Australia’s mesmerising pink lakes: 21 dreamy spots you must visit!

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Their shocking shades of watermelon and fleeting fairy floss hues keep us forever enchanted by these natural wonders.

Australia’s pink lakes are some of the most breathtaking natural wonders on Earth, drawing photographers, adventurers and nature lovers alike. And why are they pink? Often, it’s a winning combination of algae known as Dunaliella salina or Halobacterium bacteria that produces the red pigments and lovely oh-so-salty environments.

If you want to up your chances of seeing these lakes at the rosiest of pinks, the best time to visit most of them is in the warmer months when it is more likely that these pink-loving microorganisms will grow.

Ready to pack your camera and go? Here is our guide to the pink lakes of Australia.

1. Lake Hillier, Middle Island, WA

When is it pink? Constantly! With its crazy combination of a watermelon pink lake against the teal blue of the Southern Ocean, Lake Hillier in Western Australia is Australia’s most famous lake.

an aerial view of the pink Lake Hillier and the blue sea
Take in the striking contrast of the pink lake and blue sea. (Image: True North)

How can I visit? Lake Hillier is a delicate gal, with a very particular ecosystem and a protected status. As such you can’t swim here.

However, you can take an aerial tour or a private charter by air, which is best for being able to see that striking contrast of the pink lake and blue sea. Alternatively, boat tours are available.

the stunning Lake Hillier as seen from above
You can take an aerial tour or a private charter by air. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Other information: The Recherche Archipelago Nature Reserve is protected and remote. Planning is needed to get here!

an aerial view of Lake Hillier, Middle Island, WA
Lake Hillier is a protected saline lake in Western Australia. (Image: Tourism Australia)

2. Hutt Lagoon, Coral Coast, WA

When is it pink? Hutt Lagoon shades shift depending on the time of year, water levels, salinity, and weather conditions. For the most intense of pinks, aim for the warmer months.

an aerial view of the pink lake at Hutt Lagoon
Hutt Lagoon is situated along the Coral Coast Highway. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

How can I visit? The Hutt Lagoon is up on the Coral Coast near Geraldton.

You can visit it by scenic flight or on a guided visit as part of a tour. You can swim here, but the extra salty water can be uncomfortable.

different shades of pink at Hutt Lagoon
The shades shift depending on the time of year. (Image: Tourism Western Australia / SailorJay)

Other information: Unlike some other lakes, the best time to visit Hutt Lagoon is during the dry season and when the sun is high (no hat no play, people).

the pink marine salt lake at Hutt Lagoon
The marine salt lake gets its incredible pink colour from carotenoid-producing algae. (Image: Tourism Western Australia / SailorJay)

3. Lake MacDonnell, Eyre Peninsula, SA

When is it pink? The best time to see this is from spring to early autumn on particularly sunny days. Possibly South Australia’s most famous pink lake is renowned for its trippy aesthetics – namely that you can drive on a road where one side is bright blue-green and the other is bright pink!

driving through Lake MacDonnell
Embark on a spectacular coastal road trip across Lake MacDonnell. (Image: Tom Cunningham)

How can I visit? Lake MacDonnell is on the remote Eyre Peninsula. However, if you are making a spectacular coastal road trip already, it is located off the Eyre Highway. Once you reach it, there are designated viewing spots.

driving on the road between bright blue-green and bright pink waters
Drive between bright blue-green and bright pink waters. (Image: Jaxon Foale)

Other information: Conserve Lake MacDonnell’s natural beauty. Don’t walk on the lake and disturb the salt crust.

a 4wd driving on the road along Lake MacDonnell
Just off the Eyre Highway, you’ll reach the stunning Lake MacDonnell. (Image: Riley M Williams)

4. Lake Gairdner, Lake Gairdner National Park, SA

When is it pink? Lake Gairdner has an incredibly flat and vast nature that makes for a gorgeously strange outlook. During hot, dry periods when the water evaporates, the lake’s salt crust becomes pinkish due to concentrated salinity and minerals. It’s most vibrant after dry weather conditions and at sunsets and sunrises, it can turn a periwinkle pink.

a person silhouetted against the sunset landscape at Lake Gairdner, SA
Lake Gairdner is absolutely stunning at sunset. (Image: Tom Cowey)

How can I visit? Located within Lake Gairdner National Park, it’s accessible by four-wheel drive. It’s ideal for adventurous travellers who want to explore the vast salt flats. The lake’s best views are during sunrise and sunset when the colours are most intense. You can’t swim in the lake, but it’s a great spot for photography or nature walks.

people exploring Lake Gairdner National Park, SA
Lake Gairdner is Australia’s third-largest salt lake.

Other information: Lake Gairdner is often used for land-speed racing events, so check the calendar if you’re planning a visit. Be prepared for harsh conditions, as it’s located in the outback with little shade or facilities nearby.

the walking track at Lake Gairdner, SA
Lake Gairdner is a great spot for photography or nature walks. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

5. Pink Lakes, Murray Sunset National Park, Vic

When is it pink? The lakes, including Lake Crosbie, Lake Kenyon and Lake Becking, are at their pinkest during late summer and early autumn when the water levels drop and the salinity increases. However, the pink hue can vary throughout the year depending on conditions.

salt crystals at Murray River Salt Lake
Murray River Salt produces crystals under the pastel water.

How can I visit? Murray Sunset National Park is accessible by car, and there are several walking tracks around the pink lakes. The pink lakes can be reached via well-maintained dirt roads, but it’s recommended to check conditions before visiting.

Other information: The best time for photography is during sunrise and sunset when the colours of the lakes and surrounding landscape are most dramatic. Keep in mind, there are no shops or facilities nearby, so come prepared with plenty of water and supplies.

the Murray River Salt Lake in Mildura
Murray River Salt is the country’s only naturally pink salt.

6. Lake Ballard, Goldfields-Esperance, WA

When is it pink? Lake Ballard’s pink hue is most visible during dry periods when the water evaporates, leaving behind a high concentration of salt and minerals. It can take on a subtle pinkish tint depending on the season and water levels.

an aerial view of Lake Ballard, Goldfields-Esperance, WA
See stunning sculptures scattered across the salt flats. (Image: Tourism Western Australia and @apertunity_)

How can I visit? Lake Ballard is located in the remote Goldfields-Esperance area, about 180 kilometres from Kalgoorlie. It’s accessible by 4WD and visitors can walk across the lakebed when it’s dry. The lake is also home to the iconic ‘Inside Australia’ art installation by Antony Gormley, featuring 51 sculptures scattered across the salt flats.

Other information: There are no facilities nearby, so be sure to bring your own water, food and supplies. The remote location means you’ll likely have the lake to yourself, providing a unique outback experience.

the Lake Ballard as seen from above
The remote location of Lake Ballard makes for a unique outback experience. (Image: Tourism Western Australia and @apertunity_)

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7. Carrarang Salt Lakes, Shark Bay, WA

When is it pink? The Carrarang Salt Lakes exhibit their pink hues during dry periods when water evaporates, leaving behind highly saline water and salt crusts that turn pink.

How can I visit? Located on Carrarang Station, these salt lakes are accessible by 4WD and offer a unique opportunity to experience WA’s rugged outback beauty. Visitors can explore the salt lakes on foot and take in the vast, barren landscape.

Other information: The area is remote, so ensure you’re well-prepared with water, food, and supplies. The best time for photography is early morning or late afternoon when the sun casts long shadows, highlighting the lakes’ pink hues.

pink and blue-hued Carrarang Salt Lakes, Shark Bay, WA
Take in the vast, barren landscape of Carrarang Salt Lakes. (Image: Tourism Western Australia and @aeroture_au)

8. Cranbrook Lakes Loop, Great Southern, WA

When is it pink? The lakes in the Cranbrook Lakes Loop tend to show their pink hues during the warmer months when water levels drop, exposing the pinkish salt crusts.

How can I visit? The Cranbrook Lakes Loop is a popular route for those exploring the Great Southern region of Western Australia. The lakes are easily accessible by car, and there are walking trails around the area, making it a scenic and tranquil spot for visitors.

Other information: This region is also known for its wildflower displays in spring, so consider timing your visit to see both the pink lakes and the stunning wildflowers in bloom.

the Pink Lake in Cranbrook
Cranbrook Lakes Loop tend to show their pink hues during the warmer months. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

9. Lake Tyrrell, Mallee, Vic

When is it pink? Most of the year, Lake Tyrrell’s salt flats are a solid blue-grey. during late summer and autumn when the water has mostly evaporated, it can transform into a raspberry-coloured wonderland, drawing photographers to it like no tomorrow.

How can I visit? Lake Tyrrell is located near the town of Sea Lake in Victoria’s Mallee region. It’s accessible by car, and there are several walking tracks and viewing platforms around the lake. The best time for photography is at sunrise or sunset when the colours are most vivid.

Other information: Lake Tyrrell is Victoria’s largest salt lake and offers incredible opportunities for stargazing due to the lack of light pollution. Be sure to pack water and supplies, as the area can be remote with few amenities nearby.

Lake Tyrrell in Victoria
Lake Tyrrell is Victoria’s largest salt lake.

10. Lake Hart, Woomera, SA

When is it pink? This outback lake is covered in a white salt crust, which can develop a pinkish hue if the rainfall and salinity are just right. The lake is not always pink, but when conditions are right, the colours can be stunning.

How can I visit? Lake Hart is easily accessible by car and is located along the Stuart Highway, making it a popular stop for road trippers in South Australia. There is a rest area nearby where visitors can stop, walk around the lake and take photos. You can also see it from the Journey Beyond train, the Indian Pacific.

Other information: Lake Hart is part of the Woomera Prohibited Area, a military zone, so make sure to stay within the designated visitor areas. The surrounding landscape is vast and barren, offering spectacular views. Swimming isn’t permitted due to the high salt content.

the Indian Pacific crossing Lake Hart, Woomera, SA
See Lake Hart from the Journey Beyond train, the Indian Pacific. (Image: Journey Beyond Rail Expeditions)

11. Pithara Salt Lakes, the Wheatbelt, WA

When is it pink? The Pithara Salt Lakes exhibit a pink hue during the drier months when water levels drop and the saline content increases, causing the lakebed to take on a rosy tint.

How can I visit? The Pithara Salt Lakes are located near the town of Pithara in the Wheatbelt region. The lakes are accessible by car, and visitors can explore the surrounding area by foot to experience the salt flats up close.

Other information: Pithara is a quiet rural location, so you’ll likely have the area to yourself. Be sure to bring all the supplies you’ll need, as there are limited facilities nearby.

an aerial view of Pithara Salt Lakes, the Wheatbelt, WA
Pithara Salt Lakes take on a rosy tint when the saline content increases. (Image: Tourism Western Australia and @christianfletcher_gallery)

12. Pink Lakes, Wadjemup/Rottnest Island, WA

When is it pink? Some of the salt lakes on Rottnest Island can turn pink. The pink lakes on Rottnest Island are typically most vibrant during the warmer months, when evaporation increases salinity. The colour can vary throughout the year but tends to be more intense in summer and early autumn.

the Pink Lakes on Rottnest Island
The beautiful pink lakes on Rottnest Island are renowned for diverse wildlife. (Image: Tourism Western Australia and @apertunity_)

How can I visit? Rottnest Island is a short ferry ride from Perth, and the pink lakes are easily accessible by bike or walking once on the island. You can explore the area at your own pace, but swimming is not permitted in the lakes.

the scenic landscape of Rottnest Island as seen from above
The pink lakes are easily accessible by bike or walking on Rottnest Island. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Other information: Rottnest Island is renowned for its wildlife, including the adorable quokkas, so you can combine a visit to the pink lakes with wildlife spotting.

the pink lake at Rottnest Island
The pink lakes on Rottnest Island are more vibrant during the warmer months. (Image: Tourism Australia)

13. Lake Bumbunga, Clare Valley, SA

When is it pink? Fun to say and even more fun to visit: Bumbunga is best seen late spring to early autumn. The saltier it is, the more intense the colours. Rainfall can dull this.

How can I visit? How can I visit? Lake Bumbunga is a hop and a skip from Adelaide, in the wine country of Clare Valley, taking only 1.5 hours to get there. There are designated viewing platforms when you arrive.

an aerial view of Lake Bumbunga, Clare Valley, SA
The saltier it is, the more intense the colours. (Image: Olivia Reynolds)

Other information: Sunrise and sunset are the best times to take photos.

yellowish hues at Lake Bumbunga
Bumbunga is best seen in late spring to early autumn. (Image: Isaac Forman)

14. Lake Warden, Goldfields-Esperance, WA

When is it pink? Lake Warden’s pink hue is more prominent during the warmer months when water levels drop, increasing the lake’s salinity. The colour can fluctuate throughout the year but tends to be most vibrant in summer.

How can I visit? Lake Warden is part of the Lake Warden Wetlands, located near Esperance. The lake is easily accessible by car, and there are walking trails around the area. The lake’s unique colours are particularly striking from elevated viewpoints.

Other information: Lake Warden is an important bird habitat, so keep an eye out for various species while visiting. The wetlands are part of a protected nature reserve, so swimming isn’t allowed. The best time to visit is early morning or late afternoon when the light enhances the lake’s colours and wildlife activity.

a helicopter flying above Lake Warden, Goldfields-Esperance, WA
Fly above the lush greenery surrounding Lake Warden. (Image: Tourism Australia)

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15. Pink Lake Dimboola, Wimmera, Vic

When is it pink? Pink Lake in Dimboola is most vibrant during late summer and autumn, when the water evaporates, concentrating the lake’s salinity and turning the water pink.

How can I visit? Pink Lake is located just outside the town of Dimboola, in Victoria’s Wimmera region. There are walking tracks around the lake where you can enjoy the views of its pink waters.

the Pink Lake in Dimboola
Just outside the town of Dimboola, the lake turns pink when the water evaporates.

Other information: The lake is part of a larger salt pan system, so be sure to explore the surrounding landscape as well.

the Pink Lake in Dimboola
Explore the stunning landscape of the Pink Lake in Dimboola.

16. Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre, SA

When is it pink? As the largest lake and one of the largest salt flats in the world, a visit to the remote wonder of Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre is always worth it. Particularly special times to be here are the rare occasions it floods, attracting swarms of migratory birds and wildlife. It is in these wetter periods that you may see shades of pink.

an aerial view of Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre, SA
Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre is one of the largest salt flats in the world. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

How can I visit? Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre is extremely remote in northern SA. You will need a 4WD when you get closer as the road there is rough and unsealed. Alternatively, scenic flights depart from the surrounding region or you can take a guided tour.

Other information: Let us say one more time: that Kati Thanda is very remote. Prepare with plenty of water, food and any other vital provisions.

a scenic flight above Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre, SA
A visit to the remote wonder of Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre is always worth it. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

17. Lake Gregory, Kimberley, WA

When is it pink? Lake Gregory can display a pinkish hue during the dry season when water levels drop, increasing the lake’s salinity and exposing the pink salt crust.

How can I visit? Lake Gregory is located in the Kimberley region and is accessible by 4WD. The area is remote, but you can explore the salt flats and surrounding bushland on foot for spectacular views.

Other information: The region is rich in Aboriginal culture and history, so consider a guided tour to learn more about the significance of the lake and its surrounding landscapes. Be well-prepared for the remote conditions, as facilities are limited.

an aerial view of Lake Gregory, near Halls Creek
The stunning Lake Gregory is located in the Kimberley region. (Image: Tourism Western Australia and @aeroture_au)

18. The Pink Lake, Goldfields-Esperance, WA

When is it pink? Pink Lake near Esperance once had a distinct pink hue but no longer consistently displays the colour due to environmental changes and reduced salinity. However, there are currently trials to try and restore its pink past.

How can I visit? Pink Lake is just outside the town of Esperance and easily accessible by car. While it no longer displays its famous pink colour regularly, the surrounding area is still worth exploring, with many nearby beaches and natural attractions.

Other information: Pink Lake’s transformation has sparked conservation efforts to try and restore its iconic hue. When visiting Esperance, consider exploring nearby natural attractions like Twilight Beach and Cape Le Grand National Park.

the view of The Pink Lake in Esperance
Pink Lake near Esperance once had a distinct pink hue. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

19. Lake Magic, Hyden, WA

When is it pink? Lake Magic’s pinkish hue is more noticeable during the hot, dry months when water levels drop and the salinity increases. The intensity of the pink can vary, with the colour becoming more pronounced in summer.

the luminous yellow water at Lake Magic as seen from above
Lake Magic changes from eerie whites to luminous yellows. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

How can I visit? Lake Magic is located near the town of Hyden, just a short drive from the famous Wave Rock.

Other information: Although the lake has a high salt content, you can swim in its clear, buoyant waters. Be sure to bring your camera to capture the striking contrast of the pink water against the surrounding landscape.

an aerial view of Lake Magic, Hyden, WA
Lake Magic’s pinkish hue is more noticeable in summer. (Image: Tourism Western Australia and @apertunity_)

20. Westgate Park Lake, Melbourne, Vic

When is it pink? This Port Melbourne lake is more likely to be pink during warmer months, from late spring to early autumn, when it is dry and sunny.

How can I visit? Westgate Park Lake is incredibly close to a large urban population unlike other pink lakes in Australia and is only six kilometres from Melbourne. Due to limited parking, the best way to get here is by bus. You can also walk or cycle here.

Other information: If you want to make an afternoon of it, there are basic facilities here, like picnic areas, viewing platforms and walking paths.

Westgate Park pink lake in Port Melbourne
Westgate Park is more likely to be pink during warmer months. (Image: Parks Victoria)

21. Quairading Pink Lake, the Wheatbelt, WA

When is it pink? The colour fluctuates, depending on the time of year and the salinity levels. On hot days, the algae that turn it pink are more likely to be active.

driving through Quairading Pink Lake, the Wheatbelt, WA
Quairading Pink Lake is just a 2.5-hour drive from Perth. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

How can I visit? The lake is a 2.5-hour drive from Perth, making it relatively accessible compared to Australia’s other pink lakes. Once you’re there you can DIY your experience by heading to a viewing point, or you can take a local tour for a more in-depth background.

an aerial view of a car driving on the road along Quairading Pink Lake
Quairading Pink Lake is an enchanting sight to see. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Other information: While the lake can turn to vivid hues, this isn’t always the case and depends on conditions.

With their surreal beauty and vibrant hues, Australia’s pink lakes offer a unique and unforgettable experience. Whether you’re a photographer, nature enthusiast or just in search of something spectacular, these lakes are waiting to enchant you.

the Quairading Pink Lake, the Wheatbelt, WA as seen from above
The lake can turn to vivid hues depending on the conditions. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

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Kate Bettes
Kate Bettes is a freelance travel writer. Whether having a picnic in Vietnamese jungle with new friends, or partying in the back of a limousine in Hollywood, Kate’s experiences have left her with the sneaking suspicion that the best travel memories happen when you least expect. It’s this feeling - and how to get it - that she loves to write about.
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Inside Geelong’s glow-up from factory town to creative capital

    Chloe Cann Chloe Cann
    Abandoned mills and forgotten paper plants are finding second lives – and helping redefine a city long underestimated. 

    Just 15 years ago, Federal Mills was a very different place. Once among the most significant industrial sites in Victoria, the historic woollen mill was one of a dozen that operated in Geelong at the industry’s peak in the mid-20th century, helping the city earn its title as ‘wool centre of the world’. But by the 1960s global competition and the rise of synthetic fabrics led to the slow decline of the industry, and Federal Mills finally shuttered its doors in 2001. Within a few years, the abandoned North Geelong grounds had become makeshift pastoral land, with cows and goats grazing among the overgrown grass between the empty red-brick warehouses. It was a forgotten pocket of the city, all but two klicks from the bustle of the CBD.  

    Geelong cellar door wine bar
    Geelong has shed its industrial identity to become an innovative urban hub with reimagined heritage spaces. (Image: Ash Hughes)

    Federal Mills: from forgotten factory to creative precinct 

    Today, the century-old complex stands reborn. The distinctive sawtooth-roof buildings have been sensitively restored. An old silo is splashed with a bright floral mural, landscapers have transformed the grounds, and the precinct is once again alive with activity. More than 1000 people work across 50-plus businesses here. It’s so busy, in fact, that on a sunny Thursday morning in the thick of winter, it’s hard to find a car park. The high ceilings, open-plan design, and large multi-paned windows – revolutionary features for factories of their time – have again become a drawcard.  

    Paddock Bakery andPatisserie
    Paddock Bakery and Patisserie is housed within the historic wool factory. (Image: Gallant Lee)

    At Paddock, one of the precinct’s newer tenants, weaving looms and dye vats have been replaced by a wood-fired brick oven and heavy-duty mixers. Open since April 2024, the bakery looks right at home here; the building’s industrial shell is softened by ivy climbing its steel frames, and sunlight streams through the tall windows. Outside, among the white cedar trees, families at picnic benches linger over dippy eggs and bagels, while white-collar workers pass in and out, single-origin coffee and crème brûlée doughnuts in hand. 

    Geelong: Australia’s only UNESCO City of Design 

    Paddock Bakery
    Paddock Bakery can be found at Federal Mills. (Image: Gallant Lee)

    “A lot of people are now seeing the merit of investing in Geelong,” says Paul Traynor, the head of Hamilton Hospitality Group, which redeveloped Federal Mills. A city once shunned as Sleepy Hollow, and spurned for its industrial, working-class roots and ‘rust belt’ image, Geelong has long since reclaimed its ‘Pivot City’ title, having reinvented itself as an affordable, lifestyle-driven satellite city, and a post-COVID migration hotspot.  

    And the numbers stand testament to the change. In March 2025, and for the first time in its history, Greater Geelong became Australia’s most popular regional town for internal migration, overtaking Queensland’s Sunshine Coast. Current forecasts suggest Geelong will continue to outpace many other Australian cities and towns, with jobs growing at double the rate of the population.

    Tourism is booming, too. The 2023-24 financial year was Geelong and The Bellarine region’s busiest on record, with 6.4 million visitors making it one of the fastest-growing destinations in the country. It’s not hard to see why: beyond the city’s prime positioning at the doorstep of the Great Ocean Road, Geelong’s tenacity and cultural ambition stands out.  

    As Australia’s only UNESCO City of Design, Geelong is swiftly shaking off its industrial past to become a model for urban renewal, innovation, sustainability and creative communities. The signs are everywhere, from the revitalisation of the city’s waterfront, and the landmark design of the Geelong Library and Heritage Centre and Geelong Arts Centre, to the growing network of local designers, architects and artists, and the burgeoning roster of festivals and events. That’s not even mentioning the adaptive reuse of storied old industrial buildings – from Federal Mills, to Little Creatures’ brewery ‘village’ housed within a 1920s textile mill – or the city’s flourishing food and wine scene.  

    The rise of a food and wine destination  

    boiler house
    Restaurant 1915 is housed within a restored former boiler house. (Image: Harry Pope/Two Palms)

    Traynor credits now-closed local restaurant Igni, which opened in 2016, as the turning point for Geelong’s hospo industry. “[Aaron Turner, Igni’s chef-patron] was probably the first guy, with all due respect, to raise the bar food-wise for Geelong,” he says. “People now treat it really seriously, and there’s clearly a market for it.” While Igni is gone, Turner now helms a string of other notable Geelong venues, including The Hot Chicken Project and Tacos y Liquor, all within the buzzy, street art-speckled laneways of the CBD’s Little Malop Street Precinct. Many others have also popped up in Igni’s wake, including Federal Mills’ own restaurant, 1915. Housed within the cavernous boiler house, 1915’s interior is dramatic: soaring, vaulted ceilings with timber beams, exposed brick, a huge arched window. The share plates echo the space’s bold character, playing with contrast and texture, with dishes such as a compressed watermelon tataki, the sweet, juicy squares tempered by salty strands of fried leeks, and charred, smoky snow peas dusted with saganaki on a nutty bed of romesco. 

    Woolstore
    The Woolstore is a new restaurant and bar housed within a century-old warehouse. (Image: Amy Carlon)

     The Woolstore, one of The Hamilton Group’s most recent hospo projects, opened in February. It occupies a century-old riverside warehouse and exudes a more sultry, fine dining ambience. Much like Federal Mills, the blueprint was to preserve the original brickwork, tallowwood flooring and nods to the building’s former life. That same careful consideration extends to the well-versed, affable waitstaff as well as the kitchen. Head chef Eli Grubb is turning out an eclectic mix of ambitious and indulgent mod Oz dishes that deliver: strikingly tender skewers of chicken tsukune, infused with hints of smoke from the parrilla grill, and glazed with a moreish, sweet gochujang ‘jam’; nduja arancini fragrant with hints of aniseed and the earthy lick of sunny saffron aioli; and golden squares of potato pavé, adorned with tiny turrets of crème fraîche, crisp-fried saltbush leaves, and Avruga caviar, to name but a few stand-out dishes.  

    Woolstore menu
    Woolstore’s menu is designed for sharing.

    Breathing new life into historic spaces  

    On the city’s fringe, hidden down a winding side road with little fanfare, lies a long-dormant site that’s being gently revived. Built from locally quarried bluestone and brick, and dating back to the 1870s, the complex of original tin-roofed mill buildings is lush with greenery and backs onto the Barwon River and Buckley Falls; the audible rush of water provides a soothing soundtrack. Fyansford Paper Mill is one of few complexes of its time to survive intact. It feels steeped in history and spellbindingly rustic.  

    “We were looking for an old industrial place that had some charm and romance to it,” explains Sam Vogel, the owner, director and winemaker at Provenance Wines which moved here in 2018. When he first viewed the building with his former co-owner, it was in such a state of disrepair that the tradie tenant occupying the space had built a shed within it to escape the leaking roof and freezing winter temperatures. “To say it was run down would be an understatement,” he notes. “There was ivy growing through the place; the windows were all smashed. It was a classic Grand Designs project.” 

    Provenance Wines
    Provenance Wines moved to Fyansford Paper Mill in 2018. (Image: Cameron Murray Photography)

    The team has since invested more than a million dollars into their new home. Where paper processing machinery once sat, wine barrels are now stacked. Vaulted cathedral ceilings are strung with festoon lights, and hidden in plain sight lies a shadowy mural by local street artist de rigueur Rone – one of only three permanent works by the artist.

    While the award-winning, cool-climate pinot noir, riesling and chardonnay naturally remain a key draw at Provenance, the winery’s restaurant is a destination in itself. Impressed already by whipsmart service, I devour one of the most cleverly curated and faultlessly executed degustations I’ve had in some time. It’s all prepared in a kitchen that is proudly zero-waste, and committed to providing seasonal, ethical and locally sourced meat and produce under head chef Nate McIver. Think free-range venison served rare with a syrupy red wine jus and a half-moon of neon-orange kosho, shokupan with a deeply savoury duck fat jus (a modern Japanese take on bread and drippings), and a golden potato cake adorned with a colourful confetti of dehydrated nasturtiums and tomato powder, and planted atop a sea urchin emulsion.  

    handcrafted pieces
    Bell’s handcrafted functional pieces on display.

    The complex is home to a coterie of independent businesses, including a gallery, a jeweller, and its latest tenant, ceramicist Elizabeth Bell, drawn here by the building’s “soul”. “There’s so much potential for these buildings to have new life breathed into them,” says Bell, whose studio is housed within the old pump room. “Even people in Geelong don’t know we’re here,” she says. “It’s definitely a destination, but I like that. It has a really calming atmosphere.”  

    A Melbourne transplant, Bell now feels at home in Geelong, which offers something Melbourne didn’t. “If this business was in Melbourne I don’t think it would’ve been as successful,” she notes. “It’s very collaborative in Geelong, and I don’t think you get that as much in Melbourne; you’re a bit more in it for yourself. Here it’s about community over competition.”  

    Elizabeth Bell
    Ceramicist Elizabeth Bell has a store in Fyansford Paper Mill.