The ultimate guide to a holiday in the Hawkesbury

There’s something to be said for travelling close to home, as Sydneysiders discover when they holiday in and around the Hawkesbury to rediscover some of life’s simple pleasures.

The Hawkesbury region is an excellent place to escape from Sydney, offering so much more than just a place to summer holiday. It’s beautiful in winter, autumn and spring too, as are some of the surrounding boroughs such as Berowra and Broken Bay.

Cosy fireplace at Berowra Waters Inn — It doesn’t need to be summer for a brilliant holiday in the Hawkesbury. (Image: Berowra Waters Inn)

From the retro houseboats floating up and down the river, like glowing lanterns, to the posh stays a-plenty that are fastened like pretty brooches to the hills, and water-based activities for families who like to roll in with the tide on weekends, here’s our guide to making the most of a holiday in and around the Hawkesbury, on the Traditional Lands of the Darug and Darkinjung people.

Sunset from the houseboat on the Hawkesbury — Spot houseboats floating up and down the river. (Image: Destination NSW)

Where to stay on the Hawkesbury

In the past decade or so, the accommodation options nestled into the natural surrounds have made the region even more of a draw. From Brooklyn to Berowra Waters, located on a tributary of the Hawkesbury, life here feels a little quieter and more peaceful when the only way to access your accommodation is by boat or seaplane.

Aerial view of boat at Marramarra Lodge — The exclusivity of boat or seaplane-only access to your accommodation. (Image: Isaac Tseng)

Calabash Bay Lodge

Calabash Bay Lodge is part of the Wild Luxury portfolio of eco-positive boutique retreats that aim to connect visitors seamlessly to the outdoors.

Following a recent refurbishment led by award-winning interior designer Carole Whiting, the four-bedroom lodge is now more luxe than ever with designer touches such as a decadent Agape Immersion bathtub, Astra Walker tapware, an elegant kitchen with Vagli Oro marble and local Australian and Indigenous art from Joshua Yeldham and Tracey Deep and sheepskin and wool rugs softening the spotted gum floors.

Bedroom at Calabash Hawkesbury — Award-winning interior designer Carole Whiting is behind the stylish refurbishment of the four-bedroom lodge.

While Berowra Waters is not technically in the Hawkesbury region – it’s on Berowra Creek – it’s perfectly positioned as a launching pad for exploring the area.

The deck at Calabash Wild Luxury — Soak up the views from your private deck at Calabash Bay Lodge.

Level up your stay in the region by booking local chef Manuel Affarian, of Secret Dining, who will pick you up from the Berowra Marina and deliver you to the door of the boutique retreat where he will proceed to cook up a three-course feast while you curl up on the L-shaped couch in front of the fire.

Dining room Calabash Bay Lodge — Try the Secret Chef for a private dining experience in the retreat.

Apart from the luxury of having your own private chef, every room and living area in the house has a water view, which means there’s a lot to love and the touches of Hawkesbury sandstone connect you back to the surrounding views. Wake up at the first pink glimmering of daylight to a chorus of birdsong and mist mingling with the water, with the trees illuminated in silvery light.

Oh Buoy

Oh Buoy comes with all the retro trappings you’d expect from a boat of this vintage. Soak in the beauty of Berowra Creek, a tributary of the Hawkesbury in the backwaters of Berowra, on dinky floating digs that stands apart for its mid-Century styling, look and feel.

From its walnut-toned wall panelling to its 1950s-style furniture, warm saffron tones, and ornate lamps, you can be at one with the water birds while curled up like a comma in the hammock on the sun deck. Plan a day of fishing and a quiet evening in as you won’t want to go anywhere.

Marramarra Lodge

In addition to the more high-end accommodation and houseboats, there are a plethora of places that offer families an affordable holiday on the Hawkesbury. But if you’re angling to have an adults-only break, Marramarra Lodge is a must.

The retreat, which is surrounded by Marramarra National Park, has a rich history, with the leisure facilities and billiards room housed in Carter House, which was built in the 1920s.

Boathouse at Marrmarra Lodge — Sit and watch the world go by at Marramarra’s boathouse.

Marramarra Lodge is located at Fisherman’s Point, on the Traditional Lands of the Darug people.

Marramarra Jetty — Arrive by boat at Marramarra Lodge.(Image: Isaac Tseng)

What to do in the Hawkesbury

Adventure. Heritage. Hikes. Farmgate tours. A distillery. Historic pubs. Fine dining. Casual cafes. You won’t run out of things to do in the Hawkesbury, where the people-to-place ratio in towns such as Bilpin, Ebenezer, Kurrajong, Pitt Town, Richmond, St Albans, Wilberforce, Windsor and Wisemans Ferry will lean in your favour. Here, a cheatsheet of top things to do on a Hawkesbury holiday.

Aerial view of Broken Bay — You won’t run out of things to do in the Hawkesbury.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

Sydney Oyster Tours

Not far from the township of Brooklyn, at the entrance of the Hawkesbury River, is where you will find an in-water table, clad in white linen, just a short oyster shell’s throw away from the hundred or so oyster trays that dangle deep in the nutrient-rich water.

Sheridan Beaumont is a third-generation oyster farmer and she’s prising open the freshly harvested oysters for a couple who are honeymooning on the Hawkesbury and standing around the table, which seems to be floating over the still water.

Sydney Oyster Farm Tours are literally the most immersive way to enjoy the bivalve molluscs, which have a buttery, briny taste that is typical of Sydney rocks.

Sydney Oyster Farm Tour oyster tasting — Taste freshly-shucked oysters on a Sydney Oyster Farm Tour.

The tasting table is a top spot to enjoy the prized shellfish, au natural alongside a glass of sparkling wine. This is an arena for connoisseurs as well as those who are new to the business of inhaling the glistening contents of a half shell of oyster.

Sydney Oyster Farm Tour — The Immerse Yourself experience at Sydney Oyster Tours.

The Immerse Yourself experience follows a boat tour out to the oyster leases where visitors don waders in order to taste what will be some of the freshest oysters you’ve tasted in your life.

Go on a guided audio art walk

The first of 11 audio walks along the Dyarubbin/Hawkesbury River has been released to share the history of the local First Nations people, the Darug, as well as colonial and convict history, stories of floods and farming as told by more than 100 participants.

The inaugural instalment for 11 Stories from the River Dyarubbin series of audio walks is led by composer/producer Oonagh Sherrard. The Hawkesbury Regional Museum is also worth a visit.

See some of Australia’s early colonial architecture

Plot your course between Australia’s oldest church in Ebenezer, one of the Hawkesbury Valley’s colourful villages, wander along the convict-built Old Great North Road, a World Heritage-listed site, get a glimpse into the past at the Australiana Pioneer Village, in Wilberforce and take some happy snaps of the colonial architecture on show in Windsor and Richmond where some of Australia’s oldest sandstone buildings can be found.

Streetscapes of Windsor — Admire the colonial architecture on show in Windsor. (Image: Destination NSW)

The Settlers Arms pub at St Albans, established in 1836, is possibly one of the most charming pubs in the country. Hole up here in one of four cosy double rooms in the former coaching inn, a destination for city dwellers on a weekend getaway.

Kayak up the river

You will feel like you’re in the middle of nowhere, in the best possible sense when you’re staying at Calabash Bay Lodge as you can grab a couple of the lodge’s courtesy kayaks and paddle up Calabash Creek, the mist still layered over the landscape like a piece of pink muslin.

Kayak from Calabash Bay Lodge — Calabash Bay Lodge offers guests courtesy kayaks to use.

Located at the waterfront junction of three national parks – the Marramarra, Ku-ring-gai Chase, and Berowra Valley – on a sparkling tributary of the Hawkesbury River, the secluded lodge, accessible only by boat or seaplane, is the perfect jumping-off point for cruising up the river, where it’s likely you won’t see a single soul.

Marramarra Lodge also has courtesy stand-up paddle boards and kayaks.

Follow the farm gate trail

Pick your own cherries, apples, pears, stone fruit and strawberries (depending on the season) at one of the many farms that are at the heart of the Hawkesbury.

Children will love visiting the alpaca farming community, and buying fruit and vegetables direct from some of the apple-cheeked farmers many of whom have goats and chickens on their properties, too.

In addition to the many cider sheds, you’ll find quirky local cafes, orchards, a distillery, breweries and even a few cellar doors.

Bilpin Apple Pie Trail

Visitors can also uncover the region’s charm by following Bilpin’s Apple Pie Trail, cycling along quiet country roads and picking fresh produce from local orchards and even enjoying an immersive farm stay.

Bilpin apples — Go apple picking in Bilpin. (Image: Destination NSW)

Action heroes can also pencil in events such as the Hawkesbury Canoe Classic, which starts in Windsor and ends at Mooney Mooney and tick off bucket-list dining experiences in nearby Berowra (located on a tributary of the Hawkesbury River).

Take a tour of a working Australian pearl farm

The story behind the Australian pearl industry is fascinating, spanning generations and bridging cultural divides. Learn all about how the lustrous gem is grown at NSW’s only operating pearl farm, Broken Bay Pearl Farm, where the staff are passionate about sharing their expertise about the only precious gem on the planet that is intrinsically sustainable and born within a living organism: the oyster.

Broken Bay Pearl Farm tour leader — The passionate staff at Broken Bay Pearl Farm share their knowledge.

The farm, which has its origin at the confluence of the Hawkesbury River, Pittwater and Brisbane River, and flows into the Tasman Sea, started welcoming visitors to the working farm in 2018 and one of the most fascinating aspects of the tour is learning about the power of positive pearling.

Akoya Pearl Broken Bay — Learn how to farm the pristine Akoya pearl.

A two-hour Private Discovery Experience with Pearls Australia includes a short presentation about the history of the Australian pearl industry, a pootle upriver by punt to see a pearl oyster lease, an immersive pearl grading experience and a lesson on how to farm the pristine Akoya pearls.

On the Boat on a Private Discovery Experience with Pearls Australia — A two-hour Private Discovery Experience with Pearls Australia is an immersive experience.

As well as admiring elegantly crafted pearl jewellery at the sustainable farm’s shellar door, visitors will get the opportunity to indulge in Sydney rock oysters and Akoya pearl oysters, too.

Broken Bay Pearls Shellar Door — Visit the sustainable farm’s shellar door.

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Where to eat and drink in the Hawkesbury

From fresh local produce to fine dining at waterfront restaurants, a holiday in the Hawkesbury delivers some pretty tasty options when it comes to where to eat.

Berowra Waters Inn

While Berowra Waters Inn might be the long-lasting legacy of the late, great Tony Bilson, it very much belongs in the hands of talented chef Bryan Geraghty who has made the iconic Berowra Waters restaurant his own. Chef Bryan worked under Bilson for many years. And when the opportunity to take over the premises arose, he jumped at it. Located on Berowra Creek, on a tributary of the Hawkesbury River, it is destination dining at its very finest. Bucket-list stuff.

Sunny deck at Berowra Waters Inn — Find a sunny spot on the deck at Berowra Waters Inn. (Image: Sebastian Photography)

Indulge all your foodie fantasies with the set menu and drink pairing, which changes with the seasons and includes such delights as pork, maple, hazelnut and turnip, Murray cod, oysters and ham, kingfish, pepper, finger lime and sea fennel. There’s a free shuttle that ferries diners to and from the Berowra Marina or their riverside accommodation.

The menu at at Berowra Waters Inn — Each dish at Berowra Waters Inn is a work of art.

Secret Dining

Got a special occasion planned during your stay in Berowra? Call long-time local chef Manuel Affarian of Secret Dining, who can whip up a three- or four-course feast or deliver it to your dinghy, pontoon or preferred picnic spot. The bespoke catering service can tailor a menu to suit and having Manny on hand to regale you with colourful tales of life on the river is part of the experience, as is being immersed in this lyrical landscape with the go-slow vibes.

A Chef’s Secrets

There’s a reason the word ‘secret’ has crept into two of the most popular dining experiences on the Hawkesbury. To outsiders, everything here feels hidden and confidential. But by the looks on the faces of the smug locals, this is the kind of place they want to keep all to themselves. Located right near the Berowra Marina, the lunchtime crowd at A Chef’s Secret is a mix of Sydneysiders in the know and locals who have pulled up to the restaurant pier in their dinghies and greet Roman-born chef and restaurateur Mario Nogarotto like an old friend.

The restaurant, located in an 1898 boat shed, is open for lunch Wednesday to Sunday and dinner Fridays and Saturday nights. The dining experience is in perfect symbiosis with the waterway which Mario says reminds him ‘of a little slice of Lake Como’. Enjoy Sydney rock appellation oysters, fried school prawns and fingerlime, cured hiramasa kingfish and the testun al barolo (drunken cheese) with fruit mustard for afters.

The Richmond Good Food Market

Want to learn about the hero ingredients available in and around the Hawkesbury? Head to the Richmond Good Food Market, which is held every Saturday from 8am to 1pm. Have you even been to the country if you don’t leave with an esky full of food and drinks? This dinky little market only has a couple of produce stalls, along with local honey, homemade cakes, coffee and biscuits. And it’s for this reason you know the hyperlocal ingredients will sing of the seasons.

George St Loft, Windsor

Even your most strident atheist will find something to admire about the historic churches in Windsor. After visiting Ebenezer Church, the oldest existing church in Australia, you can head to another place of worship: George St Loft where locals gather for coffee and brunch. The café, which is open seven days a week, serves coffee directly sourced from a local supplier, Underground Roasters. Stalk the café’s Instagram to find out when they are holding one of their regular themed ‘Middle Feastern’ Tables.

Karu Distillery

The rustic Karu Distillery, located in Grosevale, won double gold at this year’s San Francisco World Spirits Competition for its Morita Chipotle Vodka. Visit the brand-new distillery door in the Devil’s Wilderness where you will be regaled by compelling stories by husband-and-wife team Nick and Ally, who offer tutored tasting of gin and vodka crafted by hand on site.

Bilpin Cider Co.

This is the kind of roadside pit stop that has saved the sanity of many parents passing by. Enjoy a picnic on the sprawling grounds of the Bilpin Cider Co property, where you can enjoy a pre-prepared picnic hamper on weekends and public holidays (bookings essential). In addition to the apple orchard, the farm is home to friendly sheep and alpacas who roam the garden, which has great views of the Blue Mountains.

Meet the alpacas at the Bilpin Cider Farm. (Image: Destination NSW)

Getting there

It’s about a 60 to 90-minute drive to the Hawkesbury from Sydney depending on whether you travel west via the M2 Motorway, Old Windsor Road and Windsor Road, or head north via the Northconnex to Berowra Waters at the eastern end of the river. It’s about 89 kilometres from Lithgow to Windsor, 22 kilometres from Penrith, 32 kilometres from Parramatta and 62 kilometres from Katoomba. The Hawkesbury River is at the heart of the region, which has four free vehicular ferries linking roads and communities. The ferries operate around the clock except during flooding or when closed for maintenance. To check on the ferry operation and timetable, call the Hawkesbury Visitor Information Centre on 02 4560 4620.

See the Murray region in an entirely different light by exploring its night-time experiences and attractions.

By day, the mighty Murray River is a majestic and ever-changing sight, with river red gums and wetlands stretching along 2500 kilometres. But by night, its cities, towns, villages and landscapes totally transform.

From Albury Wodonga to Mildura, and everywhere in between, you’ll be in for a multi-sensory and memorable treat encompassing mesmerising light shows, guided ghost tours and vibrant celebrations that capture the nocturnal magic of the river.

This is no ordinary nighttime adventure; the region becomes an entirely different world when the sun sets. Discover six must-do activities along the Murray that can only be enjoyed after dark.

Port After Dark tour Murray at night — Hold on to your nerve when learning local ghost stories. (Credit: Campaspe Shire Council)

If you’re up for something a little more spine-tingling, Port After Dark in Echuca is your best bet. Rumour has it that the Port of Echuca Wharf and the buildings around it have long been home to lingering ghosts and mysterious events – like the vengeful woman said to haunt an old tramway bridge and spirits searching for stolen money through the town centre.

You can hear all about them on this guided lantern tour, which takes place on Wednesday and Saturday nights after dark. The stories are atmospheric and intriguing – you may even spot a ghost or two yourself. If you’d like a more intimate experience, private tours are also available to groups of 15 or more.

2. Wander art installations

Bruce Munroe's Fibre Optic Symphoinic Orchestra Murray at night — See Bruce Munro’s immersive art installation. (Credit: Serena Munro)

Right near the Perry Sandhills, sits an experience that feels almost otherworldly. Artist Bruce Munro (of Uluru’s Field of Lights fame) has created a Fibre Optic Symphonic Orchestra, a network of 80 Hills Hoists illuminated with fibre optic light combined with the sounds of an orchestra. The clotheslines glow and pulse in time to the specially composed score, immersing you in a dreamscape of light and sound.

For a different light experience, you’ll find stillness at Trail of Lights, also curated by Munro. Located just 30 minutes away on Lock Island in Mildura, thousands of lights stretch over the landscape, spotlighting both the river and a series of Munro’s sculptures. The trail is intended to be a peaceful and meditative setting for wandering and reflecting.

3. Learn through lasers

Heartbeat of the Murray at night — Travel 30 million years into the Murray’s past at Heartbeat of the Murray. (Credit: Ewen Bell)

Discover a fascinating history in this dual act of lights and projections on the banks of the Little Murray River. Legends of the Mallee is a multimedia show in Swan Hill combining lasers and lights, which tells the story of the region’s rich past. Learn about the Wamba Wamba and Wadi Wadi Peoples who first inhabited the area, as well as the figures and events that shaped the Mallee of today.

The river steals the spotlight in the Heartbeat of the Murray, a multimedia spectacle inside the Pioneer Settlement encompassing lights, lasers, sound and special effects against the natural backdrop. Through a sequence of large-scale animated projections, you’ll go back 30 million years to explore the Murray River’s formation before travelling to the present to learn how it supports modern communities.

4. Light up the lake

Lake Mulwala Laser Light Show Murray at night — Watch the lights and lasers of Lake Mulwala. (Credit: Mulwala Water Ski Club)

Travelling with kids? Head to Yarrawonga Mulwala and nearby Lake Mulwala for the family-friendly Laser Light & Sound Show. Lights and lasers are projected over the lake and onto curtains of fog, creating a colourful and high-energy visual display. The show suits all ages and tastes, set to a mix of songs that everyone knows and loves.

You can take in the spectacle from either the grassy banks of the lake or book a table at the Mulwala Water Ski Club’s Malibu Deck Cafe, serving pub-style food and refreshing drinks, including excellent classic cocktails. If you’re watching from the foreshore, the show is entirely free, making it a great budget-friendly option.

5. Be captivated by local culture

Bullanginya Dreaming Murray at night — Soak in the culture of the Bangerang People. (Credit: Laser Vision)

Set aside an evening to explore Bullanginya Dreaming in Cobram Barooga – you’ll want ample time to take in the stories and symbolism of this immersive laser light and sound trail. The 1.8-kilometre trail explores the storytelling and culture of the Bangerang People, who have long cared for the lands around Bullanginya Lagoon in Barooga. The trail features 12 activations – each telling a different story – and combines dramatic lights and lasers with water and fire.

Intertwined with the visual displays are Bangerang narratives, giving you meaningful insight into the area’s Indigenous heritage. It’s designed to be explored over 90 or so minutes, encouraging you to move slowly and thoughtfully.

6. Discover a winter glow

winterglow festival — See the streets of Albury Wodonga come to life after dark. (Credit: Visit Albury Wodonga)

Albury Wodonga comes alive as the weather drops, with an annual celebration of the season on Saturday, 15 August. WinterGlow takes over the CBD and features a vibrant program of things to see, do, learn, eat and drink.

Take part in hands-on workshops that let you try different art forms and crafts. Feast on street food and winter warmers from local eateries. Browse for artisan wares at the night markets. Watch musical acts on the main stage. Or get involved in different activations, including a silent disco and giant maze. Artificial snow will be falling to add to the festive atmosphere.

Even wandering the streets and laneways and soaking up the late-night energy will leave you feeling enchanted.

Start planning a day-to-night adventure along the Murray at visitthemurray.com.au.

The ultimate guide to a holiday in the Hawkesbury

There’s something to be said for travelling close to home, as Sydneysiders discover when they holiday in and around the Hawkesbury to rediscover some of life’s simple pleasures.