and steam rooms. After melting my muscles in the sauna, I follow up with a cleansing chaser of steam that leaves me with a rosy glow. On the way out, I sidestep a cold plunge pool with just one brave bather in it. One day I’ll work up the courage to try hot/cold immersion therapy, but that day is not today.

woman getting into a pool at Alba Thermal Springs
Choose from 31 therapeutic thermal springs and salt baths.

Thyme restaurant

Feeling peckish, the thought of leaving to find something to eat is unbearable. Thankfully, there’s no need to change back into the jeans and shirt I arrived in. At Thyme restaurant, wearing a robe and slippers is not only acceptable, it’s encouraged.

The all-day menu (created by award-winning Melbourne chef Karen Martini) features dishes that strike the perfect balance between nutritious and delicious. There’s a focus on light, fresh fare, with menu items like a humble chicken schnitzel sandwich elevated by clever ingredients like seeded panko, slaw, carrot zuni pickle and green chilli mayo.

Sure, you could order a salad or seasonal greens if you’re focused on clean eating, but there are also classic comfort foods like potato frites and gelato (and an impressive wine list of local drops) too. A coconut jelly and crème dessert with salted mango and zesty lime pearls is a real standout in a sea of winners – who knew spa dining could be this good?

crab crumpet at Thyme restaurant
Try the crab crumpet at Thyme.

Relaxing in Alba’s spa

From guided meditation to sauna infusion and qi gong, Alba has plenty of wellness activities on offer. For me, the ultimate wellbeing-booster is a post-lunch massage that’s so relaxing I almost drop off to sleep. Located at the top of a dramatic, oversized spiral staircase, the spa is a haven of tranquillity where staff speaking in hushed tones greet guests with a warm pot of Alba’s signature herbal tea.

Including all-day access to the geothermal pools and a one-hour massage in the spa, the Alba Artisan experience hits the spot for me but there’s everything from vichy showers to cryo facials and deluxe pedicures to choose from. Want to shed your old skin with some serious exfoliation? Try the Hammam Float experience. Feel like you need a total reset? Go all-in and book the Anahata Ritual to enjoy a body polish, clay wrap, scalp treatment, hydrating massage and facial, as well as all-day access to the pools. You won’t know yourself afterwards.

Emerging from the spa, I float downstairs without a care in the world. Turns out, stress doesn’t stand a chance against the rare combination of hot springs, good food and a spa session at Alba Thermal Springs & Spa.

spiral staircase at Alba Thermal Springs
Head up the staircase for the ultimate spa experience.

The details

You’ll find Alba Thermal Springs & Spa in the Mornington Peninsula town of Fingal, a 90-minute drive south of Melbourne Airport.

No such thing as too much relaxation? Discover the best natural spa baths around Australia.

Jo Stewart
Jo Stewart is a freelance features writer who pens stories about nature, pop culture, music, art, design and more from her home in the Macedon Ranges of Victoria. When not writing, you can find her trawling through vinyl records and vintage fashion at op shops, antique stores and garage sales.
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How a $1 deal saved Bendigo’s historic tramways

    Megan ArkinstallBy Megan Arkinstall
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    The passionate community that saved Bendigo Tramways has kept the story of this city alive for generations.

    It was an absolute steal: a fleet of 23 trams for just $1. But such a fortunate purchase didn’t happen easily. It was 1972 when the Bendigo Trust handed over a single buck for the city’s historic collection of battery, steam and electric trams, which had transported locals since 1890.

    inside the historic Bendigo Tram
    Bendigo Tramways is a historic transport line turned tourist service. (Image: Bendigo Heritage)

    The city’s tram network had been declared defunct since 1970 due to post-war shortages in materials to upkeep the trams and declining passenger numbers as motor vehicles were increasing. However, determined locals would not hear of their beloved trams being sold off around the world.

    The Bendigo Trust was enlisted to preserve this heritage, by converting the trams into a tourist service. The Victorian government approved a trial, however news spread that the Australian Electric Tramways Museum in Adelaide had acquired one of the streetcars for its collection.

    a tram heading to Quarry Hill in 1957
    A tram on its way to Quarry Hill in 1957. (Image: Bendigo Heritage)

    An impassioned group rallied together to make this physically impossible. Breaking into the tram sheds, they welded iron pipes to the rails, removed carbon brushes from the motors, and formed a blockade at the depot. The community response was extraordinary, and a $1 deal was sealed.

    A new chapter for the city’s fleet

    the old Tramways Depot and Workshop
    The old Tramways Depot and Workshop is one of the stops on the hop-on, hop-off service. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Today, Bendigo Tramways welcomes some 40,000 passengers annually, operating as a hop-on, hop-off touring service aboard the restored trams. Fifteen of the now 45-strong fleet are dubbed ‘Talking Trams’ because of the taped commentary that is played along the route. The trams loop between Central Deborah Gold Mine and the Bendigo Joss House Temple, which has been a place of Chinese worship since 1871, via other sites including the old Tramways Depot and Workshop.

    a Gold Mine Bendigo Tram
    The fleet comprises 45 trams that have been restored. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

    Keeping things interesting, throughout the year visitors can step aboard different themed trams. Tram No. 302 becomes the Yarn Bomb Tram, decorated both inside and out with colourful crochet by an anonymous group of locals.

    During the festive season, Tram No. 15 operates as a tinsel-festooned Santa Tram, and the big man himself hides out somewhere along the route for excited children to find. And on selected dates, the adults-only Groove Tram runs nighttime tours of the city, accompanied by local musicians playing live tunes and a pop-up bar.

    the historic post office turned visitor centre in Bendigo
    Visitors can hop on and off to see the city’s sites such as the historic post office turned visitor centre. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    As well as preserving the city’s history, however, the continuation of the tram service has kept the skills of tram building and craftsmanship alive in a practical sense. Bendigo’s Heritage Rail Workshop is world-renowned for restoring heritage trams and repurposing vehicles in creative ways.

    Locally, for example, Tram No. 918 was transformed into the Dja Dja Wurrung Tram with original Aboriginal artworks by emerging artist Natasha Carter, with special commentary and music that shares the stories and traditions of Bendigo’s first people. You can’t put a price on preserving history. Nonetheless, it was a dollar very well spent.