Guide to slowing down in the Yarra Valley And Dandenong Ranges

There’s no better place to unwind than the Yarra Valley and Dandenong Ranges – a leafy and idyllic region shrouded in mist, fern-filled gullies and a peaceful atmosphere.

Wrapped in the crisp mountain air, ancient ferns and ethereally verdant landscapes of the Yarra Valley and Dandenong Ranges , you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re in another world (or at least another part of the planet).

But this gorgeous pocket is under an hour from Melbourne, a mix of top-notch food and wine, boutique stays and forested scenery that make for an easy weekend away or even a midweek escape. In fact, visiting during the week can offer a deeply relaxing experience, with fewer crowds and more space to linger.

If you’re keen to unwind, here’s how to spend your time in this idyllic neck of the woods.

Where to eat

From farm gates to cosy eateries, the Yarra Valley and Dandenong Ranges house a plethora of places to feast. Start your day with a leisurely brunch and coffee at Ripe . This local hangout combines warm hospitality and hearty cafe fare against a backdrop of the hills’ iconic tree-fern canopies. It’s also nestled in the heart of Sassafras, the quaint village that best captures the Dandenong Ranges’ old-world charm.

Next, take yourself on a gastronomic adventure. Visit Yarra Valley Dairy , a regional favourite doing handmade cheeses, or Cherry Hill Orchards , where in summer you can pick your own cherries and enjoy them in the farm’s picturesque grounds. Treat yourself to a tasting at one of the Yarra Valley’s renowned wineries to finish – Rochford , Re’em and De Bortoli are standout picks for a sample of the region’s signature drops.

By night, book a table at either Citrine in the mountain town of Olinda or restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate in the Yarra Valley. Both do elevated seasonal fare paired with excellent drinks.

And if you’re simply in the mood for a tipple, you’re spoiled for choice. The Alpine Hotel in riverside Warburton is a historic and character-filled spot pouring pints and locally made drinks, while Four Pillars is a must for gin lovers. The distillery’s award-winning spirits are famed nationwide, but here you can try them right from the source.

Things to do outdoors

two people walking through Dandenong Ranges National Park — Wander the Dandenong Ranges National Park.

A motley patchwork of misty rainforest, rugged bushscapes and beautifully tended gardens, the Yarra Valley and Dandenong Ranges are some of Melbourne’s most scenic pockets. No visit to the region would be complete without a wander through its lush surrounds, either by bike or on foot.

The Ngurrak Barring trail stretches 39 kilometres through the Dandenong Ranges, connecting the towns and fern-filled forests that make the hills so unique. Along the way, be immersed in thought-provoking art installations and cultural stories, sharing a different perspective of this ancient landscape.

While in the area, wander through Cloudehill Garden & Nursery and the Dandenong Ranges Botanic Gardens , situated in Olinda. The cooler climate, rich volcanic soil and consistent rainfall offer both gardens ideal conditions for vivid and vibrant flora.

Over in the Yarra Valley, the 40-kilometre Lilydale to Warburton Rail Trail is a flat and family-friendly path perfect for leisurely bike rides and longer walks. It takes you through vine-lined scenery and towns like Seville and Wandin. Biking enthusiasts should head to the Warburton Mountain Bike Destination, a network of 160 kilometres of trails that traverse through untamed terrain.

For a more laidback outing, Alowyn Gardens encompasses seven acres of themed gardens perfect for a meandering stroll. The nearly 100-metre-long wisteria archway that connects different garden zones is a highlight – especially in October, when the lilac blossoms are in spectacular bloom.

The arts and culture scene

Yarra Valley and the Dandenong Ranges are havens for arts and culture thanks to their inspiring landscapes and thriving creative community. Naturally, a slower escape should include a visit to some of the region’s best studios and galleries.

The TarraWarra Museum of Art in Healesville showcases modern and contemporary Australian art, with both a permanent collection and a rotating display of thoughtful exhibitions. The building and grounds are well worth exploring: a striking architectural landmark amid landscaped lawns and open-air sculptures overlooking the Yarra Valley.

Delve into the area’s rich history at the Yarra Ranges Regional Museum , a treasure trove of more than 13,000 unique pieces. See everything from Indigenous artefacts to archival photographs and historical objects that tell the region’s story.

On your way back to the city, stop by the leafy enclave of Eltham to discover Montsalvat . This five-acre artistic playground is Australia’s oldest continuous art community, combining galleries, Gothic-style buildings and expansive heritage gardens.

Stay at a local retreat

Re’em yarra valley accommodation — Re’em is an ideal pick for an indulgent stay.

No matter your style, and no matter your budget, you’ll find a suitable spot in the region to rest your head. If the weather is warm and the sky is clear, set up a tent at BIG4 Yarra Valley Park Lane Holiday Park or Pine Hill Cabin & Caravan Park. The former has secluded camping spots surrounded by tranquil bushland and local wildlife, along with glamping pods and cabins. The latter has powered and unpowered sites suitable for all kinds of campers, and is pet-friendly if you’re travelling with your four-legged friend.

Or, book yourself into the RACV Healesville Country Club & Resort – a sprawling retreat complete with stylish rooms and luxe amenities that invite you to unwind. Relax at the day spa, tee off at the 18-hole golf course, or recharge with a round of tennis or a few laps in the pool.

And if you’re after something truly indulgent, Re’em is an ideal pick. A boutique collection of just 16, the luxuriously appointed rooms feature plush linens, high-end amenities and oversized baths with panoramic views across the estate. A gourmet breakfast showcasing gorgeous local produce is also included.

Start planning your reset getaway at visityarravalley.com.au.

Makers, bakers, artists, chefs, crafters – Ballarat and its surrounds are overflowing with creative spirits. All dedicated to keeping traditional skills alive for a city that is humming with artful energy.

Modern makers: a new generation of artists and artisans

“Keeping craft alive is a noble cause,” says Jess Cameron-Wootten, a charming and passionate master leathercrafter and cordwainer, who handmakes traditional leather boots and shoes in Ballarat’s old Gun Cotton Goods Store.

Ballarat was recognised in 2019 as a UNESCO Creative City of Craft and Folk Art, and today it’s a place where craft traditions converge with contemporary needs. Nothing quite captures this convergence as a visit to Wootten , the workshop and store of Jess Cameron-Wootten and his partner Krystina Menegazzo.

heritage buildings in Ballarat — Ballarat’s streets are lined with heritage buildings. (Image: Matt Dunne)

Jess’s father was an artisan bootmaker, or cordwainer. Now Jess and Krys and their small team of artisans continue the tradition, but with a modern spin. The company’s boots and shoes, made completely from scratch, are renowned for their quality and longevity. Wootten also craft shoes, bags, belts, leather aprons, wallets and more.

Cosy beanies, gloves, alpaca socks, “unbreakable” shoelaces and various other goods – many from local craftspeople and small-scale makers – fill the shop’s shelves. “We’re always happy to support a mate,” says Jess. “People love to see the workshop and where things are made. Our clients care about quality and sustainability,” Krys comments. The company slogan ‘Made for generations’ says it all.

Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery. (Image: Tara Moore)

For Ruby Pilven, craft is also in the DNA – both her parents were potters and with her latest porcelain ceramics, Ruby’s young daughter has been helping add colour to the glazes. “I grew up watching my parents in the workshop – I’ve always been doing ceramics,” she says, although her Visual Arts degree was in printmaking. That printmaking training comes through particularly in the rich layering of pattern. Her audacious colour, unexpected shapes and sudden pops of 12-carat gold are contemporary, quirky – and joyful.

You can see Ruby’s handcrafted ceramics, and work by other local and regional artists, at Ross Creek Gallery , a light-filled space surrounded by serene bushland, across from the mudbrick house her parents built in the 1980s. A 10-minute drive from Ballarat, it’s a tangible link to the region’s well-established craft traditions.

How Ballarat is preserving the past

artisans making crafts at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat — The Centre for Rare Arts & Forgotten Trades holds workshops to preserve crafts and skills.

While tradition is ongoing, there’s a danger that many of these specific type of skills and knowledge are fading as an older generation passes on. Step forward the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades .

The seven purpose-built studios occupy a fabulous modern building adjacent to Sovereign Hill, with state-of-the-art facilities, enormous windows and landscape views across to Warrenheip and Wadawurrung Country.

artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat — Check out artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.

Practising artisans run hands-on workshops. Fancy making your own medieval armour? Or trying your hand at blacksmithing, spinning wool, plaiting leather, weaving cane or craft a knife? Book a class and learn how. “It’s about creating awareness and also sharing knowledge and skills before they are lost,” explains Deborah Klein, the centre manager.

A city steeped in food and flavours

Chef José Fernandez preparing American streetfood at Pancho — Chef José Fernandez creates vibrant South American street food at Pancho. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

One skill that hasn’t been lost is that of cooking. Ballarat’s burgeoning gastronomy scene runs the gamut from an artisan bakery (the atmospheric 1816 Bakehouse) to cool coffee shops, speakeasy cocktail bars and distilleries to fine-dining venues. But I’m still surprised to find Pancho , José Fernandez’s South American street food restaurant, serving fried cheese tequeños, fiery fish tacos, Argentinian grilled chicken.

The room is as lively as the food – a whirl of colour filled with gifted and thrifted paintings, photos, tchotchkes (trinkets), plants. There’s a Mexican abuela aesthetic going on here. Even before the music and mezcal kick in, it’s fun. Heads up on the drinks menu – an authentic selection of mezcal, tequila, South American wines and Mexican cerveza.

a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits, Ballarat — Enjoy a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

The spirit is willing, so after lunch we head towards the gold rush-era Ballarat train station and across the line to the old 1860s Goods Shed for Itinerant Spirits . At one end, a massive German copper still looms behind a wall of glass. The fit-out embraces deep olive-green tones, original bluestone walls, steamer trunks as coffee tables, heritage timber floors, oversized lamp shades and cognac-hued modernist leather seating.

the Itinerant Spirits Distillery & Cocktail Bar, Ballarat — The distillery operates from an old goods shed. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Gallivanter Gin, Vansetter Vodka and Wayfarer Whiskey – the key spirits distilled – star at the bar. The spirits are crafted using grains from the Wimmera Mallee region, and native botanicals foraged in the Grampians. Seasonal cocktails are inspired by local people and places (I loved The Headland, inspired by Sovereign Hill and flavoured with old-fashioned raspberry drops). Sample the spirits, and join a cocktail masterclass or a distillery tour. It’s a seductive setting – you’ll likely find yourself ordering a charcuterie platter or pizza as the evening progresses.

The Ballarat stay combining history and luxury

one of the rooms at Hotel Vera, Ballarat — The rooms at Hotel Vera have a contemporary style. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

New lives for old buildings keeps history alive. Vera, Ballarat’s boutique five-star hotel, has taken it to the next level: it’s a palimpsest, a subtle layering of early 1900s and 1930s Art Deco architecture with a sleek new wing. There are seven spacious suites, each a dramatically different colour, with designer chairs, blissful bathrooms. High-end pottery and hand-picked artworks imbue the spaces with personality.

Vera’s intimate, award-winning restaurant, Babae, is subtly theatrical with sheer drapes and gallery lighting, its bespoke timber furniture and brass-edged marble bench setting the stage for food with a sharp regional focus. “We have goat’s cheese from a local supplier, handmade granola from local Vegas & Rose, truffles from nearby Black Cat Truffles, fresh food from our garden, and regional wines,” says joint owner David Cook-Doulton.

Celebrating the local makers, bakers, growers and producers, and the master chefs who work their magic is all part of the rich tapestry that links Ballarat’s history to its vibrant present.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

It’s 90 minutes from Melbourne, either on the Western Freeway, or hop on a V/Line train from Southern Cross Station.

Staying there

Hotel Vera is a centrally located Art Deco boutique hotel. Consider Hotel Provincial , which feels like a sleek country house, but with its own restaurant, Lola.

a contemporary room at Hotel Provincial, Ballarat — Hotel Provincial has country house vibes.

Eating there

dining at Mr Jones, Ballarat — The table is set at Mr Jones. (Image: Tony Evans/ Visit Victoria)

Culinary whiz Damien Jones helms Chef’s Hat winner Mr Jones Dining with quiet assurance. His modern Asian food is deceptively simple with deep, intense flavours. Low-key, laid-back ambience, lovely staff, thoughtful wine list.

Cocktails are definitely a thing in Ballarat. Reynard (fox in French) is foxy indeed, a clubby space with top-notch cocktails and small bites. Grainery Lane is extravagantly OTT with its massive 1880s bar, myriad chandeliers, brass gin still, Asian-inspired food and lavish cocktails.

dining at Grainery Lane, Ballarat — Dining at Grainery Lane.

Playing there

a laneway filled with artworks in Ballarat — An artful laneway in the city. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Check out local design legend Travis Price’s wall murals in Hop Lane with its colourful canopy of brollies, or in Main Street. The Art Gallery of Ballarat’s off-site Backspace Gallery showcases early-career artists in a stylish, contemporary space. First Nations-owned and run Perridak Arts connects people to place, bringing together art and crafts in this gallery/shop.

a woman admiring artworks at Perridak Arts Gallery — Perridak Arts is a First Nations-run gallery. (Image: Tony Evans)

The wineries of the Pyrenees are close at hand with their welcoming cellar doors and robust reds. Join a behind-the-scenes tour at the Centre for Gold Rush Collections .

Don’t forget the giant bluestone Kryal Castle , ‘the land of adventure’, for a little medieval magic, and not just for the kids: get ready for Highland-style feasting, jousting, even overnight stays.

Your guide to slowing down in the Yarra Valley & Dandenong Ranges