Winter is the sweet spot for exploring Victoria’s Murray to Mountains Rail Trail, with crisp riding conditions, colourful crowd-free landscapes and plenty of gourmet pit stops along the way.
With autumn foliage still burning bright and clear winter skies settling in, now is the ideal time to layer up and embark on a cycling adventure through Victoria’s High Country. Having completed an $8.5 million upgrade in September 2025, the Murray to Mountains Rail Trail is safer, more scenic and spectacular than ever.
The sealed, off-road trail is a 137-kilometre cycling route linking the vibrant towns of Wangaratta, Beechworth, Rutherglen, Bright and Myrtleford in Victoria’s north-east.
Pass through historic townships. (Credit: Tourism North East/Karen Webb)
Your days will be spent gliding through boulevards of towering golden poplars, pedalling past cow-dotted fields along decommissioned rail tracks and discovering the historic gold rush towns of north-east Victoria. Stop in at small-batch cellar doors, gourmet restaurants and honey shops for a taste of the region’s top-notch produce, and enjoy the wide-open scenery you’ll essentially have all to yourself.
Backed by $8.5 million in funding from the Victorian government, the new development added a 32-kilometre extension connecting Beechworth to Yackandandah, as well as safety enhancements including nine new bridges, an elevated boardwalk and improved signage.
Discover the colourful streets of Bright by bike.
Discover new art along the trail, such as in Myrtleford. (Credit: Tourism North East/Karen Webb)
Stop in at Milawa Cheese Company.
The upgrade also included the addition of art installations and silo murals that celebrate the stories of Victorian artists, creating memorable ‘must-see’ moments along the journey. On top of this, park landscaping and nature play areas invite deeper connection to the surrounding scenery.
Suitable for families, couples and friends, the trail is graded as ‘easy’ and is mostly flat, with sealed surfaces and wheelchair-accessible segments. You can complete smaller sections as shorter daytime adventures or check into accommodations along the way for a longer journey. Many people tackle the rail trail as a self-guided trip; however, you can also book a guided tour for ease of mind and fuss-free logistics.
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Highlights of the Murray to Mountains Rail Trail
The trail is perfect for families. (Credit: Tourism North East/Karen Webb)
Whether you’re into fine wines and farm-fresh produce or outdoor exploration, there are abundant things to do along the Murray to Mountains Rail Trail. Here are our top picks.
Milawa Gourmet Region: Savour the flavours of the region at the hatted Brown Brothers Restaurant, Milawa Cheese Company and Hurdle Creek Still distillery.
Mountain vistas: Admire majestic Mount Buffalo, along with Feathertop and Hotham in the distance, on the scenic pedal from Bright to Myrtleford. And keep your eyes peeled for the occasional echidna!
Red wines: Taste your way through Rutherglen’s rustic and boutique cellar doors, experiencing its famous muscat and red wines at stops such as Olive Hills Estate, Stanton and Killeen Wines and Anderson Winery.
Don’t miss cycling along scenic Ovens River.
Stop in the town of Bright: This adorable town is rich in scenic parks, gold rush history and charming cafes. It’s also home to the stunning Ovens River.
Birdwatching: Spot parrots, wrens and magpies along the Bowser to Tarrawingee section of the trail, where you’ll also find Emily Floyd’s Magpie Family artwork.
New art installations: Located in Rutherglen, Tarrawingee, Porepunkah, Eurobin and between Oxley & Milawa, these new artworks and sculptures bring colour, narrative discovery and topics of discussion to the trail.
Historic Beechworth: Sip craft beer, take a tour of Old Beechworth Gaol and wander heritage streetscapes.
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Eleanor Edström is Australian Traveller’s Associate Editor. Previously a staff writer at Signature Luxury Travel & Style and Vacations & Travel magazines, she's a curious wordsmith with a penchant for conservation, adventure, the arts and design. She discovered her knack for storytelling much earlier, however – penning mermaid sagas in glitter ink at age seven. Proof that her spelling has since improved, she holds an honours degree in English and philosophy, and a French diploma from the University of Sydney. Off duty, you’ll find her pirouetting between Pilates and ballet classes, or hunting down Sydney's cosiest cafes.
Victoria’s ‘mussel capital’ is the source of exceptional shellfish used by top chefs far and wide. Step aboard a beautifully refurbished trawler to see how these plump and juicy bivalves are sustainably cultivated.
A curtain is slowly winched from the placid, teal waters just off Portarlington, like a floating garland beside our boat. The ropes heave with blue mussels, the star attraction of our tour. But as we reach to pluck our own, it’s quickly clear they’re not alone; a mass of weird and wonderful creatures has colonised the ropes, turning them into a living tapestry. ‘Fairy’ oysters, jelly-like sea squirts, and tiny, wriggling skeleton shrimp all inhabit this underwater ecosystem.
We prize our bivalve bounty from the ropes, and minutes later the mussels arrive split on a platter. The plump orange morsels are served raw, ready to be spritzed with wedges of lemon and a lick of chilli as we gaze out over the bay. They’re briny, tender and faintly sweet. “This wasn’t originally part of the tour,” explains Connie Trathen, who doubles as the boat’s cook, deckhand and guide. “But a chef [who came onboard] wanted to taste the mussels raw first, and it’s now become one of the key features.”
A humble trawler turned Hamptons-style dreamboat
Inspecting the bounty. (Image: Visit Victoria/Hannyn Shiggins)
It’s a crisp, calm winter’s day, and the sun is pouring down upon Valerie, a restored Huon pine workhorse that was first launched in January 1980. In a previous life she trawled the turbulent Bass Strait. These days she takes jaunts into Port Phillip Bay under the helm of Lance Wiffen, a fourth-generation Bellarine farmer, and the owner of Portarlington Mussel Tours. While Lance has been involved in the fishing industry for 30-plus years, the company’s tour boat only debuted in 2023.
See how these plump and juicy bivalves are sustainably cultivated.
It took more than three years to transform the former shark trawler into a dreamy, Hamptons-esque vessel, with little expense spared. Think muted green suede banquettes, white-washed walls, Breton-striped bench cushions, hardwood tables, bouquets of homegrown dahlias, and woollen blankets sourced from Waverley Mills, Australia’s oldest working textile mill. It’s intimate, too, welcoming 12 guests at most. And yet there’s nothing pretentious about the experience – just warm, down-to-earth Aussie hospitality.
As we cruise out, we crack open a bottle of local bubbles and nibble on the most beautifully curated cheese platter, adorned with seashells and grey saltbush picked from the water’s edge that very morning. Australasian gannets soar overhead, and I’m told it’s not uncommon for guests to spot the odd seal, pod of dolphins, or even the occasional little penguin.
The sustainable secret behind Victoria’s best mussels
Blue mussels sourced just off Portarlington.
Connie and Lance both extol the virtues of mussels. They’re delicious. A lean source of protein and packed with omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin B12, iron, selenium, and zinc. They’re cooked in a flash (Connie steams our fresh harvest with cider and onion jam). And they’re also widely regarded as one of the most sustainable foods in the world.
Mussels served with lemon and chilli.
“Aquaculture is [often] seen as destructive, so a lot of our guests are really surprised about how environmentally friendly and sustainable our industry is,” Lance says. “[Our mussels] would filter 1.4 billion litres of water a day,” he adds, explaining how mussels remove excess nitrogen and phosphorus from the water. “And through biomineralisation, we lock carbon into mussel shells.”
Mussels are a sustainable food.
Despite their glowing list of accolades, these molluscs have long been seen as the oysters’ poorer cousins. “It was a really slow start,” explains Lance, who says that in the early days of his career, “you could not sell mussels in Victoria”.
But word has slowly caught on. Chefs as globally acclaimed as Attica’s Ben Shewry and even René Redzepi of Noma, Denmark, have travelled to these very waters just to try the shellfish at the source, sharing only the highest praise, and using Lance’s mussels in their restaurants.
Sampling the goods onboard. (Image: Visit Victoria/Hannyn Shiggins)
According to Lance there’s one obvious reason why the cool depths of Portarlington outshine other locations for mussel farming. “The water quality is second to none,” he says, noting how other regions are frequently rocked by harvest closures due to poor water quality. “We grow, without a doubt, some of the best shellfish in the world.” And with Lance’s bold claims backed up by some of the industry’s greatest names, perhaps it won’t be much longer until more Aussies uncover the appeal of Portarlington’s mussels.
