This laid-back resort town on Australia’s Coral Coast is the place to be to explore the wonders of Ningaloo Reef – and it’s no.35 on your list of Top 50 Aussie Towns.
It’s all about reef and range in Exmouth, Australia’s Top Small Tourism Town of the Year for 2022, which sits pretty at the northern gateway to the Ningaloo Coast World Heritage Area.
This rare and protected proposition covers 604,500 hectares and stretches more than 300 kilometres along the remote WA coast, incorporating the wonders of the Ningaloo Marine Park – where people come from all corners of the world to swim with awe-inspiring whale sharks, manta rays and humpback whales – and the grandiose landscapes of the Cape Range National Park.
In a fabulous contrast of the colourful underwater world and rugged, arid land, it includes the largest fringing reef in Australia, a must for keen divers and snorkellers, and an extensive karst system and network of underground caves and water courses.
There are so many underwater species in Exmouth. (Image: Exmouth Dive and Whalesharks Ningaloo)
Eating there
From Exmouth town, you’re in plum position to explore it all. You’ll need sustenance before you start exploring, and the Ningaloo Bakehouse & Cafe will set you up nicely with its breakfast wraps and burgers, just-baked pastries, organic coffee and freshly made smoothies.
Emus are a common sight around Exmouth. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
For lunch, you can’t go past its fulsome selection of handmade pies. Or go for boutique coffee and a virtuous brunch at The Social Society , a community-minded, industrial-chic cafe, bar and wellness hub turning out vegan banana pancake stacks, tomato dukkah eggs, cold-pressed juices and Hemp Temple smoothies.
After a day spent exploring reef and range, there’s perhaps no better wind down in Exmouth than beer and pizza in a shed at Whalebone Brewing Co , owned by two local families with a love of craft beer and a simple vision: for people to enjoy it with mates and family in a no-frills setting under the stars.
Up the road, arty Froth Craft Brewery offers a rustic and welcoming vibe, serving its artisan brews alongside creative food pairings.
The Ningaloo Reef Coastline will blow you away. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
Staying there
Sleep in an oasis of palm trees, bougainvillea and frangipanis at Exmouth Ningaloo Caravan and Holiday Resort , which offers a range of caravan and camping sites, studio chalets and three-bedroom park homes for up to six people or Mantarays Ningaloo Beach Resort , which overlooks scenic Sunrise Beach and gives guests direct access to the reef.
Looking to really push the boat out? Drive 50 minutes around the cape to sink your toes into the sand in style at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef Safari Camp .
Check into barefoot luxury digs at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
Imogen Eveson is Australian Traveller’s Print Editor. She was named Editor of the Year at the 2024 Mumbrella Publish Awards and in 2023, was awarded the Cruise Line Industry Association (CLIA) Australia’s Media Award. Before joining Australian Traveller Media as sub-editor in 2017, Imogen wrote for publications including Broadsheet, Russh and SilverKris. She launched her career in London, where she graduated with a BA Hons degree in fashion communication from world-renowned arts and design college Central Saint Martins. She is the author/designer of The Wapping Project on Paper, published by Black Dog Publishing in 2014. Growing up in Glastonbury, home to the largest music and performing arts festival in the world, instilled in Imogen a passion for cultural cross-pollination that finds perfect expression today in shaping Australia’s leading travel titles. Imogen regularly appears as a guest on radio travel segments, including ABC National Nightlife, and is invited to attend global travel expos such as IMM, ILTM, Further East and We Are Africa.
This remote corner of Australia is one of the world’s last frontiers. This is how to see it properly.
Vast, rugged and deeply spiritual, the Kimberley coast in Australia’s North West feels a world away from everyday Australia – and there are countless ways to explore it. But if you want to reach ancient rock art, hidden gorges and lonely waterfalls, it has to be by boat. Whether you’re aboard a nimble expedition vessel or a luxury yacht with all the trimmings, exploring by the water brings exclusive experiences, shows unique views and makes travel easier than any other mode. And that’s just the beginning of Australia’s North West cruises.
Adventure starts where the road ends.
1. Discover Broome, and beyond
Explore your launchpad before you set sail: Broome. Here camels and their riders stride along the 22 kilometres of powdery Cable Beach at sunset. That’s just the start.
At Gantheaume Point, red pindan cliffs plunge into the turquoise sea, whose low tide uncovers fossilised dinosaur footprints. Broome’s pearling history runs deep. Japanese, Chinese, Malay and Aboriginal divers once worked these waters, and their legacy lives on in boutiques where South Sea pearls still shine.
If the moon’s right, you may catch the Staircase to the Moon over Roebuck Bay. Or simply kick back with a cold beverage and a film under the stars at Sun Pictures , screening since 1916.
Ride a camel along Cable Beach. (Image: Nick Dunn)
2. Unmatched access to The Kimberley
Once you’re onboard, expect a backstage pass to some of the most isolated places on Earth. No roads. No ports. No phone reception.
At Horizontal Falls/ Garaanngaddim, 10-metre tides surge through twin gorges like a natural waterpark ride that’ll make your palms sweat. Then there’s Montgomery Reef/ Yowjab: a giant living platform of coral and seagrass, where the sea pulls back to reveal waterfalls, sea turtles and ospreys.
Up north, King George Falls/ Oomari rage 80 metres down red cliffs. Zodiac boats often nudge in closer so you can feel the spray on your sun-warmed cheeks. You might even fly in to reach Mitchell Falls/ Punamii-unpuu, a four-tiered cascade where you can swim in freshwater pools above the drop.
Come spring, some itineraries veer west to Rowley Shoals: an atoll chain of white sand and reef walls. Then it’s up the winding Prince Regent River to King Cascade/ Maamboolbadda, tumbling over rock terraces, and into a Zodiac to view the Gwion Gwion rock art, whose slender, ochre-painted figures are older than the pyramids.
Get closer to the Kimberley than ever before.
3. Taste the Kimberley with onboard hospitality
You might spend your days clambering over slippery rocks or charging past waterfalls. But when you’re back on the water, it’s a different story. Meals are chef-prepared and regionally inspired: grilled barramundi, pearl meat sashimi, mango tarts, and bush tomato chutney. One night it’s barefoot beach barbecues with your shipmates; the next, alfresco dining on the ship.
Small expedition ships each have their own personality, but many carry just 12 to 36 guests, making being out on the water a whole other experience. You might sink into a spa on the foredeck or sip coffee in a lounge while watching crocodiles cruise by. It’s choose-your-own-relaxation, Kimberley style.
4. Expert-led excursions through the Kimberley
These voyages are led by people who know the Kimberley like the back of their sunburnt hand. Attenborough-esque naturalists might gently tap your shoulder to point out rare birds or tell the story beneath a slab of rock. Historians can explain exactly how that rusted World War II relic came to rest here.
If your ship has a helipad, you might chopper straight to a waterfall-fed swimming hole. If not, you’ll still be hopping ashore for that wet landing at a secret creek.
Then come the evenings: songlines shared by Traditional Owners under the stars, or astronomy sessions that link what’s overhead with what’s underfoot and what’s within.
Explore with naturalists and historians by your side.
5. Relax in luxurious lodgings
Just because you’re off-grid doesn’t mean you have to rough it. These Kimberley vessels are small in size, but mighty in luxury. True North’s ships come with their own helicopters and a no-sea-days policy, so you’re always in the thick of it. Try the luxurious offerings from Ocean Dream Charters for exploration in style. Kimberley Quest offers a fast boat for easy, off-ship adventures. On the larger end of the scale, Coral Expeditions has open-deck bars and curated wine cellars. And then there’s Ponant’s luxury yachts – sleek and incredibly stylish French sailing yachts.
See the Kimberley from sky to shore.
6. The adventure continues with pre- and post-cruise experiences
You’ve already come this far – so, why not go further? Broome makes it easy to ease in before you board, or wind down when your voyage ends, and there is no reason to stop there.
Head an hour and a half south to Eco Beach to stay off-grid and off the clock. Join a Yawuru guide for a mangrove walk or ocean forage. Dive even deeper into Broome’s pearling past at Willie Creek or Cygnet Bay, where divers and craftspeople still pull the seawater-slicked gems from the deep.
If you’re still craving adventure, it’s time to go further. Soar over the Buccaneer Archipelago, or detour inland with a 4WD trip along the Gibb River Road. Book a scenic flight over the Bungle Bungles. Or – because you never know when you’ll be back – do all three.
