26 of the best Mornington Peninsula wineries to raise a glass at

We guarantee you’ll love these wineries on the Mornington Peninsula. The hardest part will be narrowing down which ones to visit.

Just over an hour from Melbourne, the Mornington Peninsula is one of the hottest destinations in the country for a road trip incorporating vineyard visits. With Western Port Bay on one side and Port Phillip Bay on the other, the peninsula has a unique maritime landscape and cool climate that lends itself to excellent grapes, particularly of the chardonnay and pinot noir persuasion.

There are more than 200 vineyards, 60 wineries and at least 50 cellar doors here. Most are concentrated around Red Hill, Red Hill South and Main Ridge, with clusters at Moorooduc and Tuerong in the north, and Balnarring and Merricks towards Western Port Bay. Remember: many smaller cellar doors are only open on weekends and public holidays, so check opening hours before heading off. If you have your heart set on a guided tasting at a specific cellar door, book in advance. Many outfits now have the option on their websites.

Here are some of the must-visit wineries Mornington Peninsula has to offer (in no particular order).

1. Montalto

the Montalto vineyard in Mornington Peninsula — Montalto fosters one of the finest vineyards in the Mornington Peninsula. (Image: Tourism Australia/Visit Victoria)

With its fine-dining restaurant, wood-fired pizza oven and sculpture walk, there are plenty of reasons to spend the afternoon at Montalto . Perhaps the most unique experience (and a decadent way to sample its wines in the warmer months) is by booking its private picnic experience. It starts with a hosted wine tasting in the cellar before you move to one of six secluded spots on the property. Here, at a beautifully set table, enjoy a three-course menu starring local produce and a bottle of wine. Montalto also does a great behind-the-scenes wine tour aimed at those keen to learn more about the process.

Address: 33 Shoreham Road, Red Hill South, Mornington Peninsula

2. Pt. Leo Estate

The Gandel family, who owns Pt. Leo Estate , has invested more than $50 million in the 135-hectare  property near Merricks – and it shows. The sprawling estate includes an incredible sculpture park overlooking Western Port Bay, a beautiful cellar door space and three dining spaces, including fine dining restaurant Laura. Make sure you leave plenty of time to do a self-guided tour of the sculpture walk – it’s breathtaking – then taste the vineyard’s highly acclaimed chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot gris and rosé at the cellar door.

Address: 3649 Frankston–Flinders Road, Merricks, Mornington Peninsula

3. Merricks Store

the cellar door at Merricks General Store, Mornington Peninsula — Stop in for the wine, stay for breakfast or pick up some produce. (Image: Supplied)

Merricks Store is one of the highlights of a Melbourne to Mornington Peninsula road trip. The rustic store has sourced local wines from Elgee Park and Baillieu Vineyard, as well as a selected range of friends’ and neighbours’ wines, to sample and enjoy at the cellar door. Not only that, but there’s also a great provedore and lifestyle store – perfect for picking up some treats to take home – and a bistro doing some of the best breakfasts on the peninsula.

Address: 3460 Frankston– Flinders Road, Merricks, Mornington Peninsula

4. LL Vineyard

hands raising wine glasses at Rare Hare, Willow Creek Vineyard — Sip on pinot noir and chardonnay at Rare Hare.

You’ve probably seen photos or read our review of Jackalope – when the new luxury accommodation opened in 2017, it won a slew of awards and landed a place on Condé Nast Traveller’s Hot List. The jaw-dropping digs overlook LL Vineyard, which produces just pinot noir and chardonnay. You can taste them, as well as other wines made from carefully selected grapes, by Geraldine McFaul, at the cellar door at Rare Hare , the hotel’s casual bistro. If you’re super keen, book a wine exploration, which starts with a tour of the Jackalope art collection, followed by a tasting of back vintages at hotel bar Flaggerdoot, and ends with a wine lunch at Rare Hare.

Address: 166 Balnarring Road, Merricks North, Mornington Peninsula

5. Many Little Bar & Dining

It’s not technically a winery, but Many Little , owned by the folks behind Polperro Winery and Even Keel, is a great spot if you want to relax and try a broad variety of local food and wine in one spot. Located in Red Hill’s cluster of shops, it’s the place to go to rub shoulders with the locals, who have made this hub their adopted home, and sample the owner’s favourite wines, beers and ciders from the region. The food is a big drawcard, with chef Gayan Pieris creating a menu of Sri Lankan-inspired dishes ranging from snacks to a five-course chef’s menu.

Address: 2–5/159 Shoreham Road, Red Hill South, Mornington Peninsula 

6. Ten Minutes by Tractor

Rosé available at the 10 minutes by Tractor cellar door, Mornington Peninsula — Sample delicious rosé Ten Minutes by Tractor. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

The winemakers at Ten Minutes by Tractor have a low-intervention, sustainable approach to their craft, earning their wines rave reviews from critics. The slick, architecturally designed cellar is a relaxed space where guests can taste a drop or two and chat with the staff about what they’re drinking.

Hungry? There are two options: Allis Wine Bar Bistro and the acclaimed upmarket eponymous restaurant. Each takes ingredients from the property’s regenerative farm and the wider region to create seasonal, sustainable dishes. The first offers an innovative à la carte menu, while the latter has two set menus of between eight and 12 courses.

Address: 1333 Mornington–Flinders Road, Main Ridge, Mornington Peninsula 

7. Foxeys Hangout

Set overlooking vineyards and surrounding bushland, Foxeys Hangout is the perfect place to while away a few hours. The vibe is wonderfully relaxed in the cellar door, where you can taste Foxey’s sparkling rosé, chardonnay and more. Chef Bernard McCarthy oversees regularly changing share plates – dishes like spiced meatballs with yoghurt dip and piquillo peppers with black barley might be on the menu – in the bustling restaurant that spills over onto a sunny terrace.

Address: 795 White Hill Road, Red Hill, Mornington Peninsula

8. Paringa Estate

a restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows reflecting the Paringa Estate vineyard — The restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the lush landscape. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

Those who know Mornington Peninsula wines rave about the pinot noir, but Lindsay McCall, the winemaker at Paringa Estate , has managed to produce excellent, complex shiraz. At the cellar door, taste the different series of wine – Peninsula, Estate and Single Vineyard – and talk through each one’s qualities with the staff members.

If you feel like a casual meal, Paringa Garden serves seasonal dishes in the warmer months and cheese and charcuterie when it’s cooler. Make an occasion of it at the light and bright restaurant, with the vineyard just beyond its floor-to-ceiling windows. Here, you can hand the decisions to the chef with a four-course menu or choose from the à la carte offerings.

Address: 44 Paringa Road, Red Hill South, Mornington Peninsula 

9. Main Ridge Estate

This winery is a little more off the beaten track but is well worth discovering. Main Ridge Estate was the peninsula’s first registered commercial winery and the first to have a license for its cellar door. The decision to make wine only from grapes grown onsite results in a limited number of barrels that truly express the season and the site. If you want to go beyond a taste at the cellar door, pair your wine with a casual lunch, taking in views of the quiet, bush valley from the sundeck. In the cooler months, you can sit by the fire in the working winery.

Address: 80 William Road, Red Hill, Mornington Peninsula

10. Dromana Estate

outdoor dining at Dromana Estate, Mornington Peninsula — Snag a seat in the garden for arvo wine tastings.

For the past decade, winemaker Peter Bauer has been applying his skills to the peninsula’s noted varietals, chardonnay and pinot noir, as well as many other cool-climate wines. Dromana Estate has three labels – Dromana Estate, Tuerong Park and Mornington Estate – each of which is estate-grown and made. The cellar door is set in a heritage-listed homestead with tastings led by experienced hosts. There’s also a restaurant serving Italian-inspired dishes and a kids’ menu.

Address: 555 Old Moorooduc Road, Tuerong, Mornington Peninsula

11. Polperro

Polperro is a premium, single vineyard label specialising in pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot gris. With luxury accommodation, an intimate cellar door and a cracking restaurant, this winery is a great place to relax and unwind. Surrounded by sweeping lawns, the restaurant has a fabulous atmosphere – enjoy a long lunch in summer on the sun-drenched deck or cosy up near the fire when the weather cools.

Address: 150 Red Hill Road, Red Hill, Mornington Peninsula

12. Crittenden

lakeside villas at Crittenden Estate, Mornington Peninsula — The winery’s luxury lakeside villas are the perfect place to base yourself. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

Garry Crittenden is a legend in the industry – literally. He was given the title by the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival back in 2012. He planted two hectares of grapes here in 1982 and has gone on to create something of an empire, with son Rollo now running the show. Crittenden ‘s wine centre is one of the largest on the Mornington Peninsula and has two tasting options: a bespoke tasting with a focus on estate wines and Italian and Spanish varieties, with the opportunity to add a supplementary single vineyard tasting. Splash out on a bottle from the Cri De Couer premium range to lie down for a special occasion, then buy a few bottles of Los Hermanos Tempranillo or Peninsula Pinot Noir to drink now. The property also has three fully self-contained luxury lakeside villas if you want to stay longer.

Address: 25 Harrisons Road, Dromana, Mornington Peninsula

13. Rahona Valley

wine tasting in the cellar door filled with barrels at Rahona Valley, Mornington Peninsula — Barrel-aged wines are available to sip and savour. (Image: ©CMcConville/DromanaHabitat)

Toby Pieters and Dianne Gardiner started with a little more than a hectare of vines, but now source grapes from five premium vineyards across the peninsula. Rahona Valley specialises in premium sparkling wines made using methode traditionnelle techniques, although there’s also a selection of cool-climate table wines. In 2020, Toby and Dianne opened the Australian Cuvee Centre in Dromana, where you can taste their wines as well as those from other producers. Make a booking to sip on a sparkling wine flight or do a matched tasting with either cheese or chocolate.

Address: 3/48 Collins Road, Dromana, Mornington Peninsula

14. Avani Wines

the vineyard at Avani Wines — The Red Hill South vineyard is where the Syrah grapes are grown. (Image: Parker Blain)

Family-owned Avani Wines has vineyards spread across five small sites on the Mornington Peninsula and nearby Gippsland, with winemaker Sashi Singh focusing on syrah, pinot noir and chardonnay. The small cellar door, open each weekend, overlooks the Red Hill South vineyard (where the syrah grapes are grown). In November 2024, Avani Wines opened its Cellar Kitchen, where siblings Retu Kaskana and Rohit Singh have worked with chef Deepak Mishra on a wine-friendly Indian menu featuring some of their dad Devendra’s favourite dishes from his hometown of Lucknow.

Address: 98 Stanleys Road, Red Hill South, Mornington Peninsula

15. Mantons Creek Estate

an alfresco dining setup at Mantons Creek Estate — Dine al fresco and take in the beauty of the lush landscape. (Image: Mantons Creek Estate)

The pretty cellar door, with its green ceramic tiles and gold chandeliers, offers seated tastings of the vineyard’s eight estate-grown varieties. Originally an orchard and herb farm, Mantons Creek Estate was planted with vines in 1994, and even today, they are hand-pruned and harvested. Springtime is gorgeous here, with the white roses planted at the end of the rows of vines blooming. They also surround the terrace at restaurant Quattro, where you can feast on fine Italian classics.

Address: 240 Tucks Road, Shoreham, Mornington Peninsula

16. T’Gallant Vineyard

a scenic view of the T’Gallant Vineyard, Mornington Peninsula — T’Gallant Vineyard is a prime setting for a relaxed afternoon. (Image: Kate Shanasy)

In 1994, an apple orchard was replaced with four hectares of pinot gris vines – unheard of on the Mornington Peninsula at the time – and T’Gallant was born. Following Italian principles, the winemakers now create fresh, food-friendly wines in different varieties, including pinot noir. Taste the wines at the cellar door, then enjoy an Italian-inspired feast of shared plates, pasta and pizza at the restaurant that combines rustic charm and contemporary elegance. You can also choose to sit on the deck overlooking the vineyards.

Address: 1385 Mornington–Flinders Road, Main Ridge, Mornington Peninsula

17. Elan Vineyard

It’s all about relaxing at this small family-run winery. Sit under the rotunda at Elan Vineyard and taste the estate-grown, small-batch shiraz, gamay, chardonnay, cabernet merlot, blanc de blanc and pinot noir. Feel free to bring the kids who can enjoy themselves in the playground. On the weekend, there may be simple food coming off the barbecue, although you should also feel free to use the picnic and barbecue facilities.

Address: 17 Turners Road, Balnarring, Mornington Peninsula

18. Mont Rouge Estate

the dining space at Mont Rouge Estate, Mornington Peninsula — Grab a snack or light lunch at Mont Rouge Estate. (Image: Supplied)

The cellar door and – wait for it – chocolaterie at Mont Rouge Estate look as though they’ve dropped straight out of a fairytale. The turreted homestead, surrounded by vines, is where you can taste the single-vineyard chardonnay, pinot gris, pinot noir and shiraz. During the week, grab a snack or light lunch from the garden menu; on the weekend, it’s shared plates served on a three-tiered platter. Even if you don’t stop to eat, you’ll want to grab a treat for the road. Onsite Cocoa Rouge Chocolaterie showcases local produce and fine French and Belgian chocolate in handmade artisanal sweets, as well as ice cream made on the premises.

Address: 232 Red Hill Road, Red Hill, Mornington Peninsula

19. Phaedrus Estate

the wine at Phaedrus Estate, Mornington Peninsula — Their chardonnay has lime and pineapple aromas. (Image: Supplied)

The lawn between the cellar door and the vines is a popular spot on sunny weekends. People find a table beneath the trees at Phaedrus Estate or spread picnic blankets to catch a few rays. When you arrive, start with a tasting of the different varietals that have been grown here for more than a quarter of a century – fiano and fumé blanc are two of the more unusual, but there’s also pinot noir and chardonnay – then order a bottle and cheese platter to enjoy while taking in beautiful views.

Address: 220 Mornington–Tyabb Road, Moorooduc, Mornington Peninsula

20. Quealy

two men walking along the vineyard at Quealy, Mornington Peninsula — The organic vineyard grows the peninsula’s best single-vineyard pinot noirs. (Image: Abi Varni)

Kathleen Quealy and Kevin McCarthy were responsible for, almost exclusively, igniting Australians’ love for pinot gris/grigio back in the 1990s. Now, Quealy winemaker Tom McCarthy has taken the organic vineyard and focuses much of his attention on growing the peninsula’s best single-vineyard pinot noirs (if you can, grab a bottle of Seventeen Rows Pinot Noir produced from wide-spaced, zero-irrigation vines planted in 1982). Lovers of Italian varietals will also find friulano, malvasia and ribolla gialla (2021 was the first vintage for this grape in Australia) at the cellar door, where you can book a guided tasting and linger over a cheese board.

Address: 62 Bittern–Dromana Road, Balnarring, Mornington Peninsula

21. Portsea Estate

This appointment-only cellar door comes complete with views of the Point Nepean National Park and the ocean beyond. Owned and operated by the Ross family since 1956, Portsea Estate offers three premium experiences for guests: a tasting of five wines guided by a family member, a tour of the winery and vineyard followed by a seated tasting, and a deeper look at the winery and estate, with tastings taking place at scenic sites across the property. The farm uses regenerative agriculture to look after the land, also producing its own olive oil and honey.

Address: 183 Hotham Road, Portsea, Mornington Peninsula

22. Red Hill Estate

the lush vineyard at Red Hill Estate, Mornington Peninsula — Take in the tranquil vineyard views at Red Hill Estate. (Image: Supplied/CMcConville)

It’s all about Italy at Red Hill Estate . Book a standard or premium wine experience, which is a hosted tasting of six wines, or one that matches wines with handcrafted chocolates or selected bites from the Italian restaurant. These experiences are held in the onsite Italian restaurant, which was transformed in 2024 to resemble a Tuscan farmhouse. All the dishes on the restaurant menu are designed for sharing, just as you would at Nonna’s house.

Address: 1208 Mornington–Flinders Road, Main Ridge, Mornington Peninsula

23. Yal Yal Estate

Expect a boutique experience at Yal Yal Estate . Simon and Liz Gillies added the sleek cellar door as an extension of their house, and now just 20 guests at a time can sip on their estate-grown wines while enjoying a platter of local produce on the deck. The Gillies work with winemaker Rollo Crittenden to ensure their chardonnay, rosé and pinot noir reflect the estate’s terroir, while they buy carefully selected fruit from nearby vineyards to produce pinot gris. Bookings are essential.

Address: 21 Yal Yal Road, Merricks, Mornington Peninsula

24. Lancemore Lindenderry Red Hill

the Lancemore Lindenderry Red Hill accommodation — The luxe hotel is tucked in the heart of Red Hill among stunning gardens. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Better known as a luxury boutique hotel, Lancemore Lindenderry Red Hill also has a five-star James Halliday-rated cellar door. Winemaker Barnaby Flanders creates estate pinot noir and chardonnay from the grapes grown on the property, but also selects fine fruit from other parts of Victoria – pinot noir for rosé and pinot gris from a sister property in the Macedon Ranges, and shiraz from the Grampians – to create a small but perfectly formed portfolio. Much of the cellar door is located outside, but the firepits are lit during winter to keep things cosy.

Address: 142 Arthurs Seat Road, Red Hill, Mornington Peninsula

25. Trofeo Estate

the restaurant at Trofeo Estate, Mornington Peninsula — The restaurant’s menu celebrates the region’s local and seasonal produce. (Image: Visit Victoria)

The fruit grown in the organic vineyards at Trofeo Estate is finished a little differently than most. After researching different methods, owner Jim Manolios and winemaker Richard Darby decided to use modern terracotta amphorae to ferment and mature their wines. Today, Trofeo is the largest producer of amphora wine in the southern hemisphere. If you want to find out more, head to the cellar door for a tasting and to quiz the team about the estate’s history (it was once a passionfruit cannery) and methods. There are cheese plates available throughout the week, and from Wednesday to Sunday, you can dine in the restaurant from the excellent menu of farmhouse dishes made using local produce.

Address: 85 Harrisons Road, Dromana, Mornington Peninsula

26. Hinkinbotham of Dromana

Hinkinbotham of Dromana vineyard at sunset — Relax over a glass or two at sunset. (Image: Supplied)

Not only can you taste some cracking Mornington Peninsula wines at Hinkinbotham of Dromana , but there’s also a microbrewery creating award-winning pilsener, pale ale, brown and Irish stout. Perfect if you’ve tasted enough wine for one weekend. The cellar door is open on weekends, and there’s live music if you want to relax over a glass or two. The vineyard’s Mintaro Restaurant is open Wednesday to Sunday. Here, the chefs utilise produce from the property’s herb and vegetable garden, as well as that from surrounding farms, to create a crowd-pleasing menu of classic dishes.

Address: 194 Nepean Highway, Dromana, Mornington Peninsula

Need somewhere to stay? Check out our guide to the best Mornington Peninsula accommodation.

Originally written by Simone Mitchell with updates by Carrie Hutchinson

Abandoned mills and forgotten paper plants are finding second lives – and helping redefine a city long underestimated.

Just 15 years ago, Federal Mills was a very different place. Once among the most significant industrial sites in Victoria, the historic woollen mill was one of a dozen that operated in Geelong at the industry’s peak in the mid-20th century, helping the city earn its title as ‘wool centre of the world’. But by the 1960s global competition and the rise of synthetic fabrics led to the slow decline of the industry, and Federal Mills finally shuttered its doors in 2001. Within a few years, the abandoned North Geelong grounds had become makeshift pastoral land, with cows and goats grazing among the overgrown grass between the empty red-brick warehouses. It was a forgotten pocket of the city, all but two klicks from the bustle of the CBD.

Geelong cellar door wine bar — Geelong has shed its industrial identity to become an innovative urban hub with reimagined heritage spaces. (Image: Ash Hughes)

Federal Mills: from forgotten factory to creative precinct

Today, the century-old complex stands reborn. The distinctive sawtooth-roof buildings have been sensitively restored. An old silo is splashed with a bright floral mural, landscapers have transformed the grounds, and the precinct is once again alive with activity. More than 1000 people work across 50-plus businesses here. It’s so busy, in fact, that on a sunny Thursday morning in the thick of winter, it’s hard to find a car park. The high ceilings, open-plan design, and large multi-paned windows – revolutionary features for factories of their time – have again become a drawcard.

Paddock Bakery andPatisserie — Paddock Bakery and Patisserie is housed within the historic wool factory. (Image: Gallant Lee)

At Paddock , one of the precinct’s newer tenants, weaving looms and dye vats have been replaced by a wood-fired brick oven and heavy-duty mixers. Open since April 2024, the bakery looks right at home here; the building’s industrial shell is softened by ivy climbing its steel frames, and sunlight streams through the tall windows. Outside, among the white cedar trees, families at picnic benches linger over dippy eggs and bagels, while white-collar workers pass in and out, single-origin coffee and crème brûlée doughnuts in hand.

Geelong: Australia’s only UNESCO City of Design

Paddock Bakery can be found at Federal Mills. (Image: Gallant Lee)

“A lot of people are now seeing the merit of investing in Geelong,” says Paul Traynor, the head of Hamilton Hospitality Group, which redeveloped Federal Mills. A city once shunned as Sleepy Hollow, and spurned for its industrial, working-class roots and ‘rust belt’ image, Geelong has long since reclaimed its ‘Pivot City’ title, having reinvented itself as an affordable, lifestyle-driven satellite city, and a post-COVID migration hotspot.

And the numbers stand testament to the change. In March 2025, and for the first time in its history, Greater Geelong became Australia’s most popular regional town for internal migration, overtaking Queensland’s Sunshine Coast. Current forecasts suggest Geelong will continue to outpace many other Australian cities and towns, with jobs growing at double the rate of the population.

Tourism is booming, too. The 2023-24 financial year was Geelong and The Bellarine region’s busiest on record, with 6.4 million visitors making it one of the fastest-growing destinations in the country. It’s not hard to see why: beyond the city’s prime positioning at the doorstep of the Great Ocean Road, Geelong’s tenacity and cultural ambition stands out.

As Australia’s only UNESCO City of Design, Geelong is swiftly shaking off its industrial past to become a model for urban renewal, innovation, sustainability and creative communities. The signs are everywhere, from the revitalisation of the city’s waterfront, and the landmark design of the Geelong Library and Heritage Centre and Geelong Arts Centre, to the growing network of local designers, architects and artists, and the burgeoning roster of festivals and events. That’s not even mentioning the adaptive reuse of storied old industrial buildings – from Federal Mills, to Little Creatures’ brewery ‘village’ housed within a 1920s textile mill – or the city’s flourishing food and wine scene.

The rise of a food and wine destination

Restaurant 1915 is housed within a restored former boiler house. (Image: Harry Pope/Two Palms)

Traynor credits now-closed local restaurant Igni, which opened in 2016, as the turning point for Geelong’s hospo industry. “[Aaron Turner, Igni’s chef-patron] was probably the first guy, with all due respect, to raise the bar food-wise for Geelong,” he says. “People now treat it really seriously, and there’s clearly a market for it.” While Igni is gone, Turner now helms a string of other notable Geelong venues, including The Hot Chicken Project and Tacos y Liquor, all within the buzzy, street art-speckled laneways of the CBD’s Little Malop Street Precinct. Many others have also popped up in Igni’s wake, including Federal Mills’ own restaurant, 1915 . Housed within the cavernous boiler house, 1915’s interior is dramatic: soaring, vaulted ceilings with timber beams, exposed brick, a huge arched window. The share plates echo the space’s bold character, playing with contrast and texture, with dishes such as a compressed watermelon tataki, the sweet, juicy squares tempered by salty strands of fried leeks, and charred, smoky snow peas dusted with saganaki on a nutty bed of romesco.

The Woolstore , one of The Hamilton Group’s most recent hospo projects, opened in February. It occupies a century-old riverside warehouse and exudes a more sultry, fine dining ambience. Much like Federal Mills, the blueprint was to preserve the original brickwork, tallowwood flooring and nods to the building’s former life. That same careful consideration extends to the well-versed, affable waitstaff as well as the kitchen. Head chef Eli Grubb is turning out an eclectic mix of ambitious and indulgent mod Oz dishes that deliver: strikingly tender skewers of chicken tsukune, infused with hints of smoke from the parrilla grill, and glazed with a moreish, sweet gochujang ‘jam’; nduja arancini fragrant with hints of aniseed and the earthy lick of sunny saffron aioli; and golden squares of potato pavé, adorned with tiny turrets of crème fraîche, crisp-fried saltbush leaves, and Avruga caviar, to name but a few stand-out dishes.

Woolstore menu — Woolstore’s menu is designed for sharing.

Breathing new life into historic spaces

On the city’s fringe, hidden down a winding side road with little fanfare, lies a long-dormant site that’s being gently revived. Built from locally quarried bluestone and brick, and dating back to the 1870s, the complex of original tin-roofed mill buildings is lush with greenery and backs onto the Barwon River and Buckley Falls; the audible rush of water provides a soothing soundtrack. Fyansford Paper Mill is one of few complexes of its time to survive intact. It feels steeped in history and spellbindingly rustic.

“We were looking for an old industrial place that had some charm and romance to it,” explains Sam Vogel, the owner, director and winemaker at Provenance Wines which moved here in 2018. When he first viewed the building with his former co-owner, it was in such a state of disrepair that the tradie tenant occupying the space had built a shed within it to escape the leaking roof and freezing winter temperatures. “To say it was run down would be an understatement,” he notes. “There was ivy growing through the place; the windows were all smashed. It was a classic Grand Designs project.”

Provenance Wines moved to Fyansford Paper Mill in 2018. (Image: Cameron Murray Photography)

The team has since invested more than a million dollars into their new home. Where paper processing machinery once sat, wine barrels are now stacked. Vaulted cathedral ceilings are strung with festoon lights, and hidden in plain sight lies a shadowy mural by local street artist de rigueur Rone – one of only three permanent works by the artist.

While the award-winning, cool-climate pinot noir, riesling and chardonnay naturally remain a key draw at Provenance, the winery’s restaurant is a destination in itself. Impressed already by whipsmart service, I devour one of the most cleverly curated and faultlessly executed degustations I’ve had in some time. It’s all prepared in a kitchen that is proudly zero-waste, and committed to providing seasonal, ethical and locally sourced meat and produce under head chef Nate McIver. Think free-range venison served rare with a syrupy red wine jus and a half-moon of neon-orange kosho, shokupan with a deeply savoury duck fat jus (a modern Japanese take on bread and drippings), and a golden potato cake adorned with a colourful confetti of dehydrated nasturtiums and tomato powder, and planted atop a sea urchin emulsion.

handcrafted pieces — Bell’s handcrafted functional pieces on display.

The complex is home to a coterie of independent businesses, including a gallery, a jeweller, and its latest tenant, ceramicist Elizabeth Bell, drawn here by the building’s “soul”. “There’s so much potential for these buildings to have new life breathed into them,” says Bell, whose studio is housed within the old pump room. “Even people in Geelong don’t know we’re here,” she says. “It’s definitely a destination, but I like that. It has a really calming atmosphere.”

A Melbourne transplant, Bell now feels at home in Geelong, which offers something Melbourne didn’t. “If this business was in Melbourne I don’t think it would’ve been as successful,” she notes. “It’s very collaborative in Geelong, and I don’t think you get that as much in Melbourne; you’re a bit more in it for yourself. Here it’s about community over competition.”