Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre is about to flood for the first time in years

Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre is rising – and so is demand to see it.

It’s the kind of natural phenomenon that has Australians dropping everything and booking a seat on the next flight to the outback. After years of shimmering silence, Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre is coming back to life – in a spectacular, once-in-a-decade kind of way. Fed by floodwaters caused by heavy rain across outback Queensland last month from Diamantina River and Cooper Creek, the usually bone-dry salt lake in outback South Australia is transforming into a vast inland sea, and travellers are racing to see the magic unfold.

Plane flying over Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre — Don’t miss this rare flooding event. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

The rare flooding event is already being called one of the most significant in recent memory. Water is making its slow and steady journey across thousands of kilometres of arid inland, eventually pooling in the basin of Australia’s largest lake – a place so vast and flat you can see the curve of the Earth. But when the rains do come, the desert doesn’t just bloom – it explodes with life.

Birds flock in from thousands of kilometres away, wildflowers erupt in bursts of colour and locals brace for an influx of visitors all eager to see one of Australia’s most remote and remarkable landscapes at its absolute peak.

Outback Spirit South Australia Lake Eyre — Heavy rain and floods across outback Queensland last month are expected to fill the lake. (Image: Outback Spirit)

“This is nature at its most awe-inspiring," says Cher Lontok, head of product and operations – Australia at APT, which has just expanded its 2025 Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre touring program in response to soaring demand.

“We’ve launched a brand-new tour and added departures to make sure more Australians have the chance to see it before it’s gone."

APT’s new eight-day Lake Eyre and Painted Hills tour (from $7395) includes scenic flights over the lake and the surreal outback landscapes of the Painted Desert – a region that’s usually off-limits to the public. Also on offer is the seven-day Lake Eyre and Flinders Ranges tour , which visits ochre-hued escarpments, ancient gorges and outback towns, with expert guides and luxury stays along the way.

Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre aerial shot — Seeing Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre is a surreal experience. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

Another operator, Outback Spirit, is also taking expressions of interest for small-group expeditions to coincide with this year’s event.

The Ghan is in on the action as well , offering a scenic flight that sweeps over Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre, the Painted Hills and Coober Pedy as an optional upgrade on its iconic Darwin to Adelaide rail journey.

For many, it’s a pilgrimage. For others, a chance to witness what scientists call a “hydrological miracle". For everyone lucky enough to see it – it’s an unforgettable glimpse at Australia’s wildest beauty.

Outback Spirit Lake Eyre Cessna plane — Outback Spirit is taking expressions of interest for tours. (Image: Outback Spirit)

But there’s a ticking clock. Flood events like this don’t last forever. And while Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre hasn’t filled just yet, experts say the incoming waters could make this one of the most impressive inundations in at least six years since the 2019 mark of 8.15 metres. But based on rainfall in south-west Queensland, it’s looking like levels will surpass 2019 and should be similar to 2010 when it almost filled completely.

So, if you’ve ever dreamed of seeing the desert flood, flocks of pelicans soaring over mirrored salt pans and a landscape reborn, this is your sign. Seats are selling fast, and once the lake dries up, it could be years before the show returns.

This is Australia’s ultimate ephemeral experience – and the curtains are just about to rise. As the old saying goes, when it rains, it tours.

Slow down and find your rhythm on a Murray River journey through time and place.

Trust is a funny thing. It seems not that long ago that my mother was insisting on pouring the milk into my cereal bowl, because she didn’t trust me not to slosh it over the table, and yet here I am on the Murray River at Mildura in far north-west Victoria, being handed the keys to a very new and very expensive luxury houseboat.

After a crash course in how not to crash, I’m at the wheel of the good ship Elevate – pride of the All Seasons fleet – guiding her upstream past red-ochre cliffs as pelicans glide above the rippled river and kookaburras call from reedy banks. There’s a brief moment of breath-holding while I negotiate a hairpin turn around a jagged reef of skeletal, submerged gum trees, before a cheer rings out and calm descends as the timeless river unfurls in front of us.

The Murray River winding through Yarrawonga. (Image: Rob Blackburn)

Setting sail from Mildura

Murray River birds — Home to a large number of bird species, including pelicans. (Image: The Precint Studios)

A journey along the Murray River is never less than magical, and launching from Mildura makes perfect sense. Up here the river is wide and largely empty, giving novice skippers like myself the confidence to nudge the 60-tonne houseboat up to the riverbank where we tie up for the night, without fear of shattering the glass elevator (the boat is fully wheelchair accessible) or spilling our Champagne.

My friends and I spend three days on the water, swimming and fishing, sitting around campfires onshore at night, and basking in air so warm you’d swear you were in the tropics. The simplicity of river life reveals an interesting dichotomy: we feel disconnected from the world but at the same time connected to Country, privileged to be part of something so ancient and special.

Stop one: Echuca

19th-century paddlesteamers — A historic 19th-century paddlesteamer cruises along the Murray River. (Image: Visit Victoria)

The six-hour drive from Melbourne to Mildura (or four hours and 20 minutes from Adelaide) is more than worth it, but you don’t have to travel that far to find fun on the river. Once Australia’s largest inland port, Echuca is the closest point on the Murray to Melbourne (two hours 45 minutes), and you’ll still find a plethora of paddlesteamers tethered to the historic timber wharf, a throwback to the thriving river trade days of the 19th century. The PS Adelaide, built in 1866 and the oldest wooden-hulled paddlesteamer operating in the world, departs daily for one-hour cruises, while a brand-new paddlesteamer, the PS Australian Star , is launching luxury seven-night voyages in December through APT Touring.

The town is also a hot food and wine destination. St Anne’s Winery at the historic Port of Echuca precinct has an incredibly photogenic cellar door, set inside an old carriage builders’ workshop on the wharf and filled with huge, 3000-litre port barrels. The Mill, meanwhile, is a cosy winter spot to sample regional produce as an open fire warms the red-brick walls of this former flour mill.

Stop two: Barmah National Park

Just half-an-hour upstream, Barmah National Park is flourishing, its river red gum landscape (the largest in the world) rebounding magnificently after the recent removal of more than 700 feral horses. The internationally significant Ramsar-listed wetland sits in the heart of Yorta Yorta Country, with Traditional Owners managing the environment in close partnership with Parks Victoria. Walkways weave through the forest, crossing creeks lined with rare or threatened plants, passing remnants of Yorta Yorta oven mounds and numerous scar trees, where the bark was removed to build canoes, containers or shields.

The Dharnya Centre (open weekdays until 3pm) is the cultural hub for the Yorta Yorta. Visitors can learn about the ecological significance of the Barmah Lakes on a 90-minute river cruise, led by a First Nations guide, or take a one-hour, guided cultural walking tour along the Yamyabuc Trail.

Stop three: Cobram

Continue east to Cobram to find the southern hemisphere’s largest inland beach. Swarming with sun-seekers in summer, the white sand of Thompson’s Beach is shaded by majestic river red gums and dotted with hundreds of beach umbrellas, as beachgoers launch all manner of water craft and set up stumps for beach cricket. But the beach is at its most captivating at sunset, when the crowds thin out, the glassy river mirrors the purple sky, and the canopies of the gum trees glow fiery orange.

The region is also home to some fine resorts and indulgent retreats. Yarrawonga Mulwala Golf Club Resort has two riverside championship golf courses, luxury apartments and self-contained villas. While not strictly on the Murray, the historic wine town of Rutherglen is rife with boutique (and unique) accommodation, including an exquisitely renovated red-brick tower in a French provincial-style castle at Mount Ophir Estate. Fans of fortified wines can unravel the mystery of Rutherglen’s ‘Muscat Mile’, meeting the vignerons and master-blenders whose artistry has put the town on the global map for this rich and complex wine style.

Stop four: Albury-Wodonga

First Nations YindyamarraSculpture Walk — First Nations Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk is part of the Wagirra Trail. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

Follow the river far enough upstream and you’ll arrive at the twin border cities of Albury-Wodonga. The Hume Highway thunders through, but serenity can be found along the five-kilometre Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk – part of the Wagirra Trail that meanders through river wetlands just west of Albury in Wiradjuri country. Fifteen sculptures by local First Nations artists line the trail, conveying stories of reconciliation, enduring connection to culture, local Milawa lore and traditional practices. It feels a long way from Mildura, and it is, but the pelicans and kookaburras remind us that it’s the same river, the great conduit that connects our country.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

New Mildura motel Kar-rama. (Image: Iain Bond Photo)

Kar-Rama is a brand-new boutique, retro-styled motel in Mildura, with a butterfly-shaped pool and a tropical, Palm Springs vibe. Echuca Holiday Homes has a range of high-end accommodation options, both on the riverfront and in town.

Playing there

BruceMunro’s Trail of Lights in Mildura — Bruce Munro’s Trail of Lights in Mildura. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Artist Bruce Munro’s Trail of Lights installation, comprising more than 12,000 illuminated ‘fireflies’, is currently lighting up Mildura’s Lock Island in the middle of the Murray. Murray Art Museum Albury (MAMA) is a hub for contemporary art, with a rotating roster of exhibitions, and is a major outlet for young and First Nations artists.

Eating there

Mildura’s diverse demographic means it’s a fantastic place to eat. Andy’s Kitchen is a local favourite, serving up delicious pan-Asian dishes and creative cocktails in a Balinese-style garden setting. Call in to Spoons Riverside in Swan Hill to enjoy locally sourced, seasonal produce in a tranquil setting overlooking the river.