Victoria’s secret: 5 easy Phillip Island road trips you should know

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Phillip Island is a peaceful refuge, known for its flora and fauna – think penguins and fur seals – as well as its mesmerising sunsets, fantastic surfing, romantic dining and outdoor adventures on land or at sea.

A road trip doesn’t have to be a long trip. On Victoria’s Phillip Island, the answer to the perennial, “Are we there yet?" question is usually, “Yes, we are!"

Cape Woolamai Walk, Phillip Island, VIC, Australia
Phillip Island is a peaceful refuge known for its flora and fauna.

It packs so much into its 101 square kilometres, you’ll be hopping in and out of the car for hours, and even days on end, to see seals, koalas and, of course, penguins. You can surf, swim or just saunter at uncrowded beaches, and taste everything from succulent seafood to local wines. And there are modern and ancient history lessons, too.

Cape Woolamai Walk, Phillip Island
Victoria’s Phillip Island packs so much into its 101 square kilometres.

Phillip Island is a great destination to visit, whether as a weekender down from Melbourne or as part of the great around-Australia drive. Here are five easy road trips on the island that cover so many of the attractions and, once out of the car, there’s plenty to see and do on foot, too.

Road Trip, Phillip Island, VIC, Australia
Road trips on Phillip island can cover so many attractions.

1. San Remo to Churchill Island

San Remo sits at the mainland end of the bridge onto the island, and it’s a good spot to break the drive if you’ve come down from Melbourne or across from Gippsland. It has a fisherman’s co-op, which means two things: the freshest seafood – including great fish and chips – and pelicans, which are fed daily at noon on the foreshore next to the bridge.

Fish and chips at San Remo Fishermans Co-op, Destination during a Phillip Island Roadtrip, Gippsland, VIC, Australia
Dig into the freshest plate of fish and chips at the fisherman’s co-op.

Once you’ve crossed onto the island, stop by the Visitor Information Centre for maps, brochures, ideas and indispensable local knowledge. It’s only five kilometres to Churchill Island, but you might be waylaid at the Phillip Island Chocolate Factory in Newhaven. Give yourself an hour for the tour into Panny’s Amazing World of Chocolate, where even your entry ticket is edible, or just drop into the cafe and shop for a hot chocolate and treats to take home, from boxed selections to a mega three-kilogram chocolate bar.

Hot chocolate at Phillip Island Chocolate Factory, Gippsland, VIC, Australia
Drop by the cafe for some hot chocolate and treats to take home.

Turn right just past the Chocolate Factory for Churchill Island where the working farm – on land first walked by the Boonwurrung/Bunurong people – was established in the 1850s. Many buildings from the 19th century still dot the 57-hectare island, where you can see displays of milking, shearing, working dogs, blacksmithing and whip-cracking. There’s a wetlands walk, and the picturesque cafe is open for late breakfasts and lunch.

A Family at Churchill Island, on a roadtrip to Phillip Island, Gippsland, VIC, Australia
The working farm in Churchill Island was established in the 1850s.

2. Newhaven to Rhyll

You’ve got two things to do right from the start in Newhaven. Take a scenic flight from the airport with Phillip Island Helicopters and then drop into the National Vietnam Veterans Museum. This engaging facility, run by volunteers, has countless interpretive displays of Australia’s involvement in war, from tanks and aircraft down to the balls used in the controversial conscription ballots.

Red wine being poured onto glass, Purple Hen Winery, Phillip Island, Gippsland, VIC, Australia
Taste the specialty wines at Purple Hen Wines.

Just out of town, look for a small road on the left to the Forrest Caves, a series of dramatic coastal formations visible at low tide.

 

As you continue along the main road of Phillip Island, you’ll soon see a sign to Purple Hen Wines, one of two wineries on the island. It specialises in pinot noir and shiraz, plus red and white sparkling wines. Back on the road, you’ll be in Rhyll in no time; the tranquil village is located on a protected inlet with a lovely boardwalk through the mangroves. You can follow that boardwalk and enjoy lunch at Wild Food Farm and Cafe, a showcase for native herbs, spices, fruits and berries. Try a wattleseed scone, or perhaps a pepperberry beef pie or even Davidson plum jam with your barramundi. The farm store also sells a huge selection of products inspired by native ingredients, such as dukkah and spiced bush tomato relish and a Davidson plum syrup.

Lunch spread, Wild Food Farm and Cafe, Phillip Island, VIC, Australia
Wild Food Farm & Cafe showcases native herbs, spices, fruits and berries.

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3. Cowes Pier to Nobbies

Cowes is the central hub of Phillip Island, a town with a holiday vibe servicing your shopping and dining needs and offering a range of accommodation. For coffee and brunch, head to casual cafes such as M&O Cafe and Tapas, The Waterboy Cafe and Island Whole Foods, which will please proponents of a plant-based diet.

 

Cowes has kilometres of north-facing beach, so do make a booking at beachfront restaurants such as Beach HQ or Hotel Phillip Island. The drinks list at Grenache Wine Bar includes more than 100 gins so it’s your go-to for a pre-dinner G+T before settling in for Pino’s Trattoria for pane all’aglio (garlic bread) and spaghetti arrabbiata followed by a scoop of gelato at Isola di Capri.

 

Hire an e-bike for a spin around town from Super Cruzer, or spend time on the water with Wildlife Coast Cruises.

Wildlife Coast Cruises, Phillip Island, Australia
Spend some time on the water with Wildlife Coast Cruises.

Just south of Cowes is a pair of wonderful family attractions: A Maze’N Things, with its wacky maze, illusions and puzzles, and the neighbouring Koala Conservation Reserve with its two treetop boardwalks for close encounters, plus wallabies and other wildlife on its easily accessible bushland trails. Across the road is the Rusty Water Brewery Restaurant and Bar, home to a great variety of Phillip Island brews.

Rusty Water Brewery and Restaurant, Phillip Island, Victoria, Australia
There’s a variety of Phillip Island brews to try at Rusty Water Brewery.

South-west from Cowes, it’s an easy 15-kilometre drive to the most rugged and spectacular part of the island, the western tip known as The Nobbies. On the way down, check out the amazing range of products at The Store. At The Nobbies, the cliffside boardwalk gets you up close to these distinctive rocks and you can look beyond to Seal Rocks, home to the country’s largest colony of Australian fur seals. For a more immersive experience, take a virtual voyage through the Southern Ocean, one of many amazing interactive encounters on offer at Antarctic Journey.

Seal Rocks, Phillip Island, Gippsland, VIC, Australia
See the country’s largest colony of Australian fur seals at Seal Rocks.

We’re not ignoring the world-famous Penguin Parade that you pass just before you arrive at The Nobbies; it’s an evening show, and one like no other.

Penguin sighting at the Underground Nature Parks, Phillip Island, Gippsland, VIC, Australia
Don’t miss the daily parade of little penguins.

4. North to South Loop

From the top of Phillip Island to the bottom and back mightn’t look too far, but you’ll need hours to take in every bit of adventure and nature along the way. Head south-west from Cowes through Ventnor and follow the Newhaven road before turning south to remote Kitty Miller Bay, where you’ll see remnants of the SS Speke, shipwrecked in 1906.

 

If beachcombing has given you an appetite, there’s a broad menu at Phillip Island Winery, supported by great summer varieties such as prosecco and rosé.

Pyramid Rock, Walking, Phillip Island, VIC, Australia
If you’re keen on a good walk, there is a track linking to Berry Beach.

The day’s third coastal highlight is Pyramid Rock, a distinctive formation best viewed from the lookout at the tip of the cape. (If you’re keen on a good walk, there is a track linking to Berry Beach.)

 

On non-event days, Phillip Island Grand Prix Circuit is still an arresting sight, because of the way the track dips and twists towards the ocean, making it one of the most exciting circuits in Australia. And you can get a feel of what it’s like yourself on a 750-metre-long track with Phillip Island Go Karts.

Go Karting, Phillip Island Grand Prix Circuit, in Phillip Island
Phillip Island Grand Prix Circuit is one of the most exciting circuits in Australia.

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5. Smiths Beach to San Remo

Smiths Beach is one of the most diverse beaches on the south coast, offering everything from rock pools for paddling in to surf breaks rated as some of the most beginner-friendly in Victoria. If that appeals, Island Surf School can get you started.

 

There are plenty of other board-riding spots to inspect all the way around to Cape Woolamai, although that’s a break best left to experienced surfers. Instead, explore the scenic Cape Woolamai wonderland on foot. Park at the surf club and follow the loop track off the southern end of the beach down to the cape, where’ll you’ll see everything from wallabies to migratory shearwaters, and maybe even whales in winter.

Cape Woolamai Drift Boat Ocean Adventures, Phillip Island, Australia
There are plenty of other board-riding spots to inspect all the way around to Cape Woolamai.

Soon you’ll be back to San Remo, but maybe only after a meal at the Saltwater restaurant in Newhaven, which juts out right on the jetty and boasts 270-degree waterfront views. If you want one last thrill, Ocean Adventures in San Remo can take you diving, snorkelling on a sea scooter or drifting in a jetboat. Just leave some energy for the drive home.

Roadtripping at Phillip Island, Victoria, Australia
Don’t forget to leave some energy for the drive home.

Want more?

How do they fit all of this in 101 square kilometres, you may ask? Well, there’s even more to see and do, so go to visitphillipisland.com.au

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This scenic Victorian region is the perfect antidote to city life

    Craig Tansley Craig Tansley

    Video credit: Visit Victoria/Tourism Australia

    The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

    There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd. In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.

    Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.

    ‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.

    Exchanging city chaos for country calm

    kangaroos near Halls Gap, Grampians National Park
    The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

    I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.

    I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.

    The trails and treasures of the Grampians

    sunrise at Grampians National Park /Gariwerd
    Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)

    Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.

    Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles. I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.

    walking through a cave, Hollow Mountain
    Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)

    There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail, Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.

    Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.

    “There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.

    wildflowers in Grampians National Park
    Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.

    Grampians National Park at sunset
    Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)

    The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.

    What else is on offer in The Grampians?

    a boat travelling along the Wimmera River inDimboola
    Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)

    You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.

    And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).

    dining at Pomonal Estate
    Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.

    The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.

    Salingers of Great Western
    Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)

    There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.

    The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.

    Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.

    And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.

    Kookaburras on a tree
    Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)

    You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Staying there

    Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity.

    Playing there

    abseiling down Hollow Mountain
    Hollow Mountain is a popular abseiling site.

    Go abseiling under the stars or join a guided hike with Absolute Outdoors. Visit Wama, Australia’s first environmental art centre. Check out Dimboola’s eccentric Imaginarium.

    Eating there

    steak, naan bread and beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap serves a great steak on naan bread.

    Eat world-class cuisine at Pomonal Estate. Dine and stay at much-revered icon Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. The ‘steak on naan’ at Halls Gap brewhouse Paper Scissors Rock, can’t be beat.

    Dunkeld Arboretum in Grampians National Park
    The serene Dunkeld Arboretum.

    For Halls Gap’s best breakfasts head to Livefast Cafe. Sip local wines at Great Western’s historic wineries, Best’s Wines, Seppelt Wines and Norton Estate Wines.

    two glasses of beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Sink a cold one at Paper Scissors Rock.