9 amazing journeys to take in outback Australia

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Dreaming of exploring Australia’s outback but unsure where to start?

The outback is defined by its majesty and magnificence. Just as there is great diversity in its terrain, there are myriad ways to explore it. Be it a road trip, cruise or hike, here are nine amazing ways to experience the outback.

1. Flinders Ranges road trip, SA

Experience the ancient essence of a landscape that’s more than a million years old. Beauty reveals itself at every turn on the Flinders Ranges self-drive loop, as you weave through relics of SA’s pastoral past between the charming townships of Saltia and Hawker. Continue up Flinders Ranges Way, where the road skirts the iconic Ikara/Wilpena Pound. The killer views of this mountainous amphitheatre truly bring enchantment to this outback drive.

a 4WD traversing the Flinders Ranges Way
Push on until you arrive at Wilpena Pound Resort within SA’s Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park. (Image: Tourism Australia)

2. Walking the Jatbula Trail, NT

Lace up your hiking boots and connect to Country on one of Australia’s most spectacular walking trails. You’ll start this multi-day epic adventure at Nitmiluk Gorge before traversing through Jawoyn Land and skirting past waterfalls steeped in cultural significance.

an aerial shot of the Nitmiluk Gorge
Nitmiluk is the Jawoyn name for Katherine Gorge and it means ‘cicada place. (Image: Tourism NT/Natalie Sum)

Here, the Jawoyn people have been the Traditional Owners for more than 40,000 years. Traces of their storied history is evident in the fascinating rock art that’s peppered along the trail.

a group of hikers traversing NT's Jatbula Trail
Lace-up your hiking boots for the NT’s Jatbula Trail. (Image: Tourism NT/Peter Eve)

3. A camel ride in Uluru, NT

Sunrise and sunset are when you’ll catch Uluru at its most magnificent, so saddle up and coast along on a camel tour to watch the magic surrounds of Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park unfold. You’ll feel truly immersed in the desert landscape atop your friendly steed, as you convoy through the dunes headed by a knowledgeable cameleer.

You’ll arrive in time to watch dusk or dawn break over Uluru – an incredible light show that you won’t want to miss. Uluru Camel Tours is one of the country’s largest camel farms, complete with its own saddlery, which makes saddles and harnesses from scratch.

a man riding a camel before sunset in Uluru
Experience the outback with Uluru Camel Tours. (Image: Tourism NT/Jess Caldwell & Luke
Riddle)

4. Motorcycle from Cairns to Darwin

Sitting astride a motorbike and accelerating down a dusty desert highway is the stuff of folk songs and ballads. Cape York Motorcycle Adventures will show you exactly why, with an epic 2500-kilometre guided journey spanning from Cairns to Darwin via The Great Savannah Way.

Watch the verdant landscapes redden on an unforgettable ride into the outback that stops at some of the country’s most beloved gems, including Nitmiluk Gorge and quaint, historic Cooktown.

5. Mountain bike in Mungo National Park, NSW

Get amongst it on a mountain bike at Mungo National Park. The 70-kilometre Mungo Track circuit connects some of the park’s best features – from breathtaking lookouts to fascinating heritage sites. You’ll cycle over gentle hills and through easy plateaus flanked by native flora before stopping for the night at the peaceful Belah campground.

Weather permitting, a star-spangled sky will be your evening’s entertainment. For those seeking something shorter, the Lakebed Loop is a cruisey substitute that can easily be completed in a day.

a grassy landscape at Mungo National Park
Navigate the rich aboriginal history at the world heritage Mungo National Park. (Image: Destination NSW)

6. Air Safari, Birdsville to Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre

Take to the skies for a bird’s-eye view of the Simpson Desert and survey mesmerising waves of windswept sands en route to Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre. The shimmering oasis is the largest salt lake in Australia, glistening with salt crystals and stretching as far as the eye can see.

a scenic flight over Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre
Kati Thanda-Lake Eyre National Park in SA is transformed into an oasis after a downpour. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission)

Scenic flights are operated by Australian Air Safaris , with the middle leg of its four-day. Taste of the Outback tour stopping off at the quintessential outback town of Birdsville before taking in a panorama of Kati Thanda- Lake Eyre. If you’re a lover of wild, lonely places, you’ll be partial to the town’s country charms.

the exterior of Birdsville Hotel, Qld.
Make a pit stop at the iconic Birdsville Hotel, Qld. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland)

7. Cruise the Kimberley Coast, WA

Experience the pristine wilderness of the Kimberley from the water. You’ll glide down topaz inlets and pass through an otherworldly labyrinth of gorges, cliffs and canyons on a Kimberley cruise. There’s a cruise to suit every travel style, whether you’re an adventure enthusiast or prefer to be cosseted in total luxury.

Discovery One Cruises cater to small groups, with a maximum of 22 passengers and six crew. Relax onboard as you trace the rugged coast of the Kimberley and soak up the romance of Western Australia’s pièce de résistance.

an aerial shot of the pristine Kimberley coast
Explore the Kimberley with Discovery One Cruises. (Image: Discovery One)

8. Ride the Indian Pacific train

There are few rail journeys that traverse an entire continent. That’s why the Indian Pacific route between Sydney and Perth tops the bucket lists of rail enthusiasts around the world. You’ll watch the vast desert plains whizz by onboard the Indian Pacific, which stops at some of the country’s most iconic outback townships.

A highlight includes Broken Hill, the historic mining town that’s been transformed into an epicentre for regional arts and crafts. Peruse the galleries and the Living Desert Sculpture site, set against a breathtaking backdrop of the rugged NSW outback.

the desert sculptures in Broken Hill, NSW
Marvel at the desert sculptures in Broken Hill, NSW. (Image: Destination NSW)

9. 4WD the Kingsford Smith Mail Run, WA

Get off the beaten track on this historic mail route, where you’ll follow the wheel ruts of transport pioneer Charles Kingsford Smith. Take a step back in time as you ramble through pastoral plains that give way to dusty outback roads.

The highlight of this journey is the section that passes through the remote Mt Augustus National Park, which is ripe with an abundance of rock formations and Indigenous rock art to discover.

a 4WD navigating the rugged landscape in Mt Augustus National Park, WA
Embark on a 4WD adventure in Mt Augustus National Park, WA. (Image: Western Australia)
Elizabeth Whitehead
Elizabeth Whitehead is a writer obsessed with all things culture; doesn't matter if it's pop culture or cultures of the world. She graduated with a degree in History from the University of Sydney (after dropping out from Maths). Her bylines span AFAR, Lonely Planet, ELLE, Harper's BAZAAR and Refinery 29. Her work for Australian Traveller was shortlisted for single article of the year at the Mumbrella Publishing Awards 2024. She is very lucky in thrifting, very unlucky in UNO.
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This scenic Victorian region is the perfect antidote to city life

Video credit: Visit Victoria/Tourism Australia

The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd . In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.

Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.

‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.

Exchanging city chaos for country calm

kangaroos near Halls Gap, Grampians National Park
The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.

I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.

The trails and treasures of the Grampians

sunrise at Grampians National Park /Gariwerd
Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)

Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.

Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles . I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.

walking through a cave, Hollow Mountain
Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)

There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail , Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.

Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.

“There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.

wildflowers in Grampians National Park
Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.

Grampians National Park at sunset
Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)

The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.

What else is on offer in The Grampians?

a boat travelling along the Wimmera River inDimboola
Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)

You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.

And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region ? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).

dining at Pomonal Estate
Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.

The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.

Salingers of Great Western
Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)

There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.

The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.

Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.

And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.

Kookaburras on a tree
Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)

You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity .

Playing there

abseiling down Hollow Mountain
Hollow Mountain is a popular abseiling site.

Go abseiling under the stars or join a guided hike with Absolute Outdoors . Visit Wama , Australia’s first environmental art centre. Check out Dimboola’s eccentric Imaginarium .

Eating there

steak, naan bread and beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap serves a great steak on naan bread.

Eat world-class cuisine at Pomonal Estate . Dine and stay at much-revered icon Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. The ‘steak on naan’ at Halls Gap brewhouse Paper Scissors Rock , can’t be beat.

Dunkeld Arboretum in Grampians National Park
The serene Dunkeld Arboretum.

For Halls Gap’s best breakfasts head to Livefast Cafe . Sip local wines at Great Western’s historic wineries, Best’s Wines , Seppelt Wines and Norton Estate Wines .

two glasses of beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
Sink a cold one at Paper Scissors Rock.