The best Indian Pacific train expedition

Travel on a train that does triple duty as a classroom, a fine-dining restaurant and a window into Australia’s soul on an epic journey between the east and west coasts.

The fierce sun beats down mercilessly as a dry wind blows across a near-featureless plain, the heat building until I feel like I’m trapped inside a giant hair dryer. A sheet of loose metal bangs against the verandah of an abandoned school where a thick layer of dust is broken only by the scrawled names of previous visitors.

There’s also a metre-wide cube nearby, which is painted with slogans that are drier than the surrounding outback. “Our hospital needs your help – get sick," reads one side. Suddenly, a siren rings out. I look up to see several hundred figures shuffling in the same direction… but this is no zombie apocalypse. Instead, my fellow passengers are being called back to the Indian Pacific and, in a few minutes, I’ll have swapped the oppressive heat for an ice-cold gin and tonic.

Venturing across the country by train

The abandoned railway town of Cook is one of several stops on a journey that will take us 4352 kilometres across the entire continent of Australia. I’m not sure there’s a single spot along the way that’s flatter or drier, so it seems a fitting memorial for Joseph Cook, our sixth (and ‘most humourless’) prime minister.

an abandoned railway town in Cook — Alight the Indian Pacific in Cook for a glimpse of an abandoned railway town. (Image: Journey Beyond)

The 808-metre-long train extends past the desiccated buildings in either direction, but the endless plain beyond stretches out to the horizon like a vast ocean of sun-baked orange dirt. Astronaut Andy Thomas could see the gun-barrel-straight train tracks cutting across the Nullarbor like a fine pencil line when he gazed down from Mir space station, and that tenuous link connecting the coasts was one of the key factors that encouraged Western Australia to join the Commonwealth of Australia.

the vast rugged landscape across Nullarbor Plain — The Indian Pacific makes tracks through the Nullarbor Plain. (Image: Journey Beyond)

Now, in a world where travel times have contracted and overseas travel feels routine, venturing across the country by train feels like a trip back in time. “My goodness," Frank exclaims, “will you look at that! What a classic Aussie landscape." The garrulous Englishman with a heavy tan and blindingly white teeth is staring out the window, and when I follow his gaze, I have to agree.

The hard-packed red dirt studded with ankle-high saltbush is as iconically Australian as it is forbidding. But what makes this trip remarkable is that he could have made that comment at just about any moment of our four-day journey.

a man standing outside Indian Pacific train in Rawlinna outpost — Rawlinna, like Cook, is an outpost on the Nullarbor Plain. (Image: Journey Beyond)

Day one

With so many things that unite us, it’s easy to forget the sheer variety that exists across this country. But aboard the Indian Pacific, I’m constantly reminded of that rich diversity as we travel from Eora to Whadjuk Country, across the lands of the Wiradjuri, Kaurna, Barngarla, Wirangu and Nyanganyatjara peoples, among many others.

What could be more Australian than pincushions of spinifex stretching out as far as the eye can see and transforming the landscape into a canvas for a giant dot painting flecked with crimson Sturt’s desert peas? Or a vast salt pan holding a pool of water that mirrors the pale blue sky above and makes the horizon disappear entirely?

the Indian Pacific train stopping over the Cook Station — Travel to Sydney and Perth aboard the Indian Pacific train. (Image: Journey Beyond)

Endless oceans of golden stubble stretch out in every direction across Western Australia’s Wheatbelt, broken only by tired-looking gums that create tiny islands of shade. Further west, a glittering creek cascades over boulders as it winds between the rocky banks of a gum-lined gorge.

Each scene is unmistakably Australian, and these glimpses of the vast country are enhanced by the fact that I can dip in and out at will. When the surrounding scenery is too quiet for tumbleweed, the Outback Explorer Lounge is a prime spot to crack open a book or get to know my fellow guests.

the Great Southern train passing through lush greenery over Victoria and NSW — The Great Southern is Australia’s long-distance rail passing through Victoria and NSW. (Image: Journey Beyond)

Day two

By day two, multiple games of Scrabble and cards have broken out and Frank is joined by Paul, a widower whose son has joined him for the ride, and Leon, who is celebrating his Masters degree with a cross-country trip before returning to China.

In the adjoining Queen Adelaide Restaurant car, it’s easy to let a hundred kilometres zip past while lingering over a three-course meal and several glasses of wine. It’s a far cry from the stultifying boredom I felt behind the wheel on a road trip across the Nullarbor.

the Indian Pacific train traversing the vast dry landscape — A journey aboard the iconic Indian Pacific will whisk you between Perth, Adelaide and Sydney in comfort and style. (Image: Journey Beyond)

Instead of optimistically checking the radio and deciding how long to keep driving before setting up camp, here my toughest choice is which cabernet sauvignon to go for – Vasse Felix or Black Duck? And when even that decision is too much, I retire to a compact cabin with a bed that disappears each morning during breakfast to reveal a comfortable seat and fold-out desk by the window.

As we head west, the menu slowly evolves to reflect the environments we’re passing through. Grilled Pacific Ocean swordfish steak doused in lemon myrtle sauce gives way to slow-cooked camel curry and Caesar salad with Freo sardines and truffle-spiked aioli. And when the train stops, the bar is raised even further.

a restaurant facing stunning sea views views over Gulf St Vincent — The restaurant in Port Willunga, SA, offers expansive views over Gulf St Vincent. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission/Josie Withers)

We feast on roast lamb beneath a star-filled sky on the Nullarbor, while the Adelaide stop includes a McLaren Vale excursion where the wine list expands to include juicy negroamaro and montepulciano. Lush vines and olive trees flutter in a gentle sea breeze beside us, and after seeing the landscape flash past at 80 kilometres an hour, it feels as if I’ve stepped into a romantic painting. Even better is to follow, as we take a coach down to Port Willunga for dinner.

the verdant landscape surrounding McLaren Vale wineries — Stop off at McLaren Vale wineries such as Coriole Vineyards. (Image: Journey Beyond)

Day three

Rocky fingers of limestone glow in the evening sun and turquoise waters lap at the skeleton of a ruined jetty below the clifftop Star of Greece restaurant . A zephyr of breeze wafts in through the open windows while the sun slowly dips towards the horizon, leaving a blazing apricot trail as we tuck into crispy salt and Szechuan pepper squid and sweet sugar and gin-cured ocean trout with shiso leaf.

lunch is served on the beach at Star of Greece — Enjoy a sumptuous meal and McLaren Vale wines at the Star of Greece. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission/ Josie Withers)

And every time we hop back onboard, there’s a buzzing school camp atmosphere – with the added excitement of an open bar. Some passengers stick dutifully to their shiraz while others work their way methodically through the wine list as a small party breaks out in the bar carriage each evening. During a particularly rowdy session, our bartender Daniel introduces one octogenarian to espresso martinis.

a family dining at a seaside restaurant — Dine while overlooking breathtaking sea views at the Star of Greece. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission/Adam Bruzzone)

While we eat, sleep and play, the gleaming silver snake carries us inexorably west over days that are as spread out as the landscapes it’s passing through. And in fact, they are longer than usual; chasing the sun for four days means that by the time we reach Perth, we’ve gained three hours on our east coast counterparts.

fresh oysters on a bowl — Chow down on fresh oysters. (Image: HEY GENTS)

Day four

After such a leisurely trip, it’s a mild shock to return to an environment shaped by the straight lines of fences on day four. First hills, then paved roads and finally houses begin appearing with regularity, and the knowledge that the trip is ending soon begins to sink in.

Reflecting on the past four days, it quickly becomes apparent that everyone onboard has had their expectation of Australia confounded in some way. “I was expecting more sand," says Gab, a young nanny from western Queensland, while Peter from Bournemouth didn’t realise it was so flat. “And I had no idea that Adelaide faced west until our sunset dinner," adds Suzie.

moon rising over Broken Hill — Watch the moon rise over Broken Hill. (Image: Destination NSW)

For me, it’s been a timely reminder of just how varied this wide, brown land is. But as we disembark and say our goodbyes within spitting distance of the Swan River, I can’t help feeling like my cross-country journey won’t be complete until I see the Indian Ocean.

The suburban train I board next has a markedly different feel – the espresso martinis have disappeared and the passengers have swapped Scrabble boards for smartphones. It means I’m the only one looking out at a line of Norfolk pines silhouetted against the slowly setting sun, and I can’t help but wonder how many views like this I’ve missed on my own commute home.

the Indian Pacific train passing through the elevated tracks above Broken Hill — The transcontinental crossing in the Indian Pacific is one of the world’s great train journeys. (Image: Journey Beyond)

Minutes later, I’m breathing in salt-laden air and watching the sun dip below the horizon at Bathers Beach in Fremantle. Saffron and crimson threads streak across the sky as several young women jump about in the water and seagulls eye a nearby family’s feast of fish and chips. What a classic Aussie scene, I think to myself. And it’s just one of dozens I’ve glimpsed on my journey across a truly lucky country.

More Journey Beyond train trips

The Indian Pacific has been travelling between Sydney and Perth since 1970, while The Ghan was extended to Darwin in 2004 and crosses Australia from north to south during the dry season.

In 2019, Australia’s newest iconic train journey launched and the Great Southern now travels 2885 kilometres between Adelaide and Brisbane via The Grampians, Canberra and Coffs Harbour.

the Indian Pacific train traversing through the coastal town of Coffs Harbour — Travel in style through the coastal town of Coffs Harbour. (Image: Journey Beyond)

Upping the ante on its rail roster, Journey Beyond offers holiday packages, too. Bookings for its 2024 season are open now for sojourns such as Scenic Sip & Sail , which sees passengers alight the Indian Pacific to spend a day on Rottnest Island and take a seaplane to the Margaret River region for wine tastings and exploration.

The Great Southern train crossing over the Boambee Creek Bridge, NSW — The Great Southern rumbles over Boambee Creek Bridge, NSW. (Image: Journey Beyond)

Its 15-day Ultimate Territory Tour includes a trip aboard The Ghan with extended touring to Uluru-Kata Tjuta, Kakadu and Litchfield national parks. The Adelaide Delight tour is another highlight, pairing the Great Southern with extra gastronomy excursions.

he ‘underground’ town of Coober Pedy during The Ghan Expedition — Tour the ‘underground’ town of Coober Pedy during a trip on sister train The Ghan. (Image: Elise Cook/ Journey Beyond)

The charm of Mildura is hidden in plain sight along the Sturt Highway. The capital of Tropical North Victoria is in a league of its own.

From the moment you arrive in Mildura , the warm air and palm trees invite you to slow down. While most Australians might drive right past it, Mildura is full of surprises. Here you’ll spend one day witnessing over 50,000 years of First Nations history in a UNESCO-listed National Park, and the next dining in a hatted restaurant after wandering through 12,500 fireflies as the outback sunset bursts to life above. From roadside fruit stalls and family-run wineries to houseboats and galleries, it’s time to explore Mildura.

Feast Street, at the heart of Langtree Avenue in Mildura. — Taste, wander and be surprised in Mildura.

Taste Mildura’s produce

It makes sense to start your trip by addressing the most important question: where to eat. In the beating heart of Australia’s food bowl, sample the local produce directly from the source. And then, of course, experience it through the menu of a hatted chef. Or sandwiched between pillowy slices of Nonna’s ciabatta.

Rows of orchards and olive groves invite you to spend the day traipsing from farm to farm. Taste olives propagated from Calabrian trees brought over in the 40s, oranges picked right from the tree and squeezed into juice and spoons full of honey . Bring the holiday back to your kitchen by stocking your pantry at roadside produce stalls, or calling into the ‘silver shed ’ (Sunraysia’s gourmand Mecca).

Thanks to the warm, balmy air and fertile soils, the wineries dotted along these hills produce award-winning local wines. Like Chalmers , a family-run, innovative winery dedicated to making their wines as sustainable as possible. And picturesque Trentham Estate offers views of the snaking Murray River as you sample their vintages.

Venture beyond the gnarled shadows of olive groves and fragrant rows of blossoming fruit trees and you’ll find an otherworldly side to Mildura. With Discover Mildura as your guide, visit Murray River Salt’s Mars-like stacks. The naturally pink salt is formed from an ancient inland sea and evaporated entirely by the sun to create one of the region’s most iconic exports.

Start your day with just-squeezed sunshine.

Hatted dining & Italian history

Mildura is home to a proud community of Calabrians and Sicilians. This, paired with the exceptional local produce, means that you can find paninos on par with those in Italy. The Italian is a Paninoteca serving up made-to-order, hefty, authentic Sicilian paninos. Nonna Rosa’s pork meatballs, slowly cooked in tomato ragu and served in a crusty, fluffy roll topped with gratings of Grana Padano cheese and salsa verde, will call you back to Mildura for the rest of your days.

To find hatted dining in Mildura, simply follow the staircase down into the basement of the historic Mildura Grand Hotel to find Stefano’s . Following the muscle memory and instinct of his Italian roots, he delivers on the principle of ‘cucina povera’. That is, the Italian cooking ideology that turns simple, local ingredients into magic.

Things to do in Mildura include dining at the acclaimed Stefano’s, where simple local ingredients are transformed into Italian culinary magic beneath the historic Grand Hotel. — Bite into Mildura’s Italian heritage.

Discover a thriving culture scene

The city is alive with culture. Whether it’s painted on the town’s walls, told in ancient yarns, or waiting for you in a gallery.

The Mildura Arts Centre was Australia’s first regional art gallery. Behind the walls of Rio Vista Historic House, you’ll find a lineup of ever-changing exhibitions. The gallery’s wall space pays tribute to the art and songlines of local First Nations People, the region’s awe-inspiring landscapes and more. Outside, on the gallery’s lawn, find 12 contemporary sculptures in the Sculpture Park.

Mildura’s streetscapes are a punch of colour. Swirling strokes of paint blend the winding artery of the Murray River, red dirt and local characters into a story you can see with your own eyes, thanks to the Mildura City Heart’s Mural Art Project . Pick up a copy of the Murals of Mildura guide from the Visitor Information Centre.

Follow the border of NSW and Victoria on a map and you’ll see it hugs the curves of a tiny island on the Murray. That’s Lock Island, where, as the sun and moon trade places, the island comes alive as darkness falls. The island is dotted with 12,500 firefly lights that lead you on a meandering path through the outback sunset. The installation is known as Trail of Lights and was created by the same visionary who dreamt up Field of Light at Uluṟu, Bruce Munro.

Things to do in Mildura include exploring its rich cultural scene. From vibrant street art and ancient stories to exhibitions at the Mildura Arts Centre, Australia’s first regional gallery. — Find culture around every corner.

Wonder at ancient landscapes

The landscapes of Mildura feel almost transcendental. The skyline bursts to life with reds, pinks, and deep, sparkly night skies.

The nature will leave you in awe. See hues of pink water changing with the weather at Pink Lakes inside Victoria’s largest national park, Murray Sunset National Oark. Cast a line into Ouyen Lake. Watch the sunset against 70-metre tall red cliffs that reflect the setting sun. Or get the heart racing and sandboard down the Perry Sandhills dunes, formed 40,000 years ago at the end of an ice age.

Just don’t leave without following the twists and turns of the Murray. Stroll or ride along the Shared River Front Path, or jump onboard a boat for a scenic ride.

Your itinerary will be incomplete without a visit to UNESCO World Heritage-listed Mungo National Park . Head out with an Indigenous ranger to witness ancient campsites and footprints, before standing in awe of ancient civilisation near the discovery site of Mungo Man—Australia’s oldest human skeleton at 42,000 years old.

Mungo National Park at night is a vast, silent landscape where ancient dunes glow under moonlight and stars blanket the sky in breathtaking clarity. — Walk in the footsteps of ancient civilisation.

Meet your home away from home

On equal par with planning your meals and adventures, is finding the perfect place to relax at the end of each day.

Sleep inside a Palm Springs postcard at Kar-Rama . A sleek boutique hotel complete with a butterfly shaped, sun-soaked pool. Here you’re staying right in the heart of Mildura but you’ll feel worlds away. Or if you really wish to connect with nature, a night glamping under the stars at Outback Almonds will have you spellbound.

When in Mildura it’s only right to stay on one of the Murray River’s iconic houseboats . Wake up each day to the calm waters of the Murray lapping outside your window. Enjoy days full of river swims, fishing and exploring. All boats are solar-powered and can be self-skippered or moored along the river.

A solar-powered houseboat on the Murray River in Mildura. — Stay and play on the Murray in a solar houseboat.

Start planning the perfect getaway at mildura.com .

An epic journey across three states onboard the Indian Pacific train