Ultimate weekends away in Victoria

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A weekend in Victoria offers the chance to indulge in the state’s best bits including fresh country air and heritage charm. Here, the best weekends away in Victoria for your hit list.

Loch

Located in the rolling, lush farming countryside of South Gippsland in ‘Prom Country’, Loch is the kind of delightful small town that Victoria does as stock-and-trade.

 

An easy drive from Melbourne, the township was bypassed back in 2008, which led to a revival of quaint here. The main street is infinitely strollable, passing by small shops filled with antiques and collectibles and cosy cafes like Udder & Hoe.

Udder & Hoe, Loch.
Udder & Hoe, Loch.

Basing yourself in Loch also allows you to sample the wares of the craft breweries, distilleries and wineries that thrive in the area.

town of Loch is the heart of Gippsland.
The quaint town of Loch is the heart of Gippsland.

Dunkeld

With a population that hovers well under the 1000 mark, Dunkeld is a picture-perfect town that is also a gateway to the impressive scenery and nature of the Southern Grampians.

 

Divide your days into nature-based pursuits in the morning like hiking the mammoth forms of Wurgarri (Mt Sturgeon), Mud-Dadjug (Mt Abrupt) or Bainggug (the Piccaninny) to absorb panoramic views of the Southern Grampian range, and then spend the afternoon wandering the Dunkeld Arboretum walking track and browsing the shops along the main street before retiring to the Royal Mail Hotel to sample its acclaimed menu (you can – and should – stay here, too).

Clunes

This former gold rush town in Hepburn Shire holds the distinction of being an internationally recognised Book Town, one of only 15 in the world along with the likes of Montereggio in Italy and Ingstrup in Denmark.

 

The title comes into its own with the staging of the annual book festival; this year’s month-long Turn the Page event will see author talks, panel discussions and workshops held over two weekends in May.

 

Outside of this, the town is a gem to discover, with much of its gold rush architecture – such as the Clunes Town Hall – wonderfully preserved.

Clune's Town Hall, Victoria.
Clune’s Town Hall, Victoria.

Mildura

Sitting proudly on the mighty Murray River near its junction with the Darling, the fertile soils around Mildura have earned it an enviable reputation for fruit growing, from the juicy citrus variety to the ones you can make seriously good wine out of.

 

Sample the fruits of the city’s labour (pun intended) at any of the restaurants and bars dotted along Langtree Avenue, or go straight to the source at the cellar doors, farm gates and roadside stalls scattered throughout the region.

 

Fuel up on coffee and bagels slathered with local avocado at Nash Lane before riding one of the vintage paddle steamers that cruise the distinctive brown waters of the Murray.

Nash Lane, Mildura.
Nash Lane, Mildura.

Metung

The peaceful waterfront village of Metung is a bit of a secret gem of the East Gippsland region for interstaters, but Victorians love it come holiday time.

 

Find out what they know by visiting to soak up the lazy village atmosphere, swim, fish and boat its calm waters and enjoy the local produce and fresh seafood that is in plentiful supply; plan your trip to coincide with the farmers’ market, held on the second Saturday of the month.

 

Finish each day here walking the boardwalk before scoring a table at a nearby café with a glass of something dry and fruity in hand.

Metung on the Gippsland Lakes.
Metung on the Gippsland Lakes.

Halls Gap

If your idea of the perfect weekend away involves less lounging and more adrenalin, then Halls Gap is for you.

 

Right in the heart of Grampians (Gariwerd) National Park, days here can be filled with everything from abseiling to bushwalking, rock climbing and cycling, before heading back to the village for great coffee and food at any of its cafes and restaurants.

Lookout over Halls Gap.
Lookout over Halls Gap.

For those who like to take things a bit slower, try a Grampians wine tour or discover the Aboriginal rock art at Gulgurn Manja that tells the stories of the local Jarwadjali people.

 

Play ‘Paper Scissors Rock’ to determine designated driver before visiting the microbrewery of the same name and checking into your dinky Dulc cabin.

Halls Gap Paper Scissors Rock
Paper Scissors Rock Brew Co., Halls Gap.
A dinky Dulc cabin in Halls Gap.
A dinky Dulc cabin in Halls Gap.

Queenscliff

The history and attractions of the Bellarine Peninsula town of Queenscliff belie its size and general laid-back demeanour.

 

Its position at the entrance to Port Phillip bestowed the town with strategic importance in times gone by, leaving behind a historic fort that you can visit as part of a guided tour, and its distinctive black stone lighthouse – Queenscliff High Light – which is one of only three black lighthouses in the world.

 

Weekenders should also tick off a visit to the town’s pier, built in 1884, a shopping expedition around its galleries and antique shops, and a snorkelling expedition to swim with the sea lions that dash and dart through the waters offshore.

Queenscliff streetscape.
Queenscliff streetscape.

Trentham

Another gem of a town in Hepburn Shire, Trentham boasts lovely tree-lined streets and a thriving local food scene.

 

The latter is not surprising considering the rich volcanic soil of the Great Dividing Range is the perfect base for growing all manner of produce – from chestnuts to olives and fruit. But it is the humble spud that is the star here, with many considering Trentham potatoes to be the best around.

 

The town also has an award-winning bakery – Red Beard Bakery – that produces crunchy, tangy sourdough you are going to want to take away with you.

 

While here, make time to walk to Trentham Falls – it will help work off the bread and potatoes!

Healesville

This Yarra Valley town and its surrounds are home to a divergent roster of attractions, from verdant national parks to manicured vineyards to a statement-making art gallery with a sharp, modern design that sits in pleasing contrast to the rolling hills of the countryside it looks out at.

 

Plan to fill a few days here by sampling all of these: wander through the Rainforest Gallery in Yarra Ranges National Park and climb the stairs to its vertiginous observation platform; hit up the cellar doors at TarraWarra Estate and nearby Oakridge Wines; spend an hour or two browsing the art at TarraWarra Museum of Art.

 

And, while you are in town, it would be remiss of you not to pop into Four Pillars Distillery, which has put the Victorian township on the gin map.

Melbourne

Melbourne has long topped the list as an ideal city to dash to for a quick break filled with shopping, eating and exploring.

 

Add headlining sporting events, abundant galleries and museums and big-name theatre productions and you still haven’t scratched the surface.

 

The best thing to do is book a flight now and add to the list yourself.

This scenic Victorian region is the perfect antidote to city life

Video credit: Visit Victoria/Tourism Australia

The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd . In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.

Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.

‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.

Exchanging city chaos for country calm

kangaroos near Halls Gap, Grampians National Park
The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.

I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.

The trails and treasures of the Grampians

sunrise at Grampians National Park /Gariwerd
Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)

Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.

Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles . I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.

walking through a cave, Hollow Mountain
Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)

There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail , Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.

Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.

“There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.

wildflowers in Grampians National Park
Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.

Grampians National Park at sunset
Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)

The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.

What else is on offer in The Grampians?

a boat travelling along the Wimmera River inDimboola
Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)

You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.

And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region ? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).

dining at Pomonal Estate
Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.

The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.

Salingers of Great Western
Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)

There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.

The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.

Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.

And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.

Kookaburras on a tree
Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)

You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity .

Playing there

abseiling down Hollow Mountain
Hollow Mountain is a popular abseiling site.

Go abseiling under the stars or join a guided hike with Absolute Outdoors . Visit Wama , Australia’s first environmental art centre. Check out Dimboola’s eccentric Imaginarium .

Eating there

steak, naan bread and beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap serves a great steak on naan bread.

Eat world-class cuisine at Pomonal Estate . Dine and stay at much-revered icon Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. The ‘steak on naan’ at Halls Gap brewhouse Paper Scissors Rock , can’t be beat.

Dunkeld Arboretum in Grampians National Park
The serene Dunkeld Arboretum.

For Halls Gap’s best breakfasts head to Livefast Cafe . Sip local wines at Great Western’s historic wineries, Best’s Wines , Seppelt Wines and Norton Estate Wines .

two glasses of beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
Sink a cold one at Paper Scissors Rock.