Ultimate weekends away in Victoria

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A weekend in Victoria offers the chance to indulge in the state’s best bits including fresh country air and heritage charm. Here, the best weekends away in Victoria for your hit list.

Loch

Located in the rolling, lush farming countryside of South Gippsland in ‘Prom Country’, Loch is the kind of delightful small town that Victoria does as stock-and-trade.

 

An easy drive from Melbourne, the township was bypassed back in 2008, which led to a revival of quaint here. The main street is infinitely strollable, passing by small shops filled with antiques and collectibles and cosy cafes like Udder & Hoe.

Udder & Hoe, Loch.
Udder & Hoe, Loch.

Basing yourself in Loch also allows you to sample the wares of the craft breweries, distilleries and wineries that thrive in the area.

town of Loch is the heart of Gippsland.
The quaint town of Loch is the heart of Gippsland.

Dunkeld

With a population that hovers well under the 1000 mark, Dunkeld is a picture-perfect town that is also a gateway to the impressive scenery and nature of the Southern Grampians.

 

Divide your days into nature-based pursuits in the morning like hiking the mammoth forms of Wurgarri (Mt Sturgeon), Mud-Dadjug (Mt Abrupt) or Bainggug (the Piccaninny) to absorb panoramic views of the Southern Grampian range, and then spend the afternoon wandering the Dunkeld Arboretum walking track and browsing the shops along the main street before retiring to the Royal Mail Hotel to sample its acclaimed menu (you can – and should – stay here, too).

Clunes

This former gold rush town in Hepburn Shire holds the distinction of being an internationally recognised Book Town, one of only 15 in the world along with the likes of Montereggio in Italy and Ingstrup in Denmark.

 

The title comes into its own with the staging of the annual book festival; this year’s month-long Turn the Page event will see author talks, panel discussions and workshops held over two weekends in May.

 

Outside of this, the town is a gem to discover, with much of its gold rush architecture – such as the Clunes Town Hall – wonderfully preserved.

Clune's Town Hall, Victoria.
Clune’s Town Hall, Victoria.

Mildura

Sitting proudly on the mighty Murray River near its junction with the Darling, the fertile soils around Mildura have earned it an enviable reputation for fruit growing, from the juicy citrus variety to the ones you can make seriously good wine out of.

 

Sample the fruits of the city’s labour (pun intended) at any of the restaurants and bars dotted along Langtree Avenue, or go straight to the source at the cellar doors, farm gates and roadside stalls scattered throughout the region.

 

Fuel up on coffee and bagels slathered with local avocado at Nash Lane before riding one of the vintage paddle steamers that cruise the distinctive brown waters of the Murray.

Nash Lane, Mildura.
Nash Lane, Mildura.

Metung

The peaceful waterfront village of Metung is a bit of a secret gem of the East Gippsland region for interstaters, but Victorians love it come holiday time.

 

Find out what they know by visiting to soak up the lazy village atmosphere, swim, fish and boat its calm waters and enjoy the local produce and fresh seafood that is in plentiful supply; plan your trip to coincide with the farmers’ market, held on the second Saturday of the month.

 

Finish each day here walking the boardwalk before scoring a table at a nearby café with a glass of something dry and fruity in hand.

Metung on the Gippsland Lakes.
Metung on the Gippsland Lakes.

Halls Gap

If your idea of the perfect weekend away involves less lounging and more adrenalin, then Halls Gap is for you.

 

Right in the heart of Grampians (Gariwerd) National Park, days here can be filled with everything from abseiling to bushwalking, rock climbing and cycling, before heading back to the village for great coffee and food at any of its cafes and restaurants.

Lookout over Halls Gap.
Lookout over Halls Gap.

For those who like to take things a bit slower, try a Grampians wine tour or discover the Aboriginal rock art at Gulgurn Manja that tells the stories of the local Jarwadjali people.

 

Play ‘Paper Scissors Rock’ to determine designated driver before visiting the microbrewery of the same name and checking into your dinky Dulc cabin.

Halls Gap Paper Scissors Rock
Paper Scissors Rock Brew Co., Halls Gap.
A dinky Dulc cabin in Halls Gap.
A dinky Dulc cabin in Halls Gap.

Queenscliff

The history and attractions of the Bellarine Peninsula town of Queenscliff belie its size and general laid-back demeanour.

 

Its position at the entrance to Port Phillip bestowed the town with strategic importance in times gone by, leaving behind a historic fort that you can visit as part of a guided tour, and its distinctive black stone lighthouse – Queenscliff High Light – which is one of only three black lighthouses in the world.

 

Weekenders should also tick off a visit to the town’s pier, built in 1884, a shopping expedition around its galleries and antique shops, and a snorkelling expedition to swim with the sea lions that dash and dart through the waters offshore.

Queenscliff streetscape.
Queenscliff streetscape.

Trentham

Another gem of a town in Hepburn Shire, Trentham boasts lovely tree-lined streets and a thriving local food scene.

 

The latter is not surprising considering the rich volcanic soil of the Great Dividing Range is the perfect base for growing all manner of produce – from chestnuts to olives and fruit. But it is the humble spud that is the star here, with many considering Trentham potatoes to be the best around.

 

The town also has an award-winning bakery – Red Beard Bakery – that produces crunchy, tangy sourdough you are going to want to take away with you.

 

While here, make time to walk to Trentham Falls – it will help work off the bread and potatoes!

Healesville

This Yarra Valley town and its surrounds are home to a divergent roster of attractions, from verdant national parks to manicured vineyards to a statement-making art gallery with a sharp, modern design that sits in pleasing contrast to the rolling hills of the countryside it looks out at.

 

Plan to fill a few days here by sampling all of these: wander through the Rainforest Gallery in Yarra Ranges National Park and climb the stairs to its vertiginous observation platform; hit up the cellar doors at TarraWarra Estate and nearby Oakridge Wines; spend an hour or two browsing the art at TarraWarra Museum of Art.

 

And, while you are in town, it would be remiss of you not to pop into Four Pillars Distillery, which has put the Victorian township on the gin map.

Melbourne

Melbourne has long topped the list as an ideal city to dash to for a quick break filled with shopping, eating and exploring.

 

Add headlining sporting events, abundant galleries and museums and big-name theatre productions and you still haven’t scratched the surface.

 

The best thing to do is book a flight now and add to the list yourself.

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Meet the makers shaping Ballarat’s new era of creativity

Makers, bakers, artists, chefs, crafters – Ballarat and its surrounds are overflowing with creative spirits. All dedicated to keeping traditional skills alive for a city that is humming with artful energy.

Modern makers: a new generation of artists and artisans

“Keeping craft alive is a noble cause,” says Jess Cameron-Wootten, a charming and passionate master leathercrafter and cordwainer, who handmakes traditional leather boots and shoes in Ballarat’s old Gun Cotton Goods Store.

Ballarat was recognised in 2019 as a UNESCO Creative City of Craft and Folk Art, and today it’s a place where craft traditions converge with contemporary needs. Nothing quite captures this convergence as a visit to Wootten , the workshop and store of Jess Cameron-Wootten and his partner Krystina Menegazzo.

heritage buildings in Ballarat
Ballarat’s streets are lined with heritage buildings. (Image: Matt Dunne)

Jess’s father was an artisan bootmaker, or cordwainer. Now Jess and Krys and their small team of artisans continue the tradition, but with a modern spin. The company’s boots and shoes, made completely from scratch, are renowned for their quality and longevity. Wootten also craft shoes, bags, belts, leather aprons, wallets and more.

Cosy beanies, gloves, alpaca socks, “unbreakable” shoelaces and various other goods – many from local craftspeople and small-scale makers – fill the shop’s shelves. “We’re always happy to support a mate,” says Jess. “People love to see the workshop and where things are made. Our clients care about quality and sustainability,” Krys comments. The company slogan ‘Made for generations’ says it all.

Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery
Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery. (Image: Tara Moore)

For Ruby Pilven, craft is also in the DNA – both her parents were potters and with her latest porcelain ceramics, Ruby’s young daughter has been helping add colour to the glazes. “I grew up watching my parents in the workshop – I’ve always been doing ceramics,” she says, although her Visual Arts degree was in printmaking. That printmaking training comes through particularly in the rich layering of pattern. Her audacious colour, unexpected shapes and sudden pops of 12-carat gold are contemporary, quirky – and joyful.

You can see Ruby’s handcrafted ceramics, and work by other local and regional artists, at Ross Creek Gallery , a light-filled space surrounded by serene bushland, across from the mudbrick house her parents built in the 1980s. A 10-minute drive from Ballarat, it’s a tangible link to the region’s well-established craft traditions.

How Ballarat is preserving the past

artisans making crafts at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat
The Centre for Rare Arts & Forgotten Trades holds workshops to preserve crafts and skills.

While tradition is ongoing, there’s a danger that many of these specific type of skills and knowledge are fading as an older generation passes on. Step forward the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades .

The seven purpose-built studios occupy a fabulous modern building adjacent to Sovereign Hill, with state-of-the-art facilities, enormous windows and landscape views across to Warrenheip and Wadawurrung Country.

artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat
Check out artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.

Practising artisans run hands-on workshops. Fancy making your own medieval armour? Or trying your hand at blacksmithing, spinning wool, plaiting leather, weaving cane or craft a knife? Book a class and learn how. “It’s about creating awareness and also sharing knowledge and skills before they are lost,” explains Deborah Klein, the centre manager.

A city steeped in food and flavours

Chef José Fernandez preparing American streetfood at Pancho
Chef José Fernandez creates vibrant South American street food at Pancho. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

One skill that hasn’t been lost is that of cooking. Ballarat’s burgeoning gastronomy scene runs the gamut from an artisan bakery (the atmospheric 1816 Bakehouse) to cool coffee shops, speakeasy cocktail bars and distilleries to fine-dining venues. But I’m still surprised to find Pancho , José Fernandez’s South American street food restaurant, serving fried cheese tequeños, fiery fish tacos, Argentinian grilled chicken.

The room is as lively as the food – a whirl of colour filled with gifted and thrifted paintings, photos, tchotchkes (trinkets), plants. There’s a Mexican abuela aesthetic going on here. Even before the music and mezcal kick in, it’s fun. Heads up on the drinks menu – an authentic selection of mezcal, tequila, South American wines and Mexican cerveza.

a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits, Ballarat
Enjoy a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

The spirit is willing, so after lunch we head towards the gold rush-era Ballarat train station and across the line to the old 1860s Goods Shed for Itinerant Spirits . At one end, a massive German copper still looms behind a wall of glass. The fit-out embraces deep olive-green tones, original bluestone walls, steamer trunks as coffee tables, heritage timber floors, oversized lamp shades and cognac-hued modernist leather seating.

the Itinerant Spirits Distillery & Cocktail Bar, Ballarat
The distillery operates from an old goods shed. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Gallivanter Gin, Vansetter Vodka and Wayfarer Whiskey – the key spirits distilled – star at the bar. The spirits are crafted using grains from the Wimmera Mallee region, and native botanicals foraged in the Grampians. Seasonal cocktails are inspired by local people and places (I loved The Headland, inspired by Sovereign Hill and flavoured with old-fashioned raspberry drops). Sample the spirits, and join a cocktail masterclass or a distillery tour. It’s a seductive setting – you’ll likely find yourself ordering a charcuterie platter or pizza as the evening progresses.

The Ballarat stay combining history and luxury

one of the rooms at Hotel Vera, Ballarat
The rooms at Hotel Vera have a contemporary style. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

New lives for old buildings keeps history alive. Vera, Ballarat’s boutique five-star hotel, has taken it to the next level: it’s a palimpsest, a subtle layering of early 1900s and 1930s Art Deco architecture with a sleek new wing. There are seven spacious suites, each a dramatically different colour, with designer chairs, blissful bathrooms. High-end pottery and hand-picked artworks imbue the spaces with personality.

Vera’s intimate, award-winning restaurant, Babae, is subtly theatrical with sheer drapes and gallery lighting, its bespoke timber furniture and brass-edged marble bench setting the stage for food with a sharp regional focus. “We have goat’s cheese from a local supplier, handmade granola from local Vegas & Rose, truffles from nearby Black Cat Truffles, fresh food from our garden, and regional wines,” says joint owner David Cook-Doulton.

Celebrating the local makers, bakers, growers and producers, and the master chefs who work their magic is all part of the rich tapestry that links Ballarat’s history to its vibrant present.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

It’s 90 minutes from Melbourne, either on the Western Freeway, or hop on a V/Line train from Southern Cross Station.

Staying there

Hotel Vera is a centrally located Art Deco boutique hotel. Consider Hotel Provincial , which feels like a sleek country house, but with its own restaurant, Lola.

a contemporary room at Hotel Provincial, Ballarat
Hotel Provincial has country house vibes.

Eating there

dining at Mr Jones, Ballarat
The table is set at Mr Jones. (Image: Tony Evans/ Visit Victoria)

Culinary whiz Damien Jones helms Chef’s Hat winner Mr Jones Dining with quiet assurance. His modern Asian food is deceptively simple with deep, intense flavours. Low-key, laid-back ambience, lovely staff, thoughtful wine list.

Cocktails are definitely a thing in Ballarat. Reynard (fox in French) is foxy indeed, a clubby space with top-notch cocktails and small bites. Grainery Lane is extravagantly OTT with its massive 1880s bar, myriad chandeliers, brass gin still, Asian-inspired food and lavish cocktails.

dining at Grainery Lane, Ballarat
Dining at Grainery Lane.

Playing there

a laneway filled with artworks in Ballarat
An artful laneway in the city. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Check out local design legend Travis Price’s wall murals in Hop Lane with its colourful canopy of brollies, or in Main Street. The Art Gallery of Ballarat’s off-site Backspace Gallery showcases early-career artists in a stylish, contemporary space. First Nations-owned and run Perridak Arts connects people to place, bringing together art and crafts in this gallery/shop.

a woman admiring artworks at Perridak Arts Gallery
Perridak Arts is a First Nations-run gallery. (Image: Tony Evans)

The wineries of the Pyrenees are close at hand with their welcoming cellar doors and robust reds. Join a behind-the-scenes tour at the Centre for Gold Rush Collections .

Dalwhinnie Wines in the Pyrenees
Dalwhinnie Wines in the Pyrenees.

Don’t forget the giant bluestone Kryal Castle , ‘the land of adventure’, for a little medieval magic, and not just for the kids: get ready for Highland-style feasting, jousting, even overnight stays.