Taking over the reins as executive chef from Stefano Manfredi at the beginning of this year, Dean Jones talks past, present and future at one of New South Wales’ more beloved boutique hotels.
What’s different at the restaurant since Stefano Manfredi has left?
The restaurant itself has had a bit of a facelift inside and out. We have enclosed the verandah, which has added to the usability and has become an instant hit with customers. It’s now the place to dine day and night, but with the same al fresco feel as before. The new floor-to-ceiling glass louvre windows frame the garden beautifully and the kitchen garden has been replenished for the winter season, according to what grows well through autumn and the cooler months.
Do you still have a close relationship with him?
Stefano is one of my mentors and someone whom I have great respect for. It’s always good to have people to bounce ideas off and I know I can do that with him.
How would you describe your food?
It is a reflection of my experiences, with a strong Italian focus on seasonality, preparation and combination of flavours. Bold flavours but simplistic. Doing the classics well and also using the Italian way to prepare unique Australian produce with a modern take.
Is there one dish we should make sure we try?
The spaghetti with sea urchin butter, bottarga and brown butter crumbs. In my opinion, it’s a great example of the last question.
What are the biggest challenges with a restaurant in a hotel?
The biggest challenge for me is keeping things interesting for in-house guests and balancing that with a busy restaurant. If we have people staying for three or more nights, it’s nice to be able to offer different food items on the menu.
You have a kitchen garden at Bells. how realistic is it for restaurants to grow their own food?
I think it is realistic to grow your own food. It’s not easy, that’s for sure, but you get out what you put in. You have to be proactive and always planning for the next season. At Bells, we keep all our kitchen green waste for compost, always putting back what we take out. I personally think it’s better to grow more of one item and have that truly be on a menu for the whole season, than to grow too many different things that won’t sustain a menu.
What do you think the next big food trend is?
I believe everything goes around and comes back again; it won’t be long before you see formal dining making a strong presence once again.
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Whales breaching, fires crackling and slow-cooked feasts that make the cold so cosy, one might wish it lasted longer. Winter is no time to stay at home in NSW.
When the mercury drops, winter in NSW comes into its own. Beaches are quieter, the air is crisper and hearty food tastes even better when there’s ice on the windows.
Winter here isn’t for hiding away. It’s for long walks, deep baths, deeper reds and the kind of fireside lounging that feels simultaneously indulgent and entirely deserved after a day of exploring. From whale-watching up north to moodily lit bushwalks and pastry pilgrimages, we’ve mapped out your new favourite season.
From coastal walks to tasty delights, winter in NSW is a time to get out and about.
The Tweed
In winter, the NSW north coast has a front-row seat to one of nature’s greatest migrations. From May to November, humpbacks cruise past the Tweed coast between Antarctica and the Great Barrier Reef. Spot them from the Cabarita Beach headland or get up closer with a boat cruise.
Later, grab a table at Bistro Livi , where the modern Spanish menu features whipped salt cod on toast and spanner crab with curry butter and spelt flatbread. Stick around to poke through the artist studios and indie boutiques of M|Arts Precinct .
Browse the art. (Image: Destination NSW)
The next day, jump aboard the Indigenous Lunch Cruise with Tweed Escapes. You’ll cruise upriver listening to yarns from local Indigenous guides, stop at the Minjungbal Aboriginal Cultural Museum and tuck into lemon myrtle-crusted snapper.
Next, drive out to Farm & Co to pull apart some juicy smoked lamb shoulder with green olive tapenade while gazing out over the macadamia fields and avocado groves of this working farm.
End the day at Mantra on Salt Beach where you’ll enjoy beach access, a heated rock spa and a lagoon pool.
Taste modern Spanish at Bistro Livi.
Blue Mountains
The cold season is hands down the best time to visit the Blue Mountains. Temperatures are perfect – sunny enough for hikes, and crisp enough at night for snuggling up.
For a trip that equally soothes and stirs, start with a meditative meander through the national park’s eucalypts and Australian wildflowers. Brave the steepest passenger railway in the world, Scenic Railway , then hop the Skyway aerial cable car for unrivalled Three Sisters views.
Thaw out at the Japanese Bath House in South Bowenfels. Soak in steamy outdoor onsens filled with natural mineral water and mountain views, wander the rose and zen gardens, or sip hot drinks in the tea house.
Rug up for Blue Mountains Stargazing. (Image: Destination NSW)
Afterwards, head to Ates in Blackheath, where everything revolves around a 150-year-old ironbark-fuelled oven – like the wood-roasted duck with nectarines and Szechuan spice. Or visit Tempus Katoomba , which leans experimental and sustainable, serving up dishes like braised fennel with cumin, spiced yogurt and Aleppo pepper.
Rug up and head into the night with Blue Mountains Stargazing . Sessions are guided by astrophysicists, helping you understand what you’re looking at as you look into deep space.
Wrap it all up at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains – MGallery Collection . There’s a whiskey bar in the basement (and crackling fires that make a dram taste even better), indoor and outdoor pools and a day spa. Kids will love the mirror maze and ice rink, too.
End the day with delicious meals at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains. (Image: Destination NSW)
Southern Highlands
Good food and wine by the fire, experienced between sifting through second-hand treasures, is a winter vibe in Bowral.
Start with a lap around Dirty Janes , an antique and vintage market. Recover from your shopping frenzy at Bendooley Book Barn , where floor-to-ceiling shelves and a roaring fire set the tone for an afternoon of red wine or hot coffee.
When it’s time to eat, head to Hickory’s Restaurant & Bar , Peppers Craigieburn Bowral’s onsite restaurant. Try the crispy pork belly with Granny Smith crisps and apple gel, or ocean trout with wakame, lemon gel and pickled radish.
Wander the antiques at Dirty Janes. (Image: Destination NSW)
Another option, Onesta Cucina , does Italian with flair. For something more casual (with cocktails), Flour Bar swings between brunch and dinner, with an onsite bakery, over 400 wines and a hidden deli in the old bank vault.
Later, clamber Mt Gibraltar , where trails wind through eucalypt forest to views over Bowral and Mittagong.
Stay at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral , a century-old estate with open fires, elegant lounges and a nine-hole golf course.
Stay cosy at Peppers Craigieburn Bowral.
Penrith
Shake off winter inertia with an adrenaline boost out in Penrith. Kick things off with a kayak paddle on the Nepean River with Horizon Line, or head to Cables Wake Park , where cold-weather wetsuits take the edge off a wipeout.
For something a bit more cruisy, opt for the Nepean Belle Paddlewheeler for slow-floating views and a hot cuppa.
Head out on the Nepean River. (Image: Destination NSW)
Refuel at Marcel Bar & Bistro , where reimagined European comfort food – like seafood risotto in bisque with little neck clams and Moreton Bay bugs – is king. Then check in at the Pullman Sydney Penrith , the area’s first international five-star hotel, to enjoy your well-earned rest.
